Yukon :: 99 Replace Hinge Pin And Bushings On Barn Door Hinges?
Apr 17, 2006
Replacing the hinge pin and bushings on the barn door hinges? My drivers side upper hinge pin has completely sheared in two. I took it to the body shop today for replacement and they could not fix it. I think it was more labor intensive than they had imagined.
Anyway, they say I have to replace both the door side and the truck side hinge which are both welded on despite the bolts on the truck side. I found a site that retrofits the front door hinges and they have a special tool to press the old hinge pin out. Is this possible to press out the hinge, or should I try to drill them out?
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She's 10 years old with most of her life spent in AZ. This means that a lot of the rubber she has is dead or dying.
Is it possible to replace the bushings in the trailing arm or is it true that you have to replace the entire trailing arm?
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Having problem with the rear door latching?the glass hatch closes ok it is just the barn door that wont latch. Is there a fix or do I have to replace the lock mechanism...
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I have had 2 mechanics tell me I need new front bushings and 1 said no. How would I know if I do? Would my car make any sounds etc...?
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The driver's side barn door won't open. I took the handle off and the door panel and the cable is out but not broken. I'm having trouble figuring out exactly how that mechanism in there really works. I can see where the cable lifts, and I push on the other end of the "arm" and it doesn't release the door, almost seems like it should lift higher. I w-d40 the out of it and I'm gonna look at it again tomorrow in the light. Hopefully it was just stuck or gummed up. I don't want to take it in for something that seems like I should be able to do!
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The drivers side barn door won't open. I took the handle off and the door panel and the cable is out but not broken. I'm having trouble figuring out exactly how that mechanism in there really works. I can see where the cable lifts, and I push on the other end of the "arm" and it doesn't release the door, almost seems like it should lift higher....
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Just noticed my front drivers side door hinges are loose.. looks like the sleeves are cactus. Just wondering if these can be re-sleeved or is it preferable to just order new hinges?
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My door hinges are noisy (creak sound) even more so since this spring mostly on the back doors. I've been using white lithium grease (lots of it) like it's suggested but it doesn't last (only a couple days) ...
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Renee said her barn door lock stopped locking and unlocking with the key, so I checked the connecting rod from the cylinder to the actuator and found it had broke off the cylinder. I also found a small metal clip of some sort laying loose in the area beneath the actuator.
I checked the 'net and couldn't find any good, close up pics of each end of the rod to see how it's attached. I did find a YouTube vid of the actuator area, but when the goombah in the vid started talking, I thought to myself, that voice sounds familiar! So I scrolled down the page and what do I see? Apocs pic and name, showing it was uploaded by Jon, LOL.
Anyway, can someone remove that back plastic panel on the rear hatch and take a few pictures of the connecting rod and how it connects to the actuator? I know I have to replace the plastic/metal tab that connects the rod to the cylinder, but that opposite end, the actuator end, has me a bit perplexed.
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I am buying my Dad's '99 F-150 4x4 Lariat from him and this truck squeaks something terrible. I am assuming that the chassis bushings need to be replaced. I have 2 questions.
1. Am I on the right track to solve the problem?
2. How hard is the job?
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I need to locate the specs or blueprints of the rear cargo door hinges. Junkyards thus far, are not willing to sell just the hinges.
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My 2007 SWB LS 460 with 22,000 miles on it has required replacement of the driver's side door hinges twice and the passenger front door hinges once. This is obviously of concern, since the original fix on the driver's side failed again within 8 months. The car has light single driver use. My dealer says that Lexus "knows about" the problem.
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Replacing the top door hinge on a mk4 r32 if so what size spline is it?? also has to remove the hinge pin?? was this a easy enough job if so whats the procedure.
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We, just today I went to fill up the 2006 prius and noticed the fuel door hinge broke. The only thing keeping the door on is the plastic fuel cap cable.
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Randomly my driver side door hinge squeaks....
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I need to do the doors on my work van..Is there a hinge pin kit that works?
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Our 2010 base model GX 460 was 'born' in November 2009 and purchased new in February 2010, but we never used the 120 VAC power outlet at the back of the cargo compartment by the rear door hinge. I was cleaning and swapping 'summer' floor mats for 'winter' mats and decided to see if the outlet works. The appended pictures prove it does produce 120 VAC .... actually, almost 124 VAC, but I have no way to test if it can supply 100 Watts, much less the waveform shape. Perhaps it could light a 100 Watt incandescent bulb, but nothing sensitive to supply line glitches!
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2007 Chevy Impala 1LT3.5L Flex Fuel 6 cyl engineauto trans50,500 miles
Note: All new struts and tires one year ago (approx 7,000 miles ago) after hitting raised pavement road hazard on interstate at 70 mph and bottoming out car. Entire suspension system was thoroughly examined for damage at the time and only struts, tires and one front wheel bearing needed repair/replacement. Also, just passed safety and emissions inspection about six weeks ago prior to this new creaking sound appearing.
PROBLEM: Since weather turned cold about two weeks ago, an intermittent "creaky door hinge" sound in the car rear end when driving over rough spots and to a lesser extent sometimes when turning. No noticeable change in how the car handles, rides, steers, brakes, etc. Just the creaky door hinge sound from somewhere in the rear end. No recent hitting of pot holes or other reason I can think of for why this has started other than the advent of cold weather. Pushing down hard on the trunk and trunk corners does not reproduce the sound, although I can't really push down all that hard so that is no proof one way or the other.
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The thread started from a guy with a 2007 LS where his door hinges were becoming basically awful to the point where it was very difficult to shut the doors. My response follows...
So it's almost been two years since the last post in regards to this but I thought I would share a similar experience I'm going through with my 2007 GS 350. 2 months ago I broke down and bought a set of hinges for the right rear door because it got to the point that you physically had to walk with the door to close it ($400 parts, labor, paint). I am now having a similar experience with the driver door and it's getting worse every month.
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I noticed earlier this afternoon that when I opened my front passenger door to reach in and get my phone out, the hinge creaked/squeaked. Everytime I would open/close the door it would make the sound. This door has only been opened about 5 times since I bought the car on April 30th. I have never heard tell of this on a new car, so it is disappointing. Had I had a passenger in the car and they heard that, well it would have been a little embarrassing on a brand new car. It sounded like a 30 year old car that had never had its door hinges oiled. It may just need some grease or something, but I would think this should have been lubed properly during assembly.
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Have had a persistent squeak in my passenger front door since buying it used 9 months sgo. Tried WD40, even have had dealer install 2 new hinges.. but still have the loud squeak (starts about 1/2 way opening the door).
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