Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2009 - Steering Wheel Jerked To Left While Doing 60-65 Mph
Aug 31, 2014
Why would my 2009 Yaris suddenly jerk to the left while doing 60-65 mph? It would jerk hard only once, but did it 3 times within a few minutes tonight and once earlier today.
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So on my girlfriends 2000 echo I get the classic bad wheel bearing noise/vibration on the front left (driver side) wheel. Worsens under load (right turn) and goes away when unloaded (left turn). I've replaced left side bearing, CV axle, brake rotors/pads and the noise still persists. My next thought is maybe the ball joint but humming/vibration tells me something out of rotational balance. Bearing in the transmission? I don't know. I'm stuck.
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I have a 2002 toyota echo and about 2 months ago my front left wheel came off while driving and ever since it has been making a thumping noise that is related to the wheel speed. I have replaced the front struts and brakes but the noise is still there. There is also a whirring noise. I have ruled out wheel bearings, ball joints and tie rods. I noticed vertical play in the right cv axle. It moves up and down coming from the trans and not the knuckle. Could that be the noise?
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My wife's 2003 Echo has had some persistent issues. We've replaced the right front wheel bearing 3 times now, and the driver side front once.
The current issue is steering wheel vibration. It's hardly noticeable at 40mph, but gets serious around 60mph.
Some things I noticed when I took it for a spin today:
The right front wheel makes a clunk-squeak sort of sound on rough road. It has a looser feel at those times. Sort of like an old truck. Not a peep out of the driver's side.
The steering wheel vibration is not changed by shifting to neutral (it's an automatic). The vibration increases with speed, and is rougher at 50mph coming down on a coast from 60 than it is accelerating up from 40.
The vibration is reduced with slight braking and stops with heavy braking. In turns where the weight of the car is shifted to the right side, the vibration is reduced or stops. When the weight is shifted to the left (driver) side, there is no effect or it gets worse.
Uphill seems to be worse than downhill.
The car does not drift to either side when the steering wheel is released when not vibrating, and doesn't have much wander even with the wheel vibrating.
It does not clunk or squeal when turning or braking.
The mileage is 115k.
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Basically, when I make a hard left turn I hear a noise out of the front right wheel area. I do not hear anything in any other condition. It sounds like something rubbing up against something else. I know that my rims are in good shape - is this an outer or inner bearing issue? Or is this something completely different?
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For the last few months, I have been chasing down steering problems. Alignment, end links, ball joints... and now, humming. Every time I take a turn that requires more than 1/4 turn of the steering wheel, the car hums. It wasn't very noticeable at first, but over the last week it has gotten much louder.
I have topped off my PS fluid and replaced my belts, but this has not solved the issue. Before I start replacing a pump and/or a steering rack.
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Yesterday I replaced what I thought was a bad front passenger wheel bearing, I removed the hub myself and took the hub to a local dealer to press out the old bearing and press in the new one.
Took the part back to the shop, got everything all assembled and took it out for a test drive. Right away I notice I still here the same noise, possibly even worse then before.
It was already late in the day so I decided to clean up and call it a day. During my trip home I notice everytime I turned the wheel to the left I here a horrible grinding noise, I did not have this sound before changing the wheel bearing.
Second guessing my own work, I took the car to the mechanic down the road today, not the same place that pressed the new bearing in. The mechanic inspected my work and couldn't find any problems at all. Even the ball joint I thought I had ruined was fine.
He inspected both from wheels for play, no play in either wheel. He then put the car up on the hoist while I remained in the car turning the wheel and accelerating. We were not able to reproduce the sound with the vehicle on the hoist, even with his stethoscope he could not here any noise coming from bearings on either front wheel. Everything sounds great with the car in the air, it's just when it's on the ground when there are problems.
Rotated all tire just to make sure it wasn't an oddly loud broken tire belt, once again no change.
I did replace the stabilizer link kit as well since the old one broke while during the wheel bearing replacement. Is there anyway I could have done something wrong with the stabilizer link that could cause this noise? I doubt this is the case since the mechanic did have a look at it.
I'm still assuming it's the front passenger wheel bearing, but don't wan't to go replacing parts I don't need. (I put a new fuel pump in my TJ 2 weeks ago only to discover all I really needed to repair was the broken wire going to the pump )
So just to be clear my car only makes this noise when it is on the ground, when the car is in the hoist I can turn the wheel and accelerate without any noise.
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When I turn my wheel to the right, there is a scraping noise. Like, metal on metal. The more I turn, the more intense the sound. Does not affect driving performance, but it does sound problematic. As I turn the wheel, it starts making a scrape-scrape-scrape noise. It sounds like it could be a shield or wheel bearing, but I'm really not sure.
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know the torque value for a 2009 yaris oil pan bolts? In another forum somebody quoted a value of 6.6 foot pounds, that seems too small and the wrong value to me.
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In my 2001 Toyota Echo I have a noise in my suspension but I don't know where it is coming from. I made a video of me pushing down on the hood to produce the noise. I notice it when i turn the wheel at low speed, or even just driving at low speed. There is enough power steering fluid. The sound is a groaning, kind of like a rusty hinge.
Video with suspension noise ....
Suspension pics ....
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info on changing the drive and power steering belts. I recently changed them on a 2003 Echo and took some pictures.
There are 2 belts on the Echo engine. A drive belt and a power steering belt. In order to remove the power steering belt you must, first, remove the main drive belt. If changing one it may be best to change both.
First remove right front wheel. Use jack stands to support the vehicle. Do not rely on a jack to hold it up. Next remove the passenger side front bumper cover. I feel it best to remove the cover as then you can do a test drive before enclosing everything. You can, if you wish, just lower cover to give access to the drive belts. With the cover removed, check the power steering pulley and make sure that you have access to the adjusting bolt. This bolt is accessed thru an opening in the pulley. See last picture.
Here are 2 pictures of the bumper cover installed and removed.
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I've noticed a leak (oil or coolant?) that seems to be dripping from the left half of the passenger foot well. What could be the cause of this leak...
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This happens many times especially when I am parking parallel and need to take reverse frequently. The steering kind of jams, then vibrates and then the car engine is off. I need to restart every time this happens. This is causing fear to drive the car on highways.
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When I turn the steering wheel on the spot without the car moving, I get a popping noise which sounds like its coming from just behind the steering wheel. It sometimes happens when im turning and reversing out of my driveway. No noise coming from engine bay or wheels.
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I have a 2009 Yaris and it started acting like it was stalling out. It won't accelerate. It bogs down. Check engine light is on and when tested got a code of P0353. This means the third coil is bad. I did the check but it seemed to be ok.
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How to reset service light after a oil change ?
I have a 2009 yaris.
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I just bought a used 09 yaris, 5 speed manual tranny. There seems to be a small coolant leak on the top hose coming from the radiator, the one that connects to a plastic flange or adapter and then go's to the engine block. The car does not get hot and it drive fine except it leaks at that spot. I try using a regular hose clamp and still leaked. Is the thermostat not opening up or is the water pump intermittent stopping? or something like that. Or maybe the hose itself is bad. Since this is a used car who knows what the previous owner did, I might change out the hose over the weekend and replace all the coolant to the correct Toyota long life system. to be on the safe side.
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I'm getting a rubbing type of noise when i'm turn right and it sounds like a rubbing noise perhaps its a wheel bearing? how easy/hard is that to change. The noise is most notable when I'm on the highway and I'm making a left lane change or if I'm coming or going on a off ramp (left).
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When ever my car is parked on a slope for 5 min I go to drive it and the car spudders when I accelerate.. when i leave it on flat ground after its perfect again.
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My wife's 2003 Echo is sitting at 255 000 KM's (Canada) and has hardly had a days problem.However yesterday tried starting and completely dead-not battery as almost new. Ignition makes clicking noise-lights/radio etc all working.Called the BCAA ( Vancouver) the guy tapped with a pole on something in the engine and voila she started. He said something about the starter or starter solenoid-today again the car is dead. Will take it to the mechanic on Monday but how do I get it started meanwhile ? what did the BCAA guy do and what did he tap on ?
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Was looking at some new side skirts for my 4d 2000 toyota echo but mine currently has the black plastic trim going completely around it. Are these easily removed? Like, are they clipped on?
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