Yukon :: 1999 GC Suburban Shut Off / No Start Next Morning But Will Crank
Jan 3, 2014
1999 gmc suburban shut off no start next morning will crank then act's like it loads (cranks hard for a second then back to normal) has good spark has a fuel vapor out of exhaust but will not fire.
What I've checked
Spark on every plug. Good and new
When I pulled the plugs they were wet with gas
Distributor turns new cap & rotor
Checked time manually (TDC looked at distributor rotor Pointing cylinder at # 1 cylinder
Will check fuel pressure when I get home
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I had to choose the Yukon, as there is no Suburban?
Anyway, I have a very bad misfire in my truck. Lopes at idle stumbles under load. Through substitution, I have tested: module, coil, and crank sensor. I have replaced: plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter and upgraded from SCFI to MFI (can you say "expensive best guess"?).
Still getting P-0300, P-0302 and mostly P-0304, using a Snap-on Modis scanner.
Compression tested today: all cylinders between 160- & 170 psi. After this, leak-down seemed redundant.
Back pressure test: 0.5 psi at 2500 RPM, both banks.
Steady fuel at about 60 psi.
I am going to pull distributor (175K miles) and examine drive gear. Not too sloppy at rotor bearing. However, how do I set baseline timing when I re-install distributor? If the distributor is OK, what test or part should I look at next?
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Went to leave this morning and my '05 with 135K would crank but not start. Pulled air cleaner and sprayed a little starting fluid and it fired some so I had a feeling it was fuel related. Reset the fuel cut-out with no luck. I then remember seeing the issues on the forum about the fuel pump driver module corrosion and failures. Bought a new one at the local dealer, installed it and it fired right up.
Pics below...from the side it didn't look to bad but was holed through on the bottom. I highly recommend replacing this if you live in the rust belt.
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I've developed a problem, usually when starting, that the truck will crank over, start and idle for a few seconds and then shut off. The few seconds it idles it doesn't get any throttle input. I'll crank it back over taking a little more than usual to get it started. When it does start it seems slightly sluggish but that quickly, like almost immediately goes away and the throttle is working again.
Oh, 2001, 7.3 stock w/200k
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I'm working on a 2003 Gmc yukon xl, which is the same as the suburban. Check engine light is on and the codes P0220 (TPS sensor) and P1518 (TAC throttle actuator control) are on. I've cleared both codes drove the vehicle all day, but when I shut it off and start it back up the two codes are back on and a message on the dash says reduced power, and there is no throttle. However if I clear the codes everything goes back to normal until I shut the thing off again and the 2 codes pop on and it says reduced power... Now I've cleaned the tps sensor electrical connector thinking this was the problem, but no luck.
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I have a 98 yukon w/ 5.7. Was driving the other day and it killed. Restarted with no problem. Happened again the next day but this time would not start. Upon getting it home to check it out i tested the vehicle wire for the fuel pump with a test light and get nothing from the wires (the key was turned ). Tested all fuses and they are good. So now I'm stuck....
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I have a 1996 GMC Yukon with 243,000 miles on it. It has had the following issue for some time: Start the vehicle, all is well. Put it in gear, begin to roll about 3-5 MPH, can hear the ABS system pulse once, then the ABS light remains on until the vehicle is shut off. This happens 95% of the time. Trying to figure out if this is an issue with a wheel speed sensor, or the ABS unit itself.
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My mazda b 3000 shut off while at a red light i t turned over initially 3-4 times now nothing. changed EGR, ECM, CRANKSHAFT AND CAM SHAFT SENSOR three weeks ago. brand new battery, took alternator in and it was bad so i replaced. theft light is blinking rapidly?
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I have a 03 f250 6.0 had it for 2 years never had a problem. Last week I went out and started it to warm it's up as it is cold out here and it started fine I then noticed some thing hanging down under the dash so I started tucking it up under there and it arced and all gauges shut off and the truck shut off. So I took the panel down and it was the biometric pressure sensor that was hanging and the previous owner had a remote start on there that I never knew about and 2 wires on the sensor were stripped and not taped as well as some others. I checked all fuses and relays all working good tested fuse box and everything good there, replaced bio sensor and still nothing turn the key and try to start it and it does nothing injectors, don't precycle fuel pump doesn't run and starter doesn't kick in. I jumped starter off the wire on fender and it turns over but still doesn't start. Also I think it's the ecu but don't want to buy another one if I'm not sure if that's the problem.
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I have a 2007 6.0 crew cab that I'm having some recent issues with. When starting cold in the A.M. the truck will crank, start for a half second then shut down, after about 3 times it will finally catch and keep running. I'll let it warm a bit, then for the first few minutes of driving it will have a pretty noticeable surge on acceleration only, not at idle.
The surge goes away mostly after warm however you can still feel it happening between 22-2700 rpm and can just see the rpm moving back and forth a little. Lastly the fuel mileage has dropped a good amount. If I baby it around town I'll get 10.5 and can see 9ish occasionally.
Truck has brand new ford fuel filters, ford blue spring, fresh oil change, FICM has 3k miles on it, new batteries in last 6 months. Turbo egr oil cooler done in last 20k. Currently has 120k on it.
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Swapped a new oil cooler and welded Egr shut. Truck ran fine the first 3-4 times I started it except for exhaust leak at the y-pipe/turbo connection. Tried to start it today and it started then ran real rough, blowing whit smoke. Now it will not start at all and blows whit smoke. The only codes I'm getting are egr codes that I've always had due to having the 05 and up intake elbow and the egr turned off via sct. What could be the issue?
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I have a 1999 Ford Ranger and every morning when I go out to start it, it really hesitates and doesn't want to run for a few minutes. once it's going it's fine I can shut it right off and it starts fine, and I can leave it all day from 9am to 6pm and start it again at 6pm and it doesn't hesitate, it fires right up.. it seems like it only happens over night..
When I hooked the code reader up, I get codes P0171 (too lean bank one) & P0174 (too lean bank two)
I also get for the I/M readiness status, that the
EVAP - NOT RDY,
O2S - NOT RDY,
HO2S - NOT RDY
Just want to say also that the shop I had put 2 oxygen sensors in not long ago.=
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When I crank my car up in the morning, i smell gas heavily. it goes away after about 10 minutes. I checked for leaks. I do not see any thing leaking. It also putts until it get warmed up...
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I have some issues with my 2009 F250 5.4L. Recently I got in the car and went to start it. It started fine but I was getting beeping noises from the dashboard. 5 beeps with 1 second between each beep for 3 times. I shut the car off and go to start it again and engine does not crank at all. I get the relay click every time i try to start it but engine doesn't want to crank. Then the beeps come back.
About a month ago I had a reputable shop here in town install a compustar remote starter. It hasn't given me any troubles at all but I'm thinking this might be the culprit behind the issue. I towed the car down to the place where they installed my remote starter and they got the car started. They said I had blown fuses and the remote starter is not behind the problem I'm having. So I picked the car up and it was all good for 4 days and last night I get in the car and same issue.
I scanned the car and came back with these codes
U2472 Ignition State Unexpected
B1868 Lamp Air Bag Warning Indicator Circuit Failure
U2023 Vehicle communication bus error
I tried resetting the codes and tried to start the car (it didn't) and another code popped up
B1555 for ignition run/start circuit failure.
Whats going on? Problem?
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Replaced cups 3ish years ago
Replaced IPR (non- Motorcraft) and ICP last year
New (not remans) PIS Stage 1 injectors with Hydra Flash October
Truck has been running and starting (down to 19 degrees) like a dream since the new injectors. After the last fill up the truck has been harder to start in the morning and if I don't let it warm up till at least until the needle moves it will stall and be difficult to start. Once started and up to temp it runs just fine but will definitely take aa few extra turns to get started whether cold or hot.
There is CEL, I don't smell or see any diesel in the coolant, oil looks good and the diesel in the filter is kind of a clear blue? The way it acts when it stalls is kind of like when the IPR went bad the first time... kind of. The few times I was able to get my phone connected fast enough I saw and IPR duty cycle in the 90s flash and a HPOP pressure of 1500 or so flash all while the truck is barely hanging on to an idle.
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I have a 99 Suburban 5.7L that does not like to start when outside air temperature drops in the fall. This only effects initial morning start and once started it starts and runs fine all day! If i give it a very small shot of either in crankcase vent opening in intake bonnet it starts and runs fine after that! The pump cycles and seems to be fine! Once started all is fine untill the next morning after it sets 12 hours! Could it be the AIT switch?
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Strange thing occured this morning. My 99 Suburban 1500 2wd 130,000 miles would not start. It would turn over but it sounded as though it was starved for fuel. It eventually started but then I noticed that the word "SECURITY" was lit constant on my dash and I read up on it in my manual. If it is faulting I would like to pull the fuse, but the manual says it shares a fuse with steering. My mechanic pulled out the steering sensor about a year ago because the steering wheel would turn sharply in a curve for no reason. Do you think the reason my truck would not start is because of Passlock? I have not done a fuel pressure test and the fuel filter was replaced almost 2 years ago.
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2003 crank no start, 196k bone stock truck egr still in truck and stock head bolts. Replaced the icp sensor and ipr sensor, both from ford. What happened is I got fuel then about 15 minutes afterwards my truck acted like it was going up a hill and was just losing power and shut itself off. ficm tested 48.5 volts all 8 injectors tested good and there is oil pressure. Had an egr fault code but I'm at a loss.....
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ok so let me start by saying, my name is Tim, I own a 1999 Ford Ranger 6 cyl, 3.0L truck, I bought it brand new in 1999 and drove it for a few years and then took it off the road for 3-4 years then last year I went to put it back on the road and I couldn't get it running.
I took it to the dealer and they replaced a key switch module. since then the ranger seems to lack power. It also idles erratically when you first start it in the morning too.
not sure whats going on here but the engine light is on,
I get codes P0171 & P0174 (too lean bank 1 and too lean bank 2)
I would also like to note that I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, transmission filter, MAF sensor, IAT sensor, PCV valve, EGR valve, TPS sensor, idle control solenoid, fuel pressure regulator & new plugs. I have also checked for vacuum leaks with no avail.
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I have a 99 Suburban k1500 that will start and stall out after a few seconds. The security light is on constantly and will not reset after trying all the procedures listed. I have even tried the resistor bypass trick using 3200 ohms as required in procedure. Light would go on and off intermittently for several months on regular pattern and would restart and run fine after setting for a few hours or overnight. Now it has been weeks after a tow home and nothing seems to reset it or work in bypassing it.
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what could make my 1999 chevy suburban with a 5.7L engine act like it want crank. It turns over like the battery is dead. I replaced the battery and the starter but it still drags then it will catch and start. After it starts it runs perfect. Then when I cut it off. The same problem occurs. Could this be a timing issue?
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