Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: External Diameter Of Air Cleaner Hose?
Jun 23, 2012
2004 Echo. Looking for measurement for the external diameter of the Air Hose for me?
Tried googling, but didn't find any specs for it. Don't have access to my car at the moment (and for a while actually), but I might need to get a coupler..
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When my 2001 Echo is in drive and I am stopped, the air filter box and that whole assembly as well as the intake hose shakes and vibrates and makes a noise. It doesn't happen in neutral or park or when I start driving. Also, when I was looking at this, I could see that when the car is put into or out of gear the engine moves slightly, is this normal?
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I just bought a used 09 yaris, 5 speed manual tranny. There seems to be a small coolant leak on the top hose coming from the radiator, the one that connects to a plastic flange or adapter and then go's to the engine block. The car does not get hot and it drive fine except it leaks at that spot. I try using a regular hose clamp and still leaked. Is the thermostat not opening up or is the water pump intermittent stopping? or something like that. Or maybe the hose itself is bad. Since this is a used car who knows what the previous owner did, I might change out the hose over the weekend and replace all the coolant to the correct Toyota long life system. to be on the safe side.
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So I have a 2000 Echo with about 129k miles on it. I parked it in my driveway for the winter to drive my SUV in the snow (I live in Wisconsin).
After a couple months of the bite of the gas mileage difference I dug her out and noticed that the drivers side rear wheel was locked up. I presumed it was simply due to it sitting in snow for a long while. So I jacked up the rear, popped the tire off and WHAM, a rusted through pipe falls flat on the floor of my garage.
I trace it back to a port right behind the fuel intake - tho not the main intake line itself. I then find its other half, still connected via rubber tubing to a black hub of sorts.
Here are some pictures with a vision of what I am talking about:
The entire hose in two pieces:
The port where the hose was connected by the fuel intake:
The port on the hub where the rubber sided other half of the hose connects:
The hose pieces side by side on the trunk of the car for scale:
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When ever my car is parked on a slope for 5 min I go to drive it and the car spudders when I accelerate.. when i leave it on flat ground after its perfect again.
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My wife's 2003 Echo is sitting at 255 000 KM's (Canada) and has hardly had a days problem.However yesterday tried starting and completely dead-not battery as almost new. Ignition makes clicking noise-lights/radio etc all working.Called the BCAA ( Vancouver) the guy tapped with a pole on something in the engine and voila she started. He said something about the starter or starter solenoid-today again the car is dead. Will take it to the mechanic on Monday but how do I get it started meanwhile ? what did the BCAA guy do and what did he tap on ?
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Was looking at some new side skirts for my 4d 2000 toyota echo but mine currently has the black plastic trim going completely around it. Are these easily removed? Like, are they clipped on?
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I'm trying to remove the tail light units from my 2002 Toyota Yaris.
I've removed the central nut from the inside but the light unit won't budge. There are two other protuberances coming through the metal body work which are a plastic spigot, lower left of the metal bolt, and rubber type insert further away to the upper right.
I'm also presuming that there is some stiction with the gasket.
Even with the nut removed the outside of the unit has zero movement while the inside has a slight amount of flex.
Am I missing something?
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know the torque value for a 2009 yaris oil pan bolts? In another forum somebody quoted a value of 6.6 foot pounds, that seems too small and the wrong value to me.
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Just bought little Echo and it's blowing hot air when the ac is on if I turn the ac off with the selector in the blue it's still hot. I used the gauge off a old ac recharger can and its showing the right amount of Freon and the compressor clutch is spinning. I am really wanting to fix it cheap , since I got it for 1200.
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My car squeaks when I pull the shifter down from 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th. What is causing that?
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I am trying to find out how to disable the DRL on my 2008 yaris RS without loosing my fog lights, and if it could be possible to get the fog lights on when using the day lights.
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Back in September '12, I was on the freeway and merging quickly into the fastlane/passing lane on the freeway-- third gear, near 80mph. Going for fourth gear was a brief misshift into second that apparently happens often with cars with the 1NZ-FE.
Because of that over-rev, I've since had an annoying tick that goes with the engine revs. It's been going strong regardless for over 10,000 miles, but it's frustrating nonetheless. Compression seems fine on all cylinders, and according to a shop I'm not primed to believe, the shims for the valves are fine and these engines "always sound like that." My video begs to differ.
For those who've maybe had the same sound, what's your take? I've heard of stretched timing chains/chain slack, water pump, clutch issues, etc., but want to narrow it down.
You get the contrast here, and toward the end I nearly over-lap the shots to hear them closer together. [URL] ....
Under the hood/car. [URL] ....
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I've got error P0440 on my 2001 Echo about a week ago and cleared it, then I got it again today. It happened while driving, I was switching from 4th to 5th and the check engine lit up.
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When I turn the a/c on, sometimes the compressor engages and sometimes it does not. When it does, I feel the engine's idle change and out comes very cold air. After a few minutes or longer, no more cold air but the fan is still blowing. If I quickly turn the a/c off and then back on again this seems to jump start the compressor and poof, out comes the cool air again. Sometimes it will begin producing cool air again on its own but most of the time I have to resort to turning it off, then back on. I don't believe I have a leak because otherwise no cool air would be emitted at all or the quality of the cool air would be poor.
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I suspect that the 2006 Yaris rear hatch cylinder would work on my 2004 echo, so I got it from a u-pull. However it seems to be a bit gummed up with something, and I want to take it apart (far enough to rekey, basically).
I've got the spring clip off the back, and took out the back plate with the coil spring. I've cleaned up the metal cylinder and removed the spring at the back, but I don't know how to take the whole thing apart to clean the insides.
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I am trying to disable the drl on my gf's 2004 echo but I can't seem to find the drl relay box. its not the same as the yaris cause I tried looking after I saw a link here but where it is?
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I inherited my stepson's 2004 Echo. It's in great shape still aside from the fact it won't start. There's been a new battery, alternator and spark plugs put in recently. There are no codes coming up when I plug in the reader I have. So what is happening is that when I try to start it - it sounds like it almost wants to start but just doesn't fire up. I'm wondering if it's something to do with the fuel? There's no indicator lights that come up either.
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I got a 2001 Toyota Echo 1.5L that was running rough on cold start ups. Got a trouble code saying the ECT was out of range, replaced that and after firing it up it started to hunt and had a very high idle, I unplugged the Idle air control and it still continued to hunt. I smoke tested it for vacuum leaks and no leaks. After plugging and unplugging things to see what made it disappear it now stopped hunting but maintains a idle of around 2000rpm in park or neutral, in drive or reverse the idle lowers to about 900rpm.
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I have a problem with the air conditioning. It stops working when the car is in idle or driving below 40kl.
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The check engine light has been going on and off for a couple of months. I took it in to be looked at and the mechanic said they couldn't get a code, couldn't get a "good read" on what was wrong. They said I could take the car back (but they couldn't give me an inspection sticker) and drive it for a couple of days and if the light comes on, take it back to them. If the light doesn't come on after a few days, they will give me the sticker. I can't believe my car is going to act any differently than it has for the last few months -- light comes on sometimes, sometimes it doesn't. Shouldn't the mechanic be able to tell what's wrong.
have a 2005 Scion with about 60,000 miles.
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