Yukon :: 2004 Would Not Start / Coolant Leaking
Aug 10, 2011
Why a 2004 Yukon Denali would not start. It's leaking coolant. The battery was replaced less than 2 weeks ago and it doesn't jump start. I was told that the water pump is cracked and when you turn the key the lights and radio come on but that's about it.
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2004 Denali XL with 78,800 miles. I've had it since July '12, and when I changed the oil immediately after buying it (74,700 miles) it was low and filthy. All the fluids were checked/topped, and I had to rebuild the front drive diff and replace a cracked axle tube shortly thereafter.
Everything has been fine since, except for some coolant spewing out mysteriously every once in a while and slightly more than a qt of ATF just disappearing about a week or two ago.
It was shifting a little jerky so I checked the fluid and found it just barely on the stick. Quite a surprise since I check it every month or so, and I've never seen a drop on the ground.
Should I flush or do the standard filter and partial change? The fluid is pink and clean looking at this time.
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I have a 2002 GMC Yukon with 195,000 miles. The oil pan is now leaking and it needs a new gasket. It has 40psi oil pressure at idle. The lifters knock when first started. Should I replace the oil pump when the pan is pulled to replace the gasket? What else should I change while the pan is off with this high mileage vehicle?
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2003 XL 5.3L with a leaking fuel line between the tank and filter. Mechanic says that this line is only available in a kit that includes all fuel lines for the truck. Hard to believe you can't just get the one line.
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I've had a issue since I've owned my 2015 purchased new that I didn't get a chance to take in again until recently. I have a little fluid that leaks out of the Hybrid coolant reservoir. This is not the one attached to the radiator for the ICE, I have an issue with the hybrid component one. When I first received my car the fluid was above the full level. After a few times wiping it up I stopped by and had the dealer remove the excess fluid from the reservoir until it was at the MAX line. After a little while I noticed some fluid continued to seep/leak out and I'm at the low line now. I recently took my car in again to take care of a few things before the bumper to bumper expires. When I received the car back I didn't fully review my paperwork until I got home. I saw the comment that "Normal characteristics of the Hybrid cooling system" ...
A second issue I have is I get a squeak sometimes when I start driving the car. Sounds like it's coming from the front wheel, it's not a constant squeak, but one that happens with each rotation of the wheel. They were unable to recreate the issue as it's random. Brakes were checked and no issue found. I'll have to see if I can get it to show the issue for the service rep.
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So, the sideways coolant tank in the engine compartment, not the one next to the grill, but the one that is sort of between the air filter box and that shiny metal square
I have always thought that tank was slightly low, but it has a seam just about where the full line is, so I was never sure....finally about three weeks ago, I worked up my courage and put a few ounces of coolant in that tank. THEN it was up to the full line.
So, a few weeks after adding the coolant, I had the water pump recall done. Now the coolant level is back down to where it was before I added....so I am assuming that the correct level is just below that seam that seals the top of the plastic tank to the bottom part of the tank.
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I got my oil changed and was told my coolant reservior is cracked and leaking. I have been driving 4,000 miles since then and not known or noticed anything until informed today.
Is this a high priority fix? I'm not sure exactly what it is but my car hasn't showed any signs of overheating. Also what is an estimate of price for parts and labor?
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I seem to be leaking coolant, its not coming from the radiator, and all my hoses seem to be okay as well. I removed the airbox, the leak is on the drivers side by the engine. Where this leaking might be coming from?
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The last week or so, the coolant level low light has been coming on in my 04 Touareg V6, and I've noticed that it is leaking underneath the car. I've been keeping a close eye on the level, and filling it back up until I could get it into the dealer. They can't get me in until the 24th, so when I was under it last night changing the oil I checked it out.
It is dripping from a round plastic piece on the firewall with a square "knob" on it. This "knob" has what looks like a cross indented into it. It was dripping slowly while the car was on, and continues for a few minutes after it's been turned off. I originally thought it was the a/c condensation dripping off, but it's definitely antifreeze.
I fear that it's the heater core and that it is leaking from the inside, but I could just be paranoid. It should still be under warranty (34,000 miles).
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As shown in the photo, the metal pipe that runs behind the exhaust manifold is leaking coolant. I can't see the leak (obviously), but I can feel it with my hand (after getting burned on the exhaust!) It is NOT leaking from the right hand clamp of the metal pipe. How do I remove this pipe to inspect? Do I have to remove the exhaust to get to it, or simply remove the right side clamp and some bolts?
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Bought a 04 GLI had the bad engine, had the engine installed sat at the shop for nearly a year. Towed car to my house to finish it and now I am running into their lack of knowledge and fixing their crap. Now the current issue...On the thermostat housing, a nipple that comes off the side has nothing connected and leaking coolant.
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I have a 2004 2.7 liter toyota tacoma with 135000 miles. the head cracked and was leaking coolant into the #2 cylinder. it wasn't catastrophic and was still running with just a stumbling idle at start up when cold. That said i took it apart, found the crack and I am in the process of replacing the head at home, my mechanic did all the diagnosis work.i don't remember overheating or when the head could have cracked.
Question is.....what should i check or replace while the head is off so that i don't crack my new head??there were never puddles of coolant under the truck. I just don't want to replace my head and crack a new one.
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I recently was informed by my local mechanic that fuel was leaking into my coolant. He said I had a cracked head based on this and it would give soon. Well, he was right, and now I need to do a head job. I found new heads, but would like to know how many book hours this should take before I proceed. He gives me a wide range of time, and don't want to get taken advantage of.
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I spotted a leak last nite on my 6.0. It is coolant, running down the right rear on 2 metal lines that go to the trans I think. It was dark and 24 degrees so I did not spend too much time looking. Shut the mother down til I could research. 2004 250, 6.0 FX4x4, stock. Coolant was changed to green by previous owner. Bought it 4 months ago. 187,000 miles.....
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My 98 Yukon won't turnover. There is power to everything, but when I turn the key nothing happens. What's wrong?
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'99 Yukon. Starter spins engine fine but engine won't start. Spray a quick shot of starter fluid or drip some gas on the air filter and it starts fine. After sitting idle for a half hour or so the situation returns. Car will run highway speeds (70-80mph) fine and will handle stop and go in town. Local mechanic wants to replace the fuel pump, which was replaced a couple of years (30,000 miles) ago. This seems an expensive first step with no diagnostics done.
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I have a 2004 gmc yukon. It won't go into any gear but when I wait awhile it will go into forward and reverse. So I use my code reader and there was nothing in there but I cleared it anyway than the yukon will drive. Do you think is the solenoid...
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1999 gmc suburban shut off no start next morning will crank then act's like it loads (cranks hard for a second then back to normal) has good spark has a fuel vapor out of exhaust but will not fire.
What I've checked
Spark on every plug. Good and new
When I pulled the plugs they were wet with gas
Distributor turns new cap & rotor
Checked time manually (TDC looked at distributor rotor Pointing cylinder at # 1 cylinder
Will check fuel pressure when I get home
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I have a 2004 GMC Yukon SLT, 2WD. At night, when I signal right, my high beams come on. After making the right turn, my signal disengages and the high beams return to low. Now I only make left turns at night.
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About a month ago I was using my driver side seat heater when I noticed it wasn't warm anymore. I looked over and found the indicator light for the heater was off. Here is what happens:
When I push the buttons, I can hear a relay click under the dash, the indicator lights come on quickly, but then they go right back off. It does not matter if I choose upper or lower heaters, and it acts the same for both driver & passenger seats.
I connected up a Snap-On computer to it yesterday. We went under the driver door module and it shows the heated seats, but no error codes were present. It displayed the heated seat as inactive. When the button is pushed, it would show active for a split second, then go right back to inactive.
My mechanic friend thinks that it may be a shorted heater module. He isn't 100% sure on if that is the correct diagnosis, or where to locate the module. I believe it to be under the driver's seat.
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My 04 Yukon XL blows ice cold from both units while driving. However, at a stop light or in park the temperature of the air warms slightly. It will sometimes also blow hot. I checked the pressure using one of the units available at auto parts stores, and it was a low. I added refrigerant and the issue got a little better. I am thinking the fan clutch may be going bad? The truck doesn't overheat at all and in fact stays at mid-gauge throughout operation. Am I correct in pin-pointing the fan clutch?
Also, I know on the and up the TPS tells the pressure for each tire. Is there a way to get this same feature on my? Would it be possible through a software upgrade or replacing the entire DIC?
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