Windstar :: Power Sliding Door Adjustment
Dec 11, 2008
I can not find details on adjusting the stops/sliders/ apparatus in this power sliding door mechanisms in the Haynes manual.
How to re-align or adjust these things? mine is not latching properly at the rear securing point 100% of the time.
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It's a '99 Montana EWB.
OK, I know I have an issue with clean water entering the cabin and depositing itself in the channel next to the driver's side rocker where a fair number of wires are located. It filled with water last fall and I dried it out and never thought too much more about it, but knew there was water coming in somewhere. At first I thought it was the AC, but the drain is clear and running.
It's similar to the damned TSB Bulletin No.: 01-08-45-005E that is a sticky here on the forum.
This time however, I didn't check for water in the fall and this morning in a blinding snow storm at 14F the power sliding door acted up 5 minutes before my wife left for work. By the time she got to work the damned TCS and ABS idiot lights came on, and she says the sliding door attempted to open, but she got it to close.
Now the van is 20 miles away and I won't be able to look at it until I can get it home and try to dry it out again. In the driveway in a snow storm!!!
If GM had been a little more specific about the root cause of water issues mentioned in the TSB, it would make life and fixing this problem that much easier.
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Long story short it stopped working. I have tried the reset method with no luck and I can't seem to get it to give me the codes per the factory service manual. This is what I do know when you release the door it unlatches but won't open, I can hear the motor trying to run but it won't pull the door open and it sounds like it immediately reverses but the door does not move.
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My passenger side power sliding door on my 2003 Olds Silhouette (147,000 miles) Occasionally will quit working. We can open it and close it manually and sometimes it will start working again, other times it won't work for several days and then all of a sudden it works again.
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About 3 days ago there was a complete power loss to the Driver Side Window and Sliding Door. Checked both fuse panels and everything looked good. Is there a relay that controls the entire driver side? There's no whining or noise at all when you push the buttons. Just complete loss of power. If you press the button for the passenger window on the driver door, everything works. So its not that the driver side door as a whole has problems.
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I've searched and can only find instructions/details on 6.4L and older Super Duty trucks. The process is the same to adjust the gear box for a 6.7L?
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the driver/rear suicide door combo is rubbing at the top and thus rattling on bumps. Looks to me like it is actually from the rear door as the gap in the very back is very wide at the top. the driver door gaps look normal along the front. Before I dig into this I wanted to check and find out the best way to approach. Is there an adjustment inside the hinge? the bolts on the jam look solid and have never been adjusted. Perhaps there is a hinge pin in there?
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I have a 99 Toyota Sienna with an automatic sliding door that has failed. Cost to repair is high $$$. Would like to disable the motor and automatic mechanism and make it a regular manual sliding. Can it be done? If so need a repair shop?
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I have a 98 i just took it up on a trade. The sliding door on passengers side its automatic it wont open i hear something clicking but its not going. Other problem is the windshield wipers only work on high...
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We have had this problem for about two years now. We finally took the car to the dealership and they, without being able to duplicate it, recommended to change the sliding door roller for the price tag of $375. We did and it did not fix the problem. We took it back few times and the popping noise did not take place while there and left the dealership without a solution. We finally took it back today armed with a video on my iPhone displaying the problem (popping audio included). We left it with them and lo and behold they said that they were now able to duplicate the problem and they are able to fix it by replacing not two but three latches.
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2007 Honda Odyssey with power sliding rear doors. One door (pass side) skips when closing, but only when the van is pointing down hit. Seems to work ok when van is level or pointing uphill. Skipping - the door starts closing, stutters, keeps going, 2-3 times. Usually the door closes, but sometimes it stops and reopens. Is this the motor or some other part/problem?
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I have a 2007 Toyota Sienna and the passenger sliding door will not slide on its own. You have to tug on the door to get it to engage. The repair shop said the door needs a new actuator. How hard is replacing the actuator on sliding passenger door?? My brother thinks he might be able to do it???
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I have a 2002 Toyota sienna XLE, 95k miles. A few weeks ago I replaced the battery with a DieHard. Immediately after this, the right sliding door stopped working. A few days later the left side stopped working. Neither sliding door works in the manual mode, child proof feature is disabled. Fuses are good. Both doors click when any associated switch is activated but don't open. It was suggested by an owner of an older Sienna that the auto door computer needed resetting. Worth a try. His procedure involved disconnecting the negative side of the battery, waiting 3-5 minutes, reconnecting battery, use the key fob remote to open a door and then close it using the fob. Wait 10 seconds open and close same as before, doing this a total of 3 times. It didn't work, door clicks won't open. Tried again same results. This makes sense and my thinking goes that perhaps the sequence is different for a newer model.
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Have a '93 Aerostar that had something roll up against inside sliding side door and must have nudged it out of alignment. Broke off outside door handle, took off inside panel and tried prying, pushing, kicking and pulling rods, handle, linkage and anything I could get at. Any way to get it open, so I can re-align the catch mechanism??? I have tried everything I could to "muscle it" open....
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A couple of weeks ago our 2007 Odyssey started having door issues - driver's side sliding door would get about 85% closed (approx 6 inches from closed) then beep and reverse back open. Wife took it to the dealership and they said the rollers were dead and it would be $400 to repair them. Suggested we wait till it got bad. A week later on the cape, it got bad -- doors were getting really stuck, even in manual.
I replaced the roller assy on the door (the rollers were GONE!) and it now operates manually just fine now. I'm left with the following issues:- Door still won't close during automatic operation. Gets 80% closed then beeps and reverses closed.- Door doesn't open automatically during operation from the key FOB or the driver's control panel on the console. (I hear an actuator running when I press the buttons, just no obvious release). The door auto-opens fine from all other modes (inside lever, outside handle).
I've tried multiple "door reset" routines to no avail -- not sure if I have the correct "routine" for my '07 EX, or if something else is in play.
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I have a 2001 Town & Country with 157,000 miles. The driver rear automatic sliding door will not work. You can hear the motor running but it doesn't totally close...so I open and close manually. I looked in Chrysler service manual...could this be a power latch assembly?? How hard would it be to replace myself. The rear hatch is the same way have to manually open/close...can hear motor and it goes through motions but doesn't open. ???? Then today the rear wiper wouldn't work....
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] have a 2001 Town & Country with 157,000 miles. The driver rear automatic sliding door will not work. You can hear the motor running but it doesn't totally close...so I open and close manually. I looked in Chrysler service manual...could this be a power latch assembly?? How hard would it be to replace myself. The rear hatch is the same way have to manually open/close...can hear motor and it goes through motions but doesn't open. ???? Then today the rear wiper wouldn't work....
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One of my Aerostar pet peeves is to do with the sliding door alignment, or should I say slight misalignment.
Some of the alignment problems can be attributed to worn out nylon roller bearings. Make sure the roller guide ways are clean of any foreign debris. When you car wash your Aero, make sure to also clean the interior roller guide way (open the sliding door and thoroughly clean around the area where the bottom sliding door wheel travels).
After 20 years of usage, the sliding door will eventually drop down and back a few millimeters. Some of the symptoms associated with this will be a sporadic loss of electrical contact with those that are outfitted with electrical door locks. Also, the sliding door may also require some manual assistance at back edge to open the door. It can become somewhat frustrating, and perhaps a little embarrassing when parked beside a newer vehicle outfitted with automatic door opening/closing mechanisms.
I am not sure if the elevation of the sliding door can be adjusted at the rear or in the middle, but I do know that the horizontal position of the sliding door can be adjusted to a certain degree. The vertical position can be only adjusted by a very tiny amount.
1) Remove all of screws on the sliding door interior panel, and as well as the torx screw on the open/close barbaric door handle.
2) The bottom panel, other than the screws, has 2 plastic/nylon semi-resuble flat headed holder fittings.
3) Remove the two interior rubber grommets at the rear edge of the door. This will reveal 3 adjustment bolts.
4) Loosen the bolts, then push the door a bit forward while holding the middle hinge. Don't push too much! Just a little.
5) Re-tighten the middle handle bolts, and subsequently re-adjust the striker bolt. This is a PITA to align properly.
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i have a 1999 ford windstar 3.8 and get hardly any cold air using the air condtioner, i.m assuming the trap door is not operating by either closing or not closing the heater core therefore blending hot air through the vents.In other words the temp control is faulty. now for a quick fix to stop the heater core from getting hot water is a shut-off valve in line to the heater hose a quick fix for now so the air conditioner will at cool somewhat better?.
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I have a 2008 extended cab gmc, I noticed the top of the front door sinks in more than the back when the doors are closed. They are not aligned flush, can I adjust the doors to have the same gap and be flush? did someone adjust the door that way for wind noise maybe?
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I put a new door lock actuator in my drivers door today. The key locks the door just fine but when I return it to center it unlocks the door. If I take the key out and just tap the key cylinder it unlocks again. Is there any adjustment I haven't found yet to the key cylinder or actuator?
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