I have a 98 yukon w/ 5.7. Was driving the other day and it killed. Restarted with no problem. Happened again the next day but this time would not start. Upon getting it home to check it out i tested the vehicle wire for the fuel pump with a test light and get nothing from the wires (the key was turned ). Tested all fuses and they are good. So now I'm stuck....
View 4 RepliesI have a 1996 GMC Yukon with 243,000 miles on it. It has had the following issue for some time: Start the vehicle, all is well. Put it in gear, begin to roll about 3-5 MPH, can hear the ABS system pulse once, then the ABS light remains on until the vehicle is shut off. This happens 95% of the time. Trying to figure out if this is an issue with a wheel speed sensor, or the ABS unit itself.
View 7 RepliesI have just replaced a fuel pump on my 98 neon and it started up and then shut off after about 5 minutes. there is electricity running to the pump just not kicking it over what could be the problem
View 9 RepliesI have a 1998 JGC. 4.0L motor. Driving it around town the motor would just shut off. Used to do it once in a while....then started happening more and more. I replaced the spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor....thinking maybe it needed a tuneup. Sometimes it restarted right away (right after it quit). Sometimes it wouldn't start until the next day.
So two days ago, daughter was driving it home from work and the motor just quit again. This time it will not restart. Motor cranks over fine. I read on this forum that this is a sign of a bad CPS....although a bad CPS will usually allow you to drive home eventually. So I replaced the CPS. Cranked it over....no change. Now, to check for spark and fuel. I turn on the ignition...I hear the fuel pump in the tank going. Then I pull the coil wire (brand new since I replaced all wires)...and put a spark plug on it....crank the motor....and NO spark. I then pull the wire harness that feeds the coil. It's a 2-prong plug. I turn on the key and nothing showing on the voltmeter.
I then put the volt meter on the battery and it reads fine. So I follow the coil harness connector back...and it just goes into the main engine harness. I then put the OBDII reader to the port in the Jeep and turned on the ignition. I get "Link Error".....so it's not getting a read, but the cigarette light is working...so the port is fine. So no spark to the coil harness and the Link Error does this mean a bad ECM (computer)? Also note that the fuel gauge (and maybe other gauges) are not registering when the ignition is turned on. The check engine light is not on. Maybe security system? I thought a security system failure would turn off spark AND fuel....but I hear the fuel pump running.
1999 gmc suburban shut off no start next morning will crank then act's like it loads (cranks hard for a second then back to normal) has good spark has a fuel vapor out of exhaust but will not fire.
What I've checked
Spark on every plug. Good and new
When I pulled the plugs they were wet with gas
Distributor turns new cap & rotor
Checked time manually (TDC looked at distributor rotor Pointing cylinder at # 1 cylinder
Will check fuel pressure when I get home
My 98 Yukon won't turnover. There is power to everything, but when I turn the key nothing happens. What's wrong?
View 3 RepliesI went to check the oil this morning , and pulled the hood release inside the truck and I think the cable broke. I can't get the hood open at all, and now I'm afraid to drive the truck, fearing the hood might fly up as I go down the mountain pass I live on. How do I repair this and get the hood open?
I tried pulling cable and pushing on hood wont work.
I am currently having an issue with my 2003 Yukon XL. Randomly, but mostly associated with hot outside air temps or while pulling our camper the truck will just shut off. Almost like we turned off the ignition. We don't get any sputtering or misfiring, nor does the CE light come on. After about 3-5 min we can start the truck up and keep on going. On the hot days it may do it a few more times but on others it wont do it again for weeks. I recently had it looked at and the mechanic thought it was a fuel pump. But after finding out the cost of the repair I did some investigating and found other people have had this problem. They to were told it was a fuel pump. However after it was replaced they still have had the problem.
View 9 RepliesRecently, my 2007 Prius will make a "BEEP" when I press the POWER button to shut down the vehicle. This doesn't happen all the time, but only 1 out of 25 times or so. Other than the beep, I can't seem to figure out what's wrong. Everything seems to work as normal.
View 4 RepliesSometimes my door chime will elert when I shut my car off (push button start ignition) and I notice the flashing key on the dash flashes yellow. It doesn't happen all the time however. Is this a sign that my key fob battery needs replacement?
2012 V6 Camry owner
I have an 05 escape xls 4cyl that has started acting up in the past 2 weeks. The vehicle has 52k on the clock and has no other issues but what im posting about.
Heres the problem: Vehicle starts fine every time you turn the key. It does not stall or idle rough when engaging the trans mission so I've concluded it has nothing to do with the torque converter. Once the car is running the vehicle will shut off randomly with the THEFT light coming on. I played with it for about 2 hours and have found that it will do this idling in Park, while in Reverse, and while in drive. The vehicle also will shut off while I am going down the road and every time it does the THEFT light is coming on as the problem starts. It does appear that it only happens when the accelerator is not depressed and will sometimes stay running if you hit the Gas Pedal as soon as it starts to happen.
I have tried using another key figuring maybe a transponder is bad...No dice does the exact same thing. I have also noted that i do hear single quiet (tock) when the vehicle shuts off coming from the drivers side lower engine compartment.
The horn on the vehicle is not working. The fuse and relay have both been tested and replaced. The horn itself does work when connected in an alternate method. Trying to find wiring from steering column to horn to determine issue. Any wiring diagram that shows color of horn wire from steering column and route it takes
View 1 RepliesI have a 2011 Toyota tacoma with 35k miles. Yesterday while driving at about 70-75mph on the freeway with no warning the vehicle shut down and the engine light came on. It made a clunk about the the time it shut off, it wasn't very loud but I could feel it. I'n not sure if that noise was just the vehicle powering down or transmission kicking from the change in torque? I pulled off the freeway, there were no fluids leaking, serpentine belt was in place. The truck will turn over but not start. The check engine light flashes rapidly.
View 1 RepliesParked my truck and headlights wont shut off on there own like normally do after few seconds. That is the only issue with my vsm. Or maybe I have a gem? should i replace it now or wait. Also where to buy one if I need one?
View 7 RepliesI have a 1998 Plymouth Neon that will start after it has cooled completely, and be fine through out the day, but when I get home from school and I start it again, it makes a strange screeching noise, and after turning off the engine and trying to restart the car, the vehicle will not start again, but all of the lights work, the battery is fine, the alternator is okay, the starter is a brand new OEM part, new ignition coil, new spark plugs, new safety neutral switch, new speed sensor, new battery cables, new camshaft position sensor, the only extra thing it does have is fog lights that were not put in by the dealership, this was done when my uncle still owned this car back in 1999. The only other problem that it has is an Error code of P1899 (Safety/Neutral Switch Stuck) and at times when turning the steering wheel, it will make a screeching noise halfway turned until you let go a bit, and then it is able to completely be turned either way, and one last thing is that the speedometer was a bit erratic one time, while I was driving home on the freeway.
View 10 RepliesLike the title says my 98 stang will not start when the engine is hot. It starts perfectly when the engine is cold. When the engine is at normal operating temp the starter cranks like normal but the engine will not catch. If i give it a little gas while cranking it the engine will start until i take my foot off the gas then it shuts down. after i leave the car for about and hour it will start. I have new plugs, wires, alternator, fuel filter, air filter and my last oil change was three weeks ago. the battery holds a good 12.6v, I had the timing fixed in june. I jumped the fuel pump relay and there is good pressure up to the fuel filter.
View 2 RepliesI drove my 1998 VW passat to work last week, a day after changing spark plugs, fuel and oil filter, and engine oil. After work, the car refused to spark. Had to leave it overnight. Till today, the vehicle has refused to spark even though my electricians keep telling everything seems to be ok. The latest I was told was that the engine has lost pressure. What does that mean and what is the possible remedy?
View 4 Replieswas driving my 98 s10 2.2 auto shut it off wouldnt start found ign fuse blown replaced it blem again found the harness on manifold burnt i replaced all bad wires now wheni put fuse back in it tries to start even with key out turn key on replace fuse will start but keeps trying to start what did i do wrong or what to do
View 18 RepliesMy 1998 Acura RL just shut off while entering the garage. The engine shut off, and the battery and engine lights remained on. An attempt to restart the car without taking the key out of the ignition did not work (no sound). Taking the key out of the ignition and restarting it worked like normal.
Occasionally the car makes a loud sound right after starting, which resembled a cross between a honk and a grinding sound. I'm not sure if this is related.
I would rather the car not stop mid-drive on a busy street or the highway.
I took my 2008 Prius to Jiffy Lube to have oil changed. When driving away, I made it about one block and all warning lights came on: Master Warning, Hybrid System Warning, Brake System Warning, Malfunction, etc. I pulled the car over and stopped. I started the car again, lights still there - drove 2 blocks back to Jiffy Lube and lost momentum about one block away, with pedal to floor, I could drive about 5 miles an hour into the bay. They looked at it for about 30 minutes and claimed I had bird seed that dropped under the air filter.... I said "goodbye" called AAA and had it towed to my dealer. They said it was because air had entered the system due to my being low on fuel. I have never heard of being low on fuel and it causing the car to shut down nor did I ever get a warning of low gas, still on one bar. Each time I restarted the car at Jiffy Lube, it started fine, drove forward or backward, then lost momentum again. Still no warning of being out of gas. The ticket from the dealer states:
"Vehicle low on fuel causing ECU to shut down fuel injectors when engine started to misfire. Found codes P0A0F, P3190 in system. Added 5 gallons of fuel and reset ECU."
My 98' 1.8t AEB was having a bad valve tick so i took the valve cover off and noticed the top camshaft had a lobe eaten away pretty bad and it looks like the bearing next to it was spinning I KNOW that its from a lack of lubrication so that means its my oil pump? there was absolutely no sludge or swarf that i could see.
what made me take the valve cover off was a small oil leak and i thought it was the gasket, but my PCV valve slipped out of its sleeve so thats where the oil came from.
also, every time i started my car the oil would come on right away, beep three times, and blink until i shut the car off.
So, i guess i am wondering, do i have deeper problems here or could i replace the cams, bearings and oil pump?