2004 Echo........
When I use my key to unlock the car door, I can turn the key and get all the dash lights but I don't hear a sound.
When I use the remote unlock, and try the same thing, my car starts. Is this a problem with the security system?
Toyota verso 2001. Well the other night went out to car and noticed the inside lights were dim, battery was nearly flat. Now I had been out in car around 2 hours before. Recharged battery next day and car would not start.
Called brake down out. As he could not find anything wrong he tried to access the ecm. He could not connect to it. Later after he left, I checked every fuse and relay. Inc fuses on side of battery. All ok.
But the thing is the immobiliser LED is out even when the doors are shut and ignition off. So I suspect power to or the imobilizer ecu itself. I have checked ecm but that only shows engine ok. On computer. Other software I have only starts at 2004 so will not read immobilizer faults codes.
My wife and I had a 1995 Tercel for 15 years and loved it. We are looking to buy a 200k 2000 Echo from a neighbor (it was originally purchased in Canada). It is generally well maintained, and a one owner car, and we know the owner pretty well. There are extensive records. The engine is solid. The only problem with it is the two inches below EACH door is very rusty. It is rusted through entirely. Basically, the bottom two inches along the bottom of the door is plain missing. It is rusted out pretty badly.
The frame seems fine. The car is cheap. Up here in the cold north, the rust will only get worse.
I don't care about looks, but I do care about safety and function. Is there a safety or function issue with such a rusted car, if the frame is okay? How long can I drive the car before it ceases to function or be safe?
When my car is still and not moving it is quiet, and the noise does not exist.
As soon as the car starts moving, the noise starts and speeds up and slows down with the speed. The noise is there when i brake or when I don't brake, so I don't believe it has anything to do with the breaks.
To me (who knows nothing about the mechanics of a car) it seems like the wheel is not sitting on the road evenly.
I took it to the Toyota service centre and they said that they found a piece of loose metal somewhere and they can't hear any noise. But the noise was still evident as soon as i got back in the car and drove off. They checked the car over, and said it's fine.
I drove my brothers brand new Rav 4 to see if perhaps I am being overly sensitive with this sound and perhaps maybe it is just the sound of the tire on the road, but his car made no such sound.
It's not overly evident. I have to point it out to people, but once they hear it, they also say that it shouldn't make that sound.
I have a 2002 Toyota Echo that had been sitting for a few months. Recently I tried to start it and it will not start. It sounds like it is wanting to start and occasionally starts for a brief moment but then instantly dies. I have been doing some research to see what could be the problem and my guess is that pulley on the ac compressor is not turning.
My first question I guess is whether that sounds correct or could it be something that I am overlooking.
My second question is, if it is the compressor, how can I fix it. I do not want to replace the compressor, I have seen how much this can cost. I would prefer to just eliminate the ac all together. I saw a question on yahoo in a similar case where someone mentioned a bypass pulley, but I haven't been able to find any for my vehicle.
I have a 2003 Toyota Echo with 250,000 miles. It has been a great car as I commute 90 miles to work. I have had no major problems with the car. Unfortunatly it recently died on the way to work. It was running great and then all the sudden it sputtered and killed. When I first tried to start the car it would just turnover but after waiting 10 minutes it started back up (this was a cold morning). When it started it was running great again. I drove it another 15 minutes and it all the sudden died again. This happened 3 times.
I have hooked up to a scan tool and a camshaft position sensor code displayed. I replaced that but had no change. Another code came up as mass air flow sensor. I purchased a used one of those and still no change.
I have started the car up numerous times and always have the same results. It starts right up, idles good, speeds up good and runs good at full throttle. The problem becomes when it warms up the car kills. If I run it at idle to a slow acceleration it takes longer to kill than if I run the car at full throttle. Once it kills it will not start up until the car cools down, but once it cools down it will start right back up.
I am trying to disable the drl on my gf's 2004 echo but I can't seem to find the drl relay box. its not the same as the yaris cause I tried looking after I saw a link here but where it is?
View 2 RepliesI inherited my stepson's 2004 Echo. It's in great shape still aside from the fact it won't start. There's been a new battery, alternator and spark plugs put in recently. There are no codes coming up when I plug in the reader I have. So what is happening is that when I try to start it - it sounds like it almost wants to start but just doesn't fire up. I'm wondering if it's something to do with the fuel? There's no indicator lights that come up either.
View 1 RepliesI just got an used Echo, and it seems that the hatch light switch is a bit sensitive. However, I couldn't find it anywhere on the frame, or near the lock. I even have access to the docs and didn't see a reference of it.
View 1 RepliesI've owned my '04 echo since new. It now has 172,000 km on it. It still has the factory original shocks and struts in it. Surely its time to replace them. I've never owned a car that used struts before. Now I have read here before if they aren't leaking then they are ok.
I guess I could do the old shock test of bouncing the car up and down and see how many times the car bounces after you stop pushing up and down on the fenders. The car just seems to ride harsher over the bumps in the road now.
I have a 2004 Echo with the 5 speed manual. Everything is factory original on this car except the tires. (159,000 km). While turning hard to the right at low speeds or pulling away from a stop and turning right, I get a harsh grinding/scraping noise and it seems to be coming from the drivers front wheel. If it was a CV joint, or wheel bearing, wouldn't it make noise all the time?
View 3 RepliesTroubleshoot and diagnosis an occasional squeak from the front driver-side tire (FDST) on my 2004 Echo (4dr sedan). I have tried to figure out under what conditions I hear the squeaking and this is what I've come up with:
FDST usually starts to squeak after the car has warmed up.
It is not constant, but does seem to be consistent as a the tire rotates (as if it is the same spot(s) per tire revolution).
It is audible mainly during acceleration at low speeds (less than 50 km/h).
There is absolutely no squeaking or sound if I apply the brakes.
There is no squeaking at higher speeds (greater than 60 km/h).
I can pretty consistently reproduce the squeaking if I just slightly turn the steering wheel to the left.
I've noticed a leak (oil or coolant?) that seems to be dripping from the left half of the passenger foot well. What could be the cause of this leak...
View 3 RepliesMy daughter picked up an 08 Base, option package #1 yesterday. It has 166K miles and checked out okay by me (coolant moving by inverter pump, no signs of water in spare tire well...etc.). The car only had 1 key fob (non-SKS) wit no spare key or fob. The key is uncut but the remote starts and runs the car. The remote will not lock or unlock the doors.
The first thing I did was replace the CR2032 battery with no change. It still operated the car but not the locks. I noticed that the little red light wasn't coming on when pushing the buttons and found the red panic button was stuck. Took care of that and thought all was good until I tried to lock and unlock the doors again. Nope! Light comes on, works in slot to start the car, but not the locks.
Last night, my son went to grab something out of the car so I dont know what he did but when my wife went to use the car, all the doors were locked. The headlights were on. The car was not running.
We were unable to unlock the doors with either remote. I believe it would beep 3 times but wouldn't unlock. I had to use the key built into the remote to get the doors unlocked.
When ever my car is parked on a slope for 5 min I go to drive it and the car spudders when I accelerate.. when i leave it on flat ground after its perfect again.
View 5 RepliesMy wife's 2003 Echo is sitting at 255 000 KM's (Canada) and has hardly had a days problem.However yesterday tried starting and completely dead-not battery as almost new. Ignition makes clicking noise-lights/radio etc all working.Called the BCAA ( Vancouver) the guy tapped with a pole on something in the engine and voila she started. He said something about the starter or starter solenoid-today again the car is dead. Will take it to the mechanic on Monday but how do I get it started meanwhile ? what did the BCAA guy do and what did he tap on ?
View 2 RepliesWas looking at some new side skirts for my 4d 2000 toyota echo but mine currently has the black plastic trim going completely around it. Are these easily removed? Like, are they clipped on?
View 3 RepliesI'm trying to remove the tail light units from my 2002 Toyota Yaris.
I've removed the central nut from the inside but the light unit won't budge. There are two other protuberances coming through the metal body work which are a plastic spigot, lower left of the metal bolt, and rubber type insert further away to the upper right.
I'm also presuming that there is some stiction with the gasket.
Even with the nut removed the outside of the unit has zero movement while the inside has a slight amount of flex.
Am I missing something?
know the torque value for a 2009 yaris oil pan bolts? In another forum somebody quoted a value of 6.6 foot pounds, that seems too small and the wrong value to me.
View 3 RepliesJust bought little Echo and it's blowing hot air when the ac is on if I turn the ac off with the selector in the blue it's still hot. I used the gauge off a old ac recharger can and its showing the right amount of Freon and the compressor clutch is spinning. I am really wanting to fix it cheap , since I got it for 1200.
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