This happens many times especially when I am parking parallel and need to take reverse frequently. The steering kind of jams, then vibrates and then the car engine is off. I need to restart every time this happens. This is causing fear to drive the car on highways.
View 5 RepliesI'm troubleshooting my sons 2000 Echo with a manual transmission. No reverse light. Very puzzling? The red wire with blue stripe in the trunk area is always hot. Makes no difference if the shifter is in reverse gear or not. Yet, the reverse lamps don't come on. I removed both bulbs and tested them at the battery using jumpers. They both come on. I have not gone under the car yet. My question is: does this car have a neutral start switch, and a back up light switch. If yes, which switch is feeding the other? Any pictures of where these switches are located? My guess is that the back up light switch is faulty, if there is one.
View 4 RepliesMy car started popping out of reverse a little while ago and its started happening more often. I asked my mechanic uncle about it and he said its probably the synchronous. From my understanding, that means a rebuild of the tranny. I just got this car in Nov after writing off my Corolla in Oct. Is there anything else minor I could check?
View 3 RepliesOkay, the code I am getting is a "Misfire on Cylinder 3" code. The car hesitates in REVERSE and DRIVE only, not in neutral.
This is what I have already done: checked all wiring (fixed a bare wire), did an ignition coil swap (#3 to #2) to see if it was actually the coil (no change), replaced all the spark plugs (no change), replaced the MAF sensor (no change).
A shop I tok it to said it was the ignition coil, and that all the spark plugs needed to be replaced. They did not know that I already replaced all the plugs and, having already done the swap with another coil (and getting no change), I find it hard to believe anything they say.
I am leaning toward an O2 sensor issue or a fuel filter issue (but these cars are supposed to have lifetime fuel filters and that is not a job I ant to do if I don't have to).
I was also told that the "green thing" in this photo might be bad. What that is and/or why it would be bad. it does move a little, but so do all the others.
I have an automatic 2002 Echo. Like 2 or 3 days ago I started hearing a noise when I drive in reverse. Is a mix of friction and vibration and it gets louder the faster I drive, only in reverse. I read that this could be the symptom of a bad engine mount but I haven't been able to pinpoint it.
View 1 RepliesWhy would my 2009 Yaris suddenly jerk to the left while doing 60-65 mph? It would jerk hard only once, but did it 3 times within a few minutes tonight and once earlier today.
View 1 RepliesMy wife's 2003 Echo has had some persistent issues. We've replaced the right front wheel bearing 3 times now, and the driver side front once.
The current issue is steering wheel vibration. It's hardly noticeable at 40mph, but gets serious around 60mph.
Some things I noticed when I took it for a spin today:
The right front wheel makes a clunk-squeak sort of sound on rough road. It has a looser feel at those times. Sort of like an old truck. Not a peep out of the driver's side.
The steering wheel vibration is not changed by shifting to neutral (it's an automatic). The vibration increases with speed, and is rougher at 50mph coming down on a coast from 60 than it is accelerating up from 40.
The vibration is reduced with slight braking and stops with heavy braking. In turns where the weight of the car is shifted to the right side, the vibration is reduced or stops. When the weight is shifted to the left (driver) side, there is no effect or it gets worse.
Uphill seems to be worse than downhill.
The car does not drift to either side when the steering wheel is released when not vibrating, and doesn't have much wander even with the wheel vibrating.
It does not clunk or squeal when turning or braking.
The mileage is 115k.
info on changing the drive and power steering belts. I recently changed them on a 2003 Echo and took some pictures.
There are 2 belts on the Echo engine. A drive belt and a power steering belt. In order to remove the power steering belt you must, first, remove the main drive belt. If changing one it may be best to change both.
First remove right front wheel. Use jack stands to support the vehicle. Do not rely on a jack to hold it up. Next remove the passenger side front bumper cover. I feel it best to remove the cover as then you can do a test drive before enclosing everything. You can, if you wish, just lower cover to give access to the drive belts. With the cover removed, check the power steering pulley and make sure that you have access to the adjusting bolt. This bolt is accessed thru an opening in the pulley. See last picture.
Here are 2 pictures of the bumper cover installed and removed.
For the last few months, I have been chasing down steering problems. Alignment, end links, ball joints... and now, humming. Every time I take a turn that requires more than 1/4 turn of the steering wheel, the car hums. It wasn't very noticeable at first, but over the last week it has gotten much louder.
I have topped off my PS fluid and replaced my belts, but this has not solved the issue. Before I start replacing a pump and/or a steering rack.
When I turn the steering wheel on the spot without the car moving, I get a popping noise which sounds like its coming from just behind the steering wheel. It sometimes happens when im turning and reversing out of my driveway. No noise coming from engine bay or wheels.
View 2 RepliesBack in September '12, I was on the freeway and merging quickly into the fastlane/passing lane on the freeway-- third gear, near 80mph. Going for fourth gear was a brief misshift into second that apparently happens often with cars with the 1NZ-FE.
Because of that over-rev, I've since had an annoying tick that goes with the engine revs. It's been going strong regardless for over 10,000 miles, but it's frustrating nonetheless. Compression seems fine on all cylinders, and according to a shop I'm not primed to believe, the shims for the valves are fine and these engines "always sound like that." My video begs to differ.
For those who've maybe had the same sound, what's your take? I've heard of stretched timing chains/chain slack, water pump, clutch issues, etc., but want to narrow it down.
You get the contrast here, and toward the end I nearly over-lap the shots to hear them closer together. [URL] ....
Under the hood/car. [URL] ....
I've got error P0440 on my 2001 Echo about a week ago and cleared it, then I got it again today. It happened while driving, I was switching from 4th to 5th and the check engine lit up.
View 3 RepliesThe check engine light has been going on and off for a couple of months. I took it in to be looked at and the mechanic said they couldn't get a code, couldn't get a "good read" on what was wrong. They said I could take the car back (but they couldn't give me an inspection sticker) and drive it for a couple of days and if the light comes on, take it back to them. If the light doesn't come on after a few days, they will give me the sticker. I can't believe my car is going to act any differently than it has for the last few months -- light comes on sometimes, sometimes it doesn't. Shouldn't the mechanic be able to tell what's wrong.
have a 2005 Scion with about 60,000 miles.
Every time i put the key in the on position, the check engine light comes on, but not anymore and it wont start, wont make a clicking. Nothing What relay or fuse would this be.
View 3 RepliesIn January I had taken my car in for an oil change. About a Month later my check engine light comes on. I pull over and there is no oil cap. Why the light hadn't come on before then is beyond me. I also park on grass so didnt notice it. I took it to advanced auto to see what the code for the light was and it said that the engine was running lean. Is this connected? and if so how? I am driving a 2008 Toyota Yaris Hatchback
View 1 RepliesEarlier today, while waiting at a red light, the engine on my 2001 Echo stalled. It has automatic transmission, so it wasn't me manhandling the clutch...
I started the engine, and as soon as the A/C tried to engage, it stalled again. I turned the A/C off, restarted the car and moved on.
When I got home I tested again, and the engine stalls when I try to turn on the A/C. If the car is moving when I push the A/C button the engine coughs and the car buckles.
It sounds like the compressor is seized. How common is this? I've never had this happen before in any car.
It's a 2001 Echo with 205,000 miles (trouble free I might add, other than consumables I never had to fix anything).
I am looking to troubleshoot the problem I am having with my 2000 Toyota Echo Automatic with 253,000 Kms
Engine will at times bog down, loose power and skip, usually giving it more gas will straighten it out. Car is now stalling after driving and stopping unless you rev the rpms higher. The car will start in my driveway and idle with no problems however sometimes it will skip after a few minutes.
Codes I keep getting is P0171 Fuel too lean bank 1 and P0301 cylinder 1 misfire (for cylinder 3 before we cleared the codes)
Here is what I have done as I am lucky enough to have a 2000 Echo so we could switch some parts for testing:
Switched the coils, spark plugs and MAF sensor (didn't look dirty) What concerns us is when you unplug coil 1 from the engine there is no change in the idle (as there is a difference when unplugging the other coils)
We have checked for vacuum leaks but cannot find any.
Should also mention the engine is not overheating or burning oil.
I have a toyota yaris d4d (2002). My engine light comes on, I lose power on throttle but engine will still idle. I turn engine off for a few minutes, then restart, I then carry on driving as normal as if nothing has happened. This happens every 2 weeks. Error code is p1121(accelerator pedal position sensor range/performance problem). How to rectify it ...
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 echo 1.3 vvti - will it has been running great and has 200000km on clock . However today i started it it ran for about 1 min then i heard a beeping from under the bonnet, the engine then stopped. The car will start and run for less than a sec then die. will not run no matter how much i play with the throttle .
View 2 RepliesI am buying a Toyota Echo that the engine shakes on Idle and the shaking increase a bit when the AC is On ....
View 2 RepliesI have a 2007 Yaris, 180,000 miles, The check engine light comes on. With a P0011 code. I know that that could mean either:
blocked oil passage
Mechanical timing fault
Camshaft position a timing over advance
Failed OCV
Or VVT controller assembly fault
Since it's been really cold out I figured maybe it was a blocked oil passage, but after an oil change and quick check - I no longer think that's the problem.
The car runs great and it doesn't seem anything is wrong at all ...