Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2008 - Door Unlocking Failure With Button On Key And Driver Side Panel
May 5, 2016
I have a 2008 Toyota Yaris. A few weeks ago my driver's side rear door stopped unlocking with the button on the key and the button on the driver's side door panel. About 2 weeks ago it started to work again, but just for 1 day; then it went right back to not working. About a week ago my passenger side door did the exact same.
I looked up the issue online and found that people with 07 RAV4s. An owner a RAV4 took the actuator in the door apart and found that the copper contacts had charred. After scraping with extremely fine sand paper and steel wool, and then reassembly of the door, the lock worked.
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My Toyota 2010 Yaris (5 door) has a electronic key locking issue. when locking the car with the smart key you will hear the mechanisms for all the doors locking then straight away the locking sound of the drivers door will go off again. all the doors will be locked except the drivers door. the drivers door still locks manually using the key but will not lock electronically. just want to know if there is a simply answer to this or something more sinister.
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So I left my lights on because there was no warning buzzer to tell me so. This happened once before when the driver door would not turn on the dome light. I went for the door switch and it was bent. Bent it back and buzzer worked and dome light worked.This time nothing. Switch is ok. traced wire from switch and it is ok.
2000 Echo stickshift.
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It's not the bulb or the fuse, but my wife's driver's side brake light is out (only the stop light portion). Where should I look next?
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I have a 2005 Toyota Echo with no sunroof.
When there is heavy rain, I end up with extremely damp carpets in the driver's side. There is also water which looks as though it has leaked from running do the driver's side of the windscreen.
I have a strong suspicion that there is a leak in the windscreen, down the driver's side or at the bottom, but are there any other locations or suggestions that could be causing the leak ?
Also, if I take it in, is it possible just to replace the seal round the windscreen, or will the whole windscreen need to be replaced ?
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Troubleshoot and diagnosis an occasional squeak from the front driver-side tire (FDST) on my 2004 Echo (4dr sedan). I have tried to figure out under what conditions I hear the squeaking and this is what I've come up with:
FDST usually starts to squeak after the car has warmed up.
It is not constant, but does seem to be consistent as a the tire rotates (as if it is the same spot(s) per tire revolution).
It is audible mainly during acceleration at low speeds (less than 50 km/h).
There is absolutely no squeaking or sound if I apply the brakes.
There is no squeaking at higher speeds (greater than 60 km/h).
I can pretty consistently reproduce the squeaking if I just slightly turn the steering wheel to the left.
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I have a 2005 Toyota Echo that has just recently developed a problem with the driver side low beam headlamp. When I hit the light with my hand then it comes to normal but when I switch off the car engine and restart then again no lowbeam lights.
I thought one of my bulbs had burned out and when check the bulb so I found a small piece broken in bulb glass so I replace it with new one and then.
The one working was went off and the one bulb replace start working then I took off both bulb and swap with each other and now..
When the lights are on low-beam the bulbs barely light and if I switch to high-beam only driver side works and passenger side no low/high beam.
Both parking and turn-signal works perfectly However. Somebody suggested that the ground wire of headlight could be damage/faulty.
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2002 toyota echo ... I can't get the button on the shifter lever to go in. It isn't the overdrive button. The cable was replaced last fall but this seems to be a new problem ...
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01 Echo, there are two backlights (L & R) for the instrument panel, one of which isn't working even with a good bulb so I figured it might be a fuse. Which fuse would control the left side backlight?
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I have a Toyota Echo 1999 1.5 VVTi. Lately the Instrument panel / Dashboard has been intermittently turning off / on while driving. Its one of those digital instrument panels.
Fuses seem good , Dimmer switch works (only when the instrument panel is illuminated!) The other lights (none digital) on the dash work such handbrake , temp etc. always work fine, just the digital Instruments are causing the issue.
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So on my girlfriends 2000 echo I get the classic bad wheel bearing noise/vibration on the front left (driver side) wheel. Worsens under load (right turn) and goes away when unloaded (left turn). I've replaced left side bearing, CV axle, brake rotors/pads and the noise still persists. My next thought is maybe the ball joint but humming/vibration tells me something out of rotational balance. Bearing in the transmission? I don't know. I'm stuck.
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The engine starts, the throttle actuates, the dash lights and dome light work, the radio even works, but the fan does not, and neither does the air conditioner.
Turning the fan knob produced almost a whispering whining sound which soon stopped, and the AC compressor refuses to engage when the button is pressed.
One code popped up- P2118. I have read in other parts of the forum that this indicates a throttle actuator control motor current failure, but as I said, the throttle actuates, and the accelerator pedal works as intended. I reset that code, but I'm halfway dreading its return.
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Was looking at some new side skirts for my 4d 2000 toyota echo but mine currently has the black plastic trim going completely around it. Are these easily removed? Like, are they clipped on?
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I checked the archives and found nothing of value for my particular problem. My wife has a 2008 Yaris, and we can't get the trunk to open with the key. The only way to get in is with the trunk release lever just inside the drivers door.
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I have an 07 Toyota Vitz and Side lamps, Tailgate lamps and number plate light are remaining off... Normal and bright works fine...
Checked fusses and are all good.
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I can't get my front (passenger side) motor mount out because it's under the refrigerant line. How would I do that? There is a black, coiled "jacket" that goes around the line right before it enters the back of the radiator, can I detach it there? The line snakes all over the engine compartment and appears to be bolted onto the radiator on one end and the other end goes through a clamp and into the dash area. [URL]....................
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I have a 2009 Toyota Yaris with water dripping from under dash on passenger side when a/c is on. What it is and how to fix ?
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In January I had taken my car in for an oil change. About a Month later my check engine light comes on. I pull over and there is no oil cap. Why the light hadn't come on before then is beyond me. I also park on grass so didnt notice it. I took it to advanced auto to see what the code for the light was and it said that the engine was running lean. Is this connected? and if so how? I am driving a 2008 Toyota Yaris Hatchback
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I have a 2008 Yaris and the handbrake freezes when engaged (I set it after parking but then can't get it to release, leaving me stranded). Is this just poor design? I managed to force it to disengage with a screwdriver but I now no longer use the handbrake/parking brake for fear of this happening again.
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I just recently replaced my alternator and battery in my 08 Toyota yaris and it's still not holding a charge. My blinkers, radio, and heating and air won't come on , also my wheel is hard to turn and in order to shift gears I have to push down the white button near the shift stick. I'm so confused as to what else could be going wrong and my mechanic can't seem to figure things out my last resort is the dealership but I'm thinking that would be expensive
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I have a 2008 Toyota Yaris Hatchback with only 60,000 KMs.
I have been having a lot of problems with this cars ABS and brakes. For a few months now, the ABS Light and "!" will come on and off throughout my drive to work and home. Also, sometimes when I hit the brakes it makes a LOUD grinding noise and when I'm holding down the brakes the car doesn't stop as fast, it kind of like skids. Now, I've noticed that this noise only occurs when the ABS light is OFF. When the ABS light and brake light come on, NO noise what so ever.
I've gone to multiple mechanics and replaced almost everything you can name for brakes (pads, drum, rotor, etc.). I've also tried replacing the ABS sensor wires, but still I am experiencing the same problems. It's really frustrating because the noise only happens sometimes, and of course it never makes the noise when the mechanics in the car with me.
I've made a video of the noise it makes, you can check it out here ......
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