Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: Audio And Navigation System Aren't Working Properly
Sep 10, 2015
When i purchased the yaris ZR they had none with the Suna Audio and navigation system so they said they will ship the device in and then install it when they finally had it.... So I was driving this one around with the default device in or awhile. Everything was working fine, audio, messaging, calling and listen for a while. Everything was working fine, audio, messaging, calling and listening to podcasts ad audiobooks through apps on my phone. I am using the Samsung Galaxy S5 Everything has been updated and using all relevant updated software.
When they said it was finally in, i brought my car in and after a few issues and shipping the wrong parts I finally got it. (I was driving the latest Corolla in the meantime)
Bluetooth is cutting out every 2 minutes (and halfway through at about 1 minute there is a glitchy/pause/lag) .... It keeps saying something like "Connection with the mobile telephone has been disconnected" and my audio stops playing. It takes about 15 seconds to reconnect. And then i have to push the Audio power button twice to get back to listening to my media. Phone is fully charged, and plugged in. There are no distractions from anything else (The Original old device that came with it never did this). You can't play audio via USB with an android device on either this one or the old one so that option is out.
Messaging is not working - Worked fine in the old/original device on the Yaris and the Corollas I was using, when i got a text, it beeped and read it out - and i could quick reply with automated messages (if the car was not moving). Now, when I try to load them a message just stays on this screen for about 5 minutes then disappears - nothing happens. "Retrieving messages please wait....."
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For about the last 6 months or so I get a audio static for about 10-12 seconds every time I turn on the engine. Ditto after I turn off. I am using factory speakers, the head unit was replaced by previous owner. There has been no issue with the audio other than this one. I do live in an extreme weather area: +35C to -40C, but I don't think that should have anything to do with this. Is this a bad ground issue? In that case where do I find the ground cable and how to properly make the ground connection? Or is this something else?
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I have a problem with the air conditioning. It stops working when the car is in idle or driving below 40kl.
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I just recently replaced my alternator and battery in my 08 Toyota yaris and it's still not holding a charge. My blinkers, radio, and heating and air won't come on , also my wheel is hard to turn and in order to shift gears I have to push down the white button near the shift stick. I'm so confused as to what else could be going wrong and my mechanic can't seem to figure things out my last resort is the dealership but I'm thinking that would be expensive
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I have a check engine light on. The code it's throwing out is P0455 which is EVAP Emission Control System Leak (Large) My gas cap is on tight so it's not that. I'm not sure if it's my N80 Valve or if something else in the fuel system is wrong. For the record I did replace my fuel pump about 2 weeks before the light came on if that has anything to do with it.
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Got a 2010 Prius with navigation couple days ago. No problems so far except, in mornings, on cold start head unit acts strange. If I press map or destination button on the right side of it, it skips music tracks that are being played or changes the radio station. It glitches like that for about 15 minutes, than comes back to normal. turning the car on and off doesn't work at all. The unit had been replaced once under warranty by toyota dealer.
[URL].....
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I have a 2005 Prius the navigation system stopped working. When I press the Map button, the screen displays "the external system is not connected" also the voice came on and said voice recognition is off. Could it be a fuse or need to reset? It was working fine then just went black. I restarted the car a few times but still no work. Also where is the player at on the 05?
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When ever my car is parked on a slope for 5 min I go to drive it and the car spudders when I accelerate.. when i leave it on flat ground after its perfect again.
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I have a 2013 RX350 AWD, purchased new about 8 months old. Today for the first time, the navigation/audio system joy stick stopped working while I was driving. The display froze and then had just lines of pixels and very small font. Moving the joy stick had no effect. There was also no map displayed. The display was basically "messed up".
Once I got home, I turned of the car and then restarted. The display and joy stick was fine. I never saw this in all 8 months I've had the car. I am just about to schedule my 10,000 service.
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My wife's 2003 Echo is sitting at 255 000 KM's (Canada) and has hardly had a days problem.However yesterday tried starting and completely dead-not battery as almost new. Ignition makes clicking noise-lights/radio etc all working.Called the BCAA ( Vancouver) the guy tapped with a pole on something in the engine and voila she started. He said something about the starter or starter solenoid-today again the car is dead. Will take it to the mechanic on Monday but how do I get it started meanwhile ? what did the BCAA guy do and what did he tap on ?
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Was looking at some new side skirts for my 4d 2000 toyota echo but mine currently has the black plastic trim going completely around it. Are these easily removed? Like, are they clipped on?
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I'm trying to remove the tail light units from my 2002 Toyota Yaris.
I've removed the central nut from the inside but the light unit won't budge. There are two other protuberances coming through the metal body work which are a plastic spigot, lower left of the metal bolt, and rubber type insert further away to the upper right.
I'm also presuming that there is some stiction with the gasket.
Even with the nut removed the outside of the unit has zero movement while the inside has a slight amount of flex.
Am I missing something?
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know the torque value for a 2009 yaris oil pan bolts? In another forum somebody quoted a value of 6.6 foot pounds, that seems too small and the wrong value to me.
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Just bought little Echo and it's blowing hot air when the ac is on if I turn the ac off with the selector in the blue it's still hot. I used the gauge off a old ac recharger can and its showing the right amount of Freon and the compressor clutch is spinning. I am really wanting to fix it cheap , since I got it for 1200.
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My car squeaks when I pull the shifter down from 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th. What is causing that?
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I am trying to find out how to disable the DRL on my 2008 yaris RS without loosing my fog lights, and if it could be possible to get the fog lights on when using the day lights.
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Back in September '12, I was on the freeway and merging quickly into the fastlane/passing lane on the freeway-- third gear, near 80mph. Going for fourth gear was a brief misshift into second that apparently happens often with cars with the 1NZ-FE.
Because of that over-rev, I've since had an annoying tick that goes with the engine revs. It's been going strong regardless for over 10,000 miles, but it's frustrating nonetheless. Compression seems fine on all cylinders, and according to a shop I'm not primed to believe, the shims for the valves are fine and these engines "always sound like that." My video begs to differ.
For those who've maybe had the same sound, what's your take? I've heard of stretched timing chains/chain slack, water pump, clutch issues, etc., but want to narrow it down.
You get the contrast here, and toward the end I nearly over-lap the shots to hear them closer together. [URL] ....
Under the hood/car. [URL] ....
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I've got error P0440 on my 2001 Echo about a week ago and cleared it, then I got it again today. It happened while driving, I was switching from 4th to 5th and the check engine lit up.
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When I turn the a/c on, sometimes the compressor engages and sometimes it does not. When it does, I feel the engine's idle change and out comes very cold air. After a few minutes or longer, no more cold air but the fan is still blowing. If I quickly turn the a/c off and then back on again this seems to jump start the compressor and poof, out comes the cool air again. Sometimes it will begin producing cool air again on its own but most of the time I have to resort to turning it off, then back on. I don't believe I have a leak because otherwise no cool air would be emitted at all or the quality of the cool air would be poor.
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I suspect that the 2006 Yaris rear hatch cylinder would work on my 2004 echo, so I got it from a u-pull. However it seems to be a bit gummed up with something, and I want to take it apart (far enough to rekey, basically).
I've got the spring clip off the back, and took out the back plate with the coil spring. I've cleaned up the metal cylinder and removed the spring at the back, but I don't know how to take the whole thing apart to clean the insides.
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I am trying to disable the drl on my gf's 2004 echo but I can't seem to find the drl relay box. its not the same as the yaris cause I tried looking after I saw a link here but where it is?
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