Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: Can't Get Front Passenger Side Motor Mount Out
Apr 12, 2014
I can't get my front (passenger side) motor mount out because it's under the refrigerant line. How would I do that? There is a black, coiled "jacket" that goes around the line right before it enters the back of the radiator, can I detach it there? The line snakes all over the engine compartment and appears to be bolted onto the radiator on one end and the other end goes through a clamp and into the dash area. [URL]....................
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I have a 2009 Toyota Yaris with water dripping from under dash on passenger side when a/c is on. What it is and how to fix ?
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I just replaced the drums, shoes and hardware.
Everything went together with out issue but now when I put on the brakes there is a clicking noise coming from the passenger side, kind of like something is hanging up. sounds like one of the springs are loose. But when I took the drum off everything is tight and nothing is out of alignment.
Do drums need a break in period? Wondering if maybe there is a sharp edge and its making the shoe uneven on the drum and causing if to hang up when I put on the brakes.
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I have a 2000 Echo, Automatic, and I have a grinding sound that appears to be coming from the passenger side of the vehicle, under the hood. I had my A/C replaced, and new drive and power steering belts put in, 1,400 miles ago. I have noticed the sound is bad in park or neutral, seems to quiet down if I put it in Drive or Reverse while the engine is cool, and is particularly bad at highway speeds. I live 10 miles from my mechanic, on a highway, and am hesitant to drive it to them as it is all highway or rural roads (45 mph plus).
I drove it about 15 miles from when sound started (barely noticeable) to when I stopped and had it towed home. Belt deflection appears to be only about .3 in, manual I have calls for .43 to .51, but I may not be measuring it right....
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Troubleshoot and diagnosis an occasional squeak from the front driver-side tire (FDST) on my 2004 Echo (4dr sedan). I have tried to figure out under what conditions I hear the squeaking and this is what I've come up with:
FDST usually starts to squeak after the car has warmed up.
It is not constant, but does seem to be consistent as a the tire rotates (as if it is the same spot(s) per tire revolution).
It is audible mainly during acceleration at low speeds (less than 50 km/h).
There is absolutely no squeaking or sound if I apply the brakes.
There is no squeaking at higher speeds (greater than 60 km/h).
I can pretty consistently reproduce the squeaking if I just slightly turn the steering wheel to the left.
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I'm getting a rubbing type of noise when i'm turn right and it sounds like a rubbing noise perhaps its a wheel bearing? how easy/hard is that to change. The noise is most notable when I'm on the highway and I'm making a left lane change or if I'm coming or going on a off ramp (left).
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2005 Toyota Echo Sedan. The trouble I am having is when it is damp or raining outside, the motor run real rough, stalling or missing. This is mostly at idle or lower speeds.......BUT ....... if the weather is dry, even cold and dry it runs like a charm. I have replaced plugs in the past year and the air filter as well, it has about 150km or less than 100,00 miles on it give or take.
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I have a 2010 Yaris 1.3 motor. Sometimes when I turn the ignition on it seems to keep wanting to start?
meaning it sounds like the starter motor isn't disengaging when the motor turns over, its been back to teh dealer twice now, someone suggested a relay?
I am taking it back again tonight for the auto sparkie to look at. The last time it did this I had to manually turn the car off to stop it turning over.
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I've had problems with rusted bolts, a remote starter with no fob, and a question on odd keys. It rattles like a lot of other Echo's, but otherwise handles as well as I can expect.
Anyway, the blower motor will, occasionally, squeal when the fan is switched on. Most of the time, it quietens down in a minute or so. This was flagged by the auto broker when I bought the car, and he did suggest having it replaced while the car was in his shop, which I declined.
The above was taken from the 2002 Echo manual.
My question is: What's the difference between the STANDARD heater, and the TWO WAY(S) flow heater? I've looked online for a replacement blower motor, and some seem to specify a 'cold weather' version. Is there any truth in this?
Is the blower motor the whole assembly (as pictured), or does the picture show the whole blower (motor) assembly, complete with the rotary fan blades?
I figure that the squealing indicates it's just the blower motor bearings(?) about to fail. I should be able to remove the whole assembly, and replace just the motor.
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How to change a 2003 toyota echo blower motor.... Looking for a step by step directions ....
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So on my girlfriends 2000 echo I get the classic bad wheel bearing noise/vibration on the front left (driver side) wheel. Worsens under load (right turn) and goes away when unloaded (left turn). I've replaced left side bearing, CV axle, brake rotors/pads and the noise still persists. My next thought is maybe the ball joint but humming/vibration tells me something out of rotational balance. Bearing in the transmission? I don't know. I'm stuck.
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I've always find solution to solve my little issues with my Toyota Echo 2004 Hatchback. Since last summer, my car seems to have a lot of problems to idle well with the fine rpm. Here are all the events :
-it all started last summer, when the motor would start to idle really high for a couple of minutes, before getting back to normal. When this happened, a p011 check engine would light up. I switched to synthetic oil, and it greatly reduce the number of time this happen, but it didn't solve it entirely. It usually happens when the motor is warm, but still not hot.
-Only once, during a long ride, I got a check engine. When I left the highway, my motor wouldn't stop idling high. stop/start the motor wouldn't change anything. I checked the check engine codes, if I remember well : p011, p016 and misfire. With a friend, we checked the crankshaft sensor, and it was really dirty, so we washed it, and it solved the problem! A few days after, I also change my spark plug because they were starting to be old.
-A few weeks ago, I started my car and it was idling high as usual to heat up faster (it is winter now). But then, the rpm suddenly drop really quickly. The rpm was really low for may be 2 seconds, and it nearly chokes, but just before it went up back to normal. Then low/high/low/high until the motor was hot. No check engine. I disconnected the battery for a few minutes, and when I reconnected it, the problem was solve. I also checked the air filter, but it wasn't dirty.
-Then, sometimes when I start my car, idling is fine but suddenly at a red light the motor start to run really low with a lot of vibrations and a bad smell. Stop and restart the motor solve the problem! But only until the next red light, or until the motor is warm enough. Still no check engine.
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Was looking at some new side skirts for my 4d 2000 toyota echo but mine currently has the black plastic trim going completely around it. Are these easily removed? Like, are they clipped on?
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I have an 07 Toyota Vitz and Side lamps, Tailgate lamps and number plate light are remaining off... Normal and bright works fine...
Checked fusses and are all good.
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My Toyota 2010 Yaris (5 door) has a electronic key locking issue. when locking the car with the smart key you will hear the mechanisms for all the doors locking then straight away the locking sound of the drivers door will go off again. all the doors will be locked except the drivers door. the drivers door still locks manually using the key but will not lock electronically. just want to know if there is a simply answer to this or something more sinister.
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I've noticed a leak (oil or coolant?) that seems to be dripping from the left half of the passenger foot well. What could be the cause of this leak...
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It's not the bulb or the fuse, but my wife's driver's side brake light is out (only the stop light portion). Where should I look next?
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I have a 2002 echo, and I need some work done on it. I'm pretty sure that my engine mounts are bad, and I know that my front bushings are shot. What should I expect to pay for the bushings/mounts to be replaced? Also, how do I know if my engine mounts are bad? Note that I am a college student living on campus, so doing the bushings will be next to impossible.
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I have a 2002 toyota echo and about 2 months ago my front left wheel came off while driving and ever since it has been making a thumping noise that is related to the wheel speed. I have replaced the front struts and brakes but the noise is still there. There is also a whirring noise. I have ruled out wheel bearings, ball joints and tie rods. I noticed vertical play in the right cv axle. It moves up and down coming from the trans and not the knuckle. Could that be the noise?
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I have a 2005 Toyota Echo with no sunroof.
When there is heavy rain, I end up with extremely damp carpets in the driver's side. There is also water which looks as though it has leaked from running do the driver's side of the windscreen.
I have a strong suspicion that there is a leak in the windscreen, down the driver's side or at the bottom, but are there any other locations or suggestions that could be causing the leak ?
Also, if I take it in, is it possible just to replace the seal round the windscreen, or will the whole windscreen need to be replaced ?
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I have a 2005 Toyota Echo that has just recently developed a problem with the driver side low beam headlamp. When I hit the light with my hand then it comes to normal but when I switch off the car engine and restart then again no lowbeam lights.
I thought one of my bulbs had burned out and when check the bulb so I found a small piece broken in bulb glass so I replace it with new one and then.
The one working was went off and the one bulb replace start working then I took off both bulb and swap with each other and now..
When the lights are on low-beam the bulbs barely light and if I switch to high-beam only driver side works and passenger side no low/high beam.
Both parking and turn-signal works perfectly However. Somebody suggested that the ground wire of headlight could be damage/faulty.
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