Yukon :: 1998 Hood Released Inside The Truck, Broke The Cable
Jan 21, 2013
I went to check the oil this morning , and pulled the hood release inside the truck and I think the cable broke. I can't get the hood open at all, and now I'm afraid to drive the truck, fearing the hood might fly up as I go down the mountain pass I live on. How do I repair this and get the hood open?
I tried pulling cable and pushing on hood wont work.
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went out after checking out the cheap mod thread (to see what I can mess with), went to pop the hood and nothing happened. I've looked all over vortex and I cant find anything.
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How to manage to open the hood when it wont "pop" from inside the cabin. There is not enough tension on the cable and seems as though either the cable has been stretched or either came off or broke its retainer under the hood... I noticed "TSB"s but to be honest I dont know what these really are or how they matter...
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So in order to get my hood to open, I have to pull the hood release lever in the cab, go pull up on the hood itself, then pull the release lever again, and pull on the hood to get it to finally pop. Is this a cable perhaps going bad? Or another issue I need to fix?
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In the process of selling my mk4 gti 12V, anyways. this morning while taking pics I went to pop the hood and the lever (one by the pedals in car) felt really lose and it didn't pop the hood. I'm assuming the cable either broke or disconnected, oddly enough it was working fine last night. Is there a way to get the hood open without the lever? I know my way around a car, just have never encountered this problem...
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My son's 2007 Honda Civic coupe hood won't open. There's no resistance when pulling the hood release. Either the cable is broken or disconnected from the latch.
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My battery went flat and to compound my misery, when I went to open the hood, the cable was snapped. How I can open the hood without using the release cable ? I'd rather not have to pay for it to be taken to the mechanic and then also pay to have the battery changed !
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My 98 Yukon won't turnover. There is power to everything, but when I turn the key nothing happens. What's wrong?
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I have a 98 yukon w/ 5.7. Was driving the other day and it killed. Restarted with no problem. Happened again the next day but this time would not start. Upon getting it home to check it out i tested the vehicle wire for the fuel pump with a test light and get nothing from the wires (the key was turned ). Tested all fuses and they are good. So now I'm stuck....
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I have an Explorer with automatic A/C. The blend door actuator broke (a gear inside) so I replace it with a Dorman part (could not find the Ford ones anywhere). Part #604-202, looks identical and fits. But... doesn't work.
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1998 Mazda B2500. Timing belt broke while driving. How likely is it that my valves are warped & how do I fix it?
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I replaced a battery on a 1998 jeep grand Cherokee v6. It started and ran fine, but then in my infinite wisdom, I decided to remove the negative battery cable with the engine running to test the alternator. Some smoke started coming from the back of the engine, so I immediately killed it. It wasn't running for more than 5 seconds. When I started it again, it faltered, but the second time it started fine and ran fine, a little more smoke came out but stopped soon. it smelled like burning oil. We drove it around the block with no problems. I know it wasn't the alternator that was smoking because that's not where it was coming from, and I doubt it was the ecu because then it wouldn't run.
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I picked up a new CSG GTI, 6speed with Xenon and Bluetooth on Thursday. Yesterday evening when I got home from work I opened the hood to make sure everything was cool I guess. Then this morning I was going to open it again, and the release inside the car is loose, like it's hardly attached to anything.
MKVI? I know it's probably a cable issue, but it sucks to have to drive back 50 miles to the dealer, 2 days after buying it, because the hood won't open.
Pic: ........
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When I hook my battery cable up to my battery when negative cable my truck automatically starts turning over without the key in it what could be the problem
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My truck broke down on the freeway last night. I heard a cracking noise (metal breaking) and it sounded like a backfire. The engine was running fine, good RPM's. I rev it up and the noise got worse, It sounds like a bad lawn mower or go cart. I was also smelling raw fuel.
Could I have broken a exhaust flange or the manifold? It sounds like the exhaust is bad and not burning the fuel.
There were no codes or a check engine light. I only went 1/2 mile after it broke down. I had to tow it to a local shop.
It's a 2003 4.6 with 205,000 miles.
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I have a 98 Ranger 3.0 with a standard transmission. The truck has 240,500 miles so far. It runs just as good as the day I got it 11 years ago, doesn't use any oil and still gets 23 MPG. Last fall, it developed what sounds like an exhaust leak under the hood. It seems to be coming from the area of the EGR valve. The trouble is that I can't feel it or smell it. I have carefully felt the entire length of the tube running from the EGR to the exhaust manifold and cannot feel any leaks. There is no soot or any other evidence of an exhaust leak.
The noise isn't there for the first minute or so that the truck is running. I would think that if I had a cracked manifold or some other such leak, it would be worse when the engine is cold but this is not the case for me. It is most noticeable when pulling a hill as slow speeds in a higher gear. I have checked for codes (no CEL) and there are none. When I first heard it I figured that I would wait until it gets a little worse and I would be able to find it. Its been been over 8 months now it has remained the same.
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1998 ranger 5spd... I have 117k miles on this little ranger and I recently took it on a little trip and since that trip it has a ticking noise under the hood as if the lifters were sticking. I believe it has hydrolic lifters in it. I put some sea foam in it 200 miles ago and changed the oil about 50 miles ago. I used Valvoline full synthetic and it seems like it has lessened the tick and it drives a lot smoother, in my opinion. Is there any thing else I can do to relieve that ticking? It is more noticeable when the engine first starts and is louder if i push down harder on the gas. It is not preset if i do not put that much pressure on the gas.
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My friend has a 98 ranger that has a lose connection on fuel relay under the hood, Hit a bad bump truck dies, Pop hood wiggle wire and your good till next bump. This got real old real quick. How this connection is made, Is it soldered?
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