Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2008 Toyota - Grinding Noise When Braking And ABS Light Is Off
Apr 20, 2016
I have a 2008 Toyota Yaris Hatchback with only 60,000 KMs.
I have been having a lot of problems with this cars ABS and brakes. For a few months now, the ABS Light and "!" will come on and off throughout my drive to work and home. Also, sometimes when I hit the brakes it makes a LOUD grinding noise and when I'm holding down the brakes the car doesn't stop as fast, it kind of like skids. Now, I've noticed that this noise only occurs when the ABS light is OFF. When the ABS light and brake light come on, NO noise what so ever.
I've gone to multiple mechanics and replaced almost everything you can name for brakes (pads, drum, rotor, etc.). I've also tried replacing the ABS sensor wires, but still I am experiencing the same problems. It's really frustrating because the noise only happens sometimes, and of course it never makes the noise when the mechanics in the car with me.
I've made a video of the noise it makes, you can check it out here ......
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In January I had taken my car in for an oil change. About a Month later my check engine light comes on. I pull over and there is no oil cap. Why the light hadn't come on before then is beyond me. I also park on grass so didnt notice it. I took it to advanced auto to see what the code for the light was and it said that the engine was running lean. Is this connected? and if so how? I am driving a 2008 Toyota Yaris Hatchback
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Yesterday I replaced what I thought was a bad front passenger wheel bearing, I removed the hub myself and took the hub to a local dealer to press out the old bearing and press in the new one.
Took the part back to the shop, got everything all assembled and took it out for a test drive. Right away I notice I still here the same noise, possibly even worse then before.
It was already late in the day so I decided to clean up and call it a day. During my trip home I notice everytime I turned the wheel to the left I here a horrible grinding noise, I did not have this sound before changing the wheel bearing.
Second guessing my own work, I took the car to the mechanic down the road today, not the same place that pressed the new bearing in. The mechanic inspected my work and couldn't find any problems at all. Even the ball joint I thought I had ruined was fine.
He inspected both from wheels for play, no play in either wheel. He then put the car up on the hoist while I remained in the car turning the wheel and accelerating. We were not able to reproduce the sound with the vehicle on the hoist, even with his stethoscope he could not here any noise coming from bearings on either front wheel. Everything sounds great with the car in the air, it's just when it's on the ground when there are problems.
Rotated all tire just to make sure it wasn't an oddly loud broken tire belt, once again no change.
I did replace the stabilizer link kit as well since the old one broke while during the wheel bearing replacement. Is there anyway I could have done something wrong with the stabilizer link that could cause this noise? I doubt this is the case since the mechanic did have a look at it.
I'm still assuming it's the front passenger wheel bearing, but don't wan't to go replacing parts I don't need. (I put a new fuel pump in my TJ 2 weeks ago only to discover all I really needed to repair was the broken wire going to the pump )
So just to be clear my car only makes this noise when it is on the ground, when the car is in the hoist I can turn the wheel and accelerate without any noise.
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I have a 2004 Echo with the 5 speed manual. Everything is factory original on this car except the tires. (159,000 km). While turning hard to the right at low speeds or pulling away from a stop and turning right, I get a harsh grinding/scraping noise and it seems to be coming from the drivers front wheel. If it was a CV joint, or wheel bearing, wouldn't it make noise all the time?
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I'm troubleshooting my sons 2000 Echo with a manual transmission. No reverse light. Very puzzling? The red wire with blue stripe in the trunk area is always hot. Makes no difference if the shifter is in reverse gear or not. Yet, the reverse lamps don't come on. I removed both bulbs and tested them at the battery using jumpers. They both come on. I have not gone under the car yet. My question is: does this car have a neutral start switch, and a back up light switch. If yes, which switch is feeding the other? Any pictures of where these switches are located? My guess is that the back up light switch is faulty, if there is one.
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I have an 07 Toyota Vitz and Side lamps, Tailgate lamps and number plate light are remaining off... Normal and bright works fine...
Checked fusses and are all good.
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I have an automatic 2002 Echo. Like 2 or 3 days ago I started hearing a noise when I drive in reverse. Is a mix of friction and vibration and it gets louder the faster I drive, only in reverse. I read that this could be the symptom of a bad engine mount but I haven't been able to pinpoint it.
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When I turn the steering wheel on the spot without the car moving, I get a popping noise which sounds like its coming from just behind the steering wheel. It sometimes happens when im turning and reversing out of my driveway. No noise coming from engine bay or wheels.
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How do you remove a right rear 2001 Toyota echo tail light assembly?
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I have a 2001 Toyota echo 2001 210.200 km and my output shaft bearing makes noise and I cant know the level of my transmission fluid bcoz I don't have dipstick and i bought trans 75w90 oil os that ok and how can I add this?
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I have a 2001 Echo 5-speed that I bought it November. Loving it so far. One thing I've noticed is an electronic-like whistling sound whenever I'm applying light throttle. The sound goes away if I left off the throttle, or if I give it more gas. When I say light throttle, it's when I'm applying enough pressure to maintain maybe 1500 RPM in neutral, so not much. It's only at that specific point that I'll hear the noise, and it's in all gears and not related to vehicle speed. I've searched through the usual channels but didn't find anything related.
In the few months before I bought it the previous owner had the MAF sensor, alternator, and water pump replaced by the dealer so those components are covered under the 1 year/20k parts warranty if they may be a culprit. I'm hoping to narrow down what the problem could be before I take it in for routine service anyways.
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Just bought little Echo and it's blowing hot air when the ac is on if I turn the ac off with the selector in the blue it's still hot. I used the gauge off a old ac recharger can and its showing the right amount of Freon and the compressor clutch is spinning. I am really wanting to fix it cheap , since I got it for 1200.
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I have a 2000 Echo, Automatic, and I have a grinding sound that appears to be coming from the passenger side of the vehicle, under the hood. I had my A/C replaced, and new drive and power steering belts put in, 1,400 miles ago. I have noticed the sound is bad in park or neutral, seems to quiet down if I put it in Drive or Reverse while the engine is cool, and is particularly bad at highway speeds. I live 10 miles from my mechanic, on a highway, and am hesitant to drive it to them as it is all highway or rural roads (45 mph plus).
I drove it about 15 miles from when sound started (barely noticeable) to when I stopped and had it towed home. Belt deflection appears to be only about .3 in, manual I have calls for .43 to .51, but I may not be measuring it right....
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I have a 2010 Toyota Yaris four door. When I am stopped while in drive, the front left part of the vehicle rattles, sounds like it is around the front driver-side tire. If I change the car into Neutral, Reverse, or Park it will go away, but Drive or any of the lower gears will cause the rattle. I have only had the car for about 2 months and it has been doing this for a couple weeks.
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I checked the archives and found nothing of value for my particular problem. My wife has a 2008 Yaris, and we can't get the trunk to open with the key. The only way to get in is with the trunk release lever just inside the drivers door.
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How to change a 2003 toyota echo blower motor.... Looking for a step by step directions ....
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I am buying a Toyota Echo that the engine shakes on Idle and the shaking increase a bit when the AC is On ....
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I have a 2000 Toyota Echo. Symptoms are, the car drives fine until warmed up. Once warmed up, about 10 min or so, there is surging, an inability to maintain idle, periodic loss of brake assist, all consistent with my p1349 code. This happened about two months after I changed my oil (the old oil was in there for an embarrassingly long time). I ran motor flush and again changed the oil; symptoms persist. I have removed the OCV and OCV screen; both look fairly clean. Here's the question: what checks can be done on the OCV itself before I call a bad OCV and replace it? The service manual was of only marginal quality in explaining any checks.
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is it possible to install an analog temperature gauge on a 2001 Toyota Echo? I live right on the Canadian border here in Mn. and it gets very cold. I have plenty blast from the heater fan but I don't think it's running warm enough. I had a new thermostat installed but it didn't seem to make any difference.
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how to remove the gear shift console on a 2001 TOYOTA ECHO?
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I just bought a 2001 Toyota Echo and wondering the procedure for checking the automatic tranny fluid. It doesn't say a word in the owner manual on how to do it. I know most vehicles you have it warmed up and check it in Park while idling.
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