Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2005 - Driver Side Low Beam Headlamp Barely Light
Apr 13, 2015
I have a 2005 Toyota Echo that has just recently developed a problem with the driver side low beam headlamp. When I hit the light with my hand then it comes to normal but when I switch off the car engine and restart then again no lowbeam lights.
I thought one of my bulbs had burned out and when check the bulb so I found a small piece broken in bulb glass so I replace it with new one and then.
The one working was went off and the one bulb replace start working then I took off both bulb and swap with each other and now..
When the lights are on low-beam the bulbs barely light and if I switch to high-beam only driver side works and passenger side no low/high beam.
Both parking and turn-signal works perfectly However. Somebody suggested that the ground wire of headlight could be damage/faulty.
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It's not the bulb or the fuse, but my wife's driver's side brake light is out (only the stop light portion). Where should I look next?
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My Toyota 2010 Yaris (5 door) has a electronic key locking issue. when locking the car with the smart key you will hear the mechanisms for all the doors locking then straight away the locking sound of the drivers door will go off again. all the doors will be locked except the drivers door. the drivers door still locks manually using the key but will not lock electronically. just want to know if there is a simply answer to this or something more sinister.
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I have a 2005 Toyota Echo with no sunroof.
When there is heavy rain, I end up with extremely damp carpets in the driver's side. There is also water which looks as though it has leaked from running do the driver's side of the windscreen.
I have a strong suspicion that there is a leak in the windscreen, down the driver's side or at the bottom, but are there any other locations or suggestions that could be causing the leak ?
Also, if I take it in, is it possible just to replace the seal round the windscreen, or will the whole windscreen need to be replaced ?
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Troubleshoot and diagnosis an occasional squeak from the front driver-side tire (FDST) on my 2004 Echo (4dr sedan). I have tried to figure out under what conditions I hear the squeaking and this is what I've come up with:
FDST usually starts to squeak after the car has warmed up.
It is not constant, but does seem to be consistent as a the tire rotates (as if it is the same spot(s) per tire revolution).
It is audible mainly during acceleration at low speeds (less than 50 km/h).
There is absolutely no squeaking or sound if I apply the brakes.
There is no squeaking at higher speeds (greater than 60 km/h).
I can pretty consistently reproduce the squeaking if I just slightly turn the steering wheel to the left.
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So I left my lights on because there was no warning buzzer to tell me so. This happened once before when the driver door would not turn on the dome light. I went for the door switch and it was bent. Bent it back and buzzer worked and dome light worked.This time nothing. Switch is ok. traced wire from switch and it is ok.
2000 Echo stickshift.
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I have a 2008 Toyota Yaris. A few weeks ago my driver's side rear door stopped unlocking with the button on the key and the button on the driver's side door panel. About 2 weeks ago it started to work again, but just for 1 day; then it went right back to not working. About a week ago my passenger side door did the exact same.
I looked up the issue online and found that people with 07 RAV4s. An owner a RAV4 took the actuator in the door apart and found that the copper contacts had charred. After scraping with extremely fine sand paper and steel wool, and then reassembly of the door, the lock worked.
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I have an 07 Toyota Vitz and Side lamps, Tailgate lamps and number plate light are remaining off... Normal and bright works fine...
Checked fusses and are all good.
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I just bought this car, had front brakes put on, rotors. I have noticed with stop and go in traffic that the engine revs and I have to hold the car back. Also when I release the brake there is like a light click or thump. Sometimes it makes the small sound when I put the brake on.
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So on my girlfriends 2000 echo I get the classic bad wheel bearing noise/vibration on the front left (driver side) wheel. Worsens under load (right turn) and goes away when unloaded (left turn). I've replaced left side bearing, CV axle, brake rotors/pads and the noise still persists. My next thought is maybe the ball joint but humming/vibration tells me something out of rotational balance. Bearing in the transmission? I don't know. I'm stuck.
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i have a Echo 2005,140 000 km,AC.Changed antifreeze with a proper mixture(bought from Toyota). Changed the thermostat(from Toyota) as well and flushed the radiator with water at the mechanics garage.The water was going out from the bottom hose on a steady flow. Yesterday drove my daughter back from school, distance around 10 km(5-6 miles around),ambient temp.was about 15 degrees Celsius(around 59F), 3 traffic lights, 4 stops at the last traffic light the fan turned on and worked for 5 sec. I can`t imagine what will happen in the summer when its 40 C(around 104 F). No AC on, no defrost on, water pump its not leaking and its not noisy. I used to have 2000 Echo did pizza deliveries, i ve heard the fan only in very hot weather ,never in such conditions. Same with my Corolla, never heard the fan in such conditions. Actually at the last traffic light the only car with a working fan was mine.
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Was looking at some new side skirts for my 4d 2000 toyota echo but mine currently has the black plastic trim going completely around it. Are these easily removed? Like, are they clipped on?
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I'm trying to get my neice car going. .I went to move her car yesterday after a snowstorm and it idled fine but would bog down when I pressed on the accelerator. While it was running I checked to see if the air filter was dirty, it was and as soon as I pulled the snorkel off the car stalled. I put everything back in place and after running for a half hour it seemed fine. She drove to school but before she got there it started to bog down again so she pulled into a Toyota dealer. Later they changed spark plugs, new air filter and cleaned MAF sensor. Worked better until the next day, now it will crank over but will not even make an attempt to start. I tried to clean the sensor with rubbing alcohol but no luck.
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I have 2005 ECHO with 117000 km on it. I would like to know when is the time to change brake fluid. I did some research in TOYOTA web-sites but nobody mentioned it.
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Just bought a 2005 Toyota echo 2 door. I'm getting it this week, just getting detailed and all that good stuff. I want to add mods to it, such as cold air intake, muffler and much more. Sadly it's an automatic but it will do. Any link to a website for a cold air intake?
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I have a 2005 ECHO. Heat does not work. Water pump appears to be fine. The fan works fine. AC works great but I just don't have any heat. When i turn the temperature dial all the way to hot- the fan still blows cold. How I can fix this?
Also, my fuel gauge is not accurate. I will fill the tank and it will still read empty and will slowly go to the right level. Could it be a bad gas cap? Its got 145km.
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I can't get my front (passenger side) motor mount out because it's under the refrigerant line. How would I do that? There is a black, coiled "jacket" that goes around the line right before it enters the back of the radiator, can I detach it there? The line snakes all over the engine compartment and appears to be bolted onto the radiator on one end and the other end goes through a clamp and into the dash area. [URL]....................
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I have a 2009 Toyota Yaris with water dripping from under dash on passenger side when a/c is on. What it is and how to fix ?
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2005 Echo auto 120,000 km
I have intermittent misfiring (a few seconds every couple minutes) and get the codes 301 and sometimes 304/300. I cant drive out of my driveway without a sputter and when I turn into a parking spot or make a quick stop the problem is magnified. I initially suspected a wiring / coil issue but here are my results:
Shuffled coil packs. (1/2 & 3/4)
Shuffled fuel injectors.
Good compression.
Swapped ECM.
Inspected wiring harness.
Goof EFI / cutoff relays.
None of these led to any change in the codes (300, 301, 304)
Yesterday I swapped the fuel pump and it worked flawlessly for an hour of city driving (first time in two months) ... then the issue returned as before.
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I'm trying to remove the tail light units from my 2002 Toyota Yaris.
I've removed the central nut from the inside but the light unit won't budge. There are two other protuberances coming through the metal body work which are a plastic spigot, lower left of the metal bolt, and rubber type insert further away to the upper right.
I'm also presuming that there is some stiction with the gasket.
Even with the nut removed the outside of the unit has zero movement while the inside has a slight amount of flex.
Am I missing something?
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The check engine light has been going on and off for a couple of months. I took it in to be looked at and the mechanic said they couldn't get a code, couldn't get a "good read" on what was wrong. They said I could take the car back (but they couldn't give me an inspection sticker) and drive it for a couple of days and if the light comes on, take it back to them. If the light doesn't come on after a few days, they will give me the sticker. I can't believe my car is going to act any differently than it has for the last few months -- light comes on sometimes, sometimes it doesn't. Shouldn't the mechanic be able to tell what's wrong.
have a 2005 Scion with about 60,000 miles.
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