Yukon :: 2004 - Relay Click Under The Dash / Indicator Lights Come On
Dec 30, 2011
About a month ago I was using my driver side seat heater when I noticed it wasn't warm anymore. I looked over and found the indicator light for the heater was off. Here is what happens:
When I push the buttons, I can hear a relay click under the dash, the indicator lights come on quickly, but then they go right back off. It does not matter if I choose upper or lower heaters, and it acts the same for both driver & passenger seats.
I connected up a Snap-On computer to it yesterday. We went under the driver door module and it shows the heated seats, but no error codes were present. It displayed the heated seat as inactive. When the button is pushed, it would show active for a split second, then go right back to inactive.
My mechanic friend thinks that it may be a shorted heater module. He isn't 100% sure on if that is the correct diagnosis, or where to locate the module. I believe it to be under the driver's seat.
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I have a 2004 Excursion with the 6.0 diesel 189k kilometers. Had an egregious delete done about 3 weeks ago. A couple of nights ago the temperature was about 10 degrees f and Whalen I started her it sounded like electrical arcing or grinding. She started and off I went. The next morning it was 0 f went to start and made the same noise and then just stopped cranking. Now when I turn to start I get nothing except the relay click under dash. I tried jumping the solenoid and got nothing. Someone told me that my ground connection might be off the starter. Problem is I can't seem to get at the starter.
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My friend (yes, really, a friend, not me) parked her 2004 Dodge Caravan in the driveway the evening before. The next morning it would not start. No crank, no grind, no click, and no dash lights, nada, nothing. She took it to the shop she's taken the car to for years for repair and maintenance. She trusts them. They've replaced the battery and run a full diagnostic on it, but are unable to solve the problem. The shop is telling them her it could run into the thousands just to figure out the problem. What could they be missing?
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I just installed a set of HID conversion kit on my 2005 F-150 STX. It is only one beam bulb so therefor I have no high beams. Also, to remind you I have fog lights on the truck. My question is, when I turn my head lights on, and pull the switch to turn on the fog lights, a "blue light" indicator lights up on the dash. It is the high beam indicator and why that is lit. As far as I remember, that light never came on before the install. You have to excuse me since this is my first truck ever and I just got it back after having it repaired at the body shop the last two months. So technically, I only had the truck for 2 months....Just curious whether the blue light is suppose to be on when the fogs are on the dash.
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I bought my 2001 f250 5.4 a few weeks ago. It had a blown plug but other than that everything worked fine no codes. I fixed the plug yesterday finally had time, tried to crank it and battery was dead. So I charged the battery up and tried to crank and engine wouldn't turn over just a click like battery was dead even tried battery off my explorer same thing. I tried arcing the solenoid on started it arced but engine didn't turn over. Tried cranking again and started having crazy electrical problem. The #1 relay for the interior lights was making a repeated click click click and int lights would flash in sync with the clicks.
I then realized my headlights,blinkers,stereo wouldn't work but when I would cut headlights or hazard lights on the blinking int interior light would stop until I turned headlights off. I have an obd link sx with enhanced ford diagnostics software so I plugged it in, and I had 12 B codes all of them was relays that "supposedly" went bad at exact same time and there was two C codes that were raps related. My initial thinking is the gem but if it was bad why would it throw 12 bcm codes and two chassis codes. Could it be the raps and if so I wonder why it would throw 12 faulty relay codes. I guess my question is where would I start gem,bcm,raps or is it something totally different then that.
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Its and 09, I can hear a relay click under the dash. It has gotten really hot since i bought it in sept to the point where I had to turn it off because I thought it was going to burn my bottom. I am guessing its not an easy fix.
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On my way home from work today I could not believe my eyes when the Hybrid Warning Light came on…yes, the RED TRIANGLE! I was just cruising down the highway and I heard a relay click and then I saw the warning light illuminate. Also I noticed the A/C air started warming up, the fan stayed on though, so I am guessing the computer shut off the compressor?
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I have a 1985 Cutlass Ciera Brougham with the 2.5L four cylinder. It was driving and running great, and then one day it would not start. At first I thought that it might be the battery. I put my jump battery on and still nothing. I checked the battery voltage and it was good. Then I thought that it might be the starter. I crawled under the car and pulled the starter out. I took it to the store where I bought it just a year ago and had it tested, it passed. When the key is turned on all of the lights on the dash light up and the only sound that is heard is the fuel relay clicking on. The starter does not spin, click, hum, engage or make any indication that it is getting power. I put a wrench to the harmonic balancer bolt and I am able to spin the engine freely, so the engine is not seized. When the poles on the starter are jumped via a screwdriver the engine will crank, but will not start. Could a neutral safety switch or ignition switch that has gone bad cause such symptoms?
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I have a 1990 Honda Accord that I'm having a problem with. When I turn the key to start the car, the car turns over and starts great, but when I let go of the key the car immediately dies. Before I actually push the key into position III to start the car, I've discovered that I can move the key in the range between positions II and III and get the indicator lights on the dash to go on and off, so clearly there is some sort of loose electrical connection. I've discovered that if I start the car and then quickly turn the key back a ways to the point where the connection seems to be good, I can keep the car from dying and then it runs fine. Does the diagnosis of a bad ignition cylinder/switch seem to be accurate for this problem? I just don't want to replace the wrong component(s).
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2006 F-250 6.0l,Auto, 175,xxx mi
When I turn the key to on, I hear the vacuum pump cycle (passenger side fender), but don't hear the glow plugs or injectors cycle. Glow plug light comes on and stays on for 30secs. Wrench light comes on initially, but goes off after 3 secs, but then comes back on after about 8-10 seconds. When the wrench light comes on, I hear a click under the dash and my cab lights go off.
When I turn the key to start, nothing happens. If I jump the starter, engine turns over, but doesn't start. I have check numerous fuses, disconnected the fan clutch, tried moving the shifting lever to neutral, wiggled wires around the FICM/PCM/GPCM with no success.
I tried checking for DTC codes, but my scanner (300 reader) doesn't get any power. I have checked my light, it has power.
Twice before, the truck failed to start like this, but after removing & inspecting fuses/relays (all were good), it started back up. Also, occasionally the truck would stall, (just like someone turned the key off), but would start right backup. But when it stalled, the glow plug light would illuminate for a second,then go off.
Own truck for 8 months, replaced the batteries & injectors 6 months ago. Very light puff of smoke when starting up otherwise ran well when shut off.
How to proceed? My first diesel so I may need some extra details.
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I have a 98 f150 4x4, 4.6L 150k miles, during start up the blinker indicator lights on the dash illuminated and stayed on, when trying the blinkers they did not work, but if I shut the head lights off the blinkers do work and indicators respond normally. This is the same if I turn the fan blower on, blinkers don't work and indicators stay illuminated. Also I have found that the power windows, and 4wd no longer work. Other functions work such as power mirror, radio etc. all fuses under the dash and under the hood are good, I tried switching some of the relays to see if that changed anything but with no success . took the kick panel off and inspected the grounds and all seem tight. It looks like the main battery ground is just to the body and there is one solid ground from the frame to the body under the cab. all seem tight and don't appear to be corroded. Truck starts and runs great.
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I have a buddy with a 1999 F250 W/7.3 TD. His property is accessed through a couple miles of hard terrain, so this may wind up being a loose ground or something that pulled loose.Anyway, the truck just all the sudden won't accelerate. It'll crank & idle all day long, but when you hit the gas.....nothing happens. I realize the diesel doesn't have an accelerator cable, as it is drive by wire. First thought was the APP sensor(accelerator), but most of the dash indicator, O/D, etc. lights are inop too.
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I have a 2004 XLE V6 that just recently has started a clicking/ticking noise coming from the dash around the passanger side/glove box area. It sounds like a small electrical relay noise randomly making/braking its contacts. At first I thought it was the CD player (you know how it clicks when changing/loading CDs), but it happens with the radio turned off.
The noise does not have any definite rhythm and it's not coming from the engine, but only makes the noise when the engine (and A/C) is running. I've noticed the noise will go away after the interior temperature cools down. What is causing this clicking/ticking noise?
Since I have a XLE with the digital temperature control, is there a temperature sensor located somewhere that feeds a signal to the A/C controls for the cabin temperature to automatically adjust the cabin temperature/fan speed, etc.?
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We got a ton of snow dumped on us today and for some reason my 4WD has decided not to work this year. I have a 2000 F250 4WD Triton V10. The hubs click into the lock position and the dial on the dash lights up 4x4 but I am definitively not engaging into 4WD. I'm pissed because this is specifically the reason i bought a 4WD and it's failing me. I can't find a fuse panel diagram to save my life however all the fuses in the interior of truck look to be fine.
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I have a 2004 GX470 that has been the best car. However a new sound has been heard coming from the interior behind the dash. Click Click Click and is constant even when a/c is off and radio is off. Only happens when car is running.
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My truck is a 2007 F-350 DRW. I'm not sure when,because I don't use it much in Texas, but My Four Wheel Indicator lights on the dash quit working. I don't see them in the dash at startup either. I'm not sure if the four wheel drive is coming on at all. There is probably a way to check that without driving off into a mud bog, right? Anyway I have looked for blown fuses etc, no luck yet. (15amp#33 under dash and 30amp#3 under hood). These are according to my manual.
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I have a 2004 Buick Century and the small window that indicates what gear you are in, on the dash, is very dim. All other dash lights are bright and working good. Is this the bulb and what sort of job is it to change it.
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I have a 07 Lariat with vacuum 4X4 switch. Goes in and out of 4 Hi and Low however dose not light up on dash for 4 Hi only( 4 Lo lights up ). Is this the beginning of a vacuum leak or bigger problem?
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I have a 2000 LS, V6, that won't start, had the battery and alternator checked and are fine, last week i notice when I turn the switch to start up there was a 1 or 2 second delay then it would start, the other day the wife called me at work to tell she she was out and it wouldn't start as I was talikng to her she tried it and it started right up, didn't do it again until this morning, check the fuses and all were ok, it started 2 times then about 30 minutes, nothing, and i mean nothing, the security on the dash doesn't indicate a problem, I turn the switch everything lights ups as it should, everything works(radio...etc.) go to start and nothing but click, sounds like it comes from the fuse/relay box under the hood, starter maybe? relay?
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About 2 weeks ago, my jetta decided it didn't want to start. Was getting symptoms of a bad ignition switch prior to this. Could get it to start one by jiggling the key. Replaced the ignition switch and now could hear the starter relay click but still no start. Yesterday, installed a reman starter and got it to start once. Could here the solenoid click when trying to start. Was reading on here or somewhere that it my be my power control relay, so took the top off to look at it and it was fine. Battery was down about 100 amps so it was replaced and still no start. Going to go see if my vag com will talk to to the ecu. Thinking about pulling the starter out and having it tested.
MK2 are so much easier.
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I have a 1998 Camry. My directional light and click correctly when I tun them on. When I GENTLY turn off the directional signal, I hear the relay continue to click, however the dash lights do not blink, nor do the outside lights. If I let the directional lever jump back into place, the problem does not occur. Is it the switch in the column, or the relay?
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