Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: Check Engine Light Came On And Dash Lights Started Flashing
Sep 12, 2015
A couple of weeks ago I was driving my 2008 Toyota Yaris and the check engine light came on. Soon after the check engine light came on every dash light started flashing. The Car down shift into second while I was going 55 miles an hour! We took the car into a service center where they said it was the speed sensor which they replaced. We got the car home. I drove it to work the next day and while going to lunch the check engine light came back on! The car seems to be shifting fine though! They mentioned that if the speed sensor didn't fix it, it could be the "cluster"! What the heck is that?
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The check engine light has been going on and off for a couple of months. I took it in to be looked at and the mechanic said they couldn't get a code, couldn't get a "good read" on what was wrong. They said I could take the car back (but they couldn't give me an inspection sticker) and drive it for a couple of days and if the light comes on, take it back to them. If the light doesn't come on after a few days, they will give me the sticker. I can't believe my car is going to act any differently than it has for the last few months -- light comes on sometimes, sometimes it doesn't. Shouldn't the mechanic be able to tell what's wrong.
have a 2005 Scion with about 60,000 miles.
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For some time I have engine light on in dash. I bought OBD scan tool and I'm using OBD Auto Doctor.
I had this engine light on for some time. It come on and goes off comes on etc.
So this is the fault - P1272
I didn't find much info about this code. There are two reading about this code. Either it's something to do with fuel pump pressure or something to do with one of the cylinders.
Car Toyota Yaris 1,4D 2006
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Every time i put the key in the on position, the check engine light comes on, but not anymore and it wont start, wont make a clicking. Nothing What relay or fuse would this be.
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In January I had taken my car in for an oil change. About a Month later my check engine light comes on. I pull over and there is no oil cap. Why the light hadn't come on before then is beyond me. I also park on grass so didnt notice it. I took it to advanced auto to see what the code for the light was and it said that the engine was running lean. Is this connected? and if so how? I am driving a 2008 Toyota Yaris Hatchback
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I have a 2007 Yaris, 180,000 miles, The check engine light comes on. With a P0011 code. I know that that could mean either:
blocked oil passage
Mechanical timing fault
Camshaft position a timing over advance
Failed OCV
Or VVT controller assembly fault
Since it's been really cold out I figured maybe it was a blocked oil passage, but after an oil change and quick check - I no longer think that's the problem.
The car runs great and it doesn't seem anything is wrong at all ...
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Recently changed a front pipe manifold on my Echo 2003 4doors Five spd.
Noise I was reporting ealier thread seems to have subsided somehow but I did not hit the high road again, since the repair.
But I have this check engine light that went off 3 days ago and stays on.
Tried 4 times to read the code of OBd II reader and it pulls nothing. As if everything was normal.
I changed the batteries but it acts like it does regularly and it shows like there is no code to pull out.
Could that be a Ghostly Check Engine. It is still on at the moment meaning every time I drive the car.
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I just purchased a manual 02 echo coupe with 140k, It has been sitting for over 4 years as it has some type of wiring issue, I replaced the ECM thinking it was that and has the same symptoms. With key "off" the check engine light is on (about half bright) and the blue coolant light (full brightness) Forgot to mention another big problem, When I plug in the scanner there is no communication.
From what the old owner told me, He had a clutch put in it and the battery was installed backwards and it burnt the ECM. I'm thinking he bought the car as is and never got it running.
I read that the power goes through the instrument cluster. I'm going to pick one up from the junkyard tomorrow (off a 2000 manual echo).
Symptoms:
No communication to ECM
Coolant and check engine light stay on when switch is off
No spark at any of the four coils.
Replacement ECU did not fix anything.
I cleaned the three ground points in the engine bay.
I sprayed starting fluid hoping it was a fuel problem.
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First owner, 192000 miles. Check engine light came on during last winter, I put fuel injector cleaner with gas and it went away for a while. It came back on, if i reset, I can drive for about 50 miles before it comes back on line. Also, may be two or three times a week, when moving after a stop, the vehicle stalls, i have to take the feet of the gas pedal and give gas again.
I called up the dealer asking for fuel filter and fuel injector parts prices. Fuel filter is in the gas tank and not meant to be replaced. The fuel injector I was told 4 x $155 each. For diagnostics they need $100
See attached, I was able to clean sensor 1. I could not unscrew sensor 2, the screw is rusted, plus there is no room to get a longer screw driver and turn.
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I purchased a build Dec 05 1.3l Yaris several months ago. I recently started to get a check engine light, so I did a scan of the computer and it returned a P0012 error. Though multiple searches, I learned that this is likely due to the Camshaft Timing Control Valve Assembly or possibly the OCV filter.
Further searches haven't been able to reveal which parts I need to purchase to replace these items. I can only find details for the 1.5l engine.
The engine is: 2nz-fe, model: ncp90r-agmrkq
1. I don't even know where these parts are located on the car?
2. What part numbers do I need to purchase to replace?
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The check engine light keeps coming on and off on my 2001 Echo with the above code. The car runs fine and the check engine light randomly comes and goes. What would set off the check engine light, but not cause noticeable change in performance?
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The other day my 2000 Echo started missing, she would run fine until after about 5 mins. After that, it would run like it was only running on two or 3 cylinders so I took her to Auto Zone for a code check--it came back with p1315,p0141 & p0304. On the way home it really got bad! She started dying on me. Just like u turned the key off. Before coming to a complete rest I turned the key all the way off and back on and she ran for 30 seconds or so - You would have to turn her all the way off--back 2 clicks--one click back would not work and this is the way I got her back home--about 7 miles turning her on and off. I wish now I had not hooked her up to there code checker because I think it burnt something out.
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I've got error P0440 on my 2001 Echo about a week ago and cleared it, then I got it again today. It happened while driving, I was switching from 4th to 5th and the check engine lit up.
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My great 2001 Echo is acting up for the first time in 11yrs!.. This weekend I decided to have my mechanic change the manual transmission fluid and do a general inspection of the vehicle. He found nothing wrong. I decided that before embarking on a long trip, that I would change the oil/filter, flush the radiator and put new antifreeze, change the airfilter, replace the alternator belt, added a small bottle of Lucas complete fuel system and a new battery.
I was proud of my DIY performance except that the next day the engine light came on! I took it to AutoZone where I purchase all the supplies and battery and they came up with CODE P1349 which I researched and found out about VVT(variable valve timing) malfunction. Some of the reasons for this malfunction are: low fuel pressure due to clogged or bad injectors..... Fuel pump regulator....camshaft malfunction or ECU (engine control unit) problem.
1.This morning the light was off then ten or fifteen minutes later it went on and at the same time the iddle got much faster for about two or three minutes, (in other words the engine was running faster even when I took my foot off the accelerator) and then came back to normal.
2. Later on the light was off again followed by the same sequence of events. Then at one point later I could tell that the the engine was running fast again for a couple of minutes.
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I just got my wife a 2000 Echo with 224,000kms on the odo. Everything appears to be fine other than a mystery rattling noise under light acceleration. If I were to describe it, it sounds as if a box of rocks were to be shaken around. Or like a rattling loose chain... <------ definitely hope it's not that!
From a search, it seems like others have encountered this strange noise but have not reach what the cause is.
From what I gather, the timing chains on these motors are literally never touched and should last the life of the vehicle.
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My car started popping out of reverse a little while ago and its started happening more often. I asked my mechanic uncle about it and he said its probably the synchronous. From my understanding, that means a rebuild of the tranny. I just got this car in Nov after writing off my Corolla in Oct. Is there anything else minor I could check?
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I have a 2009 Toyota Yaris with water dripping from under dash on passenger side when a/c is on. What it is and how to fix ?
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I just bought a 2002 echo recently and it started smoking blue. The car has 135000 miles which seems low to me to be blowing smoke so soon. I grew up around cars since my dad was a mechanic so I checked the compression on a cold engine. Cyl. 1 was 117psi, cyl. 2 was 134, cyl.3 was 127 and cyl. 4 was 117. I realize they are low but the car is blowing a pretty good amount. The car drives pretty good overall and seems to have power, i drove it on the freeway a few times and did 80mph fairly easy. I was wondering if this could possibly be valve stem seals gone bad? I will check the pcv valve as well. I really like the car and have read a lot of good things about the echo.
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My car is a standard and was working fine not indication of any troubles. Stopped and pumped $20 gas. Started to drive and car starts running rough especially at low speeds. Going up hill is brutal. Engine light flash when trying to accelerate, slow getting up to speed, shudders- not a lot of power, once up to speed engine light turn off.
Press the gas to go up hill- engine light comes back on and it begins all over, it also sounds like it is not running on all cylinders.
Is there any suggestions: fuel pump, fuel injection...spark plugs and wires? Something more serious
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I am trying to find out how to disable the DRL on my 2008 yaris RS without loosing my fog lights, and if it could be possible to get the fog lights on when using the day lights.
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I just got this Yaris and both the abs and slip lights are staying on . Everything seems to be working fine but there is obviously some issue .
So I used a jumper wire on pin 4 and pin 13 of the code reader plug and for the abs I got 13 For the slip indicator I got 43 Now I can't seem to find out what these codes mean ?
I also read somewhere you can reset the abs light by jumping and pressing the brakes like 8 times will that also reset the slip indicator light or is there another procedure involved .
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