Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2000 Echo Started Missing - Code Check Came Back With P1315 / P0141 And P0304
Oct 27, 2014
The other day my 2000 Echo started missing, she would run fine until after about 5 mins. After that, it would run like it was only running on two or 3 cylinders so I took her to Auto Zone for a code check--it came back with p1315,p0141 & p0304. On the way home it really got bad! She started dying on me. Just like u turned the key off. Before coming to a complete rest I turned the key all the way off and back on and she ran for 30 seconds or so - You would have to turn her all the way off--back 2 clicks--one click back would not work and this is the way I got her back home--about 7 miles turning her on and off. I wish now I had not hooked her up to there code checker because I think it burnt something out.
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First owner, 192000 miles. Check engine light came on during last winter, I put fuel injector cleaner with gas and it went away for a while. It came back on, if i reset, I can drive for about 50 miles before it comes back on line. Also, may be two or three times a week, when moving after a stop, the vehicle stalls, i have to take the feet of the gas pedal and give gas again.
I called up the dealer asking for fuel filter and fuel injector parts prices. Fuel filter is in the gas tank and not meant to be replaced. The fuel injector I was told 4 x $155 each. For diagnostics they need $100
See attached, I was able to clean sensor 1. I could not unscrew sensor 2, the screw is rusted, plus there is no room to get a longer screw driver and turn.
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I have a 2000 toyota echo that idles great but starts missing and backfiring at the exhaust when I press the gas in park. When I put the car into drive or reverse the idle sounds like it wants to die and sometimes dies unless I press the gas. When I drive it the car gets to about 10mph and starts missing and backfiring at the exhaust. So far I've removed the coils one at a time while car running and noticed a difference. I've removed each of the injector wires while running and noticed a difference. replaced plugs and replaced the pcv valve replaced fuel filter and ran car with external fuel pump. I'm at a loss at what direction to go next. this all started around the time my alternator died and I replaced it.
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Recently changed a front pipe manifold on my Echo 2003 4doors Five spd.
Noise I was reporting ealier thread seems to have subsided somehow but I did not hit the high road again, since the repair.
But I have this check engine light that went off 3 days ago and stays on.
Tried 4 times to read the code of OBd II reader and it pulls nothing. As if everything was normal.
I changed the batteries but it acts like it does regularly and it shows like there is no code to pull out.
Could that be a Ghostly Check Engine. It is still on at the moment meaning every time I drive the car.
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I have a 2000 echo that recently will not allow me to fill the gas tank unless I do it very slowly. Otherwise it continually trips the pump nozzle.
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My car started popping out of reverse a little while ago and its started happening more often. I asked my mechanic uncle about it and he said its probably the synchronous. From my understanding, that means a rebuild of the tranny. I just got this car in Nov after writing off my Corolla in Oct. Is there anything else minor I could check?
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I just bought a 2002 echo recently and it started smoking blue. The car has 135000 miles which seems low to me to be blowing smoke so soon. I grew up around cars since my dad was a mechanic so I checked the compression on a cold engine. Cyl. 1 was 117psi, cyl. 2 was 134, cyl.3 was 127 and cyl. 4 was 117. I realize they are low but the car is blowing a pretty good amount. The car drives pretty good overall and seems to have power, i drove it on the freeway a few times and did 80mph fairly easy. I was wondering if this could possibly be valve stem seals gone bad? I will check the pcv valve as well. I really like the car and have read a lot of good things about the echo.
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The lights were left on and ran battery down. Tried to jump start but would not start. Installed new battery, won't start, won't turn over, no click, nothing. Lights and dash board lights work. Changed starter relay, checked/changed fuses, took starter out and tested it 4 times at Autozone. Starter is good. Checked switch under clutch, it's good. Checked ignition with voltmeter, checks good. Checked fusable links with voltmeter. Checks good. Why won't this car start! I can push it off and it runs fine, that's how I got it home. I'm getting 12 volts to the starter.
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I'm troubleshooting my sons 2000 Echo with a manual transmission. No reverse light. Very puzzling? The red wire with blue stripe in the trunk area is always hot. Makes no difference if the shifter is in reverse gear or not. Yet, the reverse lamps don't come on. I removed both bulbs and tested them at the battery using jumpers. They both come on. I have not gone under the car yet. My question is: does this car have a neutral start switch, and a back up light switch. If yes, which switch is feeding the other? Any pictures of where these switches are located? My guess is that the back up light switch is faulty, if there is one.
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My 2000 Echo's A/C didn't blow cold. It turns out the low side pressure was fine, but the compressor wasn't turning. I read somewhere that the A/C compressor's clutch eventually wears down so it doesn't grab the pulley anymore, and that sometimes removing spacers can move the clutch enough to allow it to grab. I took off the bolt on the compressor pulley and the spacer fell off. I put the bolt back on, and now I'm COOL!
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i have a 200 echo when i got it it would buck and loose power almost (but never) stall... then pick back up fast... driving 10 miles could result in whiplash it starts and idles fine not a skip... after looking though some online threads (btw: no CEL) i changed the air filter looked for vacuum leaks cleaned the MAF little better but still crappy changed the spark plugs again a little better but not even close to ok..
NOW CEL is on says too rich... changed MAF Much improvement but still bucks i went to toyota dealer they said no signal from air/fuel sensor.. changed it still no improvement but the fuel mileage is way better still bucks and sputters but is better at low speeds if i turn off the O/D and when the blue temp light is on, which i think does the same thing as turning off the O/D
if its idling no skips no vibration raise RPM's and it gets rough to a point raise it further and it keeps getting worse. I have a clogged filter or a TPS issue.
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I have a 2000 Echo with just over 200,000 kms on it. The problem I am having is that when the car is started it will idle fine but when put into gear will randomly stutter and sometimes die. After is has run for about 10 mins it won't die but still stutters quite a bit. The problem gets worse the colder it is outside. If it's above 0 deg C it won't die but still stutters. At highway speeds it almost feels like the car gets jerked backwards for a split second every time the engine stutters (misfiring?).
Spark plugs are about 1 year old. Just put in a new air filter and oil change. A friend suggested it might be some water in the tank but fuel line antifreeze and sea foam has made little improvement.
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2000 Echo, I noticed the other day the heat was half as warm as it should be. The blower is still moving air the same as it always has. The upper radiator hose is hot, the lower is cold. About the same temp as the air in the 30's. The line going in to the heater core and coming out are both really warm. I thought is was the thermostat so I had it replaced to day by a local shop who does good work. The problem persists with the same symptoms. The car has yet to have the high temp light come on.
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When cold and not running, the shift lever sticks especially in 1st or 2nd and lacks that springy return to center. When cold running, Almost impossible to get in and out of 1st and 2nd, 3rd-5th stiff but manageable. After 5-7 min of driving, Shifts like butter. Tranny fluid has been replaced with amsoil syn.
This wasn't a progressive condition, shifted great one day (approx 2 weeks ago), next morning the fun began!
Is there anything other the control cable that cause the extremely sticky shifting when the car is off?
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My 2000 Echo is stuck in park, my question: can my brake lights work but the release shifter stick function not. I am trying to diagnose the cause of the lock up and have heard it is probably the brake light switch, car has now exhibited electrical problem.
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My great 2001 Echo is acting up for the first time in 11yrs!.. This weekend I decided to have my mechanic change the manual transmission fluid and do a general inspection of the vehicle. He found nothing wrong. I decided that before embarking on a long trip, that I would change the oil/filter, flush the radiator and put new antifreeze, change the airfilter, replace the alternator belt, added a small bottle of Lucas complete fuel system and a new battery.
I was proud of my DIY performance except that the next day the engine light came on! I took it to AutoZone where I purchase all the supplies and battery and they came up with CODE P1349 which I researched and found out about VVT(variable valve timing) malfunction. Some of the reasons for this malfunction are: low fuel pressure due to clogged or bad injectors..... Fuel pump regulator....camshaft malfunction or ECU (engine control unit) problem.
1.This morning the light was off then ten or fifteen minutes later it went on and at the same time the iddle got much faster for about two or three minutes, (in other words the engine was running faster even when I took my foot off the accelerator) and then came back to normal.
2. Later on the light was off again followed by the same sequence of events. Then at one point later I could tell that the the engine was running fast again for a couple of minutes.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Echo. Symptoms are, the car drives fine until warmed up. Once warmed up, about 10 min or so, there is surging, an inability to maintain idle, periodic loss of brake assist, all consistent with my p1349 code. This happened about two months after I changed my oil (the old oil was in there for an embarrassingly long time). I ran motor flush and again changed the oil; symptoms persist. I have removed the OCV and OCV screen; both look fairly clean. Here's the question: what checks can be done on the OCV itself before I call a bad OCV and replace it? The service manual was of only marginal quality in explaining any checks.
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The digital clock in my 2000 Echo is starting to fail, and needs to be replaced. The local dealer quoted my $285 for a replacement.
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My 2000 Echo (auto) developed a rough idle especially while in gear and with the AC running. It's a pretty rough vibration that seems to come from the left side (belt side) of the motor. When at a stop light with the AC off it is less pronounced.
Last year I had the belts and motor mounts replaced. Well let me rephrase.. I paid to have them replaced, not sure if they actually were. But the car ran great all year until the other day. The belts might be due for a replacement. They sometimes squeal in the morning as I accelerate from a stopped position while running the defrost. Also there is no CEL.
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It's not the bulb or the fuse, but my wife's driver's side brake light is out (only the stop light portion). Where should I look next?
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My wife and I had a 1995 Tercel for 15 years and loved it. We are looking to buy a 200k 2000 Echo from a neighbor (it was originally purchased in Canada). It is generally well maintained, and a one owner car, and we know the owner pretty well. There are extensive records. The engine is solid. The only problem with it is the two inches below EACH door is very rusty. It is rusted through entirely. Basically, the bottom two inches along the bottom of the door is plain missing. It is rusted out pretty badly.
The frame seems fine. The car is cheap. Up here in the cold north, the rust will only get worse.
I don't care about looks, but I do care about safety and function. Is there a safety or function issue with such a rusted car, if the frame is okay? How long can I drive the car before it ceases to function or be safe?
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