Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2000 Echo MT Hard Shift Cold?
Jan 14, 2013
When cold and not running, the shift lever sticks especially in 1st or 2nd and lacks that springy return to center. When cold running, Almost impossible to get in and out of 1st and 2nd, 3rd-5th stiff but manageable. After 5-7 min of driving, Shifts like butter. Tranny fluid has been replaced with amsoil syn.
This wasn't a progressive condition, shifted great one day (approx 2 weeks ago), next morning the fun began!
Is there anything other the control cable that cause the extremely sticky shifting when the car is off?
View 5 Replies
Advertisement
My 2000 Echo's A/C didn't blow cold. It turns out the low side pressure was fine, but the compressor wasn't turning. I read somewhere that the A/C compressor's clutch eventually wears down so it doesn't grab the pulley anymore, and that sometimes removing spacers can move the clutch enough to allow it to grab. I took off the bolt on the compressor pulley and the spacer fell off. I put the bolt back on, and now I'm COOL!
View 2 Replies
I have a 2001 Toyota Echo with automatic trans. and it won't shift into 4th. or overdrive when it's colder out. I know they're designed to stay in 3rd. gear till it gets warmed up some for 2 or 3 miles. But this morning it was down to 6 above in northern Mn. and I took it on the hiway and drove it for 53 miles and it never did go into 4th. or overdrive. It was OK last winter even in 20 to 30 below.
View 6 Replies
how to remove the gear shift console on a 2001 TOYOTA ECHO?
View 1 Replies
Just bought a 2005 Toyota echo 2 door. I'm getting it this week, just getting detailed and all that good stuff. I want to add mods to it, such as cold air intake, muffler and much more. Sadly it's an automatic but it will do. Any link to a website for a cold air intake?
View 2 Replies
The lights were left on and ran battery down. Tried to jump start but would not start. Installed new battery, won't start, won't turn over, no click, nothing. Lights and dash board lights work. Changed starter relay, checked/changed fuses, took starter out and tested it 4 times at Autozone. Starter is good. Checked switch under clutch, it's good. Checked ignition with voltmeter, checks good. Checked fusable links with voltmeter. Checks good. Why won't this car start! I can push it off and it runs fine, that's how I got it home. I'm getting 12 volts to the starter.
View 5 Replies
My 2002 Echo doesn't seem to be producing much heat. I have a scangauge installed, and it shows my temperatures around 75-80 C while our current temperatures here are around -20 C. I'm getting a bit of heat out of the vents but hardly enough to keep me warm.
I noticed that the coolant temperature will also drop a bit when I'm sitting idle listening to the radio before heading into our building at work. From about 85C to 70C, and the vents blow cold air.
My Radiator & Expansion tank are filled to proper level. I have just installed some cardboard inside the grille to try and block some of the cold air from entering. I haven't tested this out yet though.
View 2 Replies
I'm troubleshooting my sons 2000 Echo with a manual transmission. No reverse light. Very puzzling? The red wire with blue stripe in the trunk area is always hot. Makes no difference if the shifter is in reverse gear or not. Yet, the reverse lamps don't come on. I removed both bulbs and tested them at the battery using jumpers. They both come on. I have not gone under the car yet. My question is: does this car have a neutral start switch, and a back up light switch. If yes, which switch is feeding the other? Any pictures of where these switches are located? My guess is that the back up light switch is faulty, if there is one.
View 4 Replies
i have a 200 echo when i got it it would buck and loose power almost (but never) stall... then pick back up fast... driving 10 miles could result in whiplash it starts and idles fine not a skip... after looking though some online threads (btw: no CEL) i changed the air filter looked for vacuum leaks cleaned the MAF little better but still crappy changed the spark plugs again a little better but not even close to ok..
NOW CEL is on says too rich... changed MAF Much improvement but still bucks i went to toyota dealer they said no signal from air/fuel sensor.. changed it still no improvement but the fuel mileage is way better still bucks and sputters but is better at low speeds if i turn off the O/D and when the blue temp light is on, which i think does the same thing as turning off the O/D
if its idling no skips no vibration raise RPM's and it gets rough to a point raise it further and it keeps getting worse. I have a clogged filter or a TPS issue.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2000 Echo with just over 200,000 kms on it. The problem I am having is that when the car is started it will idle fine but when put into gear will randomly stutter and sometimes die. After is has run for about 10 mins it won't die but still stutters quite a bit. The problem gets worse the colder it is outside. If it's above 0 deg C it won't die but still stutters. At highway speeds it almost feels like the car gets jerked backwards for a split second every time the engine stutters (misfiring?).
Spark plugs are about 1 year old. Just put in a new air filter and oil change. A friend suggested it might be some water in the tank but fuel line antifreeze and sea foam has made little improvement.
View 12 Replies
2000 Echo, I noticed the other day the heat was half as warm as it should be. The blower is still moving air the same as it always has. The upper radiator hose is hot, the lower is cold. About the same temp as the air in the 30's. The line going in to the heater core and coming out are both really warm. I thought is was the thermostat so I had it replaced to day by a local shop who does good work. The problem persists with the same symptoms. The car has yet to have the high temp light come on.
View 2 Replies
My 2000 Echo is stuck in park, my question: can my brake lights work but the release shifter stick function not. I am trying to diagnose the cause of the lock up and have heard it is probably the brake light switch, car has now exhibited electrical problem.
View 8 Replies
I've been having trouble getting my 2001 toyotoa echo to start in the cold weather and STAY Idling. All I can do to keep the car going is hold my foot on the gas until it warms up, then it stays running, low idle, but running. It starts fine the rest of the day, but that first start in the morning doesn't take. The check engine light comes on and stays on, and the car seems to idle rough at stops.
At first the Mechanic I took it to (good guys) cleaned out my throttle body (physically and chemically) and this seemed to solve the problem for a couple weeks. I'm located in Toronto, Canada, and we're heading into cold weather and I just want a car that starts. It started up again recently and I'm now being told (on my second visit to the mechanic) that it's my throttle body/idle control and that this part needs to be replaced, to the tune of 627.00 + labour.
View 7 Replies
I have a 2000 Toyota Echo. Symptoms are, the car drives fine until warmed up. Once warmed up, about 10 min or so, there is surging, an inability to maintain idle, periodic loss of brake assist, all consistent with my p1349 code. This happened about two months after I changed my oil (the old oil was in there for an embarrassingly long time). I ran motor flush and again changed the oil; symptoms persist. I have removed the OCV and OCV screen; both look fairly clean. Here's the question: what checks can be done on the OCV itself before I call a bad OCV and replace it? The service manual was of only marginal quality in explaining any checks.
View 2 Replies
The digital clock in my 2000 Echo is starting to fail, and needs to be replaced. The local dealer quoted my $285 for a replacement.
View 1 Replies
My 2000 Echo (auto) developed a rough idle especially while in gear and with the AC running. It's a pretty rough vibration that seems to come from the left side (belt side) of the motor. When at a stop light with the AC off it is less pronounced.
Last year I had the belts and motor mounts replaced. Well let me rephrase.. I paid to have them replaced, not sure if they actually were. But the car ran great all year until the other day. The belts might be due for a replacement. They sometimes squeal in the morning as I accelerate from a stopped position while running the defrost. Also there is no CEL.
View 4 Replies
It's not the bulb or the fuse, but my wife's driver's side brake light is out (only the stop light portion). Where should I look next?
View 2 Replies
My wife and I had a 1995 Tercel for 15 years and loved it. We are looking to buy a 200k 2000 Echo from a neighbor (it was originally purchased in Canada). It is generally well maintained, and a one owner car, and we know the owner pretty well. There are extensive records. The engine is solid. The only problem with it is the two inches below EACH door is very rusty. It is rusted through entirely. Basically, the bottom two inches along the bottom of the door is plain missing. It is rusted out pretty badly.
The frame seems fine. The car is cheap. Up here in the cold north, the rust will only get worse.
I don't care about looks, but I do care about safety and function. Is there a safety or function issue with such a rusted car, if the frame is okay? How long can I drive the car before it ceases to function or be safe?
View 3 Replies
I just got my wife a 2000 Echo with 224,000kms on the odo. Everything appears to be fine other than a mystery rattling noise under light acceleration. If I were to describe it, it sounds as if a box of rocks were to be shaken around. Or like a rattling loose chain... <------ definitely hope it's not that!
From a search, it seems like others have encountered this strange noise but have not reach what the cause is.
From what I gather, the timing chains on these motors are literally never touched and should last the life of the vehicle.
View 1 Replies
First owner, 192000 miles. Check engine light came on during last winter, I put fuel injector cleaner with gas and it went away for a while. It came back on, if i reset, I can drive for about 50 miles before it comes back on line. Also, may be two or three times a week, when moving after a stop, the vehicle stalls, i have to take the feet of the gas pedal and give gas again.
I called up the dealer asking for fuel filter and fuel injector parts prices. Fuel filter is in the gas tank and not meant to be replaced. The fuel injector I was told 4 x $155 each. For diagnostics they need $100
See attached, I was able to clean sensor 1. I could not unscrew sensor 2, the screw is rusted, plus there is no room to get a longer screw driver and turn.
View 14 Replies
My car now has a little over 370,000 miles on her. The other day I noticed a hesitation while accelerating, like an instant loss of power/ jerk. It didn't do it much at first and the higher the RPM's the less it seemed to do this. Once I got the car up to 60/70 mph it was pretty much unnoticeable.
What it was. Thought maybe a vacuum leak. Nope. Maybe a bad TPS or CPS (didn't end up checking those), Thought maybe a bad injector or O2 sensor (didn't end up checking those either). I did try some fuel injector cleaner though but saw no change. I had a feeling it had to be a sensor or something because the motor itself runs great other than the intermittent misfire.
So I drive it in to work this morning. (1 hour drive each way) and aside from the minor hesitation/bucking/jerking while accelerating, everything went pretty smooth so long as I had the car up to highway speeds. So I get off from work and start driving home. The problem seemed to have disappeared completely for the first 3 or 4 miles, then all of a sudden it started up again. Only this time it had gotten much worse.
I could no longer get the car to go over 70mph and when I came to a stop the car sounded like it wanted to die (but never did). It took forever from a complete stop to get past all of the sputtering and hesitation/missing to get the car up to speed. It would keep cutting in and out (the motor bogging down, then gaining normal power for a second or two and so on and so forth). So I decide to take it to a shop to see if they can diagnose it.
The guy hooks up his code reader and looks at the car for a little bit out in the parking lot. All he could do was suggest to change the spark plugs and said that that was where he would start. So I went ahead and listened to what he said about the spark plugs (even though I knew there wasn't anything wrong with them because I had just changed them about a year ago). So I'm changing them out and when I take out cylinder 1's coilpack I notice it's wet. It seems somehow water or moisture had gotten down into there. So I dried everything off and changed the plug (the old one looked fine but I changed it anyway) and I went ahead and changed out all the rest of the plugs too (they all looked fine as well)
So after seeing the water around the #1 spark plug and coil pack, The injectors are right in front of there, so I decided to take the plug off the injector and take a look.
Sure enough, I took the plug off of the injector right in front of the #1 spark plug (far left spark plug) and wouldn't you know it, it had water down inside of it. I pulled the plug off of the injector next to it and it had water in it too (but not as much). How water could have gotten down in there but it did. I took a Q-tip and used it to dry up all the water down in there. Put everything back together and took it for a spin and everything was back to normal.
View 14 Replies
