I have a 2000 windstar. That the IMRC linkage fell out and I'm not able to put them back because they were out when I found them. So I don't know what hole they go in.
It's the electric type. One actuator for the front and back.
My Radiator fell inside the car I tried to pick it back up but its hooked on something in the bottom and I can move it. Not even sure how are why it would fall. is there some kinda of bracket that holds in place or a bolt?
View 6 RepliesI have a 98 f150(4.6 V8) that has 'seemingly' overheated for about 5 seconds twice in the last month. I noticed the temperature gauge went all the way up after about 1 mile of travel, then it immediately fell back down to normal. The truck has 198k miles.
I flushed out the system using a Peak Flushing Tee, replaced the thermostat with spring facing the engine block, and refilled the system.
I haven't had another overheating instance but I am having problems with my heater....the truck seems to warm up fine and the heat starts off working well. The temperature gauge reads normal for a few minutes then drops and I lose the heat. The truck blows cool air for a while, then will start blocking hot air again.
I believe the water pump has been replaced fairly recently...the pulley has no slack and I don't see any leaks or wetness around the pump or its weep-hole.
I read it could be a blend door or blend door actuator. I don't hear any funny clicking and obviously get some heat.
Should I try another new thermostat? Intermittent water pump problems?
On my 2000 Ford Windstar when I step hard on the gas I have a coolant leak from the back side of the motor and had antifreeze coming up onto the windshield when I turned on the heat. I took the van into the shop and they did a pressure test on it and could not find any leaks and after this I didn't notice any leaks or smell of antifreeze. Drove the van 400 miles with no problem but last Friday I had to step on the gas to exit a parking lot and then again I smelled coolant and my van was steaming. I added coolant and drove it and it is fine now. There is no oil in the coolant tank.
View 4 RepliesMy check engine came on this morning. I dropped it of at dealer and they just called me and said IMRC Motor was not adapted? What is this IMRC Motor, what is the main function?
View 8 Replies98 f150 4.2l imrc quits working after 30 secs or so. Valves are good,linkage is good, vacuum lines good, electric vacuum switch/valve on r/h side of intake good, power to that switch/valve is there, loosing ground from computer??? What tells the computer to operate these valves?
View 9 Replies2002 Ranger 2.3L, 5 spd, 108,000 miles
This has been from about 10,000 miles now. I have cleared the codes, sometimes it will go away for a day or two, but usually is back almost immediately. Finally last week I removed the solenoid and two vacuum lines hoping I would find a cracked hose like others have. No go there, but I replaced the vacuum lines anyway and dosed the vacuum ports on the solenoid with a little carb cleaner. Started truck up and revved it a few times, light stayed out. Next morning the check engine light was back on again.
Guess it must be in the actuator or the IMRC itself. Any success story about using some kind of cleaner to try to degunk this first (assuming it is stuck, that is...) without having to tear it apart?
I have the P1518 code for Intake Manifold Runner Control. I can not seem to find if have the actuator itself only the electronic control which, I take connects to the actuator. Is the electronic portion the only thing that needs to be changed and clean the actuator butterfly with the manifold off, or does the actuator need to be found and replaced?
View 3 RepliesIv got a 2000 passat 1.8t and the shift linkage bracket broke, so i got a new one but my problem is how do i get the linkage cable off the old one, and onto my new one. Is the cable supposed to be able to break into two parts.
View 2 RepliesHow quaint for these issues to turn up after the initial warranty period ends. Recently I've been having trouble with noises coming from the left wheel well. The worst noise is a grinding sound while steering to the left only. It sounds like two metal pieces rubbing together and it reverberates through the spring (or so it seems). Whilst driving, the noise changes.
I will hear a rattling coming from the left side as if something were lose; the sound is intermittent and occurs because of variations in the pavement. It is not a constant sound. Whilst going over speed bumps at low speed the sound is a creaking noise that sounds remarkably like creaky springs; oh and the rattle noise is produced at the initial "impact" with the speed bump as well, but only once.
Finally, it seems that it is important to note that I cannot reproduce ANY of these sounds when it is raining! I drove around for 2 hours attempting to reproduce the noises. I even went into an empty lot and did some mock "cone weaves" to see if I could torture the bloody car into cooperation! To no avail.
I have a 2008 Gen II with an increasingly noisy front wiper linkage. It squeaks rather loudly. I know the noise is not the wiper blades on the glass because I've lifted the wiper blades, turned on the wipers, and get exactly the same noise. Any way to lubricate the linkage?
View 3 RepliesI noticed that my links for my intake manifold motors were broken i went to the dealer they didn't just sell the link they wanted 450.00 dollars for each one .
View 2 RepliesMy daily driver is a Ford pickup. But we recently acquired a 2003 Excursion.
-5.4L V8
-3.73 rear end
-2WD
It is an Eddie Bauer, and despite its age and 150k miles, it is in really nice shape. It runs and shifts very smoothly. So far, we've replaced the rear glass hydraulics, put 4 new tires and a wheel alignment on it, replaced one brake line from the front to the rear, replaced a cracked rim and one missing wheel hub cap. The driver's seat base cushion leather is ripped, but I procured a replacement leather seat cushion cover which is brand new and a perfect match to the original two-tone leather.
Otherwise, the radio works fine, A/C front and rear is ice cold. The shifter linkage is very stiff and not accurate. I'm guessing the switch selector on the outside of the transmission is failing?
The driver's side power window does not work, and the reverse sensing system has only worked once. The switch always says "off" and if you push it, it won't stay in the "on" setting.
But anyway, here it is .....
Looking for a pic or diagram or able to explain it well, of how the valve body engages the shift linkage/kickdown on a c6. I need a pic of the actual valve body itself and how it engages INSIDE the pan NOT externally.
View 14 RepliesMy 2012 F250 has begun making a noise. The noise is coming from somewhere in the linkage (drivetrain). It sounds like new knobby tires on a paved road but not constant more like (rrrr-rrrr-rrrr). The frequency of the noise increases the faster the vehicle moves. It does not make the sound while revving the engine in park and the noise does not change between dirt road of paved road, so I'm pretty sure it's not the tires or the engine. Could it be something like the tachometer needing lubricant??? Its kind of loud.
View 12 RepliesSo I just got 42dd shifter bushings and im having some issues!
Installation was no problem but once you complete the install you are supposed to re-adjust the linkage. First you have to lock the shifter in place, both in the cabin and in the engine bay (as shown in this Diesel Geek video: [URL] .... )
The only trouble I'm having is that i cannot locate the locking pin as shown in this integrated engineering picture: [URL] .....
While looking in the engine compartment, I noticed that the steering linkage behind the engine where it comes out of the firewall and connects to the steering box is rusting... Bad. The car is only a year old, but the linkage looks like it's 10 years old. Should I be concerned?
View 5 RepliesHaving trouble with shifter not going into park. The linkage is sloppy. Is there a bushing kit or something to tighten up the linkage?
View 3 RepliesMy truck has developed a bad habit when it is cold (as in outside air below freezing and engine cold): The accelerator pump arm rubs against the throttle arm hard enough to bind the throttle partially open (NEVER a good situation!). I've removed the carb and verified that everything "looks" right:
1) The throttle shaft is in the right location and doesn't have any side to side movement.
2) The accelerator pump arm pivot is straight
3) The accelerator pump arm is straight (It's design makes it a bit difficult to just "bend" the arm side to side and I shouldn't have to do that anyway...)
4) The throttle arm is straight
After taking the arm off and straightening it out (repairing my attempts at a "field" repair...), verifying the linkage and then reinstalling and adjusting the AP, everything was working perfectly on the bench (kitchen table...), so I went ahead and reinstalled the carb (always fun at 10:30pm when it is 7F outside and the freaking wind is blowing at 30mph!).
By the time I got everything bolted down and hooked back up, the carb had cooled off a LOT, and the linkage was once more binding. I have no doubt that if I bring it in and let it warm back up, it will work perfectly.
So, what could be the problem? Do I just need to say the heck with it and hit the side of that lever with a file to get the cold clearance it just doesn't have? I can't imagine that this is a common problem with Holley 4160 carbs...
I am searching for any kind of adjustment that might enable me to force the clutch level to the positive stop. It stands off about an 1/8" to 3/16" and I think is the reason I am not getting engagement in first gear, it slips heavily but fine in all other gears. The key way on the the lever prevents me from moving it a notch or two if I thought I could and don't know if that's even the answer . I can't figure out what is preventing it from returning fully on its own I can push it by and and a little fluid will squirt from the reservoir. Ive replaced the slave cylinder and bled it.
Is there any adjustment under the dash? This is a 2001 elantra that I just put a 2000 trans 5 speed.
My original plan was to pull the parts from the 2000 and replace in the 2001. I had lost 1st and 5th totally and found a 2000 that went right in with some minor mtr mnt mods. It shifts just fine except for this 1st gear thing. I saw a video and am having second thought about that move. I dont really want to pull the trans out again.
1st gear just keep slipping. new clutch kit installed when I swapped them out. It feels like a linkage thing somewhat but I cant find adjust ment to tryout.
I just put on headers and after running into the infamous rattle sound I found an additional issue. The steering linkage seems to be rubbing or binding on right hand turns. Any normal 90 degree right hand turn will prevent me from taking the wheel beyond a certain point. I have had to make wide swooping turns. I feel the steering wheel stop further progress turning to the right and it gets a heavy rattle feel in the steering wheel.
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