I have owned my 2008 yaris sedan since new. With the temp knob turned to full cold, the air coming in (all vents I think) is always warmer than the outside air. This is annoying; I am forced to turn on the air conditioner even when the outside air is just right. I suspect that an internal flapper valve of some sort is not seating properly and is leaking warm air.
View 2 RepliesMy right radio knob is missing. It's really annoying, where I can get a replacement?
View 2 RepliesWhen I turn my wheel to the right, there is a scraping noise. Like, metal on metal. The more I turn, the more intense the sound. Does not affect driving performance, but it does sound problematic. As I turn the wheel, it starts making a scrape-scrape-scrape noise. It sounds like it could be a shield or wheel bearing, but I'm really not sure.
View 1 RepliesWhen I turn the a/c on, sometimes the compressor engages and sometimes it does not. When it does, I feel the engine's idle change and out comes very cold air. After a few minutes or longer, no more cold air but the fan is still blowing. If I quickly turn the a/c off and then back on again this seems to jump start the compressor and poof, out comes the cool air again. Sometimes it will begin producing cool air again on its own but most of the time I have to resort to turning it off, then back on. I don't believe I have a leak because otherwise no cool air would be emitted at all or the quality of the cool air would be poor.
View 2 RepliesFor about the last 6 months or so I get a audio static for about 10-12 seconds every time I turn on the engine. Ditto after I turn off. I am using factory speakers, the head unit was replaced by previous owner. There has been no issue with the audio other than this one. I do live in an extreme weather area: +35C to -40C, but I don't think that should have anything to do with this. Is this a bad ground issue? In that case where do I find the ground cable and how to properly make the ground connection? Or is this something else?
View 2 RepliesMy husband and I have a 2007 Yaris (purchased new in May '07) with 23,300 miles on it. He's super-religious about taking the car in and getting it serviced and maintained regularly. But we noticed a few days ago that the A/C wasn't putting out cold air. My first thought is that it's simply out of freon and needs to be serviced.
But it just seems odd (or at least to this know-nothing!) that it could be out of freon already. My husband mainly drives it and says he doesn't run the air "any more than anyone else." Is it possible that even at 14 months it's just simply out of freon? I've never heard of a car's A/C system running out of freon so quickly.
Also, we were out of town for a week; the car wasn't driven during that time. We noticed the problem the first time we drove it upon returning home. That couldn't have anything to do with it, could it?
I installed a new Goodyear alternator belt on our 07 Yaris couple months back and it started squealing after the first day and only during a cold start. My past experience has taught me that it's normally due to a loose belt (when belt is new) so I tightened it just a bit. After 3 days it started squealing again. I've increased the tension on the belt three times now and the squealing has not gone away. It's only on cold starts and only for about 1 minute. If memory serves me right there is no tensioner for the alternator belt. It would appear that it doesn't matter how tight the belt is, it still squeals on cold starts.
View 4 RepliesMy 2000 Echo's A/C didn't blow cold. It turns out the low side pressure was fine, but the compressor wasn't turning. I read somewhere that the A/C compressor's clutch eventually wears down so it doesn't grab the pulley anymore, and that sometimes removing spacers can move the clutch enough to allow it to grab. I took off the bolt on the compressor pulley and the spacer fell off. I put the bolt back on, and now I'm COOL!
View 2 RepliesWhen cold and not running, the shift lever sticks especially in 1st or 2nd and lacks that springy return to center. When cold running, Almost impossible to get in and out of 1st and 2nd, 3rd-5th stiff but manageable. After 5-7 min of driving, Shifts like butter. Tranny fluid has been replaced with amsoil syn.
This wasn't a progressive condition, shifted great one day (approx 2 weeks ago), next morning the fun began!
Is there anything other the control cable that cause the extremely sticky shifting when the car is off?
Just bought a 2005 Toyota echo 2 door. I'm getting it this week, just getting detailed and all that good stuff. I want to add mods to it, such as cold air intake, muffler and much more. Sadly it's an automatic but it will do. Any link to a website for a cold air intake?
View 2 RepliesMy Echo is giving me problems. The red thermostat light has been coming off and on for the past two months. I had the radiator, fan and thermostat replaced. It started blinking again after two days. I took it to a mechanic that tested to see if it had a head gasket blown. That wasn't the problem. The mechanic said it was the water pump. I had the water pump replaced today and drove approximately 12 miles home when the red light started blinking again.
View 8 RepliesThe stock air conditioning system in my 2003 Echo failed abruptly last week. The air no longer blows cold when the system is turned on. I've also noticed that the engine "hum" no longer changes frequency (gets lower because of what I assume is the added load) when I turn the A/C on. I checked the fuse and it looks intact.
View 3 RepliesMy 2002 Echo doesn't seem to be producing much heat. I have a scangauge installed, and it shows my temperatures around 75-80 C while our current temperatures here are around -20 C. I'm getting a bit of heat out of the vents but hardly enough to keep me warm.
I noticed that the coolant temperature will also drop a bit when I'm sitting idle listening to the radio before heading into our building at work. From about 85C to 70C, and the vents blow cold air.
My Radiator & Expansion tank are filled to proper level. I have just installed some cardboard inside the grille to try and block some of the cold air from entering. I haven't tested this out yet though.
The other day I was leaving work and I switched on the ac. I heard an audible popping noise and the air immediately stopped being cold. I pulled over and popped the hood, it smelled like freon and I'm sure it was mixed with compressor oil as there is oil stains all around the compressor now. Did I blow my compressor? Is there a blow off valve that could have been tripped? The compressor is not kicking on now, I don't know if it is blown or this is due to all the freon spraying out? It had been squealing on startup for a little while, I assumed it was a belt.... 2002 echo....
View 4 RepliesI've already replaced the Alternator and Water Pump today and I still cannot get rid of the noise and cold start squeal. The squeal goes away after the engine is warmed. A/C Compressor?
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Every time i put the key in the on position, the check engine light comes on, but not anymore and it wont start, wont make a clicking. Nothing What relay or fuse would this be.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Yaris 4 door auto and when driving smoke started to come from the dash around the centre speedo console, and by the windscreen then from all around dash. Had to stop left it 15 mins started ok no more smoke but smells still. Its been 2 days since it happened and been ok. All electrics seem to work ok. It was not from engine bay the car has only done 15 000 miles.
View 2 RepliesI've been having trouble getting my 2001 toyotoa echo to start in the cold weather and STAY Idling. All I can do to keep the car going is hold my foot on the gas until it warms up, then it stays running, low idle, but running. It starts fine the rest of the day, but that first start in the morning doesn't take. The check engine light comes on and stays on, and the car seems to idle rough at stops.
At first the Mechanic I took it to (good guys) cleaned out my throttle body (physically and chemically) and this seemed to solve the problem for a couple weeks. I'm located in Toronto, Canada, and we're heading into cold weather and I just want a car that starts. It started up again recently and I'm now being told (on my second visit to the mechanic) that it's my throttle body/idle control and that this part needs to be replaced, to the tune of 627.00 + labour.
I have a 2006 Scion XB I purchased last year. Last week the air was blowing cold in town and then blowing warm at highway speed. I took it to my mechanic who charged the system (said it was a pound low) and said he did not detect any leaks. Now suddenly it stops blowing cold altogether. Not all the time. It blows cold in the morning. Then in the afternoon when I leave work it blows hot. But I can stop the car a few miles down the road, turn the car off, start it back up, and it blows cold....
View 3 RepliesI just bought a used 09 yaris, 5 speed manual tranny. There seems to be a small coolant leak on the top hose coming from the radiator, the one that connects to a plastic flange or adapter and then go's to the engine block. The car does not get hot and it drive fine except it leaks at that spot. I try using a regular hose clamp and still leaked. Is the thermostat not opening up or is the water pump intermittent stopping? or something like that. Or maybe the hose itself is bad. Since this is a used car who knows what the previous owner did, I might change out the hose over the weekend and replace all the coolant to the correct Toyota long life system. to be on the safe side.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 echo with 140000kms on it, nothing ever has gone wrong with it. But I now have what sounds like a exhaust leak. I cant find any holes in the pipe anywhere. There is some dark residue that looks like it is coming from the exhaust manifold gasket. I replaced this but the sound continues. Do i need to get the manifold completely out of there and plane the mating surface of the manifold smooth. It looks really pitted right now?
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