Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2010 - Both ABS And Slip Lights Are Staying On?
Apr 26, 2016
I just got this Yaris and both the abs and slip lights are staying on . Everything seems to be working fine but there is obviously some issue .
So I used a jumper wire on pin 4 and pin 13 of the code reader plug and for the abs I got 13 For the slip indicator I got 43 Now I can't seem to find out what these codes mean ?
I also read somewhere you can reset the abs light by jumping and pressing the brakes like 8 times will that also reset the slip indicator light or is there another procedure involved .
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I am trying to find out how to disable the DRL on my 2008 yaris RS without loosing my fog lights, and if it could be possible to get the fog lights on when using the day lights.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Yaris four door. When I am stopped while in drive, the front left part of the vehicle rattles, sounds like it is around the front driver-side tire. If I change the car into Neutral, Reverse, or Park it will go away, but Drive or any of the lower gears will cause the rattle. I have only had the car for about 2 months and it has been doing this for a couple weeks.
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My daughters factory radio has issues with the screen going blank or just turning off by itself. Sometimes the radio still plays but sometimes it has to be turned off and back on.
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My Toyota 2010 Yaris (5 door) has a electronic key locking issue. when locking the car with the smart key you will hear the mechanisms for all the doors locking then straight away the locking sound of the drivers door will go off again. all the doors will be locked except the drivers door. the drivers door still locks manually using the key but will not lock electronically. just want to know if there is a simply answer to this or something more sinister.
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I have a Toyota Echo 1999 1.5 VVTi. Lately the Instrument panel / Dashboard has been intermittently turning off / on while driving. Its one of those digital instrument panels.
Fuses seem good , Dimmer switch works (only when the instrument panel is illuminated!) The other lights (none digital) on the dash work such handbrake , temp etc. always work fine, just the digital Instruments are causing the issue.
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A couple of weeks ago I was driving my 2008 Toyota Yaris and the check engine light came on. Soon after the check engine light came on every dash light started flashing. The Car down shift into second while I was going 55 miles an hour! We took the car into a service center where they said it was the speed sensor which they replaced. We got the car home. I drove it to work the next day and while going to lunch the check engine light came back on! The car seems to be shifting fine though! They mentioned that if the speed sensor didn't fix it, it could be the "cluster"! What the heck is that?
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When I turn the steering wheel on the spot without the car moving, I get a popping noise which sounds like its coming from just behind the steering wheel. It sometimes happens when im turning and reversing out of my driveway. No noise coming from engine bay or wheels.
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I just got a 2000 toyota echo from my dad and it is having a strange problem when i turn on the windshield wipers the front two lights for like the parking lights come on and i have replace the wiper motor and it still does it and I also checked my ground wires good this be a pitched wire or the switch going bad ...
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The engine starts, the throttle actuates, the dash lights and dome light work, the radio even works, but the fan does not, and neither does the air conditioner.
Turning the fan knob produced almost a whispering whining sound which soon stopped, and the AC compressor refuses to engage when the button is pressed.
One code popped up- P2118. I have read in other parts of the forum that this indicates a throttle actuator control motor current failure, but as I said, the throttle actuates, and the accelerator pedal works as intended. I reset that code, but I'm halfway dreading its return.
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When ever my car is parked on a slope for 5 min I go to drive it and the car spudders when I accelerate.. when i leave it on flat ground after its perfect again.
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My wife's 2003 Echo is sitting at 255 000 KM's (Canada) and has hardly had a days problem.However yesterday tried starting and completely dead-not battery as almost new. Ignition makes clicking noise-lights/radio etc all working.Called the BCAA ( Vancouver) the guy tapped with a pole on something in the engine and voila she started. He said something about the starter or starter solenoid-today again the car is dead. Will take it to the mechanic on Monday but how do I get it started meanwhile ? what did the BCAA guy do and what did he tap on ?
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Was looking at some new side skirts for my 4d 2000 toyota echo but mine currently has the black plastic trim going completely around it. Are these easily removed? Like, are they clipped on?
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I'm trying to remove the tail light units from my 2002 Toyota Yaris.
I've removed the central nut from the inside but the light unit won't budge. There are two other protuberances coming through the metal body work which are a plastic spigot, lower left of the metal bolt, and rubber type insert further away to the upper right.
I'm also presuming that there is some stiction with the gasket.
Even with the nut removed the outside of the unit has zero movement while the inside has a slight amount of flex.
Am I missing something?
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know the torque value for a 2009 yaris oil pan bolts? In another forum somebody quoted a value of 6.6 foot pounds, that seems too small and the wrong value to me.
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Just bought little Echo and it's blowing hot air when the ac is on if I turn the ac off with the selector in the blue it's still hot. I used the gauge off a old ac recharger can and its showing the right amount of Freon and the compressor clutch is spinning. I am really wanting to fix it cheap , since I got it for 1200.
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My car squeaks when I pull the shifter down from 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th. What is causing that?
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Back in September '12, I was on the freeway and merging quickly into the fastlane/passing lane on the freeway-- third gear, near 80mph. Going for fourth gear was a brief misshift into second that apparently happens often with cars with the 1NZ-FE.
Because of that over-rev, I've since had an annoying tick that goes with the engine revs. It's been going strong regardless for over 10,000 miles, but it's frustrating nonetheless. Compression seems fine on all cylinders, and according to a shop I'm not primed to believe, the shims for the valves are fine and these engines "always sound like that." My video begs to differ.
For those who've maybe had the same sound, what's your take? I've heard of stretched timing chains/chain slack, water pump, clutch issues, etc., but want to narrow it down.
You get the contrast here, and toward the end I nearly over-lap the shots to hear them closer together. [URL] ....
Under the hood/car. [URL] ....
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I've got error P0440 on my 2001 Echo about a week ago and cleared it, then I got it again today. It happened while driving, I was switching from 4th to 5th and the check engine lit up.
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When I turn the a/c on, sometimes the compressor engages and sometimes it does not. When it does, I feel the engine's idle change and out comes very cold air. After a few minutes or longer, no more cold air but the fan is still blowing. If I quickly turn the a/c off and then back on again this seems to jump start the compressor and poof, out comes the cool air again. Sometimes it will begin producing cool air again on its own but most of the time I have to resort to turning it off, then back on. I don't believe I have a leak because otherwise no cool air would be emitted at all or the quality of the cool air would be poor.
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I suspect that the 2006 Yaris rear hatch cylinder would work on my 2004 echo, so I got it from a u-pull. However it seems to be a bit gummed up with something, and I want to take it apart (far enough to rekey, basically).
I've got the spring clip off the back, and took out the back plate with the coil spring. I've cleaned up the metal cylinder and removed the spring at the back, but I don't know how to take the whole thing apart to clean the insides.
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