Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2002 - No Cold Air But The Fan Still Blows
Nov 14, 2012
When I turn the a/c on, sometimes the compressor engages and sometimes it does not. When it does, I feel the engine's idle change and out comes very cold air. After a few minutes or longer, no more cold air but the fan is still blowing. If I quickly turn the a/c off and then back on again this seems to jump start the compressor and poof, out comes the cool air again. Sometimes it will begin producing cool air again on its own but most of the time I have to resort to turning it off, then back on. I don't believe I have a leak because otherwise no cool air would be emitted at all or the quality of the cool air would be poor.
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My 2002 Echo doesn't seem to be producing much heat. I have a scangauge installed, and it shows my temperatures around 75-80 C while our current temperatures here are around -20 C. I'm getting a bit of heat out of the vents but hardly enough to keep me warm.
I noticed that the coolant temperature will also drop a bit when I'm sitting idle listening to the radio before heading into our building at work. From about 85C to 70C, and the vents blow cold air.
My Radiator & Expansion tank are filled to proper level. I have just installed some cardboard inside the grille to try and block some of the cold air from entering. I haven't tested this out yet though.
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The other day I was leaving work and I switched on the ac. I heard an audible popping noise and the air immediately stopped being cold. I pulled over and popped the hood, it smelled like freon and I'm sure it was mixed with compressor oil as there is oil stains all around the compressor now. Did I blow my compressor? Is there a blow off valve that could have been tripped? The compressor is not kicking on now, I don't know if it is blown or this is due to all the freon spraying out? It had been squealing on startup for a little while, I assumed it was a belt.... 2002 echo....
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My husband and I have a 2007 Yaris (purchased new in May '07) with 23,300 miles on it. He's super-religious about taking the car in and getting it serviced and maintained regularly. But we noticed a few days ago that the A/C wasn't putting out cold air. My first thought is that it's simply out of freon and needs to be serviced.
But it just seems odd (or at least to this know-nothing!) that it could be out of freon already. My husband mainly drives it and says he doesn't run the air "any more than anyone else." Is it possible that even at 14 months it's just simply out of freon? I've never heard of a car's A/C system running out of freon so quickly.
Also, we were out of town for a week; the car wasn't driven during that time. We noticed the problem the first time we drove it upon returning home. That couldn't have anything to do with it, could it?
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I installed a new Goodyear alternator belt on our 07 Yaris couple months back and it started squealing after the first day and only during a cold start. My past experience has taught me that it's normally due to a loose belt (when belt is new) so I tightened it just a bit. After 3 days it started squealing again. I've increased the tension on the belt three times now and the squealing has not gone away. It's only on cold starts and only for about 1 minute. If memory serves me right there is no tensioner for the alternator belt. It would appear that it doesn't matter how tight the belt is, it still squeals on cold starts.
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I have a 2002 echo with 168K miles. My car was doing fine but I decided to change the air filter and spark plugs because I had a feeling the person I bought it from hadn't done it. All spark plugs needed to be changed (first 2 were hand loose also). I put in autolite platinum ( I believe bosch platinum were in there). All was fine until 5 days later the car started sputtering at acceleration at 40 mph. Then a few days later it would sputter at first pressing gas then again at 30mph and at 40mph. I let it go and read to clean air flow sensor but haven't yet.
About 2 weeks later it finally produced a code that cylinder 2 misfired. I noticed at that point the sputtering would only be when warmed up. I was going to put in bosch's to see if that would fix it but instead just had time to inspect plugs and coils. Nothing seemed wrong so I put them back in for now. This was Saturday.Echo ran fine until this morning. Now it is sputtering at 40mph. I assume if i let it go it will do the same thing. Can it be the spark plugs are bad and I should be using bosch's or is there another problem i should be looking at?
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My 2000 Echo's A/C didn't blow cold. It turns out the low side pressure was fine, but the compressor wasn't turning. I read somewhere that the A/C compressor's clutch eventually wears down so it doesn't grab the pulley anymore, and that sometimes removing spacers can move the clutch enough to allow it to grab. I took off the bolt on the compressor pulley and the spacer fell off. I put the bolt back on, and now I'm COOL!
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When cold and not running, the shift lever sticks especially in 1st or 2nd and lacks that springy return to center. When cold running, Almost impossible to get in and out of 1st and 2nd, 3rd-5th stiff but manageable. After 5-7 min of driving, Shifts like butter. Tranny fluid has been replaced with amsoil syn.
This wasn't a progressive condition, shifted great one day (approx 2 weeks ago), next morning the fun began!
Is there anything other the control cable that cause the extremely sticky shifting when the car is off?
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Just bought a 2005 Toyota echo 2 door. I'm getting it this week, just getting detailed and all that good stuff. I want to add mods to it, such as cold air intake, muffler and much more. Sadly it's an automatic but it will do. Any link to a website for a cold air intake?
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how to remove the headlights from an '02 echo? I'm trying to paint the headlight bezel, and can't seem to get the headlights out.
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Mother in laws car had a bad misfire that goes away during idle. It seems to misfire during take off or slowing to a stop and Intermittently during cruise.
Came in with codes p0300 - random misfire and p0304 misfire cylinder 4
What I have done so far.
-Checked the oil
-Checked the plugs - they were bad so replaced them with ngk plugs
-part number - BKR5EGP
Misfire was showing in cylinder 4 on live data still
-Swapped coil 4 and 1
-Misfire moved to cylinder 1
-Swapped cylinder 1 with 3 to be extra sure and mis stayed on 1
-Swapped back to 4 and even 2 mis stayed in 1. Weird
-Pulled all plugs and checked compression getting 170psi
-Swapped plugs around in case 1 is faulty no luck
-Swapped number 1 and 2 injectors with no change.
So my thoughts now are leaning towards an ecm or a valve thing but would those not be on or off fails? It idles great and cruises great it's only bad we coming to and leaving stop.
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The stock air conditioning system in my 2003 Echo failed abruptly last week. The air no longer blows cold when the system is turned on. I've also noticed that the engine "hum" no longer changes frequency (gets lower because of what I assume is the added load) when I turn the A/C on. I checked the fuse and it looks intact.
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I've already replaced the Alternator and Water Pump today and I still cannot get rid of the noise and cold start squeal. The squeal goes away after the engine is warmed. A/C Compressor?
[URL] ....
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My 2002 Echo Sportivo is losing power on hills,which is bad news as live in a hilly district. If I don't get a run up i.e lights change it's 40km/h all the way with my foot to the floor and lots of angry drivers behind me. Apart from this runs well?
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My car started popping out of reverse a little while ago and its started happening more often. I asked my mechanic uncle about it and he said its probably the synchronous. From my understanding, that means a rebuild of the tranny. I just got this car in Nov after writing off my Corolla in Oct. Is there anything else minor I could check?
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First car is an '02 echo and has some things that need to be done. Small exhaust leak, but i don't know where the leak is, how to find it, new one? Where to get replacement taillights, hole in mine.
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My Echo died on me this morning and would not restart. I was at a light at the time. I pushed it aside, waited a bit and it restarted. I made it to work and it died again after several hiccups along the way. It then died in my parking spot but would restart. It has 192k miles on it.
It was acting weird earlier this week in that it would lose power (not electricity) while moving and then continue on. It seemed to work if I gave it more throttle. I feel like its fuel related but I don't have a lot of spare money to guess at the problem unsuccessfully.
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I have owned my 2008 yaris sedan since new. With the temp knob turned to full cold, the air coming in (all vents I think) is always warmer than the outside air. This is annoying; I am forced to turn on the air conditioner even when the outside air is just right. I suspect that an internal flapper valve of some sort is not seating properly and is leaking warm air.
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I've been having trouble getting my 2001 toyotoa echo to start in the cold weather and STAY Idling. All I can do to keep the car going is hold my foot on the gas until it warms up, then it stays running, low idle, but running. It starts fine the rest of the day, but that first start in the morning doesn't take. The check engine light comes on and stays on, and the car seems to idle rough at stops.
At first the Mechanic I took it to (good guys) cleaned out my throttle body (physically and chemically) and this seemed to solve the problem for a couple weeks. I'm located in Toronto, Canada, and we're heading into cold weather and I just want a car that starts. It started up again recently and I'm now being told (on my second visit to the mechanic) that it's my throttle body/idle control and that this part needs to be replaced, to the tune of 627.00 + labour.
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I have a 2006 Scion XB I purchased last year. Last week the air was blowing cold in town and then blowing warm at highway speed. I took it to my mechanic who charged the system (said it was a pound low) and said he did not detect any leaks. Now suddenly it stops blowing cold altogether. Not all the time. It blows cold in the morning. Then in the afternoon when I leave work it blows hot. But I can stop the car a few miles down the road, turn the car off, start it back up, and it blows cold....
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I have a 2002 echo 1.3 vvti - will it has been running great and has 200000km on clock . However today i started it it ran for about 1 min then i heard a beeping from under the bonnet, the engine then stopped. The car will start and run for less than a sec then die. will not run no matter how much i play with the throttle .
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