Yukon :: 02 - Dome Light Fuse Keeps Blowing And No Interior Light Working
Oct 1, 2012
Every time I replace the fuse(under the hood) it blows almost immediately and no interior light work. When on all doors and overhead lights do work so I don't believe it's one of them shorting. Even tried bigger fuse.
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I got Corolla 2012. Dome light fuse 10 amp is blowing off as soon as you put it in. Light bulbs checked seems it is not a problem. Maybe relay?
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Short, the dome and interior light fuse keeps blowing. Car is 2009 hyundai sonata nf. Is the bcm computer gone? The fuse pops as soon as i put a fuse in the car. The car can be off or on..it doesn't matter.
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The dome light/under hood light keeps blowing the fuse. I can't tear the entire interior out to try and chase down the short. Just wondering if any common area this circuit shorts out!
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I have a weird problem. My recently installed stereo (aftermarket) is not working. There is a red light on the main dial that indicates that it is "off", but it will not turn on. Nothing is displayed on the main stereo panel, hiting power doesn't work, no turning on the various modes: only the weird red ring. The dome light still works, as do the map lights. Which fuse should I be looking at? Or is it an inline fuse gone just badly enough that it can power the "off" light but not the actual stereo?
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The power locks started locking themselves randomly while I'm driving. First, the CARGO DOOR AJAR warning light comes on, then the locks click. They don't unlock, just lock. I've hit the unlock button, then they lock by themselves again. The dome light was also coming on, until I pressed the DOME LIGHT OVERRIDE button.
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Anyways I have a 2006 F350 6.0 and a couple weeks ago I have been having issues with my running lights. In the fuse box under the dash fuse location 17 blows as soon as I insert the fuse leaving me with a short somewhere, no instrument cluster lights (but the instrument cluster gauges work and operate fine), and no running lights on the truck. I have been looking for hours and days and can't seem to locate this short (which I am assuming it is).
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2001 Passat 1.8T ... The switch is in the correct position and the light comes on when the passenger door is opened. What causes the light to activate? I cannot find a switch anywhere on the door frame. Maybe a magnetic switch in the door?
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I know this has been beaten to death for years, but I can't find anything to my specific problem. My dome light stays on but rest of my interior/running board lights will go off after 30 seconds on my 2000 Excursion 2wd with V10.
When I got truck it had the door ajar light on which I fixed with the WD40 trick. Then I realized I had no dome light up front - pulled off the cover and there were no bulbs. Replaced the bulbs but couldn't get the lights to go out. All the other interior lights would go off.
I've swapped relays, checked the fuses, used the WD40, and I've made sure dimmer switch wasn't all the way up. Only thing I can see is that passenger side bulb "foil" power thing for that dome light bulb is torn so that bulb won't work.
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I recently purchased a 2007 Honda Fit and everything is good except for one thing. The headlights, interior dome light, and one light on the climate control dashboard pulse when the engine is on. The brightness pulses to be exact, and it becomes more intense at higher speeds, and when the car is in gear and not in neutral (this is a manual stick). It is not noticeable during the day, but a pain at night.
I took it in to get looked at and two different mechanics (including a Honda dealership) said they cannot figure out what is wrong with it. They tested the battery, alternator and voltage regulator, and they all tested fine. The guy at the Honda dealership played with the wire to the battery and it got a little bit better. They said replacing the alternator (which seems to be fine) is the only fix they can think of ($650).
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I have a 2007 Hyundai Accent. The interior dome light won't turn on, the trip mileage recycles every time the car turns on, the feature that won't let the locks lock while the key is in the ignition and the car is off doesn't work (what's that called), and the dashboard clock is dead.
The visor fell off and the two wires that provided the lighting for the visor mirror touched something, and I guess, shorted everything. Is there a fuse(s) I can change or do I need some serious electrical repair?
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Have a problem with a couple electric items in my 2001 Honda CR-V. The interior dome light no longer comes on when I open any of the doors. HOWEVER, when I turn the key off, the dome light DOES come on, stays on for a few seconds or until I open any door. What causes this? Fuse? Circuit board? Short in one of the door sensors?This seemed to have started sometimes after I got it back from a body shop from a minor collision that affected the sheet metal only, did not require major mechanical fixing. The clock in the center of the dash went out... maybe at the same time, perhaps just similar time. Have not been able to confirm if it works when removed from the car.
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Recently while I was stupidly upgrading one of my dome lights while it was on (door open and yes stupid) I shorted it and blew the fuse. Of course jump in the drivers seat and go buy another fuse. To my amazement the car was dead. No power up starting, no door locks no fob operation or anything. The flashers and brake lights and horn worked fine and that was it.
What a great single point immobilizer!
Problem is you will lose clock, settings like reverse beep off, mpg, etc. I was dead in the water until I remembered in the engine fuse box there is a spare 15a fuse (and the fuse puller). The dome light fuse is there as well. Replaced the dome light fuse and all is well. Drove off like I had saved the world. Very strange. Looking at the wiring the junction block that the dome light fuse feeds also feeds LOTS of other areas of the car including the ECU.
Want to keep your kids from driving the car. Forget taking the keys. Pull the dome light fuse.
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I have a 2005 F250 with 6.0 Crew cab
Wanted to change out factory bulbs to LED's. The factories were working just fine, just wanted LED's. Broke a couple of center bulb holder's/clamp. Don't really know what they are called. Went to junk yard got a couple of used ones, those worked because when we opened the doors on wrecked trucks Dome lights came on! Got home put them in and NOTHING. No dome, no map lights with LED's. Changed back to factory bulbs and only map lights come on, NO dome lights on front or back and my 3rd brake light quit along with the 2 bed lights. Checked the wiring plug and have power to one wire. What fuses would I need to check or to check where next? Owner's manual is not very specific about which fuse.
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The fuse wont blow instantly when I install a new one, it happens after about 5-6 days.
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My 1999 Toyota Sienna DOME fuse keep blowing and don't know how to find the short. At first, it happens once in a while and I replaced the fuse for few time. Now, it happen permanently (in the way, this is good, I think) so no clock or remote control key cannot be used anymore. Where the short could be?
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My Dome lights don't work when you open the door. I can manually turn them on though. Also door ajar light is on. Are these issues caused by the door latch switch? Also have no fog lights I replaced the switch and bulbs. I have a 2003 F250.....
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I've went onto TIS and received some info in regards to the electrical components of 2002 sc430.
Fuse 19 on Passenger Box: Interior light, personal lights, vanity lights, foot lights, ignition switch light, trunk light, antenna, garage door opener system audio system.
Each time I install a new fuse, it immediately pops. Wondering how to diagnose root cause. Often it seems that wires ran through door grommet can become exposed....I have done no modifications to the vehicle. Not sure if there is a particular area I should start looking for exposed wires, I have a feeling it is going to be a long process with my skill level to find the short.
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Did a search and read the manual and I cant seem to turn of the dome lights when I open the doors. For example... Sometimes my daughter falls asleep and I want to open the door at night without the lights coming on... Or If the mosquitoes are going crazy I might want to turn off the light so I don't get killed... I know I can hold the switch to the right and it turns lights on with doors closed, and hold for a second to the left to turn off. But what about opening the door? I know my old 2007 was able to do this function...
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I bought my first Lexus, great car. 2003 GX470 with 106k. I have had one problem with the fuse for the dome light. This issue has been on going since I bought the vehicle a couple months back and I can usually fix the problem by just replacing the fuse. Now when I try to replace the fuse, the fuse sparks and blows before I can even put it into the slot. Obviously there is something going on here that won't allow the fuse to be inserted before blowing. How to rectify this issue?
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My interior lights, including mirror lights and overhead interior light keep blowing my fuse. This is the 3rd fuse that's gone in a month. I am out of warranty finally. Would it be safe to upgrade the 5 amp to a 7 or 10 amp fuse. I am not about to chase down a possible short through my headliner/dash...
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