Yukon :: 2001 GMC - Random Misfire / Getting About 2000 RPMs When Accelerate
Nov 25, 2013
I have recently had some problems with my 2001 Yukon, it a 5.3L and has 4x4. when I accelerate I get about 2000 RPMs maybe and can barely get above 35mph. I brought it to a local dealer for a diagnosis and was told I had a bad catalytic converter, four bad O2 sensors and bad injector connectors. I've replaced the injector connectors but its still acting up. I don't want to spend the 700-1000 on a new catalytic converter when I can just replace the sensors.
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
I was running in a track day at Sebring today and missed a shift. Rookie move...the car eventually went into limp mode. I took the car back to the pits and scanned the codes. Limp mode was confirmed in addition to a cylinder 4 misfire and a random/intermittent misfire. Cleared the codes and went back out; couldn't even finish the lap before the car was thrown back into limp mode.
I was able to hobble home by keeping the car out of boost and started trouble shooting. So far I have ruled out spark plugs and coils. Should I be looking at the injector next? Any chance I bent a valve? The misfire can be triggered by putting the car under a load and bringing it up to 5,000 RPMs or higher.
View 24 Replies
About a month ago my wife's 2000 Jetta with the VR6 engine in it started acting up and throwing codes. The codes it threw were for random misfire, misfire in cylinder 2, and misfire in cylinder 5. Starting out, we changed spark plugs, fuel filter, and made sure the injectors were clean.
The problem didn't go away so we water tested the coil and wires, but they passed that test. The wires were quite old and out of spec, while the coil was in-spec across all terminals, according to the vehicle service manual, so we installed some new OEM leads this weekend. While installing the leads we noticed a disconnected vacuum line and reconnected that as well.
The vehicle was driving great for two and a half days, then today while I was sitting at a stop light, it started missing really badly and felt like it was going to kill. It did this for about 5 seconds, then recovered and ran smooth for about 5 seconds, before getting really rough until I started driving when the light changed. It didn't do it when I drove it a few hours later at all. This episode didn't throw any codes either.
What could be causing this issue? Would the MAF cause the intermittent missing, or is it possible that the computer is going bad?
View 3 Replies
We have been fighting a misfire code for about a year now and I'm pretty sure I finally found the cause. Last Spring the car died on the road and we had it towed to a local service center where they said the fuel pump was bad...this was the 2nd in about 2 years (previous owners doc). We had it replaced and the car was fine but as mentioned had a random misfire code that would come and go. In the last month the car has left us stranded several times and then started after a few hours or a day. While checking the connection to the fuel pump with a meter and test light I verified the pump was getting power correctly to the 5-pin connector but would not start. I unplugged the connector and the 1st 2 pins in the harness connector were damaged and probably burnt.
I cleaned it and applied dialectic grease and plugged it back in turned on the key...fuel pump primed and then the car started and ran fine. It then started to randomly turn on and off but not enough to stall the car. I wiggled the connector and the it I could make it run or shut off. Obviously the connector is bad and the contacts are intermittent. While driving the vibrations would move it just enough to make it cut on and off and more than likely cause a misfire code and sometimes stall the car. My problem now is I can't find a replacement connector/pigtail for the harness connector anywhere including the dealer. Where can I get a new connector for the 5-pin fuel pump harness connector? I have found a MAF replacement connector that looks very similar but not 100% sure if it's the same.
View 1 Replies
That Car Grand AM 2000 2.4L SE
The current problem with the car is that it is not accelerating fast, for example i would push the petal to the metal and only go 25 mph and my RPM would be 3000-4000. Initial my brother and cousin though it was the Catalytic converter because it was getting hot but that has recently been change along with the fuel filter and spark plugs. but the catalytic converter is still gets red hot so i forbid myself from driving it till i fix what every causing the slow acceleration and the temperature of the Cata when i took the error code think P0300 random misfire to the local Autozone they printed me a long list of things that could be a issue my question is what is the likely culprit so i can fix those 1st before shelling out cash to rebuild a engine. may just have to get rid of it at that point. so i guess what am asking is a list maybe top 10 so i can fix them one by one as my money comes in.
Before the accelerating issue the car would randomly stop when i slowed down or stooped that when i replace the spark plugs.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2000 Impala with a 3800 V6 series 2 with 165,000 miles. The only code I had was a P0300 Multiple random misfire that occured off and on at first, Worse in the city Better on Highway. It would start running on half the cylinders and bogged down, with the check engine light flashing, after getting onto the highway it would straighten itself out at first. I thought i had water in the gas so i ran some heat through it. straightened out for a day then happened again so I thought maybe a should run some premium gas in it, The car ran like total crap until the premium was gone, so i thought maybe it's running too rich, I put 87octane in it and it ran great for a day or two, then it gradually got worse to where it would not straighten up on the highway, tried to die at stoplights and i had to drive it with 2 feet to get it home and park it. I've replaced the battery, spark plugs, wires, ICM checked good, coil packs are good, replaced fuel Pressure regulator, looked for arcing on the spark plug heat shields and it will not start. It turns over but doesn't try to ignite and when I get the slightest rumble of ignition, it backfires up through the manifold and I see a puff of gas or light smoke by the exhaust manifold.
The car had a vacuum leak around the intake manifold cover gasket and a leak on the fuel rail. I pulled the fuel rail off my impala, snugged up the rest of the intake bolts then disassembled the fuel rail, flushed it out and cleaned the injectors the best i could, then reassembled it. before i re-installed the fuel rail I hooked it up to the fuel lines outside of the engine and tried to start the vehicle. all injectors had a nice spray pattern. So i installed the rail and it still didn't start but it had more combustion than before although it's still backfiring like before. Checked the fuel pressure by turning the key on and the fuel pressure went to zero very fast. I blew the rail out with air so to make sure i didn't damage the regulator I replaced it with the old one, ran the test again with same results, so i reinstalled the new regulator. I performed the fuel pressure test a few more times while moving the fuel hoses and when i moved the back supply line the vacuum loss stopped then dropped to zero when i let off of it. So I replaced the fuel line connector and O-rings on the injectors. It no longer has a vacuum leak.
I cleaned the EGR Valve out and had no luck there, then I removed the Idle Air Control Valve-pushed the pintle in, re-ionstalled it and WooHoo! it started! Although it still ran like crap with the same random misfire I was still happy to hear it start.I pulled the plugs on it to do a compression test and all 6 cylinders have between 180-190psi so the engine is in good condition mechanically. I installed new plugs before getting the car restarted and when i removed them for the test they were covered in thick black soot after running for roughly 15 minutes max.
I have (2) 2000 Chevy Impala's so I've swapped sensors from my wifes car to see if it would fix it. I've tested the following MAP, MAF, IAC, coil packs and ECM. None of these made the car change. I believe it is a timing chain because the car has never had a new timing chain and is way overdue, but I haven't had a code for a crankshaft position sensor. Can the timing chain be bad without throwing a code? It's not out of time enough to change the valve timing because I had a good compression test but its not firing right and still has the multiple random misfire. I have not checked or received a trouble code for o2 sensors, crankshaft position sensor or cam sensor. Something has the timing retarded and is dumping extra fuel into the engine because my new plugs looked like they were in the engine for a year.
View 4 Replies
I'm having continued issues with my mom's POS 2005 Hyundai Accent. It usually runs great cold, but once it's warmed up, it will stall out while driving. This almost always happens when accelerating from a stop. After it stalls, you have to let it set for 30 seconds to a minutes before it will start again. It will also sometimes idle roughly.
I've changed out the TPS and the MAP sensor, the battery, the CPS, the fuel pump, and the spark plugs. I did find that the radiator bypass hose was leaking on to the wiring for the O2 sensor. I fixed that, and the wires appear to be fine. I've sprayed throttle cleaner around the intake and can't find a leak. I scanned the ODB codes and I'm getting a Random misfire, misfire on cylinders 1, 2, 3, and 4, the Throttle Position Sensor and the MAP sensor, both of which have been replaced.
Tonight during my troubleshooting I was trying the wiggle test on the various connectors and got zapped when I was wiggling the coil pack connectors. Is that normal? I'm starting to suspect a wiring or electrical issue, but I'm not sure how to troubleshoot that.
View 28 Replies
I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L V6 when i was driving a couple of days ago the check engine light flashed and after a while it stayed on the codes are P0300 which is a random misfire as well as a misfire in cylinder 2, 4 and 6
I replaced all 6 spark plugs and the 3 spark plug wires still the same issue. The car hesitates when accelerating when i accelerate it looks like it wants to stop the rpm goes to almost zero and then it moves and so on. the rpm goes up and down like crazy.
Sometimes it won't move past 1000 rpm I'm moving 60mph and still on 1000rpm and sometimes it works just fine like there is no issue at all. When idle the car is fine and everything seems normal it stays on 900rpm. The car has 158K miles on it.
I uploaded a video to show you what's happening to the tachometer when I accelerate [URL] ....
I'm on a limited budget I'm thinking of changing the ignition coils but i want to make sure that's what is causing the problem first because i spent 200$ to change spark plugs and wires and the mechanic didn't fix the issue.
View 13 Replies
Trying to troubleshoot my 2001 Elantra (173k). I'm having intermittent trouble codes being set and I'm wondering if they may be related:
P0302
P0303
P0446
The cylinder 2 and 3 misfires are relatively recent. Plugs and wires are visually ok (and not that old). I swapped plugs 1 and 4 with 2 and 3 to see if the plugs are bad. It took 3-4 days, but the P0303 set again (and it's very intermittent - car will noticeably lose power for a few seconds, code set, then run fine for several days). I also sprayed carb cleaner on the intake manifold gasket with no change in engine idle, so the gasket appears to be intact.
I had read in a forum somewhere that the misfires could be related to a vacuum leak, which could also be setting the P0446 code. I removed the charcoal canister and inspected the lines - visually ok.
I bench-tested the canister control valve and it did operate, though I noticed some charcoal blocking the valve so it would not close all the way when energized. I used compressed air to blow the debris out of the valve and it appears to close properly now.
I went to hmaservice.com and noticed there are no instructions for the P0446 DTC. I've been using a Haynes manual instead. For quite some time now when refueling, the fuel nozzle shuts off every few seconds (I have to slowly put the fuel in to avoid).
Some questions:
- Can these codes be related?
- Based on my symptoms, should I replace the canister control valve? What about the charcoal canister and the charcoal air filter - should those be replaced as well?
- What else should I check?
View 9 Replies
My car is a Canadian 2002 Accent. I believe it's a GLS, and it has the 1.5L engine.
It has a worsening misfire in the low RPM's, although the RPM range this happens in has been broadening. I can now smell unburnt gas when this happens.
This problem first reared its head around a year ago. I replaced the fuel and air filters without it resolving the problem. I changed the spark plugs - the old ones looked to be in reasonable shape, but suddenly it ran great with the new plugs - for a few months.
The misfire started to creep back in. Since then, I've replaced the upstream O2 sensor and cleaned the MAF sensor. I replaced the throttle position sensor. None of these things solved the problem.
The battery terminals were getting pretty corroded - I hadn't thought this would be related to the issue, but I cleaned them. This did not fully solve the problem, but it did drastically improve it. I bought a new battery the same day - the problem while not gone, seemed to be much more manageable.
About 100km later, the problem has significantly worsened again. I tested voltage across the battery - with the car running, the voltage is ~14.2V. When the fan is on full and my fairly high powered stereo is running, voltage still stays ~14.2V. I'm assuming that should mean that the alternator is good?
Previously, I had tried my ignition coil on my sister's Accent, and it seemed to work fine - but I'm not entirely convinced that the coil is guilt free. I have not done any further testing on the coil, and have not tested the spark plug cables - I'm not sure how to properly test the coil or cables, and don't know where to find the appropriate specs for them should I learn how to test them.
I got the car on the cheap, however, aside from the low (now mid) RPM stutter, the car seems to otherwise be in great shape, and only has 150,000 km on it. Unless it's going to cost an excessive amount, I would like to get this car running right again.
View 4 Replies
I recently noticed while driving my Santa fe the car started to stumble.Then a little while later the check engine light came on. Pulled the code came up with p300. It's a random misfire related code.
View 3 Replies
2001 Prius (242,044 miles) with transaxle error code! Red triangle with exclamation mark, check engine light, PS error, Main battery error, and little red car with exclamation mark error. One week ago car gave random misfire codes with a burnt smell... could have been from my car or could have been a smell from the car next to me. Cleared codes and they never came back. This week I get the CODE OF TRANSMISSION DEATH the dreaded P3120 along with a 5 minute wait by the side of the road until I could restart it and drive the 5 miles back to the house. Cleared the code but it came back the next day with another total loss of power and another 5 minute wait on the side of the road.
After I turn off the car and wait a few minutes it will usually start back up and I can continue on my way... sometimes for a few miles and sometimes for 10 miles. My question is this... could this problem be something other than a bad transmission (transaxle) or should I be looking for a used transmission on ebay? I have also heard that it is possible that the MG2 might be bad and that it can be swapped out without pulling the motor so how can I test and confirm my real problem. I plan to repair myself one way or another... Other than all these warning codes and exclamation mark warnings symbols she drives great until she stops producing power and coasts to a total stop.
View 12 Replies
When I accelerate (particularly during heavy throttle) I hear a sound that sounds like a diesel engine between 2000 and 2500 rpm's. It almost sounds raspy in nature.
View 24 Replies
Had this code show up after the warning light came on and then the light went away after two day, the car seems to be a little sluggish now. I have read that this is a random engine misfire and it could be a bad plug..
View 1 Replies
2004 Elantra AT ... 6 months ago top of the radiator cracked caused it to overheat and blow the head gasket and warp the head. Repaired that and compression is fine now. It ran great for 4 months but now it randomly stalls. at or near idle. Seems to do it more at operating temp rather then cold. Occasionally the check engine light will pop on and the code reads (random misfire). It acts just like it has been shut off. But immediately restarts.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2002 Chevy Impala driving it in the city of Chicago. It's recently had the oil changed, and the transmission fluid flushed and filter replaced. This car was mine before I went off to school, and I meticulously maintained it for three years, and then my step sister inherited it. She drove it for two years, and then it sat in the driveway for a year and a half. It's got about 175,000 miles on it.
Problem: Every time I start to accelerate past 25mph and get around 2000rpms, the car starts to give out, sputter and jerk. It starts to drop off right when it should be shifting to second gear. When on the highway, even if I floor the gas peddle, it won't accelerate normally, but instead just crawls slowly to higher speeds.
It will eventually reach the higher speeds, but it takes about 5-10 minutes for it climb up from 25mph. I don't know enough about this level of car trouble to make a diagnosis myself, and would like an estimate of the cost for repairs. Also the car is getting around 19mpg on the highway, which I need to improve if I'm going to survive the $4.50/gal of Chicago gas. I'm hoping that fixing this problem will take care of that as well.
View 3 Replies
Question about a 4th cylinder misfire question? The engine light has been on off and on for about one year. I have not had any problems with performance until about one week ago. sometimes it shakes and the engine light flashes when it is idling. Today my husband drove it, and it would not accelerate when he put his foot on the gas, but it would pick up speed when he left his foot off the gas! Weird. This is an old car (2001 Ford Taurus station wagon) with 137,000 miles on it. We need this car.
View 9 Replies
So my girlfriend has an 04 elantra 2.0... the car will be running fine but then after so long of driving(maybe 15, 20mins) itll start acting strange..
It will hesitate to accelerate and shift hard and at higher rpms. Then at cruising speed it will turn off instantly(no sputter, hesitation, almost as if you just turned the key off). Seconds later the engine will come back but the gauges die and the engine will remain on.
At that point i pulled over and as i was on the brakes the car died when I came to a complete stop. Once the car completely turned off it would not start back up. However jump starting it got it going. The car is not throwing any codes.
View 1 Replies
I have manual shift and the clutch is worn out. when in motion if I press the pedal the rpms jump but the car does not accelerate. only way to accelerate is to press very gently.
Q: do I always need to change the flywheel, which is expensive or changing just the clutch will do??
View 12 Replies
I've got a misfire problem with my Focus. It started about a month ago and did not trip a code until last week. It stumbles on acceleration between 2,000 and 4,000 rpms. It is only a slight stumble and although noticeable, it does not impede driveability much. Last week I was able to get it to finally trip an OBD code. P302 - Cylinder 2 misfire. I changed the plugs and wires with no effect. I thought I had it narrowed down to the coil or injector until my wife noticed a new wrinkle.
Under normal driving conditions the misfire is annoying, but my wife found that if she turns on the A/C, it is undriveable and will not accelerate past 30 mph without some patience and a neck brace for the bucking. My first thought was the A/C compressor was freezing up. I turned off the A/C and left the blower on and it would not stop missing. I turn off the blower and it smooths right out to the annoyance I described first.
Right now I drive the car without A/C and blower whenever I accelerate. If I'm going a steady speed, all is well and I can run the blower and A/C.
View 7 Replies
I have a 2001 Ford Windstar Sports SE with 155K miles. I did a tune-up eight months ago. With the tune up I had to replace the fuel pump because it was defective. Later, I found that there were misfires occurring since I was getting slow acceleration. I had the spark plugs on the guilty cylinders replaced again and the spark plug wires.
Periodically, I have had to return to the shop to have the vehicle checked. I sometimes get a blinking check engine light while trying to accelerate, which now occurs only while it is raining or I am exiting the car wash. The shop is at a loss as to what it is (spark plugs and wires are fine, no lose connections noticed). I am wondering if I should take it to someone else. Of course, taking it somewhere else will cost me $100 to check on someone's else work.
The shop replaced the ignition coil. Distributor cap is fine. They keep saying that the engine is running fine while in the shop and do not get any codes. I had them drive it while it was raining and they discovered that cylinder 4 is misfiring. They worked on the cylinder. The vehicle runs well, until it rains or I wash it.
My questions to the group, "If everything is OK, how come it is misfiring? What are they missing? What is the connection to the moisture?"
View 14 Replies
