2005 Toyota Echo Sedan. The trouble I am having is when it is damp or raining outside, the motor run real rough, stalling or missing. This is mostly at idle or lower speeds.......BUT ....... if the weather is dry, even cold and dry it runs like a charm. I have replaced plugs in the past year and the air filter as well, it has about 150km or less than 100,00 miles on it give or take.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 Toyota Echo with no sunroof.
When there is heavy rain, I end up with extremely damp carpets in the driver's side. There is also water which looks as though it has leaked from running do the driver's side of the windscreen.
I have a strong suspicion that there is a leak in the windscreen, down the driver's side or at the bottom, but are there any other locations or suggestions that could be causing the leak ?
Also, if I take it in, is it possible just to replace the seal round the windscreen, or will the whole windscreen need to be replaced ?
My right radio knob is missing. It's really annoying, where I can get a replacement?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2009 Yaris and it started acting like it was stalling out. It won't accelerate. It bogs down. Check engine light is on and when tested got a code of P0353. This means the third coil is bad. I did the check but it seemed to be ok.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2010 Yaris 1.3 motor. Sometimes when I turn the ignition on it seems to keep wanting to start?
meaning it sounds like the starter motor isn't disengaging when the motor turns over, its been back to teh dealer twice now, someone suggested a relay?
I am taking it back again tonight for the auto sparkie to look at. The last time it did this I had to manually turn the car off to stop it turning over.
I've had problems with rusted bolts, a remote starter with no fob, and a question on odd keys. It rattles like a lot of other Echo's, but otherwise handles as well as I can expect.
Anyway, the blower motor will, occasionally, squeal when the fan is switched on. Most of the time, it quietens down in a minute or so. This was flagged by the auto broker when I bought the car, and he did suggest having it replaced while the car was in his shop, which I declined.
The above was taken from the 2002 Echo manual.
My question is: What's the difference between the STANDARD heater, and the TWO WAY(S) flow heater? I've looked online for a replacement blower motor, and some seem to specify a 'cold weather' version. Is there any truth in this?
Is the blower motor the whole assembly (as pictured), or does the picture show the whole blower (motor) assembly, complete with the rotary fan blades?
I figure that the squealing indicates it's just the blower motor bearings(?) about to fail. I should be able to remove the whole assembly, and replace just the motor.
I can't get my front (passenger side) motor mount out because it's under the refrigerant line. How would I do that? There is a black, coiled "jacket" that goes around the line right before it enters the back of the radiator, can I detach it there? The line snakes all over the engine compartment and appears to be bolted onto the radiator on one end and the other end goes through a clamp and into the dash area. [URL]....................
View 5 RepliesI have a 2000 toyota echo that idles great but starts missing and backfiring at the exhaust when I press the gas in park. When I put the car into drive or reverse the idle sounds like it wants to die and sometimes dies unless I press the gas. When I drive it the car gets to about 10mph and starts missing and backfiring at the exhaust. So far I've removed the coils one at a time while car running and noticed a difference. I've removed each of the injector wires while running and noticed a difference. replaced plugs and replaced the pcv valve replaced fuel filter and ran car with external fuel pump. I'm at a loss at what direction to go next. this all started around the time my alternator died and I replaced it.
View 1 RepliesHow to change a 2003 toyota echo blower motor.... Looking for a step by step directions ....
View 2 RepliesThe other day my 2000 Echo started missing, she would run fine until after about 5 mins. After that, it would run like it was only running on two or 3 cylinders so I took her to Auto Zone for a code check--it came back with p1315,p0141 & p0304. On the way home it really got bad! She started dying on me. Just like u turned the key off. Before coming to a complete rest I turned the key all the way off and back on and she ran for 30 seconds or so - You would have to turn her all the way off--back 2 clicks--one click back would not work and this is the way I got her back home--about 7 miles turning her on and off. I wish now I had not hooked her up to there code checker because I think it burnt something out.
View 6 Replies I've always find solution to solve my little issues with my Toyota Echo 2004 Hatchback. Since last summer, my car seems to have a lot of problems to idle well with the fine rpm. Here are all the events :
-it all started last summer, when the motor would start to idle really high for a couple of minutes, before getting back to normal. When this happened, a p011 check engine would light up. I switched to synthetic oil, and it greatly reduce the number of time this happen, but it didn't solve it entirely. It usually happens when the motor is warm, but still not hot.
-Only once, during a long ride, I got a check engine. When I left the highway, my motor wouldn't stop idling high. stop/start the motor wouldn't change anything. I checked the check engine codes, if I remember well : p011, p016 and misfire. With a friend, we checked the crankshaft sensor, and it was really dirty, so we washed it, and it solved the problem! A few days after, I also change my spark plug because they were starting to be old.
-A few weeks ago, I started my car and it was idling high as usual to heat up faster (it is winter now). But then, the rpm suddenly drop really quickly. The rpm was really low for may be 2 seconds, and it nearly chokes, but just before it went up back to normal. Then low/high/low/high until the motor was hot. No check engine. I disconnected the battery for a few minutes, and when I reconnected it, the problem was solve. I also checked the air filter, but it wasn't dirty.
-Then, sometimes when I start my car, idling is fine but suddenly at a red light the motor start to run really low with a lot of vibrations and a bad smell. Stop and restart the motor solve the problem! But only until the next red light, or until the motor is warm enough. Still no check engine.
When ever my car is parked on a slope for 5 min I go to drive it and the car spudders when I accelerate.. when i leave it on flat ground after its perfect again.
View 5 RepliesMy wife's 2003 Echo is sitting at 255 000 KM's (Canada) and has hardly had a days problem.However yesterday tried starting and completely dead-not battery as almost new. Ignition makes clicking noise-lights/radio etc all working.Called the BCAA ( Vancouver) the guy tapped with a pole on something in the engine and voila she started. He said something about the starter or starter solenoid-today again the car is dead. Will take it to the mechanic on Monday but how do I get it started meanwhile ? what did the BCAA guy do and what did he tap on ?
View 2 RepliesWas looking at some new side skirts for my 4d 2000 toyota echo but mine currently has the black plastic trim going completely around it. Are these easily removed? Like, are they clipped on?
View 3 RepliesI'm trying to remove the tail light units from my 2002 Toyota Yaris.
I've removed the central nut from the inside but the light unit won't budge. There are two other protuberances coming through the metal body work which are a plastic spigot, lower left of the metal bolt, and rubber type insert further away to the upper right.
I'm also presuming that there is some stiction with the gasket.
Even with the nut removed the outside of the unit has zero movement while the inside has a slight amount of flex.
Am I missing something?
know the torque value for a 2009 yaris oil pan bolts? In another forum somebody quoted a value of 6.6 foot pounds, that seems too small and the wrong value to me.
View 3 RepliesJust bought little Echo and it's blowing hot air when the ac is on if I turn the ac off with the selector in the blue it's still hot. I used the gauge off a old ac recharger can and its showing the right amount of Freon and the compressor clutch is spinning. I am really wanting to fix it cheap , since I got it for 1200.
View 2 RepliesMy car squeaks when I pull the shifter down from 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th. What is causing that?
View 1 RepliesI am trying to find out how to disable the DRL on my 2008 yaris RS without loosing my fog lights, and if it could be possible to get the fog lights on when using the day lights.
View 1 RepliesBack in September '12, I was on the freeway and merging quickly into the fastlane/passing lane on the freeway-- third gear, near 80mph. Going for fourth gear was a brief misshift into second that apparently happens often with cars with the 1NZ-FE.
Because of that over-rev, I've since had an annoying tick that goes with the engine revs. It's been going strong regardless for over 10,000 miles, but it's frustrating nonetheless. Compression seems fine on all cylinders, and according to a shop I'm not primed to believe, the shims for the valves are fine and these engines "always sound like that." My video begs to differ.
For those who've maybe had the same sound, what's your take? I've heard of stretched timing chains/chain slack, water pump, clutch issues, etc., but want to narrow it down.
You get the contrast here, and toward the end I nearly over-lap the shots to hear them closer together. [URL] ....
Under the hood/car. [URL] ....
I've got error P0440 on my 2001 Echo about a week ago and cleared it, then I got it again today. It happened while driving, I was switching from 4th to 5th and the check engine lit up.
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