2002 toyota echo ... I can't get the button on the shifter lever to go in. It isn't the overdrive button. The cable was replaced last fall but this seems to be a new problem ...
View 1 RepliesMy car squeaks when I pull the shifter down from 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th. What is causing that?
View 1 RepliesThe engine starts, the throttle actuates, the dash lights and dome light work, the radio even works, but the fan does not, and neither does the air conditioner.
Turning the fan knob produced almost a whispering whining sound which soon stopped, and the AC compressor refuses to engage when the button is pressed.
One code popped up- P2118. I have read in other parts of the forum that this indicates a throttle actuator control motor current failure, but as I said, the throttle actuates, and the accelerator pedal works as intended. I reset that code, but I'm halfway dreading its return.
I have a 2008 Toyota Yaris. A few weeks ago my driver's side rear door stopped unlocking with the button on the key and the button on the driver's side door panel. About 2 weeks ago it started to work again, but just for 1 day; then it went right back to not working. About a week ago my passenger side door did the exact same.
I looked up the issue online and found that people with 07 RAV4s. An owner a RAV4 took the actuator in the door apart and found that the copper contacts had charred. After scraping with extremely fine sand paper and steel wool, and then reassembly of the door, the lock worked.
When ever my car is parked on a slope for 5 min I go to drive it and the car spudders when I accelerate.. when i leave it on flat ground after its perfect again.
View 5 RepliesMy wife's 2003 Echo is sitting at 255 000 KM's (Canada) and has hardly had a days problem.However yesterday tried starting and completely dead-not battery as almost new. Ignition makes clicking noise-lights/radio etc all working.Called the BCAA ( Vancouver) the guy tapped with a pole on something in the engine and voila she started. He said something about the starter or starter solenoid-today again the car is dead. Will take it to the mechanic on Monday but how do I get it started meanwhile ? what did the BCAA guy do and what did he tap on ?
View 2 RepliesWas looking at some new side skirts for my 4d 2000 toyota echo but mine currently has the black plastic trim going completely around it. Are these easily removed? Like, are they clipped on?
View 3 RepliesI'm trying to remove the tail light units from my 2002 Toyota Yaris.
I've removed the central nut from the inside but the light unit won't budge. There are two other protuberances coming through the metal body work which are a plastic spigot, lower left of the metal bolt, and rubber type insert further away to the upper right.
I'm also presuming that there is some stiction with the gasket.
Even with the nut removed the outside of the unit has zero movement while the inside has a slight amount of flex.
Am I missing something?
know the torque value for a 2009 yaris oil pan bolts? In another forum somebody quoted a value of 6.6 foot pounds, that seems too small and the wrong value to me.
View 3 RepliesJust bought little Echo and it's blowing hot air when the ac is on if I turn the ac off with the selector in the blue it's still hot. I used the gauge off a old ac recharger can and its showing the right amount of Freon and the compressor clutch is spinning. I am really wanting to fix it cheap , since I got it for 1200.
View 2 RepliesI am trying to find out how to disable the DRL on my 2008 yaris RS without loosing my fog lights, and if it could be possible to get the fog lights on when using the day lights.
View 1 RepliesBack in September '12, I was on the freeway and merging quickly into the fastlane/passing lane on the freeway-- third gear, near 80mph. Going for fourth gear was a brief misshift into second that apparently happens often with cars with the 1NZ-FE.
Because of that over-rev, I've since had an annoying tick that goes with the engine revs. It's been going strong regardless for over 10,000 miles, but it's frustrating nonetheless. Compression seems fine on all cylinders, and according to a shop I'm not primed to believe, the shims for the valves are fine and these engines "always sound like that." My video begs to differ.
For those who've maybe had the same sound, what's your take? I've heard of stretched timing chains/chain slack, water pump, clutch issues, etc., but want to narrow it down.
You get the contrast here, and toward the end I nearly over-lap the shots to hear them closer together. [URL] ....
Under the hood/car. [URL] ....
I've got error P0440 on my 2001 Echo about a week ago and cleared it, then I got it again today. It happened while driving, I was switching from 4th to 5th and the check engine lit up.
View 3 RepliesWhen I turn the a/c on, sometimes the compressor engages and sometimes it does not. When it does, I feel the engine's idle change and out comes very cold air. After a few minutes or longer, no more cold air but the fan is still blowing. If I quickly turn the a/c off and then back on again this seems to jump start the compressor and poof, out comes the cool air again. Sometimes it will begin producing cool air again on its own but most of the time I have to resort to turning it off, then back on. I don't believe I have a leak because otherwise no cool air would be emitted at all or the quality of the cool air would be poor.
View 2 RepliesI suspect that the 2006 Yaris rear hatch cylinder would work on my 2004 echo, so I got it from a u-pull. However it seems to be a bit gummed up with something, and I want to take it apart (far enough to rekey, basically).
I've got the spring clip off the back, and took out the back plate with the coil spring. I've cleaned up the metal cylinder and removed the spring at the back, but I don't know how to take the whole thing apart to clean the insides.
I am trying to disable the drl on my gf's 2004 echo but I can't seem to find the drl relay box. its not the same as the yaris cause I tried looking after I saw a link here but where it is?
View 2 RepliesI inherited my stepson's 2004 Echo. It's in great shape still aside from the fact it won't start. There's been a new battery, alternator and spark plugs put in recently. There are no codes coming up when I plug in the reader I have. So what is happening is that when I try to start it - it sounds like it almost wants to start but just doesn't fire up. I'm wondering if it's something to do with the fuel? There's no indicator lights that come up either.
View 1 RepliesI got a 2001 Toyota Echo 1.5L that was running rough on cold start ups. Got a trouble code saying the ECT was out of range, replaced that and after firing it up it started to hunt and had a very high idle, I unplugged the Idle air control and it still continued to hunt. I smoke tested it for vacuum leaks and no leaks. After plugging and unplugging things to see what made it disappear it now stopped hunting but maintains a idle of around 2000rpm in park or neutral, in drive or reverse the idle lowers to about 900rpm.
View 5 RepliesI have a problem with the air conditioning. It stops working when the car is in idle or driving below 40kl.
View 1 RepliesThe check engine light has been going on and off for a couple of months. I took it in to be looked at and the mechanic said they couldn't get a code, couldn't get a "good read" on what was wrong. They said I could take the car back (but they couldn't give me an inspection sticker) and drive it for a couple of days and if the light comes on, take it back to them. If the light doesn't come on after a few days, they will give me the sticker. I can't believe my car is going to act any differently than it has for the last few months -- light comes on sometimes, sometimes it doesn't. Shouldn't the mechanic be able to tell what's wrong.
have a 2005 Scion with about 60,000 miles.
I have a 2002 echo with 168K miles. My car was doing fine but I decided to change the air filter and spark plugs because I had a feeling the person I bought it from hadn't done it. All spark plugs needed to be changed (first 2 were hand loose also). I put in autolite platinum ( I believe bosch platinum were in there). All was fine until 5 days later the car started sputtering at acceleration at 40 mph. Then a few days later it would sputter at first pressing gas then again at 30mph and at 40mph. I let it go and read to clean air flow sensor but haven't yet.
About 2 weeks later it finally produced a code that cylinder 2 misfired. I noticed at that point the sputtering would only be when warmed up. I was going to put in bosch's to see if that would fix it but instead just had time to inspect plugs and coils. Nothing seemed wrong so I put them back in for now. This was Saturday.Echo ran fine until this morning. Now it is sputtering at 40mph. I assume if i let it go it will do the same thing. Can it be the spark plugs are bad and I should be using bosch's or is there another problem i should be looking at?