Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: Immobilizer LED Is Out Even When Doors Are Shut And Ignition Off
Jan 30, 2014
Toyota verso 2001. Well the other night went out to car and noticed the inside lights were dim, battery was nearly flat. Now I had been out in car around 2 hours before. Recharged battery next day and car would not start.
Called brake down out. As he could not find anything wrong he tried to access the ecm. He could not connect to it. Later after he left, I checked every fuse and relay. Inc fuses on side of battery. All ok.
But the thing is the immobiliser LED is out even when the doors are shut and ignition off. So I suspect power to or the imobilizer ecu itself. I have checked ecm but that only shows engine ok. On computer. Other software I have only starts at 2004 so will not read immobilizer faults codes.
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2004 Echo........
When I use my key to unlock the car door, I can turn the key and get all the dash lights but I don't hear a sound.
When I use the remote unlock, and try the same thing, my car starts. Is this a problem with the security system?
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My wife and I had a 1995 Tercel for 15 years and loved it. We are looking to buy a 200k 2000 Echo from a neighbor (it was originally purchased in Canada). It is generally well maintained, and a one owner car, and we know the owner pretty well. There are extensive records. The engine is solid. The only problem with it is the two inches below EACH door is very rusty. It is rusted through entirely. Basically, the bottom two inches along the bottom of the door is plain missing. It is rusted out pretty badly.
The frame seems fine. The car is cheap. Up here in the cold north, the rust will only get worse.
I don't care about looks, but I do care about safety and function. Is there a safety or function issue with such a rusted car, if the frame is okay? How long can I drive the car before it ceases to function or be safe?
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I have a 2010 Yaris 1.3 motor. Sometimes when I turn the ignition on it seems to keep wanting to start?
meaning it sounds like the starter motor isn't disengaging when the motor turns over, its been back to teh dealer twice now, someone suggested a relay?
I am taking it back again tonight for the auto sparkie to look at. The last time it did this I had to manually turn the car off to stop it turning over.
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I need to know what the resistance should be on my 2002 Echo's coils. I have an intermittent sputtering problem and it's driving me nuts! I put E3 spark plugs in the car about a year ago to improve the power and economy (it was on the original plugs at 160k miles!!) and they did work a lot but not long after that the sputtering problem started.
The car does have a code for the pre-converter O2 sensor but I replaced it, cleared the code and it keeps coming back. I have not pulled the codes recently but will in the next few days.
I've also read that the fuel filter is inside the gas tank but there is an access port under the back seat. I doubt that would cause the intermittent problem but I could be wrong.
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The previous owner broke the key off in the ignition so I replace the ignition lock cylinder the problem is though even with the old one I can't turn the key to lock so it's stuck on acc. What I can try without replacing the entire column? Also it needs a catalytic converter, do I have to weld a universal one on ?
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When ever my car is parked on a slope for 5 min I go to drive it and the car spudders when I accelerate.. when i leave it on flat ground after its perfect again.
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My wife's 2003 Echo is sitting at 255 000 KM's (Canada) and has hardly had a days problem.However yesterday tried starting and completely dead-not battery as almost new. Ignition makes clicking noise-lights/radio etc all working.Called the BCAA ( Vancouver) the guy tapped with a pole on something in the engine and voila she started. He said something about the starter or starter solenoid-today again the car is dead. Will take it to the mechanic on Monday but how do I get it started meanwhile ? what did the BCAA guy do and what did he tap on ?
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Was looking at some new side skirts for my 4d 2000 toyota echo but mine currently has the black plastic trim going completely around it. Are these easily removed? Like, are they clipped on?
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I'm trying to remove the tail light units from my 2002 Toyota Yaris.
I've removed the central nut from the inside but the light unit won't budge. There are two other protuberances coming through the metal body work which are a plastic spigot, lower left of the metal bolt, and rubber type insert further away to the upper right.
I'm also presuming that there is some stiction with the gasket.
Even with the nut removed the outside of the unit has zero movement while the inside has a slight amount of flex.
Am I missing something?
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know the torque value for a 2009 yaris oil pan bolts? In another forum somebody quoted a value of 6.6 foot pounds, that seems too small and the wrong value to me.
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Just bought little Echo and it's blowing hot air when the ac is on if I turn the ac off with the selector in the blue it's still hot. I used the gauge off a old ac recharger can and its showing the right amount of Freon and the compressor clutch is spinning. I am really wanting to fix it cheap , since I got it for 1200.
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My car squeaks when I pull the shifter down from 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th. What is causing that?
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I am trying to find out how to disable the DRL on my 2008 yaris RS without loosing my fog lights, and if it could be possible to get the fog lights on when using the day lights.
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Back in September '12, I was on the freeway and merging quickly into the fastlane/passing lane on the freeway-- third gear, near 80mph. Going for fourth gear was a brief misshift into second that apparently happens often with cars with the 1NZ-FE.
Because of that over-rev, I've since had an annoying tick that goes with the engine revs. It's been going strong regardless for over 10,000 miles, but it's frustrating nonetheless. Compression seems fine on all cylinders, and according to a shop I'm not primed to believe, the shims for the valves are fine and these engines "always sound like that." My video begs to differ.
For those who've maybe had the same sound, what's your take? I've heard of stretched timing chains/chain slack, water pump, clutch issues, etc., but want to narrow it down.
You get the contrast here, and toward the end I nearly over-lap the shots to hear them closer together. [URL] ....
Under the hood/car. [URL] ....
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I've got error P0440 on my 2001 Echo about a week ago and cleared it, then I got it again today. It happened while driving, I was switching from 4th to 5th and the check engine lit up.
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When I turn the a/c on, sometimes the compressor engages and sometimes it does not. When it does, I feel the engine's idle change and out comes very cold air. After a few minutes or longer, no more cold air but the fan is still blowing. If I quickly turn the a/c off and then back on again this seems to jump start the compressor and poof, out comes the cool air again. Sometimes it will begin producing cool air again on its own but most of the time I have to resort to turning it off, then back on. I don't believe I have a leak because otherwise no cool air would be emitted at all or the quality of the cool air would be poor.
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I suspect that the 2006 Yaris rear hatch cylinder would work on my 2004 echo, so I got it from a u-pull. However it seems to be a bit gummed up with something, and I want to take it apart (far enough to rekey, basically).
I've got the spring clip off the back, and took out the back plate with the coil spring. I've cleaned up the metal cylinder and removed the spring at the back, but I don't know how to take the whole thing apart to clean the insides.
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I am trying to disable the drl on my gf's 2004 echo but I can't seem to find the drl relay box. its not the same as the yaris cause I tried looking after I saw a link here but where it is?
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I inherited my stepson's 2004 Echo. It's in great shape still aside from the fact it won't start. There's been a new battery, alternator and spark plugs put in recently. There are no codes coming up when I plug in the reader I have. So what is happening is that when I try to start it - it sounds like it almost wants to start but just doesn't fire up. I'm wondering if it's something to do with the fuel? There's no indicator lights that come up either.
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I got a 2001 Toyota Echo 1.5L that was running rough on cold start ups. Got a trouble code saying the ECT was out of range, replaced that and after firing it up it started to hunt and had a very high idle, I unplugged the Idle air control and it still continued to hunt. I smoke tested it for vacuum leaks and no leaks. After plugging and unplugging things to see what made it disappear it now stopped hunting but maintains a idle of around 2000rpm in park or neutral, in drive or reverse the idle lowers to about 900rpm.
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