Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2002 Echo Misfire And Lose Power When Accelerating
May 30, 2013
Driving on friday night, started to hear at idle the car rpms wavering. Drove home fine with no issues other than at idle. Then Sunday, drove the vehicle, and sometimes had issues when accelerating, seemed to misfire and lose power. Then when driving that day it died completely and wouldn't start. It turns, but no firing.
Got it towed to my place, ran the codes, showed 1300, 1305, 1310, and 1315. All to do with ignition coils. Did a quick spark check, and no spark at any cylinders. I figured it would be weird that all 4 would go at the same time, so i replaced the ECM instead. Still no spark. Where to go next? Also the car does have an immobilizer in it...that could be causing it to malfunction?
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Mother in laws car had a bad misfire that goes away during idle. It seems to misfire during take off or slowing to a stop and Intermittently during cruise.
Came in with codes p0300 - random misfire and p0304 misfire cylinder 4
What I have done so far.
-Checked the oil
-Checked the plugs - they were bad so replaced them with ngk plugs
-part number - BKR5EGP
Misfire was showing in cylinder 4 on live data still
-Swapped coil 4 and 1
-Misfire moved to cylinder 1
-Swapped cylinder 1 with 3 to be extra sure and mis stayed on 1
-Swapped back to 4 and even 2 mis stayed in 1. Weird
-Pulled all plugs and checked compression getting 170psi
-Swapped plugs around in case 1 is faulty no luck
-Swapped number 1 and 2 injectors with no change.
So my thoughts now are leaning towards an ecm or a valve thing but would those not be on or off fails? It idles great and cruises great it's only bad we coming to and leaving stop.
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I have a Toyota echo 2001 , manual 4 doors, My question is about when I climb a normal road the engine lose force the I reduced the speed form 4th to 2nd in order to continue my way, It is like the car is towing a truck, It s turns very slow. My question IT IS NORMAL?
The ECU only shows the 0420 Code And I know that It is about the cat because I replaced it for a generic. And the O2 secondary sensor voltage is like a wave.
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My car now has a little over 370,000 miles on her. The other day I noticed a hesitation while accelerating, like an instant loss of power/ jerk. It didn't do it much at first and the higher the RPM's the less it seemed to do this. Once I got the car up to 60/70 mph it was pretty much unnoticeable.
What it was. Thought maybe a vacuum leak. Nope. Maybe a bad TPS or CPS (didn't end up checking those), Thought maybe a bad injector or O2 sensor (didn't end up checking those either). I did try some fuel injector cleaner though but saw no change. I had a feeling it had to be a sensor or something because the motor itself runs great other than the intermittent misfire.
So I drive it in to work this morning. (1 hour drive each way) and aside from the minor hesitation/bucking/jerking while accelerating, everything went pretty smooth so long as I had the car up to highway speeds. So I get off from work and start driving home. The problem seemed to have disappeared completely for the first 3 or 4 miles, then all of a sudden it started up again. Only this time it had gotten much worse.
I could no longer get the car to go over 70mph and when I came to a stop the car sounded like it wanted to die (but never did). It took forever from a complete stop to get past all of the sputtering and hesitation/missing to get the car up to speed. It would keep cutting in and out (the motor bogging down, then gaining normal power for a second or two and so on and so forth). So I decide to take it to a shop to see if they can diagnose it.
The guy hooks up his code reader and looks at the car for a little bit out in the parking lot. All he could do was suggest to change the spark plugs and said that that was where he would start. So I went ahead and listened to what he said about the spark plugs (even though I knew there wasn't anything wrong with them because I had just changed them about a year ago). So I'm changing them out and when I take out cylinder 1's coilpack I notice it's wet. It seems somehow water or moisture had gotten down into there. So I dried everything off and changed the plug (the old one looked fine but I changed it anyway) and I went ahead and changed out all the rest of the plugs too (they all looked fine as well)
So after seeing the water around the #1 spark plug and coil pack, The injectors are right in front of there, so I decided to take the plug off the injector and take a look.
Sure enough, I took the plug off of the injector right in front of the #1 spark plug (far left spark plug) and wouldn't you know it, it had water down inside of it. I pulled the plug off of the injector next to it and it had water in it too (but not as much). How water could have gotten down in there but it did. I took a Q-tip and used it to dry up all the water down in there. Put everything back together and took it for a spin and everything was back to normal.
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Recently my car a 01 echo has been randomly losing power and accelerating slowing. Sometimes if I let off on the gas pedal and reapply it, it clears up and runs fines. There are no check engine lights and no codes stored. car has 213k miles on it.
I had replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, both o2 sensors and cat, have noticed a break behind the resonator could this be causing it?
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My 2002 Echo Sportivo is losing power on hills,which is bad news as live in a hilly district. If I don't get a run up i.e lights change it's 40km/h all the way with my foot to the floor and lots of angry drivers behind me. Apart from this runs well?
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2005 Echo auto 120,000 km
I have intermittent misfiring (a few seconds every couple minutes) and get the codes 301 and sometimes 304/300. I cant drive out of my driveway without a sputter and when I turn into a parking spot or make a quick stop the problem is magnified. I initially suspected a wiring / coil issue but here are my results:
Shuffled coil packs. (1/2 & 3/4)
Shuffled fuel injectors.
Good compression.
Swapped ECM.
Inspected wiring harness.
Goof EFI / cutoff relays.
None of these led to any change in the codes (300, 301, 304)
Yesterday I swapped the fuel pump and it worked flawlessly for an hour of city driving (first time in two months) ... then the issue returned as before.
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My friend has a 2003 Toyota Echo that is throwing a cylinder misfire code. Original code is P0302 and P0302PD. The car is idling rougher, kind of sounds like "put-put-put". Also, the car has no power at all. He lives on a hill and he can't even pull out of his driveway. Lastly, the smell of the exhaust is gassy.
We have changed out the spark plugs...no change. Next, we bought a new ignition coil for the number two cylinder...no change. So, maybe its the wiring. Put the new coil onto the number 3 cylinder and the number 3 coil onto the 2 cylinder. Low and behold, the misfire code changes to P0303 and P0303PD.
Thinking we might have gotten a dud of a coil, we bought another. Same thing...new coil on 2 code is P0302...new coil on 3, code is P0303. Could we just have gotten two bad coils? Oh, coils were a BWD brand coil and Duralast brand. Should we just go OEM from dealer? OR Denso from Advance Auto?
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how to remove the headlights from an '02 echo? I'm trying to paint the headlight bezel, and can't seem to get the headlights out.
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My car started popping out of reverse a little while ago and its started happening more often. I asked my mechanic uncle about it and he said its probably the synchronous. From my understanding, that means a rebuild of the tranny. I just got this car in Nov after writing off my Corolla in Oct. Is there anything else minor I could check?
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First car is an '02 echo and has some things that need to be done. Small exhaust leak, but i don't know where the leak is, how to find it, new one? Where to get replacement taillights, hole in mine.
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My Echo died on me this morning and would not restart. I was at a light at the time. I pushed it aside, waited a bit and it restarted. I made it to work and it died again after several hiccups along the way. It then died in my parking spot but would restart. It has 192k miles on it.
It was acting weird earlier this week in that it would lose power (not electricity) while moving and then continue on. It seemed to work if I gave it more throttle. I feel like its fuel related but I don't have a lot of spare money to guess at the problem unsuccessfully.
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I have a 2002 echo 1.3 vvti - will it has been running great and has 200000km on clock . However today i started it it ran for about 1 min then i heard a beeping from under the bonnet, the engine then stopped. The car will start and run for less than a sec then die. will not run no matter how much i play with the throttle .
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I just bought a 2002 echo recently and it started smoking blue. The car has 135000 miles which seems low to me to be blowing smoke so soon. I grew up around cars since my dad was a mechanic so I checked the compression on a cold engine. Cyl. 1 was 117psi, cyl. 2 was 134, cyl.3 was 127 and cyl. 4 was 117. I realize they are low but the car is blowing a pretty good amount. The car drives pretty good overall and seems to have power, i drove it on the freeway a few times and did 80mph fairly easy. I was wondering if this could possibly be valve stem seals gone bad? I will check the pcv valve as well. I really like the car and have read a lot of good things about the echo.
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I have a 2002 Echo sedan. I'd like to remove the rear seats completely for more storage (I am a musician). I was able to get the bottom foam off, but the seat "backs" are more stubborn. I see there are two bolts on the floor frame in the middle of the seat backs, and one bolt on each side of the seats where they meet the doors/frame. I tried to remove the bolts on the metal floor, but they do not budge... One socket wrench sheared right off while trying to spin it loose, and when I used a socket bit on my drill with an impact wrench attachment, it still wont budge... Are they locktitied in?
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My horn doesn't work consistently. Problem started about 6 months ago. Airbag never been deployed. Never wrecked the car. No liquids ever spilled on steering wheel. There is nothing that could be identified as a precipitating event.
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I have an automatic 2002 Echo. Like 2 or 3 days ago I started hearing a noise when I drive in reverse. Is a mix of friction and vibration and it gets louder the faster I drive, only in reverse. I read that this could be the symptom of a bad engine mount but I haven't been able to pinpoint it.
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My 2002 Echo doesn't seem to be producing much heat. I have a scangauge installed, and it shows my temperatures around 75-80 C while our current temperatures here are around -20 C. I'm getting a bit of heat out of the vents but hardly enough to keep me warm.
I noticed that the coolant temperature will also drop a bit when I'm sitting idle listening to the radio before heading into our building at work. From about 85C to 70C, and the vents blow cold air.
My Radiator & Expansion tank are filled to proper level. I have just installed some cardboard inside the grille to try and block some of the cold air from entering. I haven't tested this out yet though.
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I need to know what the resistance should be on my 2002 Echo's coils. I have an intermittent sputtering problem and it's driving me nuts! I put E3 spark plugs in the car about a year ago to improve the power and economy (it was on the original plugs at 160k miles!!) and they did work a lot but not long after that the sputtering problem started.
The car does have a code for the pre-converter O2 sensor but I replaced it, cleared the code and it keeps coming back. I have not pulled the codes recently but will in the next few days.
I've also read that the fuel filter is inside the gas tank but there is an access port under the back seat. I doubt that would cause the intermittent problem but I could be wrong.
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I have a 2002 echo, and I need some work done on it. I'm pretty sure that my engine mounts are bad, and I know that my front bushings are shot. What should I expect to pay for the bushings/mounts to be replaced? Also, how do I know if my engine mounts are bad? Note that I am a college student living on campus, so doing the bushings will be next to impossible.
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I have a 2002 Toyota Echo. I just purchases a Creader V code scanner. My car is throwing a P0171 code. The light only comes on at idle or while going under 10 mph.
The data from the reader was:
Trouble Code: P0171
Fuel System sta B1 : CL, using HO2S
Calculated Load: 11.76%
Coolant Temp 188.59 degrees
The Freeze frame data was:
ST Fuel B1: -3.91%
LF Fuel B1: 36.7%
Engine speed: 795.5 RPM
Vehicle speed: 0 mph
Intake Air Temp: 82.4 degrees.
I went back today and ran live feed on the O2 sensors. I'm not sure what STF of O2S: STF means. That was another figure displayed on my code scanner.
The O2S S1 was reading between .04 and about .82. The graph looked pretty normal (I guess) in regards to going up and back down between 0 and 1. I don't know alot about mechanics, but I seen a youtube video of a graph showing it going up and down and what is normal. Mine did that on S1.
O2S S1: STF was: 3.89 and -1.57%
O2S: S2 was a different story. It was between like .58 and .66.
The O2S S2: STF didn't give me a value at all. It just said " --% ". The graph of this was slowly going up but in a small range. It started at like maybe .4 and would go up to say .5. The next wave would be like .45 to .55, then .50 to .60, then .58 to .66 etc. So it was not ranging just between 0 and 1. It had a very tight range that gradually increased upwards.
I built my own smoke machine before testing with the code scanner and I didn't get any smoke coming out of the car except for around the air filter housing where the lid meets the bottom portion. I don't know if it's because I had the air filter wrapped in plastic wrap. Can I have an air leak where the filter cartridge connects that would case a lean code P0171? Maybe I should go try to smoke test again. I did it about 3 weeks ago and I can't recall exactly where I had the smoke going into. I thought I disconnected the PVC hose from the brake booster and plugged it in there. I assume the smoke would get thru the whole system. It took about 2 min before the smoke came out of the filter housing.
The car only sets a lean code at idle or going less than 10mph and I'm coasting in a residential area.
I have an inspection coming up in May and need to get this thing fixed before that. I can't find any other air leak, but I wasn't sure a leak around the filter would cause this and I'm not sure the leak wasn't caused by the plastic wrap.
I'm thinking my only other prob could be fuel related. Fuel filter, fuel pump, clogged injector, or can my O2 sensor be bad and causing this? I've already replaced all spark plugs and coils as well as the PVC valve and cleaned the MAF sensor with the appropriate spray.
The car runs ok. The exhaust seems to smell RICH. Like Gas. I don't think my fuel economy is as good as it use to be. It has dropped from as hi as 42 mpg to between 38 and 40 if I'm lucky.
Back when I was having problems before and realized I had a bad coil, I had tried some injector cleaner. Why the codes were back then, but I had erased them and the car ran fine for about 2 months and the light came back.
My MAF sensor was .14 lbs when I was watching the live data above. I plugged my fuel pressure tester directly into the fuel line coming from the fuel tank and got a reading of between 42 and 44 lbs (car not running, just by trying to turn the engine over). I don't know if that is as accurate (or useful) as having the fuel pressure tester on the car and in line to allow the car to start up and run and watch the tester. I have to wait until my part comes do run the test that way.
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