Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2010 - No Fan / AC Compressor Refuses To Engage When Button Pressed (Code P2118)
Jul 23, 2013
The engine starts, the throttle actuates, the dash lights and dome light work, the radio even works, but the fan does not, and neither does the air conditioner.
Turning the fan knob produced almost a whispering whining sound which soon stopped, and the AC compressor refuses to engage when the button is pressed.
One code popped up- P2118. I have read in other parts of the forum that this indicates a throttle actuator control motor current failure, but as I said, the throttle actuates, and the accelerator pedal works as intended. I reset that code, but I'm halfway dreading its return.
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2002 toyota echo ... I can't get the button on the shifter lever to go in. It isn't the overdrive button. The cable was replaced last fall but this seems to be a new problem ...
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The front end of my Toyota Echo has been squealing but only when it's either in drive or in 2nd gear and only when the brake pedal is pressed, once I release the brake pedal it only squeals for a few seconds then once the car moves faster than 5 miles an hour it goes away.. I completely replaced the suspension late last year. I just replaced the belt a few minutes ago and it still does this. I noticed that when the car is off and in park, when I shake the car forward and backward I hear a slight squeal coming from the front. I think it might be the engine mounts and or the transmission mount. What could it be?
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My ac compressor just went out in my 03 Echo and now the car won't even start. I believe the pulley on the ac seized up b/c the belt won't turn and it just makes a horrible squealing noise when you try to turn the engine over. Right now I'm too broke to get a new ac compressor so I figured I'd just replace the belt with one that bypasses the ac altogether. Is this possible with the 03 Echo? And if so, any diagram or pic of the engine with and without the ac belt on it? I need my car back on the road asap...
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Earlier today, while waiting at a red light, the engine on my 2001 Echo stalled. It has automatic transmission, so it wasn't me manhandling the clutch...
I started the engine, and as soon as the A/C tried to engage, it stalled again. I turned the A/C off, restarted the car and moved on.
When I got home I tested again, and the engine stalls when I try to turn on the A/C. If the car is moving when I push the A/C button the engine coughs and the car buckles.
It sounds like the compressor is seized. How common is this? I've never had this happen before in any car.
It's a 2001 Echo with 205,000 miles (trouble free I might add, other than consumables I never had to fix anything).
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I have a 2008 Toyota Yaris. A few weeks ago my driver's side rear door stopped unlocking with the button on the key and the button on the driver's side door panel. About 2 weeks ago it started to work again, but just for 1 day; then it went right back to not working. About a week ago my passenger side door did the exact same.
I looked up the issue online and found that people with 07 RAV4s. An owner a RAV4 took the actuator in the door apart and found that the copper contacts had charred. After scraping with extremely fine sand paper and steel wool, and then reassembly of the door, the lock worked.
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I have a 2009 Yaris and it started acting like it was stalling out. It won't accelerate. It bogs down. Check engine light is on and when tested got a code of P0353. This means the third coil is bad. I did the check but it seemed to be ok.
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I have a 2007 Yaris, 180,000 miles, The check engine light comes on. With a P0011 code. I know that that could mean either:
blocked oil passage
Mechanical timing fault
Camshaft position a timing over advance
Failed OCV
Or VVT controller assembly fault
Since it's been really cold out I figured maybe it was a blocked oil passage, but after an oil change and quick check - I no longer think that's the problem.
The car runs great and it doesn't seem anything is wrong at all ...
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Recently changed a front pipe manifold on my Echo 2003 4doors Five spd.
Noise I was reporting ealier thread seems to have subsided somehow but I did not hit the high road again, since the repair.
But I have this check engine light that went off 3 days ago and stays on.
Tried 4 times to read the code of OBd II reader and it pulls nothing. As if everything was normal.
I changed the batteries but it acts like it does regularly and it shows like there is no code to pull out.
Could that be a Ghostly Check Engine. It is still on at the moment meaning every time I drive the car.
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My great 2001 Echo is acting up for the first time in 11yrs!.. This weekend I decided to have my mechanic change the manual transmission fluid and do a general inspection of the vehicle. He found nothing wrong. I decided that before embarking on a long trip, that I would change the oil/filter, flush the radiator and put new antifreeze, change the airfilter, replace the alternator belt, added a small bottle of Lucas complete fuel system and a new battery.
I was proud of my DIY performance except that the next day the engine light came on! I took it to AutoZone where I purchase all the supplies and battery and they came up with CODE P1349 which I researched and found out about VVT(variable valve timing) malfunction. Some of the reasons for this malfunction are: low fuel pressure due to clogged or bad injectors..... Fuel pump regulator....camshaft malfunction or ECU (engine control unit) problem.
1.This morning the light was off then ten or fifteen minutes later it went on and at the same time the iddle got much faster for about two or three minutes, (in other words the engine was running faster even when I took my foot off the accelerator) and then came back to normal.
2. Later on the light was off again followed by the same sequence of events. Then at one point later I could tell that the the engine was running fast again for a couple of minutes.
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For some time I have engine light on in dash. I bought OBD scan tool and I'm using OBD Auto Doctor.
I had this engine light on for some time. It come on and goes off comes on etc.
So this is the fault - P1272
I didn't find much info about this code. There are two reading about this code. Either it's something to do with fuel pump pressure or something to do with one of the cylinders.
Car Toyota Yaris 1,4D 2006
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I just got this Yaris and both the abs and slip lights are staying on . Everything seems to be working fine but there is obviously some issue .
So I used a jumper wire on pin 4 and pin 13 of the code reader plug and for the abs I got 13 For the slip indicator I got 43 Now I can't seem to find out what these codes mean ?
I also read somewhere you can reset the abs light by jumping and pressing the brakes like 8 times will that also reset the slip indicator light or is there another procedure involved .
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First owner, 192000 miles. Check engine light came on during last winter, I put fuel injector cleaner with gas and it went away for a while. It came back on, if i reset, I can drive for about 50 miles before it comes back on line. Also, may be two or three times a week, when moving after a stop, the vehicle stalls, i have to take the feet of the gas pedal and give gas again.
I called up the dealer asking for fuel filter and fuel injector parts prices. Fuel filter is in the gas tank and not meant to be replaced. The fuel injector I was told 4 x $155 each. For diagnostics they need $100
See attached, I was able to clean sensor 1. I could not unscrew sensor 2, the screw is rusted, plus there is no room to get a longer screw driver and turn.
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I have a 2002 Toyota Echo. I just purchases a Creader V code scanner. My car is throwing a P0171 code. The light only comes on at idle or while going under 10 mph.
The data from the reader was:
Trouble Code: P0171
Fuel System sta B1 : CL, using HO2S
Calculated Load: 11.76%
Coolant Temp 188.59 degrees
The Freeze frame data was:
ST Fuel B1: -3.91%
LF Fuel B1: 36.7%
Engine speed: 795.5 RPM
Vehicle speed: 0 mph
Intake Air Temp: 82.4 degrees.
I went back today and ran live feed on the O2 sensors. I'm not sure what STF of O2S: STF means. That was another figure displayed on my code scanner.
The O2S S1 was reading between .04 and about .82. The graph looked pretty normal (I guess) in regards to going up and back down between 0 and 1. I don't know alot about mechanics, but I seen a youtube video of a graph showing it going up and down and what is normal. Mine did that on S1.
O2S S1: STF was: 3.89 and -1.57%
O2S: S2 was a different story. It was between like .58 and .66.
The O2S S2: STF didn't give me a value at all. It just said " --% ". The graph of this was slowly going up but in a small range. It started at like maybe .4 and would go up to say .5. The next wave would be like .45 to .55, then .50 to .60, then .58 to .66 etc. So it was not ranging just between 0 and 1. It had a very tight range that gradually increased upwards.
I built my own smoke machine before testing with the code scanner and I didn't get any smoke coming out of the car except for around the air filter housing where the lid meets the bottom portion. I don't know if it's because I had the air filter wrapped in plastic wrap. Can I have an air leak where the filter cartridge connects that would case a lean code P0171? Maybe I should go try to smoke test again. I did it about 3 weeks ago and I can't recall exactly where I had the smoke going into. I thought I disconnected the PVC hose from the brake booster and plugged it in there. I assume the smoke would get thru the whole system. It took about 2 min before the smoke came out of the filter housing.
The car only sets a lean code at idle or going less than 10mph and I'm coasting in a residential area.
I have an inspection coming up in May and need to get this thing fixed before that. I can't find any other air leak, but I wasn't sure a leak around the filter would cause this and I'm not sure the leak wasn't caused by the plastic wrap.
I'm thinking my only other prob could be fuel related. Fuel filter, fuel pump, clogged injector, or can my O2 sensor be bad and causing this? I've already replaced all spark plugs and coils as well as the PVC valve and cleaned the MAF sensor with the appropriate spray.
The car runs ok. The exhaust seems to smell RICH. Like Gas. I don't think my fuel economy is as good as it use to be. It has dropped from as hi as 42 mpg to between 38 and 40 if I'm lucky.
Back when I was having problems before and realized I had a bad coil, I had tried some injector cleaner. Why the codes were back then, but I had erased them and the car ran fine for about 2 months and the light came back.
My MAF sensor was .14 lbs when I was watching the live data above. I plugged my fuel pressure tester directly into the fuel line coming from the fuel tank and got a reading of between 42 and 44 lbs (car not running, just by trying to turn the engine over). I don't know if that is as accurate (or useful) as having the fuel pressure tester on the car and in line to allow the car to start up and run and watch the tester. I have to wait until my part comes do run the test that way.
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I'm getting error P0125 on my 2001 Echo, which points to possibly a faulty ECT sensor.
Where is this sensor located? Seems like under the air box? Is replacing this part as annoying as it looks? And, are there any other possible causes for code P0125?
In case it's related, I will mention that code P0171 (mixture too lean, I believe) is present as well, and the car does hesitate upon initial acceleration when standing still. Once it's moving, it works fine.
Maybe it's time to start thinking about replacing this car... it has 216,000 miles...
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2004 echo, 109,000 km. P0301 came up and upon investigation I discovered that my no.1 spark plug well was filled with what I believe to be coolant. The top of the valve cover (where the coil packs are seated) was bone dry. The oil, from what I can see on the dip stick looks ok - I intend to replace to investigate further. Coolant is low. Spark plug wells for cylinders 2 - 4 are ok.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Echo 1.5. About a year ago the cel went off and on intermittently and I got a p0511 code. For the past few months, the light has stayed on steadily except for a 2 week period when it stayed off. When the cel is on , the car idles slightly low for about a second just after start up. When the engine is warm, it idles steadily about 400 rpm above normal idle. When the cel is not on, the idle is perfect both at start up and when the engine is warm. I did take off the IAC and cleaned it, but it already looked spotless inside and seemed to operate smoothly.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Yaris four door. When I am stopped while in drive, the front left part of the vehicle rattles, sounds like it is around the front driver-side tire. If I change the car into Neutral, Reverse, or Park it will go away, but Drive or any of the lower gears will cause the rattle. I have only had the car for about 2 months and it has been doing this for a couple weeks.
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My daughters factory radio has issues with the screen going blank or just turning off by itself. Sometimes the radio still plays but sometimes it has to be turned off and back on.
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My Toyota 2010 Yaris (5 door) has a electronic key locking issue. when locking the car with the smart key you will hear the mechanisms for all the doors locking then straight away the locking sound of the drivers door will go off again. all the doors will be locked except the drivers door. the drivers door still locks manually using the key but will not lock electronically. just want to know if there is a simply answer to this or something more sinister.
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My friend has a 2003 Toyota Echo that is throwing a cylinder misfire code. Original code is P0302 and P0302PD. The car is idling rougher, kind of sounds like "put-put-put". Also, the car has no power at all. He lives on a hill and he can't even pull out of his driveway. Lastly, the smell of the exhaust is gassy.
We have changed out the spark plugs...no change. Next, we bought a new ignition coil for the number two cylinder...no change. So, maybe its the wiring. Put the new coil onto the number 3 cylinder and the number 3 coil onto the 2 cylinder. Low and behold, the misfire code changes to P0303 and P0303PD.
Thinking we might have gotten a dud of a coil, we bought another. Same thing...new coil on 2 code is P0302...new coil on 3, code is P0303. Could we just have gotten two bad coils? Oh, coils were a BWD brand coil and Duralast brand. Should we just go OEM from dealer? OR Denso from Advance Auto?
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