Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: Echo - Red Thermostat Light Coming On And Off
Apr 11, 2013
My Echo is giving me problems. The red thermostat light has been coming off and on for the past two months. I had the radiator, fan and thermostat replaced. It started blinking again after two days. I took it to a mechanic that tested to see if it had a head gasket blown. That wasn't the problem. The mechanic said it was the water pump. I had the water pump replaced today and drove approximately 12 miles home when the red light started blinking again.
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I recently noticed that the airbag light of my 2001 Echo never comes on and is off all the time.
What can be the reason? Is the fuse blown?
If the fuse is blown, shouldn't there be an alarm or warning indication? I mean, because airbag is a the main safely feature in a car, shouldn't there be a warning mechanism to simply indicate that it does not work at all?
BTW, can a battery change have caused this? I changed the battery a while ago but never noticed this issue until now.
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I'm troubleshooting my sons 2000 Echo with a manual transmission. No reverse light. Very puzzling? The red wire with blue stripe in the trunk area is always hot. Makes no difference if the shifter is in reverse gear or not. Yet, the reverse lamps don't come on. I removed both bulbs and tested them at the battery using jumpers. They both come on. I have not gone under the car yet. My question is: does this car have a neutral start switch, and a back up light switch. If yes, which switch is feeding the other? Any pictures of where these switches are located? My guess is that the back up light switch is faulty, if there is one.
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I have a 2000 Echo, Automatic, and I have a grinding sound that appears to be coming from the passenger side of the vehicle, under the hood. I had my A/C replaced, and new drive and power steering belts put in, 1,400 miles ago. I have noticed the sound is bad in park or neutral, seems to quiet down if I put it in Drive or Reverse while the engine is cool, and is particularly bad at highway speeds. I live 10 miles from my mechanic, on a highway, and am hesitant to drive it to them as it is all highway or rural roads (45 mph plus).
I drove it about 15 miles from when sound started (barely noticeable) to when I stopped and had it towed home. Belt deflection appears to be only about .3 in, manual I have calls for .43 to .51, but I may not be measuring it right....
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How do you remove a right rear 2001 Toyota echo tail light assembly?
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Recently changed a front pipe manifold on my Echo 2003 4doors Five spd.
Noise I was reporting ealier thread seems to have subsided somehow but I did not hit the high road again, since the repair.
But I have this check engine light that went off 3 days ago and stays on.
Tried 4 times to read the code of OBd II reader and it pulls nothing. As if everything was normal.
I changed the batteries but it acts like it does regularly and it shows like there is no code to pull out.
Could that be a Ghostly Check Engine. It is still on at the moment meaning every time I drive the car.
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My great 2001 Echo is acting up for the first time in 11yrs!.. This weekend I decided to have my mechanic change the manual transmission fluid and do a general inspection of the vehicle. He found nothing wrong. I decided that before embarking on a long trip, that I would change the oil/filter, flush the radiator and put new antifreeze, change the airfilter, replace the alternator belt, added a small bottle of Lucas complete fuel system and a new battery.
I was proud of my DIY performance except that the next day the engine light came on! I took it to AutoZone where I purchase all the supplies and battery and they came up with CODE P1349 which I researched and found out about VVT(variable valve timing) malfunction. Some of the reasons for this malfunction are: low fuel pressure due to clogged or bad injectors..... Fuel pump regulator....camshaft malfunction or ECU (engine control unit) problem.
1.This morning the light was off then ten or fifteen minutes later it went on and at the same time the iddle got much faster for about two or three minutes, (in other words the engine was running faster even when I took my foot off the accelerator) and then came back to normal.
2. Later on the light was off again followed by the same sequence of events. Then at one point later I could tell that the the engine was running fast again for a couple of minutes.
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It's not the bulb or the fuse, but my wife's driver's side brake light is out (only the stop light portion). Where should I look next?
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I just got my wife a 2000 Echo with 224,000kms on the odo. Everything appears to be fine other than a mystery rattling noise under light acceleration. If I were to describe it, it sounds as if a box of rocks were to be shaken around. Or like a rattling loose chain... <------ definitely hope it's not that!
From a search, it seems like others have encountered this strange noise but have not reach what the cause is.
From what I gather, the timing chains on these motors are literally never touched and should last the life of the vehicle.
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First owner, 192000 miles. Check engine light came on during last winter, I put fuel injector cleaner with gas and it went away for a while. It came back on, if i reset, I can drive for about 50 miles before it comes back on line. Also, may be two or three times a week, when moving after a stop, the vehicle stalls, i have to take the feet of the gas pedal and give gas again.
I called up the dealer asking for fuel filter and fuel injector parts prices. Fuel filter is in the gas tank and not meant to be replaced. The fuel injector I was told 4 x $155 each. For diagnostics they need $100
See attached, I was able to clean sensor 1. I could not unscrew sensor 2, the screw is rusted, plus there is no room to get a longer screw driver and turn.
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I just bought this car, had front brakes put on, rotors. I have noticed with stop and go in traffic that the engine revs and I have to hold the car back. Also when I release the brake there is like a light click or thump. Sometimes it makes the small sound when I put the brake on.
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My car is a standard and was working fine not indication of any troubles. Stopped and pumped $20 gas. Started to drive and car starts running rough especially at low speeds. Going up hill is brutal. Engine light flash when trying to accelerate, slow getting up to speed, shudders- not a lot of power, once up to speed engine light turn off.
Press the gas to go up hill- engine light comes back on and it begins all over, it also sounds like it is not running on all cylinders.
Is there any suggestions: fuel pump, fuel injection...spark plugs and wires? Something more serious
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My wife's 2003 Echo is sitting at 255 000 KM's (Canada) and has hardly had a days problem.However yesterday tried starting and completely dead-not battery as almost new. Ignition makes clicking noise-lights/radio etc all working.Called the BCAA ( Vancouver) the guy tapped with a pole on something in the engine and voila she started. He said something about the starter or starter solenoid-today again the car is dead. Will take it to the mechanic on Monday but how do I get it started meanwhile ? what did the BCAA guy do and what did he tap on ?
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Was looking at some new side skirts for my 4d 2000 toyota echo but mine currently has the black plastic trim going completely around it. Are these easily removed? Like, are they clipped on?
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Just bought little Echo and it's blowing hot air when the ac is on if I turn the ac off with the selector in the blue it's still hot. I used the gauge off a old ac recharger can and its showing the right amount of Freon and the compressor clutch is spinning. I am really wanting to fix it cheap , since I got it for 1200.
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I am trying to disable the drl on my gf's 2004 echo but I can't seem to find the drl relay box. its not the same as the yaris cause I tried looking after I saw a link here but where it is?
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I inherited my stepson's 2004 Echo. It's in great shape still aside from the fact it won't start. There's been a new battery, alternator and spark plugs put in recently. There are no codes coming up when I plug in the reader I have. So what is happening is that when I try to start it - it sounds like it almost wants to start but just doesn't fire up. I'm wondering if it's something to do with the fuel? There's no indicator lights that come up either.
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how to remove the headlights from an '02 echo? I'm trying to paint the headlight bezel, and can't seem to get the headlights out.
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I have a 2003 automatic Echo, 200 000KM. I was on the highway with the A/C ON and i suddenly noticed it started blowing warm air(because it was a hot day). I was a bit on a rush so i decided to just roll down the windows and keep on. Once i was on a red light, i noticed i could hear a sound, coming from the straps(wich seemed logic to me since the A/C stopped) The sound was a kind of continuous screeching. It also smelled a liitle bit like burnt plastic or rubber. So i stopped the car, check under the hood, saw nothing, so I decided to start it again. After like 50m, it stopped by itself, and now i can't start it. I even tried to jump start it with a buddy's car and nothing changed! I still have some battery, everything works, but the starter wont even "click" when i engage it...
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Echo 2003 2 door
Running lights: OK
Headlight mode, the running light stay illuminated but the head lights don't come on and the high beam light illuminates.
It feels like a relay but I don't know where to start. Had to drive home in the dark with the moon light my way home. I'd prefer to not do that again.
Found two 10A fuses under the hood. Both blown
The connectors to the lights are corroded and strangely, covered in oil. I could not find an oil leak (Problem with previous owner?)
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The lights were left on and ran battery down. Tried to jump start but would not start. Installed new battery, won't start, won't turn over, no click, nothing. Lights and dash board lights work. Changed starter relay, checked/changed fuses, took starter out and tested it 4 times at Autozone. Starter is good. Checked switch under clutch, it's good. Checked ignition with voltmeter, checks good. Checked fusable links with voltmeter. Checks good. Why won't this car start! I can push it off and it runs fine, that's how I got it home. I'm getting 12 volts to the starter.
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