Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2005 - Heat Does Not Work / Fuel Gauge Is Not Accurate
Aug 5, 2012
I have a 2005 ECHO. Heat does not work. Water pump appears to be fine. The fan works fine. AC works great but I just don't have any heat. When i turn the temperature dial all the way to hot- the fan still blows cold. How I can fix this?
Also, my fuel gauge is not accurate. I will fill the tank and it will still read empty and will slowly go to the right level. Could it be a bad gas cap? Its got 145km.
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I own a 2000 echo. Anyways, the fuel gauge reads 3/8 of a tank. It does not matter how full or empty the tank is the gauge needle does not move. I have replaced the sender with a new ND unit and swapped out the cluster. I have also checked for loose/broken wires and bad contacts. Nothing I have done so far has worked. What else should I be looking for?
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Yaris 2006 Fuel Gauge. How much fuel is in the tank begins to blink when the last (lowest) level indicator box? According to the manufacturer's technical data for the reservoir has a volume of 42 l so that, if the indicator is divided into eight levels, should mean that at the start blinking in a tank remaining 42/8 = 5.25 l. Checked this? And how much is left when you start "blinking faster"?
Statement of kilometers that still can not get the remaining fuel in the tank, at least for me, unreliable and virtually useless - probably was chosen because of those who drive hundreds of miles, with nearly constant spending on long highway tours. And to me it happens about once a year. The data in the display are obviously obtained by dividing the remaining amount of fuel consumption average. It would be more useful to Yaris, you already know that the remaining amount of fuel, the display and print it over to my calculations, I knew I would Ceme - by his calculations, we are rarely used.
Perhaps the simplest way to what the Yaris is calculated back to that from which it started and get what we are interested in:
For example. If the display says that the average consumption of 5 l/100km and that the available fuel may even exceed 150 km should mean that the left in the tank for 5/100 x 150 = 7.5 liters.
It seems to me that this sentence correct, I see no other way he could predict how many kilometers could go with the remaining fuel.
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2000 Echo, I noticed the other day the heat was half as warm as it should be. The blower is still moving air the same as it always has. The upper radiator hose is hot, the lower is cold. About the same temp as the air in the 30's. The line going in to the heater core and coming out are both really warm. I thought is was the thermostat so I had it replaced to day by a local shop who does good work. The problem persists with the same symptoms. The car has yet to have the high temp light come on.
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2002 Echo, automatic, 190k miles, no troubles with it. My AC and Heat have always blown out the vents, regardless of the direction that I want them to come from. The dial that should send them through the vents, the dash, and at your feet doesn't really do that much to send the air anywhere except through the vents.
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My 2002 Echo doesn't seem to be producing much heat. I have a scangauge installed, and it shows my temperatures around 75-80 C while our current temperatures here are around -20 C. I'm getting a bit of heat out of the vents but hardly enough to keep me warm.
I noticed that the coolant temperature will also drop a bit when I'm sitting idle listening to the radio before heading into our building at work. From about 85C to 70C, and the vents blow cold air.
My Radiator & Expansion tank are filled to proper level. I have just installed some cardboard inside the grille to try and block some of the cold air from entering. I haven't tested this out yet though.
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Where the blower resistor is? I ordered one with the advice of the parts department but I do not know where it is located. I'm going to check under the glove compartment because I couldn't find it in the compartment in front of the gear shift and under the radio.
Symptom on 2000 Toyota Echo: Low fan speeds do not work. Only high speed works.
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is it possible to install an analog temperature gauge on a 2001 Toyota Echo? I live right on the Canadian border here in Mn. and it gets very cold. I have plenty blast from the heater fan but I don't think it's running warm enough. I had a new thermostat installed but it didn't seem to make any difference.
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My horn doesn't work consistently. Problem started about 6 months ago. Airbag never been deployed. Never wrecked the car. No liquids ever spilled on steering wheel. There is nothing that could be identified as a precipitating event.
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i have a Echo 2005,140 000 km,AC.Changed antifreeze with a proper mixture(bought from Toyota). Changed the thermostat(from Toyota) as well and flushed the radiator with water at the mechanics garage.The water was going out from the bottom hose on a steady flow. Yesterday drove my daughter back from school, distance around 10 km(5-6 miles around),ambient temp.was about 15 degrees Celsius(around 59F), 3 traffic lights, 4 stops at the last traffic light the fan turned on and worked for 5 sec. I can`t imagine what will happen in the summer when its 40 C(around 104 F). No AC on, no defrost on, water pump its not leaking and its not noisy. I used to have 2000 Echo did pizza deliveries, i ve heard the fan only in very hot weather ,never in such conditions. Same with my Corolla, never heard the fan in such conditions. Actually at the last traffic light the only car with a working fan was mine.
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I have an incredibly reliable 03 Echo, manual trans that has never had any issues starting or running well. TODAY, I started it and about a block down the road is sputtered and stopped. The engine is turning over powerfully when I turn the key and it tries to start for a couple seconds then just turns over. It's like it's not getting any fuel.
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I'm trying to get my neice car going. .I went to move her car yesterday after a snowstorm and it idled fine but would bog down when I pressed on the accelerator. While it was running I checked to see if the air filter was dirty, it was and as soon as I pulled the snorkel off the car stalled. I put everything back in place and after running for a half hour it seemed fine. She drove to school but before she got there it started to bog down again so she pulled into a Toyota dealer. Later they changed spark plugs, new air filter and cleaned MAF sensor. Worked better until the next day, now it will crank over but will not even make an attempt to start. I tried to clean the sensor with rubbing alcohol but no luck.
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I have 2005 ECHO with 117000 km on it. I would like to know when is the time to change brake fluid. I did some research in TOYOTA web-sites but nobody mentioned it.
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Just bought a 2005 Toyota echo 2 door. I'm getting it this week, just getting detailed and all that good stuff. I want to add mods to it, such as cold air intake, muffler and much more. Sadly it's an automatic but it will do. Any link to a website for a cold air intake?
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So I have a 2000 Echo with about 129k miles on it. I parked it in my driveway for the winter to drive my SUV in the snow (I live in Wisconsin).
After a couple months of the bite of the gas mileage difference I dug her out and noticed that the drivers side rear wheel was locked up. I presumed it was simply due to it sitting in snow for a long while. So I jacked up the rear, popped the tire off and WHAM, a rusted through pipe falls flat on the floor of my garage.
I trace it back to a port right behind the fuel intake - tho not the main intake line itself. I then find its other half, still connected via rubber tubing to a black hub of sorts.
Here are some pictures with a vision of what I am talking about:
The entire hose in two pieces:
The port where the hose was connected by the fuel intake:
The port on the hub where the rubber sided other half of the hose connects:
The hose pieces side by side on the trunk of the car for scale:
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2005 Echo auto 120,000 km
I have intermittent misfiring (a few seconds every couple minutes) and get the codes 301 and sometimes 304/300. I cant drive out of my driveway without a sputter and when I turn into a parking spot or make a quick stop the problem is magnified. I initially suspected a wiring / coil issue but here are my results:
Shuffled coil packs. (1/2 & 3/4)
Shuffled fuel injectors.
Good compression.
Swapped ECM.
Inspected wiring harness.
Goof EFI / cutoff relays.
None of these led to any change in the codes (300, 301, 304)
Yesterday I swapped the fuel pump and it worked flawlessly for an hour of city driving (first time in two months) ... then the issue returned as before.
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I have a 2005 Toyota Echo that has just recently developed a problem with the driver side low beam headlamp. When I hit the light with my hand then it comes to normal but when I switch off the car engine and restart then again no lowbeam lights.
I thought one of my bulbs had burned out and when check the bulb so I found a small piece broken in bulb glass so I replace it with new one and then.
The one working was went off and the one bulb replace start working then I took off both bulb and swap with each other and now..
When the lights are on low-beam the bulbs barely light and if I switch to high-beam only driver side works and passenger side no low/high beam.
Both parking and turn-signal works perfectly However. Somebody suggested that the ground wire of headlight could be damage/faulty.
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I just bought this car, had front brakes put on, rotors. I have noticed with stop and go in traffic that the engine revs and I have to hold the car back. Also when I release the brake there is like a light click or thump. Sometimes it makes the small sound when I put the brake on.
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I have a 2000 echo that recently will not allow me to fill the gas tank unless I do it very slowly. Otherwise it continually trips the pump nozzle.
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When ever my car is parked on a slope for 5 min I go to drive it and the car spudders when I accelerate.. when i leave it on flat ground after its perfect again.
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My wife's 2003 Echo is sitting at 255 000 KM's (Canada) and has hardly had a days problem.However yesterday tried starting and completely dead-not battery as almost new. Ignition makes clicking noise-lights/radio etc all working.Called the BCAA ( Vancouver) the guy tapped with a pole on something in the engine and voila she started. He said something about the starter or starter solenoid-today again the car is dead. Will take it to the mechanic on Monday but how do I get it started meanwhile ? what did the BCAA guy do and what did he tap on ?
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