Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2010 - Radio Screen Going Blank Or Just Turning Off By Itself
Nov 24, 2015
My daughters factory radio has issues with the screen going blank or just turning off by itself. Sometimes the radio still plays but sometimes it has to be turned off and back on.
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My Echo's factory radio started losing sound randomly and coming back on when I hit bumps. I changed it out for an actual Echo factory radio from my girlfriend's car and that one is doing the same thing. The really odd part is that now it will sometimes cut out when I turn the wheel slightly or hit the brake pedal. I checked, no wires are dragging on the steering column or tangled in the brake pedal lever.
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My right radio knob is missing. It's really annoying, where I can get a replacement?
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Yesterday I replaced what I thought was a bad front passenger wheel bearing, I removed the hub myself and took the hub to a local dealer to press out the old bearing and press in the new one.
Took the part back to the shop, got everything all assembled and took it out for a test drive. Right away I notice I still here the same noise, possibly even worse then before.
It was already late in the day so I decided to clean up and call it a day. During my trip home I notice everytime I turned the wheel to the left I here a horrible grinding noise, I did not have this sound before changing the wheel bearing.
Second guessing my own work, I took the car to the mechanic down the road today, not the same place that pressed the new bearing in. The mechanic inspected my work and couldn't find any problems at all. Even the ball joint I thought I had ruined was fine.
He inspected both from wheels for play, no play in either wheel. He then put the car up on the hoist while I remained in the car turning the wheel and accelerating. We were not able to reproduce the sound with the vehicle on the hoist, even with his stethoscope he could not here any noise coming from bearings on either front wheel. Everything sounds great with the car in the air, it's just when it's on the ground when there are problems.
Rotated all tire just to make sure it wasn't an oddly loud broken tire belt, once again no change.
I did replace the stabilizer link kit as well since the old one broke while during the wheel bearing replacement. Is there anyway I could have done something wrong with the stabilizer link that could cause this noise? I doubt this is the case since the mechanic did have a look at it.
I'm still assuming it's the front passenger wheel bearing, but don't wan't to go replacing parts I don't need. (I put a new fuel pump in my TJ 2 weeks ago only to discover all I really needed to repair was the broken wire going to the pump )
So just to be clear my car only makes this noise when it is on the ground, when the car is in the hoist I can turn the wheel and accelerate without any noise.
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I have a 2001 Echo sedan that was given to me. It has sat unused for several months. The radio and Acc lights worked, but the car wouldn't start and the battery would drain very quickly when not in use. It sat for a few more weeks, and then I replaced the battery, now the radio will not turn on at all (everything else is fine).
I checked all the fuses, and they are good (though, not the ones on the radio itself). I will be replacing this with an aftermarket stereo anyway, I just want to make sure it is the radio that's the problem, and not something else in the car. From reading, it seems that it could be an anti-theft function, for which a code would need to be entered to unlock the stereo, but nothing is displayed on the screen at all when the car is on, not "SAFE" nor "SEC". There may be a certain button combo I need to hold in order to bring up the code prompt, but what those are, and the ones I have tried haven't worked. The radio is just an AM/FM Model #: A51408 (image attached).
So do you think I only need the code, something else might be wrong, or the radio just coincidentally died? No mention of a code is made in the manual.
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For the last few months, I have been chasing down steering problems. Alignment, end links, ball joints... and now, humming. Every time I take a turn that requires more than 1/4 turn of the steering wheel, the car hums. It wasn't very noticeable at first, but over the last week it has gotten much louder.
I have topped off my PS fluid and replaced my belts, but this has not solved the issue. Before I start replacing a pump and/or a steering rack.
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I have a 2004 Echo with the 5 speed manual. Everything is factory original on this car except the tires. (159,000 km). While turning hard to the right at low speeds or pulling away from a stop and turning right, I get a harsh grinding/scraping noise and it seems to be coming from the drivers front wheel. If it was a CV joint, or wheel bearing, wouldn't it make noise all the time?
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No audio on 2001 Toyota Echo radio. Volume control never stops when rotated. Radio lights up, showing station frequencies as I change stations. My conclusion is Power-Volume switch is shot and needs to be replaced. Sound logical? Is it a big problem to remove radio and change the switch?
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I just got this Yaris and both the abs and slip lights are staying on . Everything seems to be working fine but there is obviously some issue .
So I used a jumper wire on pin 4 and pin 13 of the code reader plug and for the abs I got 13 For the slip indicator I got 43 Now I can't seem to find out what these codes mean ?
I also read somewhere you can reset the abs light by jumping and pressing the brakes like 8 times will that also reset the slip indicator light or is there another procedure involved .
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2010 Tiguan. Screen went blank but radio, media still work.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Yaris four door. When I am stopped while in drive, the front left part of the vehicle rattles, sounds like it is around the front driver-side tire. If I change the car into Neutral, Reverse, or Park it will go away, but Drive or any of the lower gears will cause the rattle. I have only had the car for about 2 months and it has been doing this for a couple weeks.
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My Toyota 2010 Yaris (5 door) has a electronic key locking issue. when locking the car with the smart key you will hear the mechanisms for all the doors locking then straight away the locking sound of the drivers door will go off again. all the doors will be locked except the drivers door. the drivers door still locks manually using the key but will not lock electronically. just want to know if there is a simply answer to this or something more sinister.
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When I turn the steering wheel on the spot without the car moving, I get a popping noise which sounds like its coming from just behind the steering wheel. It sometimes happens when im turning and reversing out of my driveway. No noise coming from engine bay or wheels.
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The engine starts, the throttle actuates, the dash lights and dome light work, the radio even works, but the fan does not, and neither does the air conditioner.
Turning the fan knob produced almost a whispering whining sound which soon stopped, and the AC compressor refuses to engage when the button is pressed.
One code popped up- P2118. I have read in other parts of the forum that this indicates a throttle actuator control motor current failure, but as I said, the throttle actuates, and the accelerator pedal works as intended. I reset that code, but I'm halfway dreading its return.
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When ever my car is parked on a slope for 5 min I go to drive it and the car spudders when I accelerate.. when i leave it on flat ground after its perfect again.
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My wife's 2003 Echo is sitting at 255 000 KM's (Canada) and has hardly had a days problem.However yesterday tried starting and completely dead-not battery as almost new. Ignition makes clicking noise-lights/radio etc all working.Called the BCAA ( Vancouver) the guy tapped with a pole on something in the engine and voila she started. He said something about the starter or starter solenoid-today again the car is dead. Will take it to the mechanic on Monday but how do I get it started meanwhile ? what did the BCAA guy do and what did he tap on ?
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Was looking at some new side skirts for my 4d 2000 toyota echo but mine currently has the black plastic trim going completely around it. Are these easily removed? Like, are they clipped on?
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I'm trying to remove the tail light units from my 2002 Toyota Yaris.
I've removed the central nut from the inside but the light unit won't budge. There are two other protuberances coming through the metal body work which are a plastic spigot, lower left of the metal bolt, and rubber type insert further away to the upper right.
I'm also presuming that there is some stiction with the gasket.
Even with the nut removed the outside of the unit has zero movement while the inside has a slight amount of flex.
Am I missing something?
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know the torque value for a 2009 yaris oil pan bolts? In another forum somebody quoted a value of 6.6 foot pounds, that seems too small and the wrong value to me.
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Just bought little Echo and it's blowing hot air when the ac is on if I turn the ac off with the selector in the blue it's still hot. I used the gauge off a old ac recharger can and its showing the right amount of Freon and the compressor clutch is spinning. I am really wanting to fix it cheap , since I got it for 1200.
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My car squeaks when I pull the shifter down from 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th. What is causing that?
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