Wife started the car, then shut it down to come back in the house and the A/C blower kept running.
With engine running, all HVAC controls work normally, but the fan continues to run after the engine is off and the key is out of the switch.
I'll pull the fuse for now but there must be a relay stuck or something.
I have strange issue with my a/c fan, its running continues even will the a/c switch is off.
I cant stop it. So I have to remove the fuse to stop it. My ac panel is automatic.
My 2005 yukon runs rough between 1300-1700 rpm, seems to run fine at all other rev's, doesn't matter what gear I'm in, (trying to troubleshoot put in low to see what it would do, same problem) if it's in the rough zone and I punch it it smooths out and runs fine, I've tried injector cleaner (Techron), premium gas, but it still does it....
View 2 RepliesHow to remove center panel in order to replace faulty blower switch?
View 1 RepliesI have a problem with my 09 Sonata. Blower motor does not work at all, on any setting. I thinks it's not getting any power. When I turn the blower on, on the dash, little red light does not come on on the switch. I think the switch itself that controls the speed and power to the blower is not getting any power.
I checked fuses that control the blower and they are fine (I looked up fuse location online).
How to remove the blower motor switch on my 99 F150 without breaking anything.
View 1 RepliesMy HVAC blower switch only works when I put it on 5 (the highest setting). What needs to be replaced (besides the whole truck)?
View 4 RepliesMy switch is bad. I took it out and looked at it and cleaned it up and put it back in. The lever slides smoothly without stopping at the desired speed. Contact is made but the switch likes to pop up out of the assembly. I could use zip ties to keep it in, but like I said, it doesn't work properly anyway. I have looked everywhere in the searches and used parts links on the Geo Forum but can't find one.
Any blower switch that I can put in my Geo Metro '97, 1.0L, 3 cyl., base model with std. trans.? I need the switch/cover that is at the top of the picture, It pops in above the lever and by the 4 little clip rectangular holes coming up from the assembly.
Inside the switch there is a small spring and ball bearing about the size of a bb that causes the switch to "click". Spring and ball disappeared long ago. -- From a different thread. Does the spring and ball bearing come with the switch or is that a separate item?
I have an '03 F250 and the second position of the blower switch doesn't work. The first, third, and fourth are all fine.
I bought a Motorcraft YH-1670 blower switch, but can't figure out where it's located?
I looked behind the glove box, but didn't see it there. I did not remove the screws to the cover behind the glove box because I wanted to first confirm where the switch is located.
The heater blower in my 1999 F350 continues to run after the switch is turned off. I checked the relay and it is working properly. Looking for a wiring diagram showing the control circuit for the blower?
Do the heater switch controls power to the relay coil or if the switch grounds the coil to pick up the relay?
On a 2002 yukon .... Had my oil change and the light stays on.....
View 16 Replies'99 Yukon. Starter spins engine fine but engine won't start. Spray a quick shot of starter fluid or drip some gas on the air filter and it starts fine. After sitting idle for a half hour or so the situation returns. Car will run highway speeds (70-80mph) fine and will handle stop and go in town. Local mechanic wants to replace the fuel pump, which was replaced a couple of years (30,000 miles) ago. This seems an expensive first step with no diagnostics done.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2009 Camry SE. Yesterday it would not crank and I wound up having to replace the battery. Now the ac blower motor runs even when the ignition is off and when the ignition is on, I cannot control the speed of the blower. I had to unplug the blower motor to make it stop. What would cause this?? Everything else seems to work fine.
View 4 RepliesA few days ago I noticed that the front tweeters were producing a low volume buzz whenever the HVAC blower is running.
Let me explain it: The HVAC system is in auto, I am listening to a CD track and the track finishes. At the very short period that it takes for the new track to play I can hear that distinctive buzz coming from the front tweeters. If I now turn off the blower and repeat the same sequence I cannot hear the buzz.
I would say that the buzz frequency is not correlated to the blower speed, but it is difficult to assess because of the increased volume of the blower at high speed.
I have checked the pins and the wiring at the amplifier connectors and they are all sound, so I am wondering if the smoothing capacitor that sits at the plenum chamber fuse box might be the culprit.
2003 with about 140k miles, radiator was replaced a couple years back, recently replaced timing belt (#2) and some valve cover gaskets in advance of a road trip.
On the road trip, used no cooling air, occasionally used heat at night with the roof down. At one point, I thought I heard my engine louder than normal, but decided it was actually machinery nearby.
The next morning, after only about 1 hour of leisurely driving through a civil war park for about an hour, I confirmed that in fact it was my vehicle making the noise.
It was fairly frequent, and basically sounds and feels (hand on air filter) like the blower kicking on, as if to cool the car off.
But the air temp was cool, the car temp was solid and cool, so there wasn't a good reason for this to be happening.
Because I had just had the timing belt & such done, I stopped at a dealer. The engine light came on as I pulled in.
They indicated that they saw a MAF sensor failure, and that while it needed to be replaced, it wasn't a problem to finish my road trip. They indicated the check engine light was related and also ok to drive with. They then lost a lot of credibility when they tried to ask me if perhaps the AM radio was the noise I was hearing...
Despite that, I continued on (had to be somewhere and they said it was ok to drive). The engine light actually went off the next time I filled up, so I decided perhaps that was actually a gas cap pressure issue (saw that once before in my ~6 years of driving the car).
Back at my home Toyota shop, they confirmed the MAF replacement need, and have also suggested spark plugs (fair enough).
But re: the air, they don't believe it sounds 'wrong'. I agree with that- it sounds 'right', as in when the blower kicks on, and I vaguely recall that it was something I heard back when my radiator actually rusted out / failed.
My issue is that it seems to be happening MUCH more frequently than normal.
So while I don't recall hearing it at all over the past couple years or only on very rare occasions under load, or when the radiator failed, it seems to be almost routine now, where at a given stop light (even in just a few miles of driving in town at low speeds), I'll hear the extra noise.
I have a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer OZ and the problem currently associated with it is that blower motor is running no matter if the key is in the ignition or not.
View 15 RepliesNow, I just bought a 07 Yukon which seems to be in a great condition. The check engine light just popped up so I went to a mechanic and he said the code is p0455.
He did a smoke test and showed me that smoke is coming out of the rear of the vehicle at the gas tank area and the car needs the vent valve solenoid changed, but it's only sold at dealer.
So u went to dealer and got this part and decided to change it myself which was quite easy and fun.
I went back to clear the light, then a week later the light came back on, so I went back to him thinking maybe I didn't do it right, so he did another smoke test and sure enough we see smoke coming out of the rear again, so I looked under the car and saw it was coming out of the end of the vent valve assembly which I think is a small air filter. Is that normal? Or is the part defective?
I have a 2006 Prius and lately, the fan will stop blowing hard on long drives on hot days when the fan is set to High. This happened on a 3 hour trip on the interstate and again when I was driving some back road for about 2 hours. The first time, I noticed the cabin temp was getting hotter so I went to switch the fan speed higher and noticed it was already on high. It was not set to Auto.
When I got home, I let the car cool down for about 30 minutes and when I turned on the car, the AC was blowing full speed and was getting cold like normal. When the fan speed slowed down on its own on the interstate, it was probably blowing at a speed similar to what the fan would normally blow if set to the middle position or maybe even below that. Why the fan would slow down on its own when set on high.
I also just checked the temperature coming from the vent after running the AC on LO temp for about 10 minutes. It was reading 50 degrees with a digital meat thermometer and 46 degrees with an infrared thermometer. So, when the car is cool, the AC seems to be working fine. Just wondering about the fan speed and the fact that the car gets really warm when it slows down on its own.
I am new to the world of the Cadillac. I bought a nice 1994 Deville for $500 at auction. I replaced the water pump and put two new tires on the front. It is my daily driver I use for work, I put about 96 miles a day on it. The gas mileage is actually really good due to 90% of my drive is on the highway.
The only issue I am currently having is that the Heater/AC blower motor keeps running until I pull the plug under the hood. I started looking up solutions only to find that there really seems to be very little in the way of getting good information.
I have one side saying it's the blower motor itself
another saying it's the BMC
another saying it's the heater/ac programer
and still another saying there is no cure just pull the fuse
When I checked here I found one person with the same problem back in 2011, but there was no resolution.
I have an 04 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L V6 AWD with climate control. All other trucks this year I've only seen with manual HVAC controls. My blower motor is constantly running anytime the key is turned on. It feels like it is blowing 3/4 strong all the time and I can turn it up, what feels like one setting higher. Even if the climate control is turned off it keeps blowing. I can control the temp and AC and defroster, I just cannot control the actual airflow pressure from the vents. On an older car this seems like a resistor issue. Is this a common issue? If so, what can I do to try to rectify this?
View 4 RepliesI have chevorlet caprice 2006 LTZ, whenever I switch off my car after running with AC on (means heat shows 50%) does not start. It simply cranks up but does not start,I try 3-4 times it starts, everything works fine . It starts perfectly in morning or after idle for long time. What stops the start, is it the fuel pump? I did computer scan but nothing detected.
View 6 Replies