Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: Clicking Noise Coming From Passenger Side Like Springs Are Loose
Oct 7, 2012
I just replaced the drums, shoes and hardware.
Everything went together with out issue but now when I put on the brakes there is a clicking noise coming from the passenger side, kind of like something is hanging up. sounds like one of the springs are loose. But when I took the drum off everything is tight and nothing is out of alignment.
Do drums need a break in period? Wondering if maybe there is a sharp edge and its making the shoe uneven on the drum and causing if to hang up when I put on the brakes.
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I have a 2000 Echo, Automatic, and I have a grinding sound that appears to be coming from the passenger side of the vehicle, under the hood. I had my A/C replaced, and new drive and power steering belts put in, 1,400 miles ago. I have noticed the sound is bad in park or neutral, seems to quiet down if I put it in Drive or Reverse while the engine is cool, and is particularly bad at highway speeds. I live 10 miles from my mechanic, on a highway, and am hesitant to drive it to them as it is all highway or rural roads (45 mph plus).
I drove it about 15 miles from when sound started (barely noticeable) to when I stopped and had it towed home. Belt deflection appears to be only about .3 in, manual I have calls for .43 to .51, but I may not be measuring it right....
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I can't get my front (passenger side) motor mount out because it's under the refrigerant line. How would I do that? There is a black, coiled "jacket" that goes around the line right before it enters the back of the radiator, can I detach it there? The line snakes all over the engine compartment and appears to be bolted onto the radiator on one end and the other end goes through a clamp and into the dash area. [URL]....................
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I have a 2009 Toyota Yaris with water dripping from under dash on passenger side when a/c is on. What it is and how to fix ?
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i have a 200 echo when i got it it would buck and loose power almost (but never) stall... then pick back up fast... driving 10 miles could result in whiplash it starts and idles fine not a skip... after looking though some online threads (btw: no CEL) i changed the air filter looked for vacuum leaks cleaned the MAF little better but still crappy changed the spark plugs again a little better but not even close to ok..
NOW CEL is on says too rich... changed MAF Much improvement but still bucks i went to toyota dealer they said no signal from air/fuel sensor.. changed it still no improvement but the fuel mileage is way better still bucks and sputters but is better at low speeds if i turn off the O/D and when the blue temp light is on, which i think does the same thing as turning off the O/D
if its idling no skips no vibration raise RPM's and it gets rough to a point raise it further and it keeps getting worse. I have a clogged filter or a TPS issue.
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I am looking to troubleshoot the problem I am having with my 2000 Toyota Echo Automatic with 253,000 Kms
Engine will at times bog down, loose power and skip, usually giving it more gas will straighten it out. Car is now stalling after driving and stopping unless you rev the rpms higher. The car will start in my driveway and idle with no problems however sometimes it will skip after a few minutes.
Codes I keep getting is P0171 Fuel too lean bank 1 and P0301 cylinder 1 misfire (for cylinder 3 before we cleared the codes)
Here is what I have done as I am lucky enough to have a 2000 Echo so we could switch some parts for testing:
Switched the coils, spark plugs and MAF sensor (didn't look dirty) What concerns us is when you unplug coil 1 from the engine there is no change in the idle (as there is a difference when unplugging the other coils)
We have checked for vacuum leaks but cannot find any.
Should also mention the engine is not overheating or burning oil.
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I'm getting a rubbing type of noise when i'm turn right and it sounds like a rubbing noise perhaps its a wheel bearing? how easy/hard is that to change. The noise is most notable when I'm on the highway and I'm making a left lane change or if I'm coming or going on a off ramp (left).
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2003 echo , automatic, 168,000 km's
When I press the brake pedal when in the car is in PARK , I can hear a click in the plastic transmission housing beside your knee, where you change gears. It clicks when you press and clicks again when you release, almost sounds like a relay clicking. It only happens when in park, not in neutral or drive or reverse. It seems to click right when the brake lights go on and again when they go off.
Possible shift lock solenoid or control unit?
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Was looking at some new side skirts for my 4d 2000 toyota echo but mine currently has the black plastic trim going completely around it. Are these easily removed? Like, are they clipped on?
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So on my girlfriends 2000 echo I get the classic bad wheel bearing noise/vibration on the front left (driver side) wheel. Worsens under load (right turn) and goes away when unloaded (left turn). I've replaced left side bearing, CV axle, brake rotors/pads and the noise still persists. My next thought is maybe the ball joint but humming/vibration tells me something out of rotational balance. Bearing in the transmission? I don't know. I'm stuck.
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My Echo is giving me problems. The red thermostat light has been coming off and on for the past two months. I had the radiator, fan and thermostat replaced. It started blinking again after two days. I took it to a mechanic that tested to see if it had a head gasket blown. That wasn't the problem. The mechanic said it was the water pump. I had the water pump replaced today and drove approximately 12 miles home when the red light started blinking again.
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Every time i put the key in the on position, the check engine light comes on, but not anymore and it wont start, wont make a clicking. Nothing What relay or fuse would this be.
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I have a 2004 Yaris 4 door auto and when driving smoke started to come from the dash around the centre speedo console, and by the windscreen then from all around dash. Had to stop left it 15 mins started ok no more smoke but smells still. Its been 2 days since it happened and been ok. All electrics seem to work ok. It was not from engine bay the car has only done 15 000 miles.
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I have an 07 Toyota Vitz and Side lamps, Tailgate lamps and number plate light are remaining off... Normal and bright works fine...
Checked fusses and are all good.
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My Toyota 2010 Yaris (5 door) has a electronic key locking issue. when locking the car with the smart key you will hear the mechanisms for all the doors locking then straight away the locking sound of the drivers door will go off again. all the doors will be locked except the drivers door. the drivers door still locks manually using the key but will not lock electronically. just want to know if there is a simply answer to this or something more sinister.
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I just bought a used 09 yaris, 5 speed manual tranny. There seems to be a small coolant leak on the top hose coming from the radiator, the one that connects to a plastic flange or adapter and then go's to the engine block. The car does not get hot and it drive fine except it leaks at that spot. I try using a regular hose clamp and still leaked. Is the thermostat not opening up or is the water pump intermittent stopping? or something like that. Or maybe the hose itself is bad. Since this is a used car who knows what the previous owner did, I might change out the hose over the weekend and replace all the coolant to the correct Toyota long life system. to be on the safe side.
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I have a 2001 echo with 140000kms on it, nothing ever has gone wrong with it. But I now have what sounds like a exhaust leak. I cant find any holes in the pipe anywhere. There is some dark residue that looks like it is coming from the exhaust manifold gasket. I replaced this but the sound continues. Do i need to get the manifold completely out of there and plane the mating surface of the manifold smooth. It looks really pitted right now?
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I've noticed a leak (oil or coolant?) that seems to be dripping from the left half of the passenger foot well. What could be the cause of this leak...
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It's not the bulb or the fuse, but my wife's driver's side brake light is out (only the stop light portion). Where should I look next?
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I have owned my 2008 yaris sedan since new. With the temp knob turned to full cold, the air coming in (all vents I think) is always warmer than the outside air. This is annoying; I am forced to turn on the air conditioner even when the outside air is just right. I suspect that an internal flapper valve of some sort is not seating properly and is leaking warm air.
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I have a 2005 Toyota Echo with no sunroof.
When there is heavy rain, I end up with extremely damp carpets in the driver's side. There is also water which looks as though it has leaked from running do the driver's side of the windscreen.
I have a strong suspicion that there is a leak in the windscreen, down the driver's side or at the bottom, but are there any other locations or suggestions that could be causing the leak ?
Also, if I take it in, is it possible just to replace the seal round the windscreen, or will the whole windscreen need to be replaced ?
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