Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2004 Echo Won't Start?
Nov 2, 2015
I inherited my stepson's 2004 Echo. It's in great shape still aside from the fact it won't start. There's been a new battery, alternator and spark plugs put in recently. There are no codes coming up when I plug in the reader I have. So what is happening is that when I try to start it - it sounds like it almost wants to start but just doesn't fire up. I'm wondering if it's something to do with the fuel? There's no indicator lights that come up either.
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My wife's 2003 Echo is sitting at 255 000 KM's (Canada) and has hardly had a days problem.However yesterday tried starting and completely dead-not battery as almost new. Ignition makes clicking noise-lights/radio etc all working.Called the BCAA ( Vancouver) the guy tapped with a pole on something in the engine and voila she started. He said something about the starter or starter solenoid-today again the car is dead. Will take it to the mechanic on Monday but how do I get it started meanwhile ? what did the BCAA guy do and what did he tap on ?
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I have a 2003 automatic Echo, 200 000KM. I was on the highway with the A/C ON and i suddenly noticed it started blowing warm air(because it was a hot day). I was a bit on a rush so i decided to just roll down the windows and keep on. Once i was on a red light, i noticed i could hear a sound, coming from the straps(wich seemed logic to me since the A/C stopped) The sound was a kind of continuous screeching. It also smelled a liitle bit like burnt plastic or rubber. So i stopped the car, check under the hood, saw nothing, so I decided to start it again. After like 50m, it stopped by itself, and now i can't start it. I even tried to jump start it with a buddy's car and nothing changed! I still have some battery, everything works, but the starter wont even "click" when i engage it...
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My ac compressor just went out in my 03 Echo and now the car won't even start. I believe the pulley on the ac seized up b/c the belt won't turn and it just makes a horrible squealing noise when you try to turn the engine over. Right now I'm too broke to get a new ac compressor so I figured I'd just replace the belt with one that bypasses the ac altogether. Is this possible with the 03 Echo? And if so, any diagram or pic of the engine with and without the ac belt on it? I need my car back on the road asap...
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I am trying to disable the drl on my gf's 2004 echo but I can't seem to find the drl relay box. its not the same as the yaris cause I tried looking after I saw a link here but where it is?
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I've been having trouble getting my 2001 toyotoa echo to start in the cold weather and STAY Idling. All I can do to keep the car going is hold my foot on the gas until it warms up, then it stays running, low idle, but running. It starts fine the rest of the day, but that first start in the morning doesn't take. The check engine light comes on and stays on, and the car seems to idle rough at stops.
At first the Mechanic I took it to (good guys) cleaned out my throttle body (physically and chemically) and this seemed to solve the problem for a couple weeks. I'm located in Toronto, Canada, and we're heading into cold weather and I just want a car that starts. It started up again recently and I'm now being told (on my second visit to the mechanic) that it's my throttle body/idle control and that this part needs to be replaced, to the tune of 627.00 + labour.
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I've owned my '04 echo since new. It now has 172,000 km on it. It still has the factory original shocks and struts in it. Surely its time to replace them. I've never owned a car that used struts before. Now I have read here before if they aren't leaking then they are ok.
I guess I could do the old shock test of bouncing the car up and down and see how many times the car bounces after you stop pushing up and down on the fenders. The car just seems to ride harsher over the bumps in the road now.
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I have a 2004 Echo with the 5 speed manual. Everything is factory original on this car except the tires. (159,000 km). While turning hard to the right at low speeds or pulling away from a stop and turning right, I get a harsh grinding/scraping noise and it seems to be coming from the drivers front wheel. If it was a CV joint, or wheel bearing, wouldn't it make noise all the time?
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I've always find solution to solve my little issues with my Toyota Echo 2004 Hatchback. Since last summer, my car seems to have a lot of problems to idle well with the fine rpm. Here are all the events :
-it all started last summer, when the motor would start to idle really high for a couple of minutes, before getting back to normal. When this happened, a p011 check engine would light up. I switched to synthetic oil, and it greatly reduce the number of time this happen, but it didn't solve it entirely. It usually happens when the motor is warm, but still not hot.
-Only once, during a long ride, I got a check engine. When I left the highway, my motor wouldn't stop idling high. stop/start the motor wouldn't change anything. I checked the check engine codes, if I remember well : p011, p016 and misfire. With a friend, we checked the crankshaft sensor, and it was really dirty, so we washed it, and it solved the problem! A few days after, I also change my spark plug because they were starting to be old.
-A few weeks ago, I started my car and it was idling high as usual to heat up faster (it is winter now). But then, the rpm suddenly drop really quickly. The rpm was really low for may be 2 seconds, and it nearly chokes, but just before it went up back to normal. Then low/high/low/high until the motor was hot. No check engine. I disconnected the battery for a few minutes, and when I reconnected it, the problem was solve. I also checked the air filter, but it wasn't dirty.
-Then, sometimes when I start my car, idling is fine but suddenly at a red light the motor start to run really low with a lot of vibrations and a bad smell. Stop and restart the motor solve the problem! But only until the next red light, or until the motor is warm enough. Still no check engine.
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I've noticed a leak (oil or coolant?) that seems to be dripping from the left half of the passenger foot well. What could be the cause of this leak...
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Was looking at some new side skirts for my 4d 2000 toyota echo but mine currently has the black plastic trim going completely around it. Are these easily removed? Like, are they clipped on?
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Just bought little Echo and it's blowing hot air when the ac is on if I turn the ac off with the selector in the blue it's still hot. I used the gauge off a old ac recharger can and its showing the right amount of Freon and the compressor clutch is spinning. I am really wanting to fix it cheap , since I got it for 1200.
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how to remove the headlights from an '02 echo? I'm trying to paint the headlight bezel, and can't seem to get the headlights out.
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My Echo is giving me problems. The red thermostat light has been coming off and on for the past two months. I had the radiator, fan and thermostat replaced. It started blinking again after two days. I took it to a mechanic that tested to see if it had a head gasket blown. That wasn't the problem. The mechanic said it was the water pump. I had the water pump replaced today and drove approximately 12 miles home when the red light started blinking again.
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Echo 2003 2 door
Running lights: OK
Headlight mode, the running light stay illuminated but the head lights don't come on and the high beam light illuminates.
It feels like a relay but I don't know where to start. Had to drive home in the dark with the moon light my way home. I'd prefer to not do that again.
Found two 10A fuses under the hood. Both blown
The connectors to the lights are corroded and strangely, covered in oil. I could not find an oil leak (Problem with previous owner?)
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The lights were left on and ran battery down. Tried to jump start but would not start. Installed new battery, won't start, won't turn over, no click, nothing. Lights and dash board lights work. Changed starter relay, checked/changed fuses, took starter out and tested it 4 times at Autozone. Starter is good. Checked switch under clutch, it's good. Checked ignition with voltmeter, checks good. Checked fusable links with voltmeter. Checks good. Why won't this car start! I can push it off and it runs fine, that's how I got it home. I'm getting 12 volts to the starter.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Echo with automatic trans. and it won't shift into 4th. or overdrive when it's colder out. I know they're designed to stay in 3rd. gear till it gets warmed up some for 2 or 3 miles. But this morning it was down to 6 above in northern Mn. and I took it on the hiway and drove it for 53 miles and it never did go into 4th. or overdrive. It was OK last winter even in 20 to 30 below.
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Mother in laws car had a bad misfire that goes away during idle. It seems to misfire during take off or slowing to a stop and Intermittently during cruise.
Came in with codes p0300 - random misfire and p0304 misfire cylinder 4
What I have done so far.
-Checked the oil
-Checked the plugs - they were bad so replaced them with ngk plugs
-part number - BKR5EGP
Misfire was showing in cylinder 4 on live data still
-Swapped coil 4 and 1
-Misfire moved to cylinder 1
-Swapped cylinder 1 with 3 to be extra sure and mis stayed on 1
-Swapped back to 4 and even 2 mis stayed in 1. Weird
-Pulled all plugs and checked compression getting 170psi
-Swapped plugs around in case 1 is faulty no luck
-Swapped number 1 and 2 injectors with no change.
So my thoughts now are leaning towards an ecm or a valve thing but would those not be on or off fails? It idles great and cruises great it's only bad we coming to and leaving stop.
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My 2003 echo has a noisy manual transmission. The former owner put a salvaged tranny in it. Reverse sounds terrible.The car has 373000kms on it. I'm going to change the transmission oil this week. Any recommendation as to oil type? Should I put in Lucas oil treatment.
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I recently noticed that the airbag light of my 2001 Echo never comes on and is off all the time.
What can be the reason? Is the fuse blown?
If the fuse is blown, shouldn't there be an alarm or warning indication? I mean, because airbag is a the main safely feature in a car, shouldn't there be a warning mechanism to simply indicate that it does not work at all?
BTW, can a battery change have caused this? I changed the battery a while ago but never noticed this issue until now.
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I'm troubleshooting my sons 2000 Echo with a manual transmission. No reverse light. Very puzzling? The red wire with blue stripe in the trunk area is always hot. Makes no difference if the shifter is in reverse gear or not. Yet, the reverse lamps don't come on. I removed both bulbs and tested them at the battery using jumpers. They both come on. I have not gone under the car yet. My question is: does this car have a neutral start switch, and a back up light switch. If yes, which switch is feeding the other? Any pictures of where these switches are located? My guess is that the back up light switch is faulty, if there is one.
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