Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: Occasionally Starts For A Brief Moment But Then Instantly Dies
Nov 6, 2015
I have a 2002 Toyota Echo that had been sitting for a few months. Recently I tried to start it and it will not start. It sounds like it is wanting to start and occasionally starts for a brief moment but then instantly dies. I have been doing some research to see what could be the problem and my guess is that pulley on the ac compressor is not turning.
My first question I guess is whether that sounds correct or could it be something that I am overlooking.
My second question is, if it is the compressor, how can I fix it. I do not want to replace the compressor, I have seen how much this can cost. I would prefer to just eliminate the ac all together. I saw a question on yahoo in a similar case where someone mentioned a bypass pulley, but I haven't been able to find any for my vehicle.
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I've had problems with rusted bolts, a remote starter with no fob, and a question on odd keys. It rattles like a lot of other Echo's, but otherwise handles as well as I can expect.
Anyway, the blower motor will, occasionally, squeal when the fan is switched on. Most of the time, it quietens down in a minute or so. This was flagged by the auto broker when I bought the car, and he did suggest having it replaced while the car was in his shop, which I declined.
The above was taken from the 2002 Echo manual.
My question is: What's the difference between the STANDARD heater, and the TWO WAY(S) flow heater? I've looked online for a replacement blower motor, and some seem to specify a 'cold weather' version. Is there any truth in this?
Is the blower motor the whole assembly (as pictured), or does the picture show the whole blower (motor) assembly, complete with the rotary fan blades?
I figure that the squealing indicates it's just the blower motor bearings(?) about to fail. I should be able to remove the whole assembly, and replace just the motor.
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When my car is still and not moving it is quiet, and the noise does not exist.
As soon as the car starts moving, the noise starts and speeds up and slows down with the speed. The noise is there when i brake or when I don't brake, so I don't believe it has anything to do with the breaks.
To me (who knows nothing about the mechanics of a car) it seems like the wheel is not sitting on the road evenly.
I took it to the Toyota service centre and they said that they found a piece of loose metal somewhere and they can't hear any noise. But the noise was still evident as soon as i got back in the car and drove off. They checked the car over, and said it's fine.
I drove my brothers brand new Rav 4 to see if perhaps I am being overly sensitive with this sound and perhaps maybe it is just the sound of the tire on the road, but his car made no such sound.
It's not overly evident. I have to point it out to people, but once they hear it, they also say that it shouldn't make that sound.
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2004 Echo........
When I use my key to unlock the car door, I can turn the key and get all the dash lights but I don't hear a sound.
When I use the remote unlock, and try the same thing, my car starts. Is this a problem with the security system?
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I have a 2003 Toyota Echo with 250,000 miles. It has been a great car as I commute 90 miles to work. I have had no major problems with the car. Unfortunatly it recently died on the way to work. It was running great and then all the sudden it sputtered and killed. When I first tried to start the car it would just turnover but after waiting 10 minutes it started back up (this was a cold morning). When it started it was running great again. I drove it another 15 minutes and it all the sudden died again. This happened 3 times.
I have hooked up to a scan tool and a camshaft position sensor code displayed. I replaced that but had no change. Another code came up as mass air flow sensor. I purchased a used one of those and still no change.
I have started the car up numerous times and always have the same results. It starts right up, idles good, speeds up good and runs good at full throttle. The problem becomes when it warms up the car kills. If I run it at idle to a slow acceleration it takes longer to kill than if I run the car at full throttle. Once it kills it will not start up until the car cools down, but once it cools down it will start right back up.
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I have a 2001 Silverado 5.3 with 145,000 miles. It runs great, lots of power and starts immediately, except for the other day. I drove to work and it was up to full operating temp, shut it off and came out 2 hours later and it cranked just fine and fired but died immediately. Repeated attemps got the same results. It would run for about 1 second and die. I tried starting it about 10 times in a row. I tried it again an hour later and its run perfect for the last 2 days, no hesitations.
The outside temp was about 65.
No check engine lite or any other lights came on.
No weird sounds.
New battery.
The fuel pump was changed out at a reputable Chevy dealership 3 years ago and about 40K. I haven't checked for any codes, or fuel pressure. It acts like a fuel pump failing, hiccups once in awhile and then leaves you stranded when you least expect it. But.....It started up instantly after sitting for an hour, meaning it had fuel waiting in the wings. I am thinking its likely electrical, a sensor? But shouldn't I be getting a light?
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Ok I finally got my truck to start, but it dies instantly. I had a friend of mine who is a mechanic look at it and he said gas wasn't filling up the front bowl, but gas was pumping? Could something have happened when the carb was rebuilt?
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When ever my car is parked on a slope for 5 min I go to drive it and the car spudders when I accelerate.. when i leave it on flat ground after its perfect again.
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My wife's 2003 Echo is sitting at 255 000 KM's (Canada) and has hardly had a days problem.However yesterday tried starting and completely dead-not battery as almost new. Ignition makes clicking noise-lights/radio etc all working.Called the BCAA ( Vancouver) the guy tapped with a pole on something in the engine and voila she started. He said something about the starter or starter solenoid-today again the car is dead. Will take it to the mechanic on Monday but how do I get it started meanwhile ? what did the BCAA guy do and what did he tap on ?
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Was looking at some new side skirts for my 4d 2000 toyota echo but mine currently has the black plastic trim going completely around it. Are these easily removed? Like, are they clipped on?
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I'm trying to remove the tail light units from my 2002 Toyota Yaris.
I've removed the central nut from the inside but the light unit won't budge. There are two other protuberances coming through the metal body work which are a plastic spigot, lower left of the metal bolt, and rubber type insert further away to the upper right.
I'm also presuming that there is some stiction with the gasket.
Even with the nut removed the outside of the unit has zero movement while the inside has a slight amount of flex.
Am I missing something?
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know the torque value for a 2009 yaris oil pan bolts? In another forum somebody quoted a value of 6.6 foot pounds, that seems too small and the wrong value to me.
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Just bought little Echo and it's blowing hot air when the ac is on if I turn the ac off with the selector in the blue it's still hot. I used the gauge off a old ac recharger can and its showing the right amount of Freon and the compressor clutch is spinning. I am really wanting to fix it cheap , since I got it for 1200.
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My car squeaks when I pull the shifter down from 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th. What is causing that?
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I am trying to find out how to disable the DRL on my 2008 yaris RS without loosing my fog lights, and if it could be possible to get the fog lights on when using the day lights.
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Back in September '12, I was on the freeway and merging quickly into the fastlane/passing lane on the freeway-- third gear, near 80mph. Going for fourth gear was a brief misshift into second that apparently happens often with cars with the 1NZ-FE.
Because of that over-rev, I've since had an annoying tick that goes with the engine revs. It's been going strong regardless for over 10,000 miles, but it's frustrating nonetheless. Compression seems fine on all cylinders, and according to a shop I'm not primed to believe, the shims for the valves are fine and these engines "always sound like that." My video begs to differ.
For those who've maybe had the same sound, what's your take? I've heard of stretched timing chains/chain slack, water pump, clutch issues, etc., but want to narrow it down.
You get the contrast here, and toward the end I nearly over-lap the shots to hear them closer together. [URL] ....
Under the hood/car. [URL] ....
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I've got error P0440 on my 2001 Echo about a week ago and cleared it, then I got it again today. It happened while driving, I was switching from 4th to 5th and the check engine lit up.
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When I turn the a/c on, sometimes the compressor engages and sometimes it does not. When it does, I feel the engine's idle change and out comes very cold air. After a few minutes or longer, no more cold air but the fan is still blowing. If I quickly turn the a/c off and then back on again this seems to jump start the compressor and poof, out comes the cool air again. Sometimes it will begin producing cool air again on its own but most of the time I have to resort to turning it off, then back on. I don't believe I have a leak because otherwise no cool air would be emitted at all or the quality of the cool air would be poor.
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I suspect that the 2006 Yaris rear hatch cylinder would work on my 2004 echo, so I got it from a u-pull. However it seems to be a bit gummed up with something, and I want to take it apart (far enough to rekey, basically).
I've got the spring clip off the back, and took out the back plate with the coil spring. I've cleaned up the metal cylinder and removed the spring at the back, but I don't know how to take the whole thing apart to clean the insides.
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I am trying to disable the drl on my gf's 2004 echo but I can't seem to find the drl relay box. its not the same as the yaris cause I tried looking after I saw a link here but where it is?
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I inherited my stepson's 2004 Echo. It's in great shape still aside from the fact it won't start. There's been a new battery, alternator and spark plugs put in recently. There are no codes coming up when I plug in the reader I have. So what is happening is that when I try to start it - it sounds like it almost wants to start but just doesn't fire up. I'm wondering if it's something to do with the fuel? There's no indicator lights that come up either.
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