Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: Washer Fluid Drip Down When Filling Reservoir Tank
Apr 22, 2015
So I just got new wiper blades for 2001 Toyota Echo, and started to fill the washer reservoir tank when I immediately heard it drip down underneath. I accidentally filled it past the line, and after a few minutes, the bottom portion of the reservoir was still blue, so I think the leak/crack is located towards the top/neck.
But, the issue that has me a little concerned is that I also noticed that when I activate the windshield washer switch, I immediately hear fluid spraying and gushing. No fluid comes out the nozzles. I hear the pump.I don't think it happens at the pump/tank/hose area at the bottom of the tank. I think its occurring inside the fender. I see water drip down the fenderwall onto the tire and ground.
That hose seems to go from the washer fluid tank to the passenger fender and through it and alongside it and comes out near where the hood bolts to the hinge. If the hose is leaking there behind the fender, how I am supposed to access the area in question.
I understand removing the bottom splash cover will give me access to under the fluid tank. Removing the bumper would probably give me access to the tank itself? But that washer tube just rides up along the fender out of sight before it emerges out the back..so what is the proper/easy way of being able to access/route that tube..couldn't really find it in the factory manual. Would removing the fender give me access to the tube?
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This year has been a bad one for my little echo. We recently had the overflow valve of the fuel tank fixed in order to get registered. Then the a/c fixed, and then the belts and transmission fluid changed, but then it was making very funky sound when I'd brake. Getting the tires rotated/balanced seems to have worked for that.
And now this. We were on a very long and hot road trip. When I stopped for gas the oil light flickered. I put in some oil and it stopped. Got back on the freeway and right away the oil light came on solid. Pulled over and got towed home because luckily we were close enough by that time.
Our mechanic thought it was the oil sensor. He replaced it and thought it was fine. Then he noticed a funky sound, so he put it back up and put a physical gauge in there and found that it is only 9-15 psi when at idle. He's not sure what is happening. The oil pressure light is not coming on. Seems okay on the freeway. When at idle it shakes/knocks a lot, especially if the a/c is on, but the oil light is still not coming on.
He has switched to 10w40 oil, but isn't sure of what's causing this.
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I am a new driver, just realized I left my fuel cap the last time I filled up. I drove for 30 min, it was cold -8, is that dangerous, is it bad for the car ? should i take it to be checked in a garage ?
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I have 2005 ECHO with 117000 km on it. I would like to know when is the time to change brake fluid. I did some research in TOYOTA web-sites but nobody mentioned it.
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2003 echo automatic, 168,000 kms doing a routine maintenance, getting tranny fluid changed, is there a filter to change on these cars or is fluid enough.
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I just bought a 2001 Toyota Echo and wondering the procedure for checking the automatic tranny fluid. It doesn't say a word in the owner manual on how to do it. I know most vehicles you have it warmed up and check it in Park while idling.
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So I was on the highway today and all of a sudden I saw bluish color smoke coming out from the back of the car. I immediately pulled over the car and turned the engine off
When I got out of the car, I realized that the transmission fluid was leaking under the car and I think all transmission fluid got out for some reason
This is a 2009 Auto 1.6 engine toyota yaris in the USA. I bought the car with a clean car fax. but later on I learned that the transmission has been replaced. I bought the car on 2010 and when I bought, it had 16K miles now it has 60K miles. Bought it for 10K+tax.
Do you think my transmission is gone or is it just leaking? There were no problems no noise no low performance of any kind. How much would it cost to replace? or should I get a rebuild one? My mechanic friend checked the transmission and said I need a new one.
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I have a 2000 echo that recently will not allow me to fill the gas tank unless I do it very slowly. Otherwise it continually trips the pump nozzle.
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I currently have summer washer fluid in my 2003 Toyota Echo's windshield washer fluid tank. I need to replace this with winter washer fluid within the next few days before the temperature goes below freezing.
When I pop open the hood, I see that the bottle is located on the left hand side of the engine bay. The bottle has a black cap with a picture of a fountain (wiper spray).
I have no experience working on the mechanics of a car. However, I would like to know the easiest way of replacing my summer wiper fluid with winter wiper fluid. The tank is currently full with the summer washer fluid.
a) How do I go about emptying the bottle completely without removing it?
b) If I need to remove the bottle and then empty it completely, how do I do this and what tools do I need?
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When ever my car is parked on a slope for 5 min I go to drive it and the car spudders when I accelerate.. when i leave it on flat ground after its perfect again.
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My wife's 2003 Echo is sitting at 255 000 KM's (Canada) and has hardly had a days problem.However yesterday tried starting and completely dead-not battery as almost new. Ignition makes clicking noise-lights/radio etc all working.Called the BCAA ( Vancouver) the guy tapped with a pole on something in the engine and voila she started. He said something about the starter or starter solenoid-today again the car is dead. Will take it to the mechanic on Monday but how do I get it started meanwhile ? what did the BCAA guy do and what did he tap on ?
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Was looking at some new side skirts for my 4d 2000 toyota echo but mine currently has the black plastic trim going completely around it. Are these easily removed? Like, are they clipped on?
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I'm trying to remove the tail light units from my 2002 Toyota Yaris.
I've removed the central nut from the inside but the light unit won't budge. There are two other protuberances coming through the metal body work which are a plastic spigot, lower left of the metal bolt, and rubber type insert further away to the upper right.
I'm also presuming that there is some stiction with the gasket.
Even with the nut removed the outside of the unit has zero movement while the inside has a slight amount of flex.
Am I missing something?
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know the torque value for a 2009 yaris oil pan bolts? In another forum somebody quoted a value of 6.6 foot pounds, that seems too small and the wrong value to me.
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Just bought little Echo and it's blowing hot air when the ac is on if I turn the ac off with the selector in the blue it's still hot. I used the gauge off a old ac recharger can and its showing the right amount of Freon and the compressor clutch is spinning. I am really wanting to fix it cheap , since I got it for 1200.
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My car squeaks when I pull the shifter down from 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th. What is causing that?
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I am trying to find out how to disable the DRL on my 2008 yaris RS without loosing my fog lights, and if it could be possible to get the fog lights on when using the day lights.
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Back in September '12, I was on the freeway and merging quickly into the fastlane/passing lane on the freeway-- third gear, near 80mph. Going for fourth gear was a brief misshift into second that apparently happens often with cars with the 1NZ-FE.
Because of that over-rev, I've since had an annoying tick that goes with the engine revs. It's been going strong regardless for over 10,000 miles, but it's frustrating nonetheless. Compression seems fine on all cylinders, and according to a shop I'm not primed to believe, the shims for the valves are fine and these engines "always sound like that." My video begs to differ.
For those who've maybe had the same sound, what's your take? I've heard of stretched timing chains/chain slack, water pump, clutch issues, etc., but want to narrow it down.
You get the contrast here, and toward the end I nearly over-lap the shots to hear them closer together. [URL] ....
Under the hood/car. [URL] ....
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I've got error P0440 on my 2001 Echo about a week ago and cleared it, then I got it again today. It happened while driving, I was switching from 4th to 5th and the check engine lit up.
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When I turn the a/c on, sometimes the compressor engages and sometimes it does not. When it does, I feel the engine's idle change and out comes very cold air. After a few minutes or longer, no more cold air but the fan is still blowing. If I quickly turn the a/c off and then back on again this seems to jump start the compressor and poof, out comes the cool air again. Sometimes it will begin producing cool air again on its own but most of the time I have to resort to turning it off, then back on. I don't believe I have a leak because otherwise no cool air would be emitted at all or the quality of the cool air would be poor.
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I suspect that the 2006 Yaris rear hatch cylinder would work on my 2004 echo, so I got it from a u-pull. However it seems to be a bit gummed up with something, and I want to take it apart (far enough to rekey, basically).
I've got the spring clip off the back, and took out the back plate with the coil spring. I've cleaned up the metal cylinder and removed the spring at the back, but I don't know how to take the whole thing apart to clean the insides.
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