Windstar :: Oil Light Comes On And Blinks With Knock When 1996 Vehicle Warms Up
Mar 16, 2016
1996 3.8 liter is quiet at startup until it warms up then knocking and oil light comes on and blinks with the knock. worst at idle, oil light goes out and knock gets quiet upon acceleration. cruises down highway quietly and no oil light. mechanic said I should check oil pump, 128000 miles. also wiper delay does not work right, wipers just move an inch then stop. I see3 a relay under dash that says DELAY ACC but don't know what it is for
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Ive been in this game 16 years have i never stumbled across this. The theft light blinks fast and no start. Ive change the key , key remote to cpu, and the cpu it self all programed properly still no start ....
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I've got a '96 Sierra manual transmission with 215K that's been running fine. I just ran it 400 miles without a problem. Recently I downshifted into fourth to go up a hill and I had a sudden loss of power and a rough ride like I had a flat tire. The harder I press the gas the rougher the ride and it idles almost normally. The check engine light came on and blinks 12 times.
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I have a 1996 GMC Yukon with 243,000 miles on it. It has had the following issue for some time: Start the vehicle, all is well. Put it in gear, begin to roll about 3-5 MPH, can hear the ABS system pulse once, then the ABS light remains on until the vehicle is shut off. This happens 95% of the time. Trying to figure out if this is an issue with a wheel speed sensor, or the ABS unit itself.
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So my truck a stock 2000 7.3 started smoking when I would start it up in the morning... figured it was a glow plug issue. Checked the relay it was good, checked the glow plugs found 2 were bad replaced them.
Thought I was done, well I started it up and took it for a drive. still smoked... thought no big deal I know some oil leaked into the cylinders doing the glow plugs.
Then it started rattling like a lift went out, no more smoke though because the truck was warm... shut it off at my buddies. Limped it "it actually still drives ok" 5 miles home.
From my research it sounds like an injector. I have tried a buzz test and they all sound the same.
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My daughter has a 1996 Toyota Corolla that she bought last year from a personal seller who kept impeccable records on everything that was ever done to the car for maintenence, etc. My mechanic ok'd the buy. For the past few months she has been complaining of it slowing down as it warms up.It was doing this at 60mph to start and now at 45mph. It runs perfect when it is cold but once it warms up it's downhill. The mechanic is stumped. There is no code for it. The distributor seems quite new. The fuel pressure is the same when it is acting up or not. Don't know about fuel volume. Tried replacing the map sensor and another sensor that I cannot remember, to no avail. The car has 172000 miles on it. What can be the cause?
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I have a 1996 Ford Windstar, 3.8 L, with 200,000 mostly highway miles that has had regular maintenance. Recent repairs include new plugs, fuel filter, and air induction flush.
The van has a sporadic miss with the check engine light flashing at times, both at town and highway speeds. Other times, the engine light is on steadily. There is a noticeable reduction in the miss after adding a gas cleaning additive.
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The air starts out very cold but after a few minutes it warms up. A few minutes later it is cold again but then it warms up. This cycle repeats itself throughout the drive.
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I have a '96 Windstar, 3.8L base model.
I've notice a bumping around, rattle type noise in the wheel well or below the adjacent floor at the right rear tire. I'm still looking into the cause at this point.
The "tracking bar" was replaced last year, and is firm and tight. The rear exhaust pipe was also replaced last year, and I've checked that it might be "tapping" on the body of the van by checking it's range of movement.
The shocks are relatively new (<50,000 miles)...
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Where the knock sensor is located on my 1997 Aurora. what does it do?
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I have a 1996 Ram with the V10 that only has 10,000 miles since it was replaced by Dodge. 7 years has passed since that shortblock warranty job. It now has a tick/knock that I cant seem to locate? I changed the lifters and one push rod since is was a little bent and put it all back together. Still getting the same thing - nothing has changed ...
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I just got my 1996 volvo 850 turbo wagon running, after I replaced a valve, lapped all the valves and replaced all valve stem seals/full stage zero(timing belt, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, thermostat). Boy was she a strong runner, for the whole day it was running. I do admit to abusing it quite a bit. But what else would you expect from an 18 year old kid who just rebuilt his first volvo engine ? Now, i will note that the car had horrid previous owners, that took no care of the car(ran it low on oil and who knows what else). I know I ran it out of oil once, on the way home from buying it.....the guy did not put the oil filter on tight enough, and it blew the oil filter seal out. Luckily volvo's have low oil sensors. after i rebuilt the top end my engine was throwing out blue smoke for a while, but i thought it was just a bad turbo bearing.
Anyways, to cut to the chase; My engine sounds like this one. [URL]......
I did a compression check, all cylinders at 180 psi. all my lifters look good. I had a few plugged oil passages in the cam cover, but none that go to the lifters. i pushed on all valve springs, they look good. i used a screwdriver and hammer to check if the valve guides pulled out, and the valves are solid in place. I was still making boost even though the engine was knocking like this, so i know its not a rod bearing, because the knock sensors would have picked up on it and dropped the boost.
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I have a 96 Jeep Cherokee, 2wd, 4 cylinder, manual transmission, I have had some work done on it. Recently, I had the clutch redone, then I had a tune-up and the motor mounts replaced.
After the motor mounts were done, I was unable to get the vehicle into gear. My mechanic adjusted the clutch pedal and it was running as long as I did not put it into reverse. I had driven it about 3 miles from my house, parked it.
Came out to start it a couple of hours later and it would not turn over. It wanted to start but no engagement. I had to have it towed to my house where my mechanic could check it out.
Since that time, we have determined that it is not the fuel pump, we changed out the fuel injectors, replaced the coil, replaced the crankshaft sensor and it is still doing the same thing. Have gone through all the suggested remedies.
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Looking for a diagram of the locations of the oxygen sensors on this vehicle, I am getting miss information from all around saying it has anywhere from 2-4 oxygen sensors and i think it has 3 am i right? two in the front behind the radiator on the exhaust manifold, and 1 somewhere by the catyaltic converter. There isn't a whole lot of manuals out there for these cars.4.0 ltr engine...
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1996 Chevy 2500 (3/4 Ton) 4x4.
My vehicle inspection wouldn't pass the jounce bumper bracket (stops upper control arm from traveling too far) on the drivers side front. The bracket is rusting out and needs to be repaired or replaced. The bracket is welded to the frame.
Does it sound feasible to cut a bracket off at the wreckers and weld it to my frame?
Do they allow zip disk cutters in Pull a Part?
The passenger side bracket is OK.
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What's the fix for a 1996 Ford Ranger when the engine shuts if the vehicle is put in reverse? (It will run in drive, but not in reverse; fuel filter, air filter and vacuum hoses have all been checked).
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My Explorer speedo works fine for the first bit of riving but when the vehicle gets warm it goes to exactly 50 and stays there.
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08 RX350 with ~100K miles. Two weeks ago the Check Engine/TRAC light were on, VSC light blinks, so I tightened the gas cap, and pull the negative and cleared the code. Hoping this is just a gas cap issue.
2 weeks later all those lights are back again, so my mechanic pulled the code and came up with P0128. He told me it should be the problem with the Coolant Temperature Sensor. The water pump, thermostat was replaced last year and coolant level is OK. No issue with coolant temperature and the car drives like normal. My mechanic cleared the code and told me to drive it again until the lights come back and he will pull the code again.
08 RX350 AWD
08 Avalon Touring
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When you put trans in reverse makes whine noise no reverse. The forward gears are fine. Could this be a solenoid problem?
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I don't drive (aren't you lucky?) but my wife and I own a '95 Ford Windstar and last summer we had issues with coolant leaking and had to have a few head gaskets replaced. Now, when we're idling at a stop light or sign, the oil light goes on but as soon as we accelerate, it goes off. The manual says the light indicated either low fluids (which isn't the case) or that the pressure within the system is low. The vehicle seems to run fine otherwise but I'm wondering if the oil light gauge has been set too sensitive?
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i just bought a 91 integra, it has a b20, it runs good, just the oil; light blinks, is there anyway i can get it off...
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