Abs - Accord :: 2003 - Pumping Sound 4 Times - ABS / TCS And Caution Lights Come On
Oct 9, 2014
2003 Honda Accord Coupe V6 .. My car has been making a weird sound lately. After I start the car and get it up to about 10mph it makes a "pumping" sound 4 times and the ABS, TCS, and caution lights come ON. Sometimes after I stop and start again it makes the noise again and then the three warning lights go OFF. The sound is noticeable but if the radio is on you can barely hear it. It is not louder or more quiet with the windows down.
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I've made a video of the pumping sound in that seems to get "stuck on" repeatedly at occasional times while the car is in operation or at idle. What it is and if it should not be going on like this without stopping? The car is a 2004 Canadian model, assuming it has the coolant thermos.
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I have changed the clutch master cylinder on my '03 Honda Accord (6 cyl.) six times in the past 12 months. Either the o ring seal blows out or the bolts holding the plate down breaks off. I bleed the clutch of bubbles until the oil runs through also. What am I doing wrong?, I'm about to send this car packing.
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Well, just replaced my HV battery, hooked everything up (I think) and tried to start it. ALL the caution lights came on and stayed on. This is the code that showed up on the reader. P0AE0. The battery was refurbished and I changed over my Computer module and the contact posts. Everything is tight, and I compared my pre-takedown pics to the post-repair work and it all looks correct.
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Past couple of days I've had a warning pop up for "Check lights" sometimes even before i have turned them on although I do have arrive depart set to activate. On looking around all seem to be OK apart from maybe 2 leds within the tail lights. It does seem to go out within a couple of mins of actually setting off as well so clearly somethings sorting itself out.... What to check next? they seem to be working fine, I can see them autolevel when I pull up behind a car and the car settles on its suspension etc.
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I got to work this morning and had about 3.5 miles left with the EV. Tried to go home and nothing works. I could not open the door. I thought it was my remote battery so I Changed the battery and still nothing works. I get the Orange caution light on the dash and a clicking sound from the engine area . No lights come on. Nothing.
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For many months now, I've heard what sounds like some kind of pumping noise. This happens after starting the car and may go from brief to a few minutes. Seems to happen after every cold start and often even when warmed up. Some starts are soundless. I only recently discovered that it's coming from under the hood beneath the relay/fuse box. I can't see where it seems to be coming from.
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got in the car this morning, it revved a little high and now sounds like an air pump is constantly going. You don't hear it as much when you drive but when stopped and especially when you open the hood, its like a compressor is going. It seems to be coming from the back end of the air intake tubing...on the passenger side, not near the intake itself.
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I just noticed this happening on my wifes car the other day. It almost sounds like the windshield wipers are on high. Here is a link to the video where you can distinctly hear it. Also is that the inverter whining over there in the background? That's normal right?
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What could be making the strange pumping sound coming from under my hood after I shut off the truck?? It sounds like a small compressor or pump running.
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2003 F150 Super Crew 5.4
When I turn off the ignition, the drivers door lock unlocks or pushes the arm through the door for up to 30-60 seconds over and over again. I would say like 10 times and it is annoying as hell.
Is the only part in the door that controls this the actuator or is there something else that can be doing this?
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I had been having battery issues with my 97 ford f150 4.6 liter for the longest time, thought i had a short under dash, i pulled entire dash out, disconnecting bat first of course, and inspected all wiring harness connections and fixing my issues and putting it all back together. now with new bat and all put back together i am now getting the airbag light flashing 5 times then 2 times (error code 52) i know it has some thing to do with power failure or backup battery, but now with the new battery in i cant seem to get it to reset. How to do this?
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It usually takes three times of trying to start before it actually completely starts,it starts then immediately stalls usually twice and on the third try it starts right up.
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I took my 2003 Honda Accord that has 200,000 mostly highway miles to my machanic because I heard a thumping sound in the wheel (so I thought) He told me it was a broken engine mount (front) and replaced it. When I picked up my car it vibrated all over the place. I was scared to drive it. The steering wheel was bounding around. Anyway I took it back right away and was told that since they replace the front engine mount the others needed to be replaced as well and that was the cause of the vibration. They replaced the other two engine mounts and the car is vibrating even more. So the decided it was the transmission mounts. So...they replaced the transmission mounts and still my car is vibrating all over the place.
Now the mechanic says it's the engine and said that it was at least a 5 hour job to do but could not give me any promises that that was going to fix my car. So, I took it to the honda dealer to have their tech look into it. The tech thought the vibration was caused by a broken air tube, replaced it (at no cost) but the car still vibrating..
Honda checked the replaced engine and transmission mounts, said they were okay but noticed that the original bolt on the front mount was replaced by a oversized bolt and they think that is the problem since the vibration did not occur until the mechanic replaced the front motor mount. Honda suggested I take the car back to the mechanic since it would cost me much money for them to fix it. I had Honda explain the issue to the mechanic about the bolt and they seem to disagree. I'm still waiting to hear from the mechanic as to when to bring my car back so that they can finally fix it. i think the made more of a problem in the first place.
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The factory 'Security System' aka alarm, in my 2000 Honda Accord EX goes off randomly. When this happens the horn sounds and lights flash for several minutes at a time. This can happen several times in one day and then not happen again for days or weeks. The owner's manual says that the security system is activated when the doors are locked and will sound an alarm if a passenger door, trunk lid or hood are opened while the system is activated. The system is deactivated by using either a key or the remote transmitter to unlock the doors. My mechanic tried to disable the hood latch switch, but this caused the alarm to sound continuously. How to fix the problem or disable the security system?
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My car keeps on shaking at times, sometimes it is perfect all day. If it is shaking and I come to a light it stops. I have been to several mechanics and they all say something different.
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On my 95 Honda Accord 4-door (>400K miles), every time the doors are locked, the servos click 25 to 60 times about once a second. Like a loud ticking clock. The doors are locked OK, but the clicks sound like the mechanism is wearing itself out. Is there an easy fix? It may be related to installation a few weeks ago of a new alarm system that included a remote control lock. I haven't had time to have the alarm company look at it.
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Recently I started hearing a rattling/grinding metallic sound coming off the right rear while driving slowly. This sound is not reproduced when braking.At first it started while doing sharp right turns only, now its ever present while driving. I showed it to a mechanic he says rotors needs to be replaced. Is he right? 2003 Honda Accord V6....
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I was out with the F350, drw, automatic, 7.3, 4 x 4, yesterday about 30 miles from home base. The transmission started pumping fluid out the front like I have never seen before. I am not talking a drip, I am talking a stream, a big one..... almost like pouring coffee from a coffee pot. I noticed it when I was backing into unload and was leaving an oil trail, a quite obvious one.
We took off the tc cover as it was coming off that to find a dry tc and flywheel, but fluid running out off the case. This is the second time this trans left me high and dry in 165k miles. The first time was a stripped tc/ input shaft. We repaired the transmission then but I don't think we replaced much besides being sure no debris went though everything, fixed what was broken. That was about 25,000 miles ago.
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My 2004 Honda Accord wouldn't start this morning. Immobilization indicator was blinking. After a bit, it started just fine, as the indicator stopped blinking. My thinking at this time was that it had rained torrentially the previous night, maybe some moisture had got into the circuitry and caused a little 'hiccup.' Then, as I drove, about 5 minutes later, the car started trying to stall. The check engine light came on, then the battery light came on and flashed. The engine ran erratically. Both check engine and battery lights started blinking erratically. At one point the dash beeped at me, like the warning sound it makes when the emergency brake is on while the car is moving. This got worse as I drove. I pulled over to the nearest shop. 2 hours of looking at the car, they said the camshaft sensor and the alternator needed to be replaced. .
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01 7.3. Cranks, won't start. Tank was at 1/4 but is full now. The lift pump runs, I can feel and hear that the motor is spinning when I cycle the key. I removed the fuel filter and cycled the key and get no fuel into the bowl. It looks like the lines are stainless from the pump to the tank so I doubt it is sucking air. I pressurized the tank with a shop vac and I get fuel coming into the filter housing. Am I missing something obvious? I have never seen an electric pump that would run and not pump fuel. I removed the suction line at the pump and don't feel any suction there.
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