Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2004 - Occasional Squeaking From Front Driver Side Tire
Aug 13, 2013
Troubleshoot and diagnosis an occasional squeak from the front driver-side tire (FDST) on my 2004 Echo (4dr sedan). I have tried to figure out under what conditions I hear the squeaking and this is what I've come up with:
FDST usually starts to squeak after the car has warmed up.
It is not constant, but does seem to be consistent as a the tire rotates (as if it is the same spot(s) per tire revolution).
It is audible mainly during acceleration at low speeds (less than 50 km/h).
There is absolutely no squeaking or sound if I apply the brakes.
There is no squeaking at higher speeds (greater than 60 km/h).
I can pretty consistently reproduce the squeaking if I just slightly turn the steering wheel to the left.
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So on my girlfriends 2000 echo I get the classic bad wheel bearing noise/vibration on the front left (driver side) wheel. Worsens under load (right turn) and goes away when unloaded (left turn). I've replaced left side bearing, CV axle, brake rotors/pads and the noise still persists. My next thought is maybe the ball joint but humming/vibration tells me something out of rotational balance. Bearing in the transmission? I don't know. I'm stuck.
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My Toyota 2010 Yaris (5 door) has a electronic key locking issue. when locking the car with the smart key you will hear the mechanisms for all the doors locking then straight away the locking sound of the drivers door will go off again. all the doors will be locked except the drivers door. the drivers door still locks manually using the key but will not lock electronically. just want to know if there is a simply answer to this or something more sinister.
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It's not the bulb or the fuse, but my wife's driver's side brake light is out (only the stop light portion). Where should I look next?
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I can't get my front (passenger side) motor mount out because it's under the refrigerant line. How would I do that? There is a black, coiled "jacket" that goes around the line right before it enters the back of the radiator, can I detach it there? The line snakes all over the engine compartment and appears to be bolted onto the radiator on one end and the other end goes through a clamp and into the dash area. [URL]....................
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I have a 2005 Toyota Echo with no sunroof.
When there is heavy rain, I end up with extremely damp carpets in the driver's side. There is also water which looks as though it has leaked from running do the driver's side of the windscreen.
I have a strong suspicion that there is a leak in the windscreen, down the driver's side or at the bottom, but are there any other locations or suggestions that could be causing the leak ?
Also, if I take it in, is it possible just to replace the seal round the windscreen, or will the whole windscreen need to be replaced ?
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I have a 2005 Toyota Echo that has just recently developed a problem with the driver side low beam headlamp. When I hit the light with my hand then it comes to normal but when I switch off the car engine and restart then again no lowbeam lights.
I thought one of my bulbs had burned out and when check the bulb so I found a small piece broken in bulb glass so I replace it with new one and then.
The one working was went off and the one bulb replace start working then I took off both bulb and swap with each other and now..
When the lights are on low-beam the bulbs barely light and if I switch to high-beam only driver side works and passenger side no low/high beam.
Both parking and turn-signal works perfectly However. Somebody suggested that the ground wire of headlight could be damage/faulty.
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I have a 2008 Toyota Yaris. A few weeks ago my driver's side rear door stopped unlocking with the button on the key and the button on the driver's side door panel. About 2 weeks ago it started to work again, but just for 1 day; then it went right back to not working. About a week ago my passenger side door did the exact same.
I looked up the issue online and found that people with 07 RAV4s. An owner a RAV4 took the actuator in the door apart and found that the copper contacts had charred. After scraping with extremely fine sand paper and steel wool, and then reassembly of the door, the lock worked.
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I'm getting a rubbing type of noise when i'm turn right and it sounds like a rubbing noise perhaps its a wheel bearing? how easy/hard is that to change. The noise is most notable when I'm on the highway and I'm making a left lane change or if I'm coming or going on a off ramp (left).
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So I left my lights on because there was no warning buzzer to tell me so. This happened once before when the driver door would not turn on the dome light. I went for the door switch and it was bent. Bent it back and buzzer worked and dome light worked.This time nothing. Switch is ok. traced wire from switch and it is ok.
2000 Echo stickshift.
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Was looking at some new side skirts for my 4d 2000 toyota echo but mine currently has the black plastic trim going completely around it. Are these easily removed? Like, are they clipped on?
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I have an 07 Toyota Vitz and Side lamps, Tailgate lamps and number plate light are remaining off... Normal and bright works fine...
Checked fusses and are all good.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Yaris with water dripping from under dash on passenger side when a/c is on. What it is and how to fix ?
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I am trying to disable the drl on my gf's 2004 echo but I can't seem to find the drl relay box. its not the same as the yaris cause I tried looking after I saw a link here but where it is?
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I inherited my stepson's 2004 Echo. It's in great shape still aside from the fact it won't start. There's been a new battery, alternator and spark plugs put in recently. There are no codes coming up when I plug in the reader I have. So what is happening is that when I try to start it - it sounds like it almost wants to start but just doesn't fire up. I'm wondering if it's something to do with the fuel? There's no indicator lights that come up either.
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I have a 2002 echo, and I need some work done on it. I'm pretty sure that my engine mounts are bad, and I know that my front bushings are shot. What should I expect to pay for the bushings/mounts to be replaced? Also, how do I know if my engine mounts are bad? Note that I am a college student living on campus, so doing the bushings will be next to impossible.
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I have a 2002 toyota echo and about 2 months ago my front left wheel came off while driving and ever since it has been making a thumping noise that is related to the wheel speed. I have replaced the front struts and brakes but the noise is still there. There is also a whirring noise. I have ruled out wheel bearings, ball joints and tie rods. I noticed vertical play in the right cv axle. It moves up and down coming from the trans and not the knuckle. Could that be the noise?
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I just replaced the drums, shoes and hardware.
Everything went together with out issue but now when I put on the brakes there is a clicking noise coming from the passenger side, kind of like something is hanging up. sounds like one of the springs are loose. But when I took the drum off everything is tight and nothing is out of alignment.
Do drums need a break in period? Wondering if maybe there is a sharp edge and its making the shoe uneven on the drum and causing if to hang up when I put on the brakes.
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Basically, when I make a hard left turn I hear a noise out of the front right wheel area. I do not hear anything in any other condition. It sounds like something rubbing up against something else. I know that my rims are in good shape - is this an outer or inner bearing issue? Or is this something completely different?
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I have a 2000 Echo, Automatic, and I have a grinding sound that appears to be coming from the passenger side of the vehicle, under the hood. I had my A/C replaced, and new drive and power steering belts put in, 1,400 miles ago. I have noticed the sound is bad in park or neutral, seems to quiet down if I put it in Drive or Reverse while the engine is cool, and is particularly bad at highway speeds. I live 10 miles from my mechanic, on a highway, and am hesitant to drive it to them as it is all highway or rural roads (45 mph plus).
I drove it about 15 miles from when sound started (barely noticeable) to when I stopped and had it towed home. Belt deflection appears to be only about .3 in, manual I have calls for .43 to .51, but I may not be measuring it right....
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I just got an used Echo, and it seems that the hatch light switch is a bit sensitive. However, I couldn't find it anywhere on the frame, or near the lock. I even have access to the docs and didn't see a reference of it.
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