Yukon :: AC Blower Keeps Running After Engine Is Off And Key Out Of Switch


Jun 3, 2015

Wife started the car, then shut it down to come back in the house and the A/C blower kept running.

With engine running, all HVAC controls work normally, but the fan continues to run after the engine is off and the key is out of the switch.

I'll pull the fuse for now but there must be a relay stuck or something.

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Any blower switch that I can put in my Geo Metro '97, 1.0L, 3 cyl., base model with std. trans.? I need the switch/cover that is at the top of the picture, It pops in above the lever and by the 4 little clip rectangular holes coming up from the assembly.

Inside the switch there is a small spring and ball bearing about the size of a bb that causes the switch to "click". Spring and ball disappeared long ago. -- From a different thread. Does the spring and ball bearing come with the switch or is that a separate item?

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I bought a Motorcraft YH-1670 blower switch, but can't figure out where it's located?

I looked behind the glove box, but didn't see it there. I did not remove the screws to the cover behind the glove box because I wanted to first confirm where the switch is located.

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Do the heater switch controls power to the relay coil or if the switch grounds the coil to pick up the relay?

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Phaeton :: Low Volume Buzz Whenever HVAC Blower Running

A few days ago I noticed that the front tweeters were producing a low volume buzz whenever the HVAC blower is running.

Let me explain it: The HVAC system is in auto, I am listening to a CD track and the track finishes. At the very short period that it takes for the new track to play I can hear that distinctive buzz coming from the front tweeters. If I now turn off the blower and repeat the same sequence I cannot hear the buzz.

I would say that the buzz frequency is not correlated to the blower speed, but it is difficult to assess because of the increased volume of the blower at high speed.

I have checked the pins and the wiring at the amplifier connectors and they are all sound, so I am wondering if the smoothing capacitor that sits at the plenum chamber fuse box might be the culprit.

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2003 with about 140k miles, radiator was replaced a couple years back, recently replaced timing belt (#2) and some valve cover gaskets in advance of a road trip.

On the road trip, used no cooling air, occasionally used heat at night with the roof down. At one point, I thought I heard my engine louder than normal, but decided it was actually machinery nearby.

The next morning, after only about 1 hour of leisurely driving through a civil war park for about an hour, I confirmed that in fact it was my vehicle making the noise.

It was fairly frequent, and basically sounds and feels (hand on air filter) like the blower kicking on, as if to cool the car off.

But the air temp was cool, the car temp was solid and cool, so there wasn't a good reason for this to be happening.

Because I had just had the timing belt & such done, I stopped at a dealer. The engine light came on as I pulled in.

They indicated that they saw a MAF sensor failure, and that while it needed to be replaced, it wasn't a problem to finish my road trip. They indicated the check engine light was related and also ok to drive with. They then lost a lot of credibility when they tried to ask me if perhaps the AM radio was the noise I was hearing...

Despite that, I continued on (had to be somewhere and they said it was ok to drive). The engine light actually went off the next time I filled up, so I decided perhaps that was actually a gas cap pressure issue (saw that once before in my ~6 years of driving the car).

Back at my home Toyota shop, they confirmed the MAF replacement need, and have also suggested spark plugs (fair enough).

But re: the air, they don't believe it sounds 'wrong'. I agree with that- it sounds 'right', as in when the blower kicks on, and I vaguely recall that it was something I heard back when my radiator actually rusted out / failed.

My issue is that it seems to be happening MUCH more frequently than normal.

So while I don't recall hearing it at all over the past couple years or only on very rare occasions under load, or when the radiator failed, it seems to be almost routine now, where at a given stop light (even in just a few miles of driving in town at low speeds), I'll hear the extra noise.

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Now, I just bought a 07 Yukon which seems to be in a great condition. The check engine light just popped up so I went to a mechanic and he said the code is p0455.

He did a smoke test and showed me that smoke is coming out of the rear of the vehicle at the gas tank area and the car needs the vent valve solenoid changed, but it's only sold at dealer.

So u went to dealer and got this part and decided to change it myself which was quite easy and fun.

I went back to clear the light, then a week later the light came back on, so I went back to him thinking maybe I didn't do it right, so he did another smoke test and sure enough we see smoke coming out of the rear again, so I looked under the car and saw it was coming out of the end of the vent valve assembly which I think is a small air filter. Is that normal? Or is the part defective?

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I have a 2006 Prius and lately, the fan will stop blowing hard on long drives on hot days when the fan is set to High. This happened on a 3 hour trip on the interstate and again when I was driving some back road for about 2 hours. The first time, I noticed the cabin temp was getting hotter so I went to switch the fan speed higher and noticed it was already on high. It was not set to Auto.

When I got home, I let the car cool down for about 30 minutes and when I turned on the car, the AC was blowing full speed and was getting cold like normal. When the fan speed slowed down on its own on the interstate, it was probably blowing at a speed similar to what the fan would normally blow if set to the middle position or maybe even below that. Why the fan would slow down on its own when set on high.

I also just checked the temperature coming from the vent after running the AC on LO temp for about 10 minutes. It was reading 50 degrees with a digital meat thermometer and 46 degrees with an infrared thermometer. So, when the car is cool, the AC seems to be working fine. Just wondering about the fan speed and the fact that the car gets really warm when it slows down on its own.

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I am new to the world of the Cadillac. I bought a nice 1994 Deville for $500 at auction. I replaced the water pump and put two new tires on the front. It is my daily driver I use for work, I put about 96 miles a day on it. The gas mileage is actually really good due to 90% of my drive is on the highway.

The only issue I am currently having is that the Heater/AC blower motor keeps running until I pull the plug under the hood. I started looking up solutions only to find that there really seems to be very little in the way of getting good information.

I have one side saying it's the blower motor itself
another saying it's the BMC
another saying it's the heater/ac programer
and still another saying there is no cure just pull the fuse

When I checked here I found one person with the same problem back in 2011, but there was no resolution.

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I have an 04 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L V6 AWD with climate control. All other trucks this year I've only seen with manual HVAC controls. My blower motor is constantly running anytime the key is turned on. It feels like it is blowing 3/4 strong all the time and I can turn it up, what feels like one setting higher. Even if the climate control is turned off it keeps blowing. I can control the temp and AC and defroster, I just cannot control the actual airflow pressure from the vents. On an older car this seems like a resistor issue. Is this a common issue? If so, what can I do to try to rectify this?

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