No audio on 2001 Toyota Echo radio. Volume control never stops when rotated. Radio lights up, showing station frequencies as I change stations. My conclusion is Power-Volume switch is shot and needs to be replaced. Sound logical? Is it a big problem to remove radio and change the switch?
View 2 RepliesI've been having trouble getting my 2001 toyotoa echo to start in the cold weather and STAY Idling. All I can do to keep the car going is hold my foot on the gas until it warms up, then it stays running, low idle, but running. It starts fine the rest of the day, but that first start in the morning doesn't take. The check engine light comes on and stays on, and the car seems to idle rough at stops.
At first the Mechanic I took it to (good guys) cleaned out my throttle body (physically and chemically) and this seemed to solve the problem for a couple weeks. I'm located in Toronto, Canada, and we're heading into cold weather and I just want a car that starts. It started up again recently and I'm now being told (on my second visit to the mechanic) that it's my throttle body/idle control and that this part needs to be replaced, to the tune of 627.00 + labour.
I have a 2001 Echo sedan that was given to me. It has sat unused for several months. The radio and Acc lights worked, but the car wouldn't start and the battery would drain very quickly when not in use. It sat for a few more weeks, and then I replaced the battery, now the radio will not turn on at all (everything else is fine).
I checked all the fuses, and they are good (though, not the ones on the radio itself). I will be replacing this with an aftermarket stereo anyway, I just want to make sure it is the radio that's the problem, and not something else in the car. From reading, it seems that it could be an anti-theft function, for which a code would need to be entered to unlock the stereo, but nothing is displayed on the screen at all when the car is on, not "SAFE" nor "SEC". There may be a certain button combo I need to hold in order to bring up the code prompt, but what those are, and the ones I have tried haven't worked. The radio is just an AM/FM Model #: A51408 (image attached).
So do you think I only need the code, something else might be wrong, or the radio just coincidentally died? No mention of a code is made in the manual.
I have a 2003 Toyota Echo with 250,000 miles. It has been a great car as I commute 90 miles to work. I have had no major problems with the car. Unfortunatly it recently died on the way to work. It was running great and then all the sudden it sputtered and killed. When I first tried to start the car it would just turnover but after waiting 10 minutes it started back up (this was a cold morning). When it started it was running great again. I drove it another 15 minutes and it all the sudden died again. This happened 3 times.
I have hooked up to a scan tool and a camshaft position sensor code displayed. I replaced that but had no change. Another code came up as mass air flow sensor. I purchased a used one of those and still no change.
I have started the car up numerous times and always have the same results. It starts right up, idles good, speeds up good and runs good at full throttle. The problem becomes when it warms up the car kills. If I run it at idle to a slow acceleration it takes longer to kill than if I run the car at full throttle. Once it kills it will not start up until the car cools down, but once it cools down it will start right back up.
I have a 2001 Toyota Echo with automatic trans. and it won't shift into 4th. or overdrive when it's colder out. I know they're designed to stay in 3rd. gear till it gets warmed up some for 2 or 3 miles. But this morning it was down to 6 above in northern Mn. and I took it on the hiway and drove it for 53 miles and it never did go into 4th. or overdrive. It was OK last winter even in 20 to 30 below.
View 6 RepliesI recently noticed that the airbag light of my 2001 Echo never comes on and is off all the time.
What can be the reason? Is the fuse blown?
If the fuse is blown, shouldn't there be an alarm or warning indication? I mean, because airbag is a the main safely feature in a car, shouldn't there be a warning mechanism to simply indicate that it does not work at all?
BTW, can a battery change have caused this? I changed the battery a while ago but never noticed this issue until now.
Earlier today, while waiting at a red light, the engine on my 2001 Echo stalled. It has automatic transmission, so it wasn't me manhandling the clutch...
I started the engine, and as soon as the A/C tried to engage, it stalled again. I turned the A/C off, restarted the car and moved on.
When I got home I tested again, and the engine stalls when I try to turn on the A/C. If the car is moving when I push the A/C button the engine coughs and the car buckles.
It sounds like the compressor is seized. How common is this? I've never had this happen before in any car.
It's a 2001 Echo with 205,000 miles (trouble free I might add, other than consumables I never had to fix anything).
01 Echo, there are two backlights (L & R) for the instrument panel, one of which isn't working even with a good bulb so I figured it might be a fuse. Which fuse would control the left side backlight?
View 2 RepliesHow do you remove a right rear 2001 Toyota echo tail light assembly?
View 1 Repliesis it possible to install an analog temperature gauge on a 2001 Toyota Echo? I live right on the Canadian border here in Mn. and it gets very cold. I have plenty blast from the heater fan but I don't think it's running warm enough. I had a new thermostat installed but it didn't seem to make any difference.
View 1 Replies2001 Echo. I have a squeaky belt that gets louder when the engine fan goes on. What drives that fan and causes the noise?
View 3 RepliesI would like to do a coolant flush so finding the engine drain plug would be nice. Where it is or if there's a pic of it somewhere?
View 2 RepliesMy great 2001 Echo is acting up for the first time in 11yrs!.. This weekend I decided to have my mechanic change the manual transmission fluid and do a general inspection of the vehicle. He found nothing wrong. I decided that before embarking on a long trip, that I would change the oil/filter, flush the radiator and put new antifreeze, change the airfilter, replace the alternator belt, added a small bottle of Lucas complete fuel system and a new battery.
I was proud of my DIY performance except that the next day the engine light came on! I took it to AutoZone where I purchase all the supplies and battery and they came up with CODE P1349 which I researched and found out about VVT(variable valve timing) malfunction. Some of the reasons for this malfunction are: low fuel pressure due to clogged or bad injectors..... Fuel pump regulator....camshaft malfunction or ECU (engine control unit) problem.
1.This morning the light was off then ten or fifteen minutes later it went on and at the same time the iddle got much faster for about two or three minutes, (in other words the engine was running faster even when I took my foot off the accelerator) and then came back to normal.
2. Later on the light was off again followed by the same sequence of events. Then at one point later I could tell that the the engine was running fast again for a couple of minutes.
My parents have a 2001 echo with auto trans. my father was driving and it started sputtering and died. it will crank but wont restart. it had a code p1725 Nt revolution sensor circuit malfunction (input turbine speed sensor). i tested the wires from the ecm to the sensor and the sensor itself as per the diag tree. wiring and sensor checked ok. diag tree pointed me to the ecm. i ordered a new ecm preprogrammed and installed it and it still wont start. it isn't giving any codes now either.
View 3 RepliesMy 01 Echo coupe vibrates at idle and when running. I changed all mounts, with OEM ones,,,changed the bent cross-member, installed new rack and pinion, new bushings, terminal, bushings...and still the lil guy vibrates like a rattle snake tail.
I noticed that time chain is a bit slacked... what may be the culprit for that vibration, you can feel the vibs at gas pedal, dash and steering wheel.
I just bought a 2001 Toyota Echo and wondering the procedure for checking the automatic tranny fluid. It doesn't say a word in the owner manual on how to do it. I know most vehicles you have it warmed up and check it in Park while idling.
View 1 RepliesTwice now my 2001 Echo has overheated when I was sitting and idling it for an extended time with the air conditioner running. The temperature outside was in the nineties. I'm not sure if that makes a difference. After I let it cool down the first time added coolant and drove it, it didn't happen again until today months later. Is this normal?
View 4 RepliesI'm getting error P0125 on my 2001 Echo, which points to possibly a faulty ECT sensor.
Where is this sensor located? Seems like under the air box? Is replacing this part as annoying as it looks? And, are there any other possible causes for code P0125?
In case it's related, I will mention that code P0171 (mixture too lean, I believe) is present as well, and the car does hesitate upon initial acceleration when standing still. Once it's moving, it works fine.
Maybe it's time to start thinking about replacing this car... it has 216,000 miles...
The previous owner broke the key off in the ignition so I replace the ignition lock cylinder the problem is though even with the old one I can't turn the key to lock so it's stuck on acc. What I can try without replacing the entire column? Also it needs a catalytic converter, do I have to weld a universal one on ?
View 1 RepliesRecently my car a 01 echo has been randomly losing power and accelerating slowing. Sometimes if I let off on the gas pedal and reapply it, it clears up and runs fines. There are no check engine lights and no codes stored. car has 213k miles on it.
I had replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, both o2 sensors and cat, have noticed a break behind the resonator could this be causing it?
My 2001 automatic Toyota echo speed sensor broke right in half and now the other half is stuck in the differential case (cv shaft housing) and I can not get it out. at all. I'm trying to pull it right back through the hole where it came from but it just simply won't budge. any other method of removal.
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