Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: Oil Light Came On Solid After Filling The Tank
Aug 15, 2015
This year has been a bad one for my little echo. We recently had the overflow valve of the fuel tank fixed in order to get registered. Then the a/c fixed, and then the belts and transmission fluid changed, but then it was making very funky sound when I'd brake. Getting the tires rotated/balanced seems to have worked for that.
And now this. We were on a very long and hot road trip. When I stopped for gas the oil light flickered. I put in some oil and it stopped. Got back on the freeway and right away the oil light came on solid. Pulled over and got towed home because luckily we were close enough by that time.
Our mechanic thought it was the oil sensor. He replaced it and thought it was fine. Then he noticed a funky sound, so he put it back up and put a physical gauge in there and found that it is only 9-15 psi when at idle. He's not sure what is happening. The oil pressure light is not coming on. Seems okay on the freeway. When at idle it shakes/knocks a lot, especially if the a/c is on, but the oil light is still not coming on.
He has switched to 10w40 oil, but isn't sure of what's causing this.
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So I just got new wiper blades for 2001 Toyota Echo, and started to fill the washer reservoir tank when I immediately heard it drip down underneath. I accidentally filled it past the line, and after a few minutes, the bottom portion of the reservoir was still blue, so I think the leak/crack is located towards the top/neck.
But, the issue that has me a little concerned is that I also noticed that when I activate the windshield washer switch, I immediately hear fluid spraying and gushing. No fluid comes out the nozzles. I hear the pump.I don't think it happens at the pump/tank/hose area at the bottom of the tank. I think its occurring inside the fender. I see water drip down the fenderwall onto the tire and ground.
That hose seems to go from the washer fluid tank to the passenger fender and through it and alongside it and comes out near where the hood bolts to the hinge. If the hose is leaking there behind the fender, how I am supposed to access the area in question.
I understand removing the bottom splash cover will give me access to under the fluid tank. Removing the bumper would probably give me access to the tank itself? But that washer tube just rides up along the fender out of sight before it emerges out the back..so what is the proper/easy way of being able to access/route that tube..couldn't really find it in the factory manual. Would removing the fender give me access to the tube?
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I am a new driver, just realized I left my fuel cap the last time I filled up. I drove for 30 min, it was cold -8, is that dangerous, is it bad for the car ? should i take it to be checked in a garage ?
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I have a 2000 echo that recently will not allow me to fill the gas tank unless I do it very slowly. Otherwise it continually trips the pump nozzle.
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I'm trying to remove the tail light units from my 2002 Toyota Yaris.
I've removed the central nut from the inside but the light unit won't budge. There are two other protuberances coming through the metal body work which are a plastic spigot, lower left of the metal bolt, and rubber type insert further away to the upper right.
I'm also presuming that there is some stiction with the gasket.
Even with the nut removed the outside of the unit has zero movement while the inside has a slight amount of flex.
Am I missing something?
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The check engine light has been going on and off for a couple of months. I took it in to be looked at and the mechanic said they couldn't get a code, couldn't get a "good read" on what was wrong. They said I could take the car back (but they couldn't give me an inspection sticker) and drive it for a couple of days and if the light comes on, take it back to them. If the light doesn't come on after a few days, they will give me the sticker. I can't believe my car is going to act any differently than it has for the last few months -- light comes on sometimes, sometimes it doesn't. Shouldn't the mechanic be able to tell what's wrong.
have a 2005 Scion with about 60,000 miles.
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I get jerky acceleration at low RPM (around 1200). It feels as the engine cuts off fuel for a blink of an eye and it does that 1-3 times. It doesn't happen when the engine is cold. It starts after cold engine warning light turns off.
Year 2000 .... Engine 1.3 vvti .... Automatic transmission .... 140k kms ....
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My Echo is giving me problems. The red thermostat light has been coming off and on for the past two months. I had the radiator, fan and thermostat replaced. It started blinking again after two days. I took it to a mechanic that tested to see if it had a head gasket blown. That wasn't the problem. The mechanic said it was the water pump. I had the water pump replaced today and drove approximately 12 miles home when the red light started blinking again.
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I have a 2000 toyota echo which just had the 3rd brake light burn out.*'m having trouble getting light fixture out to change bulb.
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I recently noticed that the airbag light of my 2001 Echo never comes on and is off all the time.
What can be the reason? Is the fuse blown?
If the fuse is blown, shouldn't there be an alarm or warning indication? I mean, because airbag is a the main safely feature in a car, shouldn't there be a warning mechanism to simply indicate that it does not work at all?
BTW, can a battery change have caused this? I changed the battery a while ago but never noticed this issue until now.
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I'm troubleshooting my sons 2000 Echo with a manual transmission. No reverse light. Very puzzling? The red wire with blue stripe in the trunk area is always hot. Makes no difference if the shifter is in reverse gear or not. Yet, the reverse lamps don't come on. I removed both bulbs and tested them at the battery using jumpers. They both come on. I have not gone under the car yet. My question is: does this car have a neutral start switch, and a back up light switch. If yes, which switch is feeding the other? Any pictures of where these switches are located? My guess is that the back up light switch is faulty, if there is one.
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I have an 07 Toyota Vitz and Side lamps, Tailgate lamps and number plate light are remaining off... Normal and bright works fine...
Checked fusses and are all good.
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Every time i put the key in the on position, the check engine light comes on, but not anymore and it wont start, wont make a clicking. Nothing What relay or fuse would this be.
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In January I had taken my car in for an oil change. About a Month later my check engine light comes on. I pull over and there is no oil cap. Why the light hadn't come on before then is beyond me. I also park on grass so didnt notice it. I took it to advanced auto to see what the code for the light was and it said that the engine was running lean. Is this connected? and if so how? I am driving a 2008 Toyota Yaris Hatchback
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So I left my lights on because there was no warning buzzer to tell me so. This happened once before when the driver door would not turn on the dome light. I went for the door switch and it was bent. Bent it back and buzzer worked and dome light worked.This time nothing. Switch is ok. traced wire from switch and it is ok.
2000 Echo stickshift.
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I just got an used Echo, and it seems that the hatch light switch is a bit sensitive. However, I couldn't find it anywhere on the frame, or near the lock. I even have access to the docs and didn't see a reference of it.
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How to reset service light after a oil change ?
I have a 2009 yaris.
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I have a 2001 Echo 5-speed that I bought it November. Loving it so far. One thing I've noticed is an electronic-like whistling sound whenever I'm applying light throttle. The sound goes away if I left off the throttle, or if I give it more gas. When I say light throttle, it's when I'm applying enough pressure to maintain maybe 1500 RPM in neutral, so not much. It's only at that specific point that I'll hear the noise, and it's in all gears and not related to vehicle speed. I've searched through the usual channels but didn't find anything related.
In the few months before I bought it the previous owner had the MAF sensor, alternator, and water pump replaced by the dealer so those components are covered under the 1 year/20k parts warranty if they may be a culprit. I'm hoping to narrow down what the problem could be before I take it in for routine service anyways.
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How do you remove a right rear 2001 Toyota echo tail light assembly?
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I have a 2007 Yaris, 180,000 miles, The check engine light comes on. With a P0011 code. I know that that could mean either:
blocked oil passage
Mechanical timing fault
Camshaft position a timing over advance
Failed OCV
Or VVT controller assembly fault
Since it's been really cold out I figured maybe it was a blocked oil passage, but after an oil change and quick check - I no longer think that's the problem.
The car runs great and it doesn't seem anything is wrong at all ...
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I have a 2008 Toyota Yaris Hatchback with only 60,000 KMs.
I have been having a lot of problems with this cars ABS and brakes. For a few months now, the ABS Light and "!" will come on and off throughout my drive to work and home. Also, sometimes when I hit the brakes it makes a LOUD grinding noise and when I'm holding down the brakes the car doesn't stop as fast, it kind of like skids. Now, I've noticed that this noise only occurs when the ABS light is OFF. When the ABS light and brake light come on, NO noise what so ever.
I've gone to multiple mechanics and replaced almost everything you can name for brakes (pads, drum, rotor, etc.). I've also tried replacing the ABS sensor wires, but still I am experiencing the same problems. It's really frustrating because the noise only happens sometimes, and of course it never makes the noise when the mechanics in the car with me.
I've made a video of the noise it makes, you can check it out here ......
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