Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2002 Echo Dying At Idle / Sometimes Restarts
Aug 29, 2013
My Echo died on me this morning and would not restart. I was at a light at the time. I pushed it aside, waited a bit and it restarted. I made it to work and it died again after several hiccups along the way. It then died in my parking spot but would restart. It has 192k miles on it.
It was acting weird earlier this week in that it would lose power (not electricity) while moving and then continue on. It seemed to work if I gave it more throttle. I feel like its fuel related but I don't have a lot of spare money to guess at the problem unsuccessfully.
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Mother in laws car had a bad misfire that goes away during idle. It seems to misfire during take off or slowing to a stop and Intermittently during cruise.
Came in with codes p0300 - random misfire and p0304 misfire cylinder 4
What I have done so far.
-Checked the oil
-Checked the plugs - they were bad so replaced them with ngk plugs
-part number - BKR5EGP
Misfire was showing in cylinder 4 on live data still
-Swapped coil 4 and 1
-Misfire moved to cylinder 1
-Swapped cylinder 1 with 3 to be extra sure and mis stayed on 1
-Swapped back to 4 and even 2 mis stayed in 1. Weird
-Pulled all plugs and checked compression getting 170psi
-Swapped plugs around in case 1 is faulty no luck
-Swapped number 1 and 2 injectors with no change.
So my thoughts now are leaning towards an ecm or a valve thing but would those not be on or off fails? It idles great and cruises great it's only bad we coming to and leaving stop.
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I have a 2002 Toyota Echo. I just purchases a Creader V code scanner. My car is throwing a P0171 code. The light only comes on at idle or while going under 10 mph.
The data from the reader was:
Trouble Code: P0171
Fuel System sta B1 : CL, using HO2S
Calculated Load: 11.76%
Coolant Temp 188.59 degrees
The Freeze frame data was:
ST Fuel B1: -3.91%
LF Fuel B1: 36.7%
Engine speed: 795.5 RPM
Vehicle speed: 0 mph
Intake Air Temp: 82.4 degrees.
I went back today and ran live feed on the O2 sensors. I'm not sure what STF of O2S: STF means. That was another figure displayed on my code scanner.
The O2S S1 was reading between .04 and about .82. The graph looked pretty normal (I guess) in regards to going up and back down between 0 and 1. I don't know alot about mechanics, but I seen a youtube video of a graph showing it going up and down and what is normal. Mine did that on S1.
O2S S1: STF was: 3.89 and -1.57%
O2S: S2 was a different story. It was between like .58 and .66.
The O2S S2: STF didn't give me a value at all. It just said " --% ". The graph of this was slowly going up but in a small range. It started at like maybe .4 and would go up to say .5. The next wave would be like .45 to .55, then .50 to .60, then .58 to .66 etc. So it was not ranging just between 0 and 1. It had a very tight range that gradually increased upwards.
I built my own smoke machine before testing with the code scanner and I didn't get any smoke coming out of the car except for around the air filter housing where the lid meets the bottom portion. I don't know if it's because I had the air filter wrapped in plastic wrap. Can I have an air leak where the filter cartridge connects that would case a lean code P0171? Maybe I should go try to smoke test again. I did it about 3 weeks ago and I can't recall exactly where I had the smoke going into. I thought I disconnected the PVC hose from the brake booster and plugged it in there. I assume the smoke would get thru the whole system. It took about 2 min before the smoke came out of the filter housing.
The car only sets a lean code at idle or going less than 10mph and I'm coasting in a residential area.
I have an inspection coming up in May and need to get this thing fixed before that. I can't find any other air leak, but I wasn't sure a leak around the filter would cause this and I'm not sure the leak wasn't caused by the plastic wrap.
I'm thinking my only other prob could be fuel related. Fuel filter, fuel pump, clogged injector, or can my O2 sensor be bad and causing this? I've already replaced all spark plugs and coils as well as the PVC valve and cleaned the MAF sensor with the appropriate spray.
The car runs ok. The exhaust seems to smell RICH. Like Gas. I don't think my fuel economy is as good as it use to be. It has dropped from as hi as 42 mpg to between 38 and 40 if I'm lucky.
Back when I was having problems before and realized I had a bad coil, I had tried some injector cleaner. Why the codes were back then, but I had erased them and the car ran fine for about 2 months and the light came back.
My MAF sensor was .14 lbs when I was watching the live data above. I plugged my fuel pressure tester directly into the fuel line coming from the fuel tank and got a reading of between 42 and 44 lbs (car not running, just by trying to turn the engine over). I don't know if that is as accurate (or useful) as having the fuel pressure tester on the car and in line to allow the car to start up and run and watch the tester. I have to wait until my part comes do run the test that way.
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how to remove the headlights from an '02 echo? I'm trying to paint the headlight bezel, and can't seem to get the headlights out.
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I have taken this problem to the dealer 3 times in the last 6 months and they claim not to notice any vibration or rattle. However, whenever I am at a stop sign or stop light with the car in Drive (automatic trans), a loud vibration sound can be heard and also felt in the steering column and the brake pedal. As soon as I press on the gas pedal again, the vibration goes away. The only other way to stop the noise is to place the car into Neutral. What might be causing this? Apparently, the noise is not audible outside of the vehicle since none of the techs at Toyota were able to hear a rattle or vibration.
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My 2002 Echo Sportivo is losing power on hills,which is bad news as live in a hilly district. If I don't get a run up i.e lights change it's 40km/h all the way with my foot to the floor and lots of angry drivers behind me. Apart from this runs well?
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My car started popping out of reverse a little while ago and its started happening more often. I asked my mechanic uncle about it and he said its probably the synchronous. From my understanding, that means a rebuild of the tranny. I just got this car in Nov after writing off my Corolla in Oct. Is there anything else minor I could check?
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First car is an '02 echo and has some things that need to be done. Small exhaust leak, but i don't know where the leak is, how to find it, new one? Where to get replacement taillights, hole in mine.
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I am buying a Toyota Echo that the engine shakes on Idle and the shaking increase a bit when the AC is On ....
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My 2000 Echo (auto) developed a rough idle especially while in gear and with the AC running. It's a pretty rough vibration that seems to come from the left side (belt side) of the motor. When at a stop light with the AC off it is less pronounced.
Last year I had the belts and motor mounts replaced. Well let me rephrase.. I paid to have them replaced, not sure if they actually were. But the car ran great all year until the other day. The belts might be due for a replacement. They sometimes squeal in the morning as I accelerate from a stopped position while running the defrost. Also there is no CEL.
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I have a 2002 echo 1.3 vvti - will it has been running great and has 200000km on clock . However today i started it it ran for about 1 min then i heard a beeping from under the bonnet, the engine then stopped. The car will start and run for less than a sec then die. will not run no matter how much i play with the throttle .
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I just bought a 2002 echo recently and it started smoking blue. The car has 135000 miles which seems low to me to be blowing smoke so soon. I grew up around cars since my dad was a mechanic so I checked the compression on a cold engine. Cyl. 1 was 117psi, cyl. 2 was 134, cyl.3 was 127 and cyl. 4 was 117. I realize they are low but the car is blowing a pretty good amount. The car drives pretty good overall and seems to have power, i drove it on the freeway a few times and did 80mph fairly easy. I was wondering if this could possibly be valve stem seals gone bad? I will check the pcv valve as well. I really like the car and have read a lot of good things about the echo.
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I have a 2002 Echo sedan. I'd like to remove the rear seats completely for more storage (I am a musician). I was able to get the bottom foam off, but the seat "backs" are more stubborn. I see there are two bolts on the floor frame in the middle of the seat backs, and one bolt on each side of the seats where they meet the doors/frame. I tried to remove the bolts on the metal floor, but they do not budge... One socket wrench sheared right off while trying to spin it loose, and when I used a socket bit on my drill with an impact wrench attachment, it still wont budge... Are they locktitied in?
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My horn doesn't work consistently. Problem started about 6 months ago. Airbag never been deployed. Never wrecked the car. No liquids ever spilled on steering wheel. There is nothing that could be identified as a precipitating event.
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I have an automatic 2002 Echo. Like 2 or 3 days ago I started hearing a noise when I drive in reverse. Is a mix of friction and vibration and it gets louder the faster I drive, only in reverse. I read that this could be the symptom of a bad engine mount but I haven't been able to pinpoint it.
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Driving on friday night, started to hear at idle the car rpms wavering. Drove home fine with no issues other than at idle. Then Sunday, drove the vehicle, and sometimes had issues when accelerating, seemed to misfire and lose power. Then when driving that day it died completely and wouldn't start. It turns, but no firing.
Got it towed to my place, ran the codes, showed 1300, 1305, 1310, and 1315. All to do with ignition coils. Did a quick spark check, and no spark at any cylinders. I figured it would be weird that all 4 would go at the same time, so i replaced the ECM instead. Still no spark. Where to go next? Also the car does have an immobilizer in it...that could be causing it to malfunction?
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My 2002 Echo doesn't seem to be producing much heat. I have a scangauge installed, and it shows my temperatures around 75-80 C while our current temperatures here are around -20 C. I'm getting a bit of heat out of the vents but hardly enough to keep me warm.
I noticed that the coolant temperature will also drop a bit when I'm sitting idle listening to the radio before heading into our building at work. From about 85C to 70C, and the vents blow cold air.
My Radiator & Expansion tank are filled to proper level. I have just installed some cardboard inside the grille to try and block some of the cold air from entering. I haven't tested this out yet though.
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My 01 Echo coupe vibrates at idle and when running. I changed all mounts, with OEM ones,,,changed the bent cross-member, installed new rack and pinion, new bushings, terminal, bushings...and still the lil guy vibrates like a rattle snake tail.
I noticed that time chain is a bit slacked... what may be the culprit for that vibration, you can feel the vibs at gas pedal, dash and steering wheel.
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I've been having trouble getting my 2001 toyotoa echo to start in the cold weather and STAY Idling. All I can do to keep the car going is hold my foot on the gas until it warms up, then it stays running, low idle, but running. It starts fine the rest of the day, but that first start in the morning doesn't take. The check engine light comes on and stays on, and the car seems to idle rough at stops.
At first the Mechanic I took it to (good guys) cleaned out my throttle body (physically and chemically) and this seemed to solve the problem for a couple weeks. I'm located in Toronto, Canada, and we're heading into cold weather and I just want a car that starts. It started up again recently and I'm now being told (on my second visit to the mechanic) that it's my throttle body/idle control and that this part needs to be replaced, to the tune of 627.00 + labour.
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I need to know what the resistance should be on my 2002 Echo's coils. I have an intermittent sputtering problem and it's driving me nuts! I put E3 spark plugs in the car about a year ago to improve the power and economy (it was on the original plugs at 160k miles!!) and they did work a lot but not long after that the sputtering problem started.
The car does have a code for the pre-converter O2 sensor but I replaced it, cleared the code and it keeps coming back. I have not pulled the codes recently but will in the next few days.
I've also read that the fuel filter is inside the gas tank but there is an access port under the back seat. I doubt that would cause the intermittent problem but I could be wrong.
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I have a 2002 echo, and I need some work done on it. I'm pretty sure that my engine mounts are bad, and I know that my front bushings are shot. What should I expect to pay for the bushings/mounts to be replaced? Also, how do I know if my engine mounts are bad? Note that I am a college student living on campus, so doing the bushings will be next to impossible.
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