Windstar :: V6 / 3.8L - No Air Comes Out Of Vents But Can Hear Blower Fan Noise
Aug 31, 2010
My 1996 Windstar, V6, 3.8L, stops blowing air from vents intermittently. When I turn AC or heat on, the vents blow air fine according to the fan speed setting. But after 10/15 minutes, the air flow decreases significantly or stops altogether, no air comes out of the vents, yet I can hear the blower fan noise as if it is working and feel heat/cool at the vents (as per the selected setting).
I have tried changing the selector switch from AC to MaxAC, dashboard vents, bottom vents defrost, or fan speeds, but nothing works; It stays the same whether the vehicle is moving or is parked. The air starts flowing normally after half hour or so, or the next day.
I replaced the HVAC Vacuum Selector Valve (behind the controls) last week with a new one made by MotorCraft and it did not make any difference.
First thing that comes to mind is vacuum leak. Given the intermittent nature of the problem, I was wondering if this really is due to a vacuum leak? Next I thought of the blend door actuator, which is a common problem with Windstars. Since it does not default to hot or cold air, could it still be a blend door actuator problem?
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The A/C system switches from vent to defrost mode under engine load (going uphill or overtaking another car). It is caused by a vacuum leak and as far as I've seen most of us had the same problem a loose red hose, here are some pictures of where to start looking first.
This is the hose that gets disconnected from the back passenger side of the intake manifold.
This is where that hose should be connected to.
This is the other end of the same hose, it has a check valve on it and this side is connected to the vacuum reservoir and into the firewall to the dashboard to control the A/C system.
This image is just to show the location of the vacuum reservoir, you'll have to remove the cowl in order to see it properly, if you don't you can still reach the reservoir but it will be a bit hard since you don't have much space.
Here's the vacuum reservoir and the hoses from another perspective.
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Ford - no front heat - 2000 Windstar - actuator
My Dad's 2000 Ford Windstar van stopped putting out heat to any front vents. I was able to hear a rhythmic thumping sound when the heat control slider was placed in the hot position. I looked for info on line, and found many posts that said the actuator was probably the issue. I also went back and asked my Dad if before the thumping sound he had heard anything else, and he confirmed he had heard some gear grinding noises, which others have reported as the actuator is starting to grind and slip its internal gears. If the actuator is not working correctly, it won't hold the heater duct door in the open position, which means you can't get any hot air.
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I have a 2000 Ford Windstar Van with 155,000 miles on it. A problem has developed with the electrical system/components. The van will start and run fine. With the engine running, there is no instrumentation, power windows do not work, wind shield wipers do not work, radio does not work, heater blower motor does not work. After the engine has been shut off, the radio will work, windows will work, door locks until such time as you open the door, then all quits. With the key in accessory, the windows work, door locks work, radio works, etc. The neutral module was replaced (the old one, none of the contacts appeared to be burnt). Ford dealer spent an hour trouble shooting - checked body modules (2) - found nothing.
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I have a 2010 Lancer (standard) and the air vents don't open or turn depending on the position of the air controller dial. I have to turn the air to defrost, back to front, back to defrost...several times for the air to come out. I can hear what sounds like a motor turning what I presume are air deflectors of some sort, but the air doesn't come out.
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When the blower is on, it automatically switches from vents to defrost vents on its on. Does it about every 4 minutes.... like it's haunted. Curious if this is something i can tackle or do i need to take it in...
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The blower fan works just fine, when i put my hand up to the vent i can barely feel air coming out, but something is blocking it. this is for all vents (floor, windshield and all four vents on dash).
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Looking to get the A/C working on my '78 F150 with integral (factory) A/C system. It is complete, but it seems to be blowing warm air as opposed to cold.
When I turn on the A/C, the compressor engages and the blower switches to the dashboard vents. I waited for a minute or two, but no cool air.
The sight glass has a silver line running through it. I assumed this was full? It would be black if it was low/empty.
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Co-Worker's '03 Jetta TDI
Blower works intermittently. Sometimes all speeds will work. Sometimes only on high. Sometimes on all speeds but at a slower speed than normal. Sometimes it doesn't work on any speed.
Switch doesn't bind, blower motor doesn't make any unusual noises and I don't think it is the blower resistor. He did notice a strange odor coming from the vents the other day and, it appears that the foam on the blend door is starting to disintegrate.
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The ac/heater works just fine. But the air only blows from front vents towards face; even if i press button to defrost or floor or frontnfloor.
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2001 sierra 2wd ext. cab. over 300 km. 5.3 motor auto .... Battery charged, everything is working when key is on, but nothing happens when key is turned to start. Clicking noise can be heard in 5 pin fuse relay located on left side dash fuse panel.. How do I check it? Could have something to do with anti theft system?
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My accent 1.4L gl at noise on road condition and especially rough road.. I can hear the bumps on the tire LOUDLY.. do i have to change my tires? or spring?
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I am new to VW. I just purchased 2 new cars on Monday of this week. A 2012 Jetta SE for my wife and a 2012 Passat SE for me. We are loving both of these cars.
I have a question though. If my car has been locked for a little while, I unlock the car, open the door, I hear a noise inside the car as if an electronic motor is running. It only last for a second or 2 and I can't pinpoint the noise. It almost sounds like the power seat is moving but I don't think that is it. Hears that noise when you are entering your car?
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2005 LEXUS RX 330 5w/30 oil. Warm weather state...
On first start up with acceleration I hear what seems to sound like a marble shaking around in my engine/transmission.. It is present when i accelerate and not when I am at a stop position.
It goes away within 2-3 minutes of driving... Timing belt and water pump has already been done. the car has almost 100k
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[URL] ....
Issue #1: Odd noise coming from under the hood, as you can see/hear in the video linked above, it comes and goes when you mess with the wire/hose, whatever it is. What is it? How do you fix it?
Issue #2: Just started last night at football practice, went to start the van, it wouldn't start, just heard clicking. Got a jump start to get home after practice, let it run to charge. Start it this morning, same thing, just clicked a couple times. Jump started it again, drove it around. Later this morning, start it, just clicks, turn it over again and NOTHING (no noise at all), turn it over a 3rd time it started....a hard struggling start. Its done exactly that 4 times today.
Bad battery? It is 5 years old. My husband disconnected the positive from the battery and it didn't die/shut off, so assuming the alternator is still good?
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My 02 Windstar has developed an intermittent thumping noise in the engine. A bit of history: She has been sitting for a few months because she was throwing a P303 code that I could not track down. Here in IL, you cannot renew your plates until you pass an emissions check, and you cannot pass the check if a code is stored.
Well, I got a warning ticket for expired plates, and I had my daughter's car as alternate transportation while she is in the Peace Corps, so I parked Mr. Breeze, intending to get to her on the weekend. Except for throwing the code and gas mileage being a bit down, she was running fine when I parked her.
Well, life happened, and I never seemed to be able to put the time aside, but now winter is coming and I don't want to subject her ride to the snow, so I made time and replaced the coil, plugs, and wires. But when I started her up, there is an intermittent thumping noise in the engine compartment.
I have double checked the wires, and I think I have them right. As I understand it, the right bank plug wires go on the coil towers 1,2,3. and the left bank wires go on the towers 6,5,4. Is that right?
I made a short video so you could hear it, but it is too big to upload, so here's a YouTube : [URL] .....
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My 2002 Ford Windstar Van needs a rebuilt transmission. The chain, according to my mechanic, may quit at any time (the van makes a grinding noise going up inclines). In 2005 my van had the transmission rebuilt (it totally quit on me driving). It currently has 200, 030 miles on it. I've checked around and the best estimate for a rebuilt transmission. Is it worth keeping? Repairing? If not, do I try selling it (for what amount?)?
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i have a 1999 ford windstar with 73k miles. torque converter was replaced before I got it. (about ten thousand miles ago)my van gets a quick grinding noise from the front end that lasts only a second. it only happens when i start the car and then drive about 100 feet. if I shift to park and then back to drive it won't do it. only if the engine has been stopped and restarted (even if warmed up)the transmission doesnt slip, and shifts fine. I'd love some ideas before the expensive (and only) local mechanic starts digging around.
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I've been noticing this rattling sound when going over bumps, which doesn't seems to go away!. I know it's a problem with the brake pads because it goes away as soon as I depress the brake pedal. So I decided to take another look at each wheel.
- Brake pads are relatively new and properly installed.
- Wheels have anti-rattle clips properly installed.
- Bolts were properly tightened with a torque wrench by me.
- Slide pins are lubricated.
During my visual inspection I saw the rear wheel calipers are a bit loose and that should be making the noise. I would describe it as up and down play with respect to the rear rotors or the ground.
I don't know what would cause that since each bolt is tight. I don't know if low brake fluid could cause that, no lights are lit on the dashboard but will take a look at the reservoir.
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98 Windstar 251K
I recently replaced wheel bearing on Front driver side, the noise was present before replacement. When I step on the brakes I hear a squeaking sound like a rubber bushing squeaking, also it changes as the wheels turn. I have also cleaned the brake rotor but have not had it turned for being warped, could this be the piston seal in the caliper or pins.
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Our 2002 Ford Windstar has 78k miles. On 6/2/15 we had the brakes replaced. Soon after I noticed a ticking/clicking noise that sounded like it was coming from the right rear tire. It only happened when I braked and then only happened sometimes. It didn't seem to matter if the car was cold or had been running awhile, if I was on flat ground or on a hill, or if I had been going fast or slow. I couldn't predict when it happened. The car always stopped okay. So I took it back to the repair shop, and they made an adjustment and it was quiet. Two days later it started again, so I took it back. They machined the rear drums and the noise was gone. Five days later I hit a rough patch of pavement and when I braked the noise started again. Back to the shop. They had one of the mechanics ride with me. No noise of course. They said to bring it back when it makes the noise. Well, it has made the noise, but only a few times and I can't predict when it will happen. The car runs fine and brakes fine. I trust this repair shop. They've worked on the car in the past.
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