Abs - Honda - Cr-v :: 2006 - Passenger Side Caliper Closing But Not Releasing?
May 31, 2016
I've always done everything brake wise on my vehicles but this is one I have never seen in all my years. I replace all rear pads about 2 months ago and yesterday i heard a horrible sound. Took the passenger side tire off and the pads are completely gone and it's into the metal. Both are worn evenly but both are gone. A quick check of the driver side rear revealed what looked like complete new pads and both of those pads are also worn evenly. My first thought was that the passenger side caliper was closing but not releasing. But I took it off and used the clamp to return the fluid to the reservoir. I fully expected it to be rough to get the piston to go in....unfortunately it went back in easily. For the hell of it I performed the same test on the drivers side and it retracted just as easily. I'm at a loss. I have a passenger caliper and pads ordered but id hate to spend $80 on a caliper if its not needed. Oh...the pins that the caliper screws to are also moving easily on both sides.
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Yesterday (well for a while, but yesterday was bad) I had some brake issues, turns out the passenger side front caliper went bad (corroded, doesn't retract) so I need to get another one. Only place I saw Red caliper for my jazz blue for sale was on ecstuning and that was 189. Seems a little steep so I was wondering if there are any other places who sell the Red OEM calipers. If not I might just go through ecs.
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My driver and my driver side passenger (slightly) door squeaks when I open and close it. I know it has to do with the door checks. The black plastic thing that holds the door open 1/4 or 1/2 way. I don't want to try something that might not fix it like greasing it. I don't want a glob of grease on there and it still squeaks. Is there a way to adjust it?
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Passenger window......When I try to close the window with drivers side switch, the windows hits the top then automatically reverses, and stops halfway. If I close it with the passenger switch, it remains closed.
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So, my right, rear, brake caliper froze in the open position a little while back; I hit the brake hard, it held, heard a clack, then it let go and stayed in the open (uncompressed) position. I lost some braking power but at least have been able to drive. No visible brake fluid leak, other three brakes working fine.
At 125K, I've decided to do a full brake job, and am about to search for some of the parts on the awesome stickied parts reference list up above. I'll hopefully find some parts are available at NAPA, where I'm also ordering the right side cv axle.
So, I'm only finding remanufactured brake calipers at NAPA. Are they decent or should I look for something new elsewhere?
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I have a 2000 f250 4x4 with 4 wheel abs. The front passenger side caliper keeps locking up while I'm driving and won't release and when I hit the brakes it pulls hard to the drivers side. I have put two calipers on the passengers side and put new brake lines on.
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2006 Solara. When opening driver side door it makes a very loud clicking noise at the 1st and also at the 2nd stop. Same thing when closing the door.
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I have a 2002 civic. The key fob only opens or locks the passenger side doors but not the driver side doors. Worse still, the key does not work in the lock so I have to use the fob to open the passenger side and climb in to open my drivers door. Having said that the key won't open the door lock, it will do only occasionally. I might try it 20 times with no luck and on the next attempt it opens it as if there was never a problem in the first place... My priority is to get the fob to operate all of the doors. I have tried the simple things like changing the battery of the fob and resetting the key.
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I drove and opened the windows. I came to a stop and tried to close the windows but passenger window wont go up. the lights radio speedometer and everything work but windows still wont go up. i tried the switch on the passenger door also. no luck.
I accidentally pressed the window lock.
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I've had a wet passenger side rear floor in my Accord for the past year now when I run the A/C. Two mechanics including a Honda dealership have told me the A/C drain is not plugged. One of them ran compressed air through the drain and it seemed to be better for about a week and then started again. How to investigate the matter further. The floor does not smell like coolant. It just feels like and smells like water.
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My wife drives a 2010 Hyundai Elantra with a 5 speed manual trans with about 40K mi on it . We purchased the service maintenance package that covers all scheduled major and regular maintenance. A year ago they replaced the head gasket because they discovered a small oil seep. This was covered by the warranty.
Well a couple of weeks ago I noticed that the heat is fine on the drivers side and blows cool on the passenger side. This is a problem particularly when defrosting the windshield. When she brought it in for the next scheduled service a couple of days ago I asked that she mention this problem to the service people.
Their response was "we need to do a cooling system flush which would not be covered by the service contract" to the tune of a couple a hundred bucks. The coolant is the transparent green it should be due to it being changed one year ago so I have my doubts about it being the heater core.
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I have an 09 Limited with the dual automatic climate control. It finally got cool enough to start running the heater. The passenger side vents are throwing cold air instead of warm like the drivers side. This includes the windshield defroster. I'm thinking there is a diverter "somewhere" that is not working properly.
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My 2006 Prius (Model NHW20) has a strange headlight problem. On the passenger side, the high beam light is out but the regular headlight works.
On the driver side, the high beam is working but the regular headlight is out.
I don't think it's the fuses but I'm not sure. No amount of interchanging the following fuses changes anything about the issue:
1. 10A H-LP HI RH
2. 10A H-LP HI LH
3. 15A H-LP LO RH
4. 15A H-LP LO LH
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2003 Accord EX, about 145K miles. About a year ago, the back passenger side door would not lock. So now I just keep it locked and if I ever need it open, I reach back to unlock it. About 6 months ago, the front passenger side door stopped responding to a lock command. But the funny thing was, when it started to show signs of weakness, I could press lock (on driver side door or remote) about 5 or 6 times and it would eventually make its way down or up. Eventually, it just stopped working altogether. So now I have 2 out of 4 doors that lock and unlock remotely or by the master unlock/lock button on the driver's side. I have found NO other issues with the car that would seem related to this. The AC has stopped blowing cold air but it did this last summer too (and fixed itself) so I think that is unrelated. I am happy, willing, and able to do any minor fixes myself on the car.
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I just got my CRV back together yesterday (its been a very busy few months).. GOOD news the AC is nice a cold now !! The bad news is that apparently one of my cooling fans is bad.. The passenger side fan, with the AC on MAX, sometimes spins very slowly, other times not at all. If I push start it it will work for a while (but spin very slowly). Now I am trying to fix this on the cheap, so my question is can I get away with out replacing the whole fan.. Can I service this motor??
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I get a rub sound when I am only going about 5 miles an hour and usually when turning left. I sounds like it is coming from somewhere on the passenger side and near the back. It makes this sound only once in awhile. Sounds like a body rub kind of sound. I have newer tires and they look fine and my shocks appear to be ok. I don't see anything wedged up under there either. This car only has about 88,000 miles on it and is in nice condition best I can tell. It is a 2007 Honda ex sedan.
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My car spun on ice, did a 360 and hit the barrier rail of the bridge. The rear bumper was all scraped up and got pushed pushed out on the passenger side. I've replaced it but I've been hearing a thumping noise from the passenger side tire (not sure rear of front) and this is only noticeable on expressway with smooth asphalt and only under wet conditions. The alignment was done after the accident but after taking the car to several service locations they did not hear any noise (we were driving in wet conditions.)
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Awhile back I did get my battery replaced and I did reset my windows so they could be used from the driver side panel. As of now, I can roll down all of them from the driver side except for the passenger side rear (window diagonal from driver). The window does roll down from the door itself so the window isn't broken. The light on the driver window switch is lit green, not blinking. However, the light on the window switch on the passenger door is NOT lit and not blinking either. And yes, I did make sure the window lock was not on.
Could the switch, either passenger or driver door, be bad? Should the battery be disconnected and reconnected??
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My friend has a question about his 2001 Honda 2 dr. Accord, V6. After he first starts the car and backs straight or turns, there is a bad sound near the passenger front side, maybe in near the wheel. Once the car has been started, say, and he goes forward and then backs up there is no noise. But the first time out of the parked position, it is very noticeable. He said he has noticed it almost a year. Is the transaxle a problem? Is it dangerous.. only on the first startup and back up and it ends shortly, but sounds bad. It is not with brake application either, so not a brake pad I don't think and he has those checked and replaced, so don't know what to think.
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I just rolled over to 90,000 miles on my 2002 Accord. Its running beautifully, however every so often the car "rumbles" or "shudders" when I'm releasing the clutch after I shift into second gear, or sometimes it'll do it when I'm facing up a hill pulling into first gear letting out the clutch. Its almost as if the clutch rapidly grabs then slips a bunch of times, similar to if it was warped. It doesn't completely slip at all to my knowledge. The car was bought new by my family and has been driven pretty carefully since (although 2 people have learned to drive stick on it, and my dad isn't the most "gentle" driver in the universe). I know that Clutch rebuilding and replacing is a big expensive job and its something I wouldn't even consider doing myself. So, when is it time to really seriously consider dropping down the serious cash to get the clutch rebuilt? To be honest, the shuddering is really annoying (it doesn't happen all the time though) but its something I could live with for a bit.
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92 Honda accord. This car has two radiator fans. The passenger side fan comes on intermittently after the car has been shut off, causing the cars battery to drain. If the battery isn't disconnected then the car has to be jumped every time due to the fan running. Cars temp doesn't get hot, checked coolant, everything seems to be working fine.
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