Acceleration :: Car Sort Of Jumps Back And Fourth While Driving Uphill
Nov 3, 2014
Not sure if this is called "sputtering" or something else. But essentially today all of the sudden my car would sort of jump ahead, as if I when revving it back and fourth on the pedal aggressively. Not sure what could have caused this. Today was an essentially cold day so that may have something to do with it. Also my car overheats so I have to put anti-freeze in it most days. For the last few days I've been just using plain water, could this be the culprit? Why is my car jerking around like this?
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My husband's 1999 (manual transmission) Honda Accord has suddenly gone from a very reliable vehicle to a very big problem. Last week, he experienced problems while driving in fourth gear going up hill at around 45 MPH. The car essentially stopped pulling him up the hill, so he went into third, and got nothing, then second, and got nothing. It took a few tries to re-start the car, which then started idling at lower-than-usual RPM's.
He revved the engine a bit, gave it a test drive, and was able to get to his destination without any more problems. The next day, at about the same place in the road, he experienced something similar, but this time, he revved the engine to increase the RPM's while in fourth gear and was able to make it through without any stalls. This morning, however, his car did not start. The engine will turn over, but it is not engaging. It does not seem to be an electrical problem, since the engine is turning over. No warning or "check engine" lights have come on at this point.
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So I lowered my car sometime last year and ever since then when i make a right turn above 20mph it caused my car to shake pretty violently. i figured it might have been my Left outer cv joint so I changed the axle, solved my problem temporarily but didn't really make it any better. Recently its gotten way worse and now shakes on any sort of acceleration, and at the slightest turn of the wheel towards the right side. If I left off the gas, put it in neutral, engage the clutch, or turn the wheel to the left it goes away. Could this be the right side inner CV joint or something else? Car shakes under acceleration or right turns, is it my axle?
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I was driving my elantra today, and hit a big pothole. Since then, sometimes when I'm driving in fourth gear (I think), I'll feel a thud, and the rpms will go up a little. Then, when I try to accelerate after a stop, the car won't accelerate normally, like it's still stuck in fourth gear. 2005 Elantra ...
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I have a 97 Ford Explorer. I bought it in 07 and it was nice until like 2 years ago when it started to give me doubts. It never died on me,yet, but everyday when I first start it for the day, if I put it in gear right away, it will stay idle for a while and then kick into gear and just jump. I would drive but it keeps kicking off and on until it is warmed up, I guess because it goes away. Oh and also the OD light would come on also. I just need my truck.
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I have a 2012 VW GTI w/ a manual trans. It's a year old and has 15k miles. I bought it new from a VW dealer. Under hard acceleration, the RPMs jump about 500 RPMs for only a second or two and then drop down to where they were previously. During that time, it feels like the transmission slips out of gear and that I have no power. I've noticed this is gears 2-6.
Also, whenever I stop the car and put it into first gear, there's a loud thump that I can both hear and feel coming through the steering wheel and shift knob. It's been doing this since I bought the car. I brought it to VW and they said it's probably just because the gears are still spinning when I put it into first. But it still happens if I wait several seconds to put it into first.
Is this a sign of a bad transmission or one on its way out?
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2012 Accent Hatchback. ~57k miles. (not yet done the 60k mile service)
So at about 1.4-1.7K rpm I hear a slight squeal and the engine's rpm suddenly jumps down for a second, and you can feel the car shake, then comes back up.
I was able to see it while idling, where the engine simply shook a little, like it's stuttering/sputtering and about to stall, but then immediately recovers and continues to idle normally until it happens again (not very often when in idle, usually more often when getting out of idle and slightly depressing the accelerator)
If I press the accelerator more or harder then I don't get any of it. I'm coming up the 60k mile service, and the schedule recommends inspecting and replacing the belt.
I am wondering if the belt slips on the alternator would you be getting similar symptoms or should I be looking elsewhere? I don't think this matters, but I'll mention it anyways, I'm about 1K miles overdue on an oil change. But I don't think 1k is that big of a deal.
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My wife drives a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GT. Recently the car started idling very rough with rpm jumps back and forth from 1500 to 2500 rpm. The check engine light came on and threw a code for the IAC. I also notice a clicking sound coming from the engine and I can see sparks arching at the coil/plug wire. The arching is happening at the coil with the numbers 1 & 4.
The car is difficult to drive. It shakes and surges and isn't pleasant to drive at all. These issues started happening very recently. The car ran great up until now. We've stopped driving it for the time being until we solve the problem.
We had the car serviced a few years ago and they changed the IAC and mentioned something about a gray wire that we should watch out for.
I'm not really sure what the issue is. I don't know if it is the spark plugs, wires, or coil. Or it could be the IAC or something else. I'm comfortable working on the car myself, but I would rather not try fixing many things if it is just one thing actually wrong.
So far, the only thing I've tried is to spray some carb cleaner into the throttle body towards the IAC in hopes that it would clean it and solve my problems.
Where the IAC is located. I want to try remove and clean it, but I'm unsure of exactly where it it. I know it is somewhere on the throttle body or intake manifold, but I'm not sure exactly what I'm looking for.
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Just picked up my 2012 Model Five w/ ATP. Love it (more details to come), but it seems to require too much touch screen action that could better be accomplished through voice recognition. The nav screen always seems to jump back to map display after I've finished an audio transaction. Any way to just keep the audio screen in place until I select the map display? I don't like having to go back to audio to change stations. Also, the nav voice instructions are sometimes only useful for part of the trip. Is there any way to squelch the voice while driving without going into setup and using the touch screen? Answers are probably in the manual but I haven't found them so far.
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2015 TSI Transmission Problem... Clicking sound, over the past few weeks clicking has got worse, rough idle, very abrupt gear changes when gearing down, gear gets "stuck" around 2200 revs and jumps back and forth. what do you think the problem is. and no its not dsg. has 5000 miles.
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I have a 96 ranger with the l4. Right before I bought my newish truck last December, it's started miss firing and running really bad. I replaced the spark plug wires, most of the spark plugs, and both coil packs. Didn't work at all. Then I bought my new truck and parked. Fast forward to now. Fired it up, ran REALLY bad. We changed the wiring order from the 96 order to the 99 order.
But the truck idles from 500rpm (barely running) and randomly jumps up to 2-3000rpm and then back down. Driving it has NO power, rev it and it stays at 2-3000 for quite awhile. Sometimes it randomly dies. REALLY need to get it running quick and cheap. Getting ready to sell my daily driver to find something else and I need something to drive while I hunt for another truck.
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In a matter of weeks, my truck destroyed two sets of flywheels and starters. When the ignition key engages, the engine "jumps back?. Apparently, this causes the starter and flywheel teeth to grind. My mechanic cannot determine the cause of the "jump back". He thought that it might be the timing. His examination and testing, however, proved the engine properly timed.
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After I have used my Phaeton for a few miles it seems like the transmission is jumping - like when the older cars were low on transmission fluid. I thought the Phaeton had a closed transmission system and fluid can not be added. I have 124,000 miles on the car.
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04 Touareg V6 ... Slow acceleration.. running rough.. hesitation during acceleration especially when going up hill. Engine light is on. P0300 is the computer code coming up.
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I have a mk7 with 12k miles on it (edit: Manual). I noticed this noise periodically and it is hard to reproduce. I haven't been to the dealer yet because we all know how that intermittent noise thing goes with them.
Symptoms: Accelerating (usually 2nd or 3rd) low rpms. If I am going slightly up hill it will make a sound like a metal ball bearing inside of an Altoids can. "Tack Tack Tack.' It doesn't happen all the time and sometimes the volume varies. I'd say it has happened to me 10 times in the last 2 months. It appears to be boost related as it is building.
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I have a 2004 Chev Cavalier with a 2.2. Ecotec OHC. Lately the car has started to stagger on acceleration. Particularly when going up hill. The weird thing is, it only does it after it's been running for 10 or 15 minutes. Up until that time it runs smoothly. But when it happens it feels like the engine bucks. Or hiccups. If I stomp on the gas the car will either stall or kick in and overcome this. When I'm driving down the road at a steady speed, or when I'm sitting still the engine will buck in the same fashion. Not steadily--intermittently. Once or twice every fifteen seconds. But it's getting progressively worse.
Now if I launch out of an intersection the car might even stall. When this happens I just turn the key and she fires right up again as if nothing happened. No "Check Engine Light" or trouble codes showing up in my Scangauge. I replaced the fuel filter just as a preliminary measure but that didn't solve the problem. I had the fuel pump replaced a few months ago as well but that ws before this problem occurred. No other parts or pieces replaced. Fuel pressure regulator? Spark plugs? Injectors?
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For the last couple of weeks I've been hearing a weird noise towards the rear end of my car when I accelerate, seems like it's worse when I'm going uphill, sounds like a box of shoes moving freely in the trunk of the car. At first I thought it was something in my the trunk but I have nothing loose, the spare wheel and all attachment are pretty well secure. The only thing that I can think of is that the dealership installed the F Sport exhaust to it, but not sure if that should be making that type of sound. Sound is pretty low but it still manages to upset me, specially since my car has less than 3k miles on it.
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Having issue with a 2003 jetta 1.8t. I bought it used and it seemed to run great. Sometimes going up hills i get white smoke for like a minute (probably in too low of a gear when it happened).
Happens on the highway sometimes too if i punch it to pass somebody (like already going 60, punch it to 80). I've read other posts here to get some ideas (turbo going bad, etc.) It seems to coincide with a lack of power or stumbling in the gear I'm in...
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My car struggles to reach 70mph, to the point where uphill on a motorway i come to like 30mph. also it has terrible acceleration where i struggle to get out onto roundabouts and sometimes when I start the car it doesn't start first time and the second time it takes like 5-8 seconds to turn over. it only has 65000 and its a 3 cylinder 1.0L vauxhall corsa. I am going to replace the spark plugs tomorrow as I was thinking that's what it would be but I am not sure.
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What is a "normal" number people see on their load factor? Mine was around 25-30 a few weeks ago but I noticed it is increasing to around 30-40 once I'm in gear, in park it's fine. My acceleration is also getting a bit sluggish too especially going up hills and my throttle isn't responding all the way, my turbo boost is normal though and I don't think there is any VGT stiction. I'm thinking either a fuel filter or a MAF sensor to start with. Fuel filters have been in exactly 10 months. Can a dirty fuel filter, air filter, or MAF sensor affect engine load at idle and how fast it accelerates? I feel like I'm pulling a trailer and with it being more sluggish, my transmission is shifting harder as well.
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Going up a hill, my engine started clacking and I lost acceleration power. (yes, I was in overdrive - which I now know I shouldn't have been). I immediately pulled off the road and into a gas station. Upon stopping, my oil pressure gague dropped to zero and my engine temp maxxed out. The temp was fine until I stopped. I let the engine cool off for an hour.
After listening to it for a few seconds, I was told that I had a problem they couldn't fix. We put a compression fix oil additive in it to see if that would work. It did raise the oil pressure when cold and when running with the RPMs up, but after running for a few minutes, the pressure would drop to zero on idle. At that point, they suggested that I shouldn't drive it anymore. I then rented a box truck and an auto trailer and trailed my truck the rest of the way.
I'm now in Fort Collins, Colorado and have a dilemma. I had a local mechanic look at the truck and he also agrees that I have a failed/failing rod bearing. (back of the engine near the firewall)
The question is to repair or abandon the vehicle. I'm not a mechanic and can't do the repair myself. It has 158K miles and has been meticulously maintained. Unless I also damaged something else, the rest of the truck is in good shape. Is rebuilding the engine possible or even worth it?
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