Windstar :: 2008 Focus - Sparking Light Flash When Lock / Unlock The Car With Key Fob
Sep 20, 2015
I had a 2008 focus that had the parking lights flash when you lock and unlock the car with the key fob just wondering if the windstar does the same and if so how do you enable it as if you push the lock button 2 times the horn beeps and that is the only time i know the van recognizes the lock command i know that dodge's you push the lock button for 4 seconds but not more that 10 seconds then push the panic button but i didn't see anything in the manual unless i totally missed it.
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
I had the service vehicle soon light come on the other day and it took out the gauge back lights, fog lights, and tail lights. Also, when I used to lock and unlock the car with the remote the exterior lights would flash, now they don't. I check all headlights and tail lights and none of them are burnt out.
View 11 Replies
On my previous vehicle (2005 Avalanche), when I unlocked the doors, the tail lights and parking lights flashed to let me know that the signal was received and the doors were unlocked. I noticed that the Excursion doesn't do that. The lights flash on "lock" but not on "unlock". It's a nice feature to have, especially at night.
View 14 Replies
My 2004 6.0 used to beep and flash the lights when I lock and unlock with the remote key fob, but has stopped doing it for some reason. Need the sequence required to re-program that feature.
View 1 Replies
Let me start by saying the car is the 2002 ford focus and has a remote starter keyless entry and alarm that has been in stalled years ago so the one day I'm trying to go inside my car and the unlock button on the key fob doesn't work so I put the key in the door and open it all the doors unlock.
I ignored it when I'm leaving the car I lock it with the key fob it chrips then my son rushes outside and opens the door. That's when I noticed the door didn't lock then I try the door switch to lock and unlock the doors but nothing happens I tried the passenger switch nothing
Symptoms : Both driver and passenger door lock switches are not working If I hit the unlock button twice on the key fob all the doors unlock...
View 2 Replies
Every once in awhile when I'm on the freeway, the hazard lights will flash and the doors will lock and unlock for about 3 seconds then stop.
The car is running normally other than this, except that the doors have stopped locking with the fob or the key itself. It is a 2001 2.0L L4 SOHC 8V.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2008 Camry Hybrid with about 125k miles. A few thousand miles ago the door locks have been displaying portions of the following issues and then finally ended up with all these issues described:
Driver door lock: (OK)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
- Power door lock switch locks and unlocks door
Front passenger door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on this door or driver door, does NOT lock/unlock door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear right door lock: (Intermittent Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger doors intermittently fail to lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear left door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, does NOT open the door
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger door does NOT lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
What specific parts would need to be replaced?
View 2 Replies
I have a 2004 Ford Focus that has always run like a champ; (71,000) miles. Two years ago it started having some really strange "issues." The car's dash light for the ABS would start to flash off and on, accompanied by a clicking sound whenever it flashed. The brakes are always fine. Next, though, the car starts kicking and "bucking" as though it wanted to die. Whenever I pulled off the road, turned off the car and turned it back on, everything was fine. This went on for weeks but it was sporadic in nature; and naturally it didn't do anything for my mechanic even when I left it there.
I finally took it to the Ford dealer who charged me $800 for a new alternator belt, but it came with no guarantee - they said they frankly didn't know whether it would work or not. Turns out it did, for a couple of years; but it has just now started doing it again. I can find nothing that I'm doing or not doing determines whether this happens or not. Now I've got the same scarey problem all over again, and every couple of years for a new alternator belt, I might as well give it up and sell. I'm getting so tired of hearing "I don't know what's wrong". Oh, by the way, the "check engine" light never goes on.
View 12 Replies
My boyfriend has a 2008 Kia Spectra that appears to have developed a mind of its own! The doors randomly lock and unlock at very odd times - usually when we are trying to enter the vehicle. We click the key fob "unlock" and the car unlocks and then immediately locks again. It has become a game of "how fast can we get the doors open"! Sometimes it goes into what we call "fits" and will click click click click - open/close open/close, etc. This will go on for nearly 10 to 15 seconds as we just sit in the car. He has taken it to the dealership on two different occasions, but OF COURSE, it never does any of the things I've just mentioned! I think the dealership thinks he is crazy. What could be causing this weird "ghost"???
View 6 Replies
The door lock light will flash constantly when are locked, it don't matter how i lock the doors e.g., key fob, front doors or rear door. i have verified that all doors are locked and the car beeps once when i lock the doors. how can i turn the door lock light off, permanently if need be.
View 2 Replies
While on a recent vacation, my sister-in-law, trying to do a good thing, washed my clothes but neglected to remove my FOB for my 2008 Prius. I returned home only to find that the FOB would not lock/unlock the doors.
I replaced the battery (the old one was reading only .03vDC) but still no remote lock/unlock.
How can you tell if the FOB is working since there is no "little red light" like I have seen mentioned by other owners
It looks as if the FOB should be watertight, is it? Any way to clean inside the FOB in case there is some corrosion? What should be my next step?
View 11 Replies
2008 Escape, while driving, the doors will lock/unlock themselves like crazy. Sometimes it's 20 times, others it's 100 times. Sometimes it won't happen for a day or two, sometimes it's every time I drive it. When the car is off, remote works fine, car stays locked. Where to start?
View 1 Replies
My windows does not all go down when I hold unlock on my fob and how can I change setting for the car not to unlock when putting in park and when opening the door manually all inside locks would open too. My 2011 didn't have a manual.
View 3 Replies
Remotes suddenly will not lock/unlock doors or open trunk.Background - guy left key in ignition in 'on' position overnight. Also thunderstorm with very near lightning strike during that time.Battery dead in am, though after jump start it was not necessary to reset radio, clock, etc.Neither remote works.Checked the door lock fuse - looks OK, but did not replace it as there were no spares in the spare slots.Where else to look for the problem?
View 2 Replies
Just bought an 06' f-150 about a month ago everything was in working order and now lone behold a problem. Not sure if it is significant or not but a problem is a problem none the less. To start the driver side door will no longer unlock either door, replaced the switch hoping/thinking it was just faulty but still no luck, tried to unlock and lock it from the passenger side to make sure that it isn't the actuators and confirmed that it is not the problem so I am left wondering what could it be? Was thinking maybe a relay? or a fuse? but Where the relay would be and it wouldn't make sense to me being a fuse for unlock and another separate fuse for lock.
Next battery died after a week of sitting, checked the battery and alternator to make sure that it wasn't those to blame for the problem and both were fine. I know that there is a after market security system on the truck and that is the suspect thus far to being the Drain I am Having, still yet to hook up a multi meter to see how big of a drain it is though. third is that the CD player does not turn on nor do the lights turn on once you shut the truck off and open the door, I have to manually turn the CD player off to keep it from draining the battery even more. Feel like I fell for a little trap buying from the dealership. trying to work something out with them but until I hear back I am still trying to make amends.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2012 Prius C II my question is why is that when I press the Fob key to Lock/Unlock I only get a flashing light. (Headlights) there is no sound at all. How do I activate it so it flashes and have sound?
View 4 Replies
The remote locks on my 2000 Jetta GLX have been working intermittently for almost a year. I had been using the manual key to lock/unlock until finally the manual lock alarm disarm also became intermittent and I found myself stuck at a truck rest stop at 1:30 a.m. with my alarm repeatedly howling into the night and no way to disarm it. I felt caught. I felt trapped. Like I was found guilty of a crime I had never committed. I knew then - I had work to do.
My research in the forums indicated that the door lock assembly was a common culprit - a gremlin, often leaving headaches as it's only calling card. I worked quick, pulling a driver's side door lock assembly out of 2003 at the local junkyard and replacing it no problem. To my surprise, although this DID fix the manual locking/unlocking/alarm disarming problem, it DID NOT fix the remote unlock problem. The culprit was still at large.
Business as usual with intermittent remote unlocking/locking/trunk-popping for weeks until my dash threw the "AIR BAG FAULT" light. I decided to question a local garage owner who's VAGCOM told me that it was caused by something on the driver's side door. He was busy, but it reset fine and I was on my way. I know now that I should have asked for the code then but I was caught in the beauty of a girl who only nails polish was the grease and dirt of the car she worked under. And about a mile down the road, the light came back on.
Now, the "AIR BAG FAULT" light is on as soon as I start the car. However, the time seems to vary slightly before the Jetta beeps and tells me in faded red letters "AIR BAG FAULT". Sometimes right when I leave my driveway, sometimes not before I drive a mile or two down the road. My remote unlock is still working intermittently.
I need both my airbag fault and the remote unlock fixed. I'm wondering if these two problems are related? Like maybe there's a loose connection that is causing the airbag sensor to short and it's beeping when it bumps out of place and maybe the intermittent remotes are being caused by slamming of my driver's side door too hard & it's losing a connection as well. I tried putting a little conductivity jelly in the female clip that goes to the window regulator motor because I heard that the airbag sensor is in there somewhere but it didn't make a difference.
View 5 Replies
I own a 2001 Honda CRV and have realized that I will never own another Honda because it has had many of the exact same problems that my old Accord did. Seems certain things just break on Hondas. However, unlike the last car, I have decided that doing the repairs myself would be a cheaper way to fix these minor problems. To the point: A few months ago, my driver's side door lock started acting up. (Note: I quit using the keyless entry a long time ago and simply use the key). At first, it randomly wouldn't lock/unlock along with the others. However, simply using the key or pushing/pulling on the lock knob did the trick. As time went on, the lock got more and more stubborn. Eventually, it took turning the key (hard) at the same time as pulling on the lever to unlock the door. Locking it still was not a problem. Now, even that does not work, and the only way to unlock it is to pull hard on the outside handle while pulling on the lock knob (this requires the window being down and is therefore impractical for any kind of daily use). Hence, I am resigned to climbing in the passenger door. After reading that Hondas usually have this problem and that it is usually the door lock actuator that is the problem, I purchased a new lock mechanism and actuator (I figured replacing the entire thing couldn't hurt...). So, I have replaced the entire mechanism within the door. However, the problem is still exactly the same. What else could this be?
View 6 Replies
My Chevy Venture 1998 power lock doors will unlock but won't lock. Checked fuse and is ok.
View 13 Replies
Recently, I've been having issues with my door locks. When exiting the car, and pressing the door lock on the outside handle, I would here the door lock solenoid fire once, then open, and the door would not lock. Same thing would happen when I used the FOB. The door would not lock. On occasion, I would get the door to lock, and stay locked by using the door lock inside the car when the door was open.
On the occasions when I did get the door locked, I then had issues unlocking. If I approached the drivers door to unlock the door, the car would just keep repeatedly beeping, and would not unlock the drivers door. But, the back door would unlock, so I could reach in, and open the drivers door from the back.
View 4 Replies
So, I got my explorer about 3 months ago and it has never locked, the door ajar light was always on and I fixed that by using some WD-40.
Now that the door light is off, the explorer beeps once when i lock it using the key fob but it doesn't actually lock. When I use the lock switch in the rear (by the spare wheel tools) it will lock and unlock. The driver's door lock switch won't lock or unlock, the passenger will unlock but won't lock.
Stock alarm system.
View 1 Replies
