In my 2001 Toyota Echo I have a noise in my suspension but I don't know where it is coming from. I made a video of me pushing down on the hood to produce the noise. I notice it when i turn the wheel at low speed, or even just driving at low speed. There is enough power steering fluid. The sound is a groaning, kind of like a rusty hinge.
Video with suspension noise ....
Suspension pics ....
I have a 2002 toyota echo and about 2 months ago my front left wheel came off while driving and ever since it has been making a thumping noise that is related to the wheel speed. I have replaced the front struts and brakes but the noise is still there. There is also a whirring noise. I have ruled out wheel bearings, ball joints and tie rods. I noticed vertical play in the right cv axle. It moves up and down coming from the trans and not the knuckle. Could that be the noise?
View 1 RepliesBasically, when I make a hard left turn I hear a noise out of the front right wheel area. I do not hear anything in any other condition. It sounds like something rubbing up against something else. I know that my rims are in good shape - is this an outer or inner bearing issue? Or is this something completely different?
View 2 RepliesFor the last few months, I have been chasing down steering problems. Alignment, end links, ball joints... and now, humming. Every time I take a turn that requires more than 1/4 turn of the steering wheel, the car hums. It wasn't very noticeable at first, but over the last week it has gotten much louder.
I have topped off my PS fluid and replaced my belts, but this has not solved the issue. Before I start replacing a pump and/or a steering rack.
When I turn my wheel to the right, there is a scraping noise. Like, metal on metal. The more I turn, the more intense the sound. Does not affect driving performance, but it does sound problematic. As I turn the wheel, it starts making a scrape-scrape-scrape noise. It sounds like it could be a shield or wheel bearing, but I'm really not sure.
View 1 RepliesSo on my girlfriends 2000 echo I get the classic bad wheel bearing noise/vibration on the front left (driver side) wheel. Worsens under load (right turn) and goes away when unloaded (left turn). I've replaced left side bearing, CV axle, brake rotors/pads and the noise still persists. My next thought is maybe the ball joint but humming/vibration tells me something out of rotational balance. Bearing in the transmission? I don't know. I'm stuck.
View 5 RepliesI'm getting a rubbing type of noise when i'm turn right and it sounds like a rubbing noise perhaps its a wheel bearing? how easy/hard is that to change. The noise is most notable when I'm on the highway and I'm making a left lane change or if I'm coming or going on a off ramp (left).
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 Scion XB I purchased last year. Last week the air was blowing cold in town and then blowing warm at highway speed. I took it to my mechanic who charged the system (said it was a pound low) and said he did not detect any leaks. Now suddenly it stops blowing cold altogether. Not all the time. It blows cold in the morning. Then in the afternoon when I leave work it blows hot. But I can stop the car a few miles down the road, turn the car off, start it back up, and it blows cold....
View 3 RepliesThe lights were left on and ran battery down. Tried to jump start but would not start. Installed new battery, won't start, won't turn over, no click, nothing. Lights and dash board lights work. Changed starter relay, checked/changed fuses, took starter out and tested it 4 times at Autozone. Starter is good. Checked switch under clutch, it's good. Checked ignition with voltmeter, checks good. Checked fusable links with voltmeter. Checks good. Why won't this car start! I can push it off and it runs fine, that's how I got it home. I'm getting 12 volts to the starter.
View 5 RepliesWhy would my 2009 Yaris suddenly jerk to the left while doing 60-65 mph? It would jerk hard only once, but did it 3 times within a few minutes tonight and once earlier today.
View 1 RepliesMy wife's 2003 Echo has had some persistent issues. We've replaced the right front wheel bearing 3 times now, and the driver side front once.
The current issue is steering wheel vibration. It's hardly noticeable at 40mph, but gets serious around 60mph.
Some things I noticed when I took it for a spin today:
The right front wheel makes a clunk-squeak sort of sound on rough road. It has a looser feel at those times. Sort of like an old truck. Not a peep out of the driver's side.
The steering wheel vibration is not changed by shifting to neutral (it's an automatic). The vibration increases with speed, and is rougher at 50mph coming down on a coast from 60 than it is accelerating up from 40.
The vibration is reduced with slight braking and stops with heavy braking. In turns where the weight of the car is shifted to the right side, the vibration is reduced or stops. When the weight is shifted to the left (driver) side, there is no effect or it gets worse.
Uphill seems to be worse than downhill.
The car does not drift to either side when the steering wheel is released when not vibrating, and doesn't have much wander even with the wheel vibrating.
It does not clunk or squeal when turning or braking.
The mileage is 115k.
My 2001 automatic Toyota echo speed sensor broke right in half and now the other half is stuck in the differential case (cv shaft housing) and I can not get it out. at all. I'm trying to pull it right back through the hole where it came from but it just simply won't budge. any other method of removal.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2010 Yaris 1.3 motor. Sometimes when I turn the ignition on it seems to keep wanting to start?
meaning it sounds like the starter motor isn't disengaging when the motor turns over, its been back to teh dealer twice now, someone suggested a relay?
I am taking it back again tonight for the auto sparkie to look at. The last time it did this I had to manually turn the car off to stop it turning over.
So I left my lights on because there was no warning buzzer to tell me so. This happened once before when the driver door would not turn on the dome light. I went for the door switch and it was bent. Bent it back and buzzer worked and dome light worked.This time nothing. Switch is ok. traced wire from switch and it is ok.
2000 Echo stickshift.
My car is a standard and was working fine not indication of any troubles. Stopped and pumped $20 gas. Started to drive and car starts running rough especially at low speeds. Going up hill is brutal. Engine light flash when trying to accelerate, slow getting up to speed, shudders- not a lot of power, once up to speed engine light turn off.
Press the gas to go up hill- engine light comes back on and it begins all over, it also sounds like it is not running on all cylinders.
Is there any suggestions: fuel pump, fuel injection...spark plugs and wires? Something more serious
I have a 2001 Echo sedan that was given to me. It has sat unused for several months. The radio and Acc lights worked, but the car wouldn't start and the battery would drain very quickly when not in use. It sat for a few more weeks, and then I replaced the battery, now the radio will not turn on at all (everything else is fine).
I checked all the fuses, and they are good (though, not the ones on the radio itself). I will be replacing this with an aftermarket stereo anyway, I just want to make sure it is the radio that's the problem, and not something else in the car. From reading, it seems that it could be an anti-theft function, for which a code would need to be entered to unlock the stereo, but nothing is displayed on the screen at all when the car is on, not "SAFE" nor "SEC". There may be a certain button combo I need to hold in order to bring up the code prompt, but what those are, and the ones I have tried haven't worked. The radio is just an AM/FM Model #: A51408 (image attached).
So do you think I only need the code, something else might be wrong, or the radio just coincidentally died? No mention of a code is made in the manual.
I just got a 2000 toyota echo from my dad and it is having a strange problem when i turn on the windshield wipers the front two lights for like the parking lights come on and i have replace the wiper motor and it still does it and I also checked my ground wires good this be a pitched wire or the switch going bad ...
View 2 RepliesYesterday I replaced what I thought was a bad front passenger wheel bearing, I removed the hub myself and took the hub to a local dealer to press out the old bearing and press in the new one.
Took the part back to the shop, got everything all assembled and took it out for a test drive. Right away I notice I still here the same noise, possibly even worse then before.
It was already late in the day so I decided to clean up and call it a day. During my trip home I notice everytime I turned the wheel to the left I here a horrible grinding noise, I did not have this sound before changing the wheel bearing.
Second guessing my own work, I took the car to the mechanic down the road today, not the same place that pressed the new bearing in. The mechanic inspected my work and couldn't find any problems at all. Even the ball joint I thought I had ruined was fine.
He inspected both from wheels for play, no play in either wheel. He then put the car up on the hoist while I remained in the car turning the wheel and accelerating. We were not able to reproduce the sound with the vehicle on the hoist, even with his stethoscope he could not here any noise coming from bearings on either front wheel. Everything sounds great with the car in the air, it's just when it's on the ground when there are problems.
Rotated all tire just to make sure it wasn't an oddly loud broken tire belt, once again no change.
I did replace the stabilizer link kit as well since the old one broke while during the wheel bearing replacement. Is there anyway I could have done something wrong with the stabilizer link that could cause this noise? I doubt this is the case since the mechanic did have a look at it.
I'm still assuming it's the front passenger wheel bearing, but don't wan't to go replacing parts I don't need. (I put a new fuel pump in my TJ 2 weeks ago only to discover all I really needed to repair was the broken wire going to the pump )
So just to be clear my car only makes this noise when it is on the ground, when the car is in the hoist I can turn the wheel and accelerate without any noise.
2008 Yaris high pitch noise when I used heater this morning.
View 1 RepliesWhen my car is still and not moving it is quiet, and the noise does not exist.
As soon as the car starts moving, the noise starts and speeds up and slows down with the speed. The noise is there when i brake or when I don't brake, so I don't believe it has anything to do with the breaks.
To me (who knows nothing about the mechanics of a car) it seems like the wheel is not sitting on the road evenly.
I took it to the Toyota service centre and they said that they found a piece of loose metal somewhere and they can't hear any noise. But the noise was still evident as soon as i got back in the car and drove off. They checked the car over, and said it's fine.
I drove my brothers brand new Rav 4 to see if perhaps I am being overly sensitive with this sound and perhaps maybe it is just the sound of the tire on the road, but his car made no such sound.
It's not overly evident. I have to point it out to people, but once they hear it, they also say that it shouldn't make that sound.
I'm looking for a practical , reliable and economical car for work. I drive around 50-70 miles a day in new York city traffic. I'm going to look at a 2000 Toyota echo with 80k on it tomorrow. I need my next car to last me 5-10 years. I have done some research on these cars and I haven't really heard anything bad about them except for excessive road noise and wind vulnerability. Is the echo going to be the right car for my needs? Anything I should know going in to tomorrow?
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