Windstar :: 2003 - Rough Idle When Sitting At Stops?
Mar 14, 2016
It is idling very rough at times, not all the time, when sitting at stop lights/signs. Sometimes it will stall out. 3 times it has stalled in the middle of an intersection while turning. Scary as hell! I Have to stop the van on the side of the road, put it in park, turn it off, then start it again before I can go. This process is getting Old!
While sitting at a stop sign/light, it's like the engine surges up and down. Some surges get low enough that the van will just die. If I step on the gas or put the van in neutral it will quit for a minute. All of the lights in, on, outside of the van go bright/dim with every surge. The battery light will occasionally flash on and off during the surges, but not every time.
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2001 windstar rough idle at warm up, start drive the van with cold engine for about 3-4 ml s, come to a light, stop, van starts rough idling, if I don't put it in neutral and hit the gas it will die ... after that , no problem .
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Back after months...van has been checked by 2 ford dealer mechanics here in VA , nothing.
Now it's the opposite ...temp outside 90 or higher, drive it for 8 -10 ml, park and come back after 15 min. From shopping, try to start, won't idle, stalls every time I try , after 6-8 attempts, back to normal, all together 3 times, last time was so bad, had a real problem to make it back home, at every stop, it stalled.
Back to the shop ....they drove several times, no show ...it's fine, don't know what to do ????
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I have 2000 ford windstar with 3.8 engine. I have been reading up on the idle problems with these vans. However, most responses are in regard to the engine stalling and/or it trips a code. My does not do this. Sometimes the idle is rough and other times everything is smooth. I am thinking it may be an egr valve or dpfe valve.
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My windstar 3.8 engine has idle problems and engine light comes on at times. Code po305 (misfire #5). When I add sea-form to tank and drive awhile, the engine light goes out and the engine idle's normal. Is this an eva problem and what should I look for?
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This is a little odd. Over the last two years or so the van had developed a rough idle issue. When left to idle in Park or Neutral the roughness would usually lead to the engine stalling after a few minutes.This happened both in and out of gear but only when the engine was still cold, idle returned to normal once normal op temp had been reached. Cleaning the IAC got rid of the problem... sort of. Now it idles fine in Park or Neutral but when in gear and engine/tranny still cold it is still very rough.
When waiting at a traffic light with my foot on the brakes the van shudders as it tries to lurch forward, the shaking is very noticeable even to those outside the van. This has become so bad I shift it into Neutral every time I need to stop at a traffic light, and it instantly settles into steady smooth idle at 800 rpm. However once the engine is warm everything returns to normal. Another thing I noticed is that when in gear and cold the roughness only occurs with brakes applied. Feels like whenever the roughness in the engine occurs the transmission attempts to override the brakes, which causes the lurching.
While the problem only lasts 5 to 10 minutes until op temp is reached it is nevertheless very annoying and driving me nuts. My main concern is that it may eventually cause damage to the transmission to be tugged at and jerked around in such a way. I am running out of reasonable explanations as tho what may be causing this and have begun elaborating more esoteric theories. My latest one is that since this only happens when the brakes are applied then the tiny voltage required to activate the brake lights is somehow causing some other electric part to fail, and that the rough idle is somewhat related to this. Shows you just how desperate I'm getting.
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After all my attempts, I could not fix the rough idle. I have done the gaskets of the gaskets and bolts of the intake manifold (the engine light disappeared), I have changed the bushings of the manifold too (the one one the left side), I have changes the TPS sensor, I have cleaned the MAF sensor...
The rough idle is still there (and getting worse) and there is some smell of gasoline now. I suspect that I have to change sparks and cables, but I wanted to confirm first with you because the whole thing seems complicated as some of the plugs are buried very "conveniently". You could usually feel an ascending vibration while waiting at the traffic light. You can't feel it as much when in neutral, but it is still there.
I have noticed that on the right side of the Intake manifold (under the throttle) there is some sort of greasy substance that always looks wet. I suspect that it is burnt oil, but that think's been there since I bought the car, so I am not sure if it is related in any way.
I haven't changed the oil and air filter since last summer but I doubt that would be an issue. Additionally I realized that I put pure antifreeze when I need to use 50/50. Anyways, those things I will fix this summer anyways. All I want to fix now is the rough idle because these vibrations drive me nuts.
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When my Camry is in DRIVE and sitting at a red light for example, my car will shake. It feels like it idles rough. If I put it in neutral the shaking goes away... only when in drive.
I took it to Firestone who mentioned I had a dirty throttle body. So I get this cleaned and the shaking has significantly reduced. However after a few months I'm back at square one. Dirty throttle body and care is shaking again. (Yes air filter is clean)
I noticed two things that I think might be contributing... After 5,000 miles my oil is pretty black and very low. (Time for an oil change) When I swipe my finger on the exhaust pipe, its really black but no black smoke comes out. I don't see any oil leaks outside of the engine, its actually pretty clean.
So two questions, is the low oil and black exhaust pipe normal? Why would my throttle body keep getting dirty?
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I have a 1997 Explorer Sport 4.0 SOHC, 110,000 miles. When I start it in the morning or after sitting for a few hours, the idle is very rough. Most of the time it wont even stay running. My first thought was a vacuum leak. I found four leaks and repaired them, including the EGR valve control and the EGR solenoid. One stem on each was broken off. I bought these parts from the dealer and then tested the vacuum, which I now have vacuum pressure. The check engine light is on and doesnt read the "system evap emission control pressure sensor low" (vacuum leak) anymore, but it now reads "system too lean (bank 1) and system too lean (bank 2). I cleaned the IAC valve and have ran several bottles of injector cleaner through. My mechanic thinks it is the IAC, but when you disconnect the plug on it, the car will barely idle, so it must be working at least a little. I have seen suggestions for a fuel filter, which I am going to replace, but I am really lost here.
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My 2011 Hyundai Accent 1.6 runs fantastic and has since I purchased it three year's ago until two weeks ago when my domestic partners friend changed the spark plugs, oil, air filter and stuff so I could go on a short trip and back. About 200 miles into it I pulled into a rest stop and noticed it was rough before I put it in park. As soon as I put it in reverse it was running rough and sounded like it was going to die. Forty miles later the check engine light was on and it was running terrible. A parts store recommended different spark plugs. A nice man who was there overheard the conversation and offered to put them in for me since I know nothing about doing. He said he gapped the spark plugs at 0.40? When I started it it ran like a dream until about 75 miles later and it began doing it again but the light never came on. It is doing the same thing which is a rough idle when stopped but it smooths out when I put it in park.
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I have a 95 honda accord 2.2L, 135,000 miles. One day while sitting at a light the car started vibrating due to a rough idle problem. The idle speed is ok at about 750 rpm.
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I have problem with my 2006 Prius , idle shaking and when the engine stops its really rough.
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To start off I have replaced the MAF sensor in this car 3 times now, and have all new oxygen sensors and a new fuel pump. The most recent MAF sensor I have put in the vehichle was 2 months ago and I did it because The car would die while idling, however the mass air flow code did not show up on the cars diagnostic trouble codes. Yet this did solve the problem. The previous MAF sensor had been installed a year ago and failed on me, it was under warrantee. Now that I have installed this newest MAF sensor the car has been running fine until last month.
Since then It runs especially rough at idle and has a tendency to die when sitting for more than a minute in idle. This problem is on and off however, it can run fine one day and as soon as i start it up the next day the problem will reoccur. Now I am getting the DTC for the throttle position sensor, evaporative emission control valve, and throttle position sensor. And more recently, today the problem occurred again, the first time in a week, and now I am getting gray smoke out of the tailpipe. I would like to know if I should again, try to replace the MAF sensor, or if there is some other problem that the Sentra is prone to that I am unaware of.
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Truck (04 excursion, 2WD, early build 6.0, 160k) started missing and rough idle on way home from work after sitting all day in rain - parked. started fine in morning and drove to work with no trouble - it was raining over night too.
To get you up to speed. for a few weeks before had intermittent trouble starting. would fire up as normal, fast and loud, but then stall immediately (usually after sitting overnight). would start back up but with a little long on the key and some gas pedal action. only happen one out of ten or twenty starts and seemed to follow getting fuel in unknown locations while on a trip out of town. decided to change out fuel filters and drain separator. seemed to fix it for a week or so then it happened again two days before above event, while weather was dry. Not sure if related but only recent problem to speak of.
Back to current:
- no check engine light or codes (I have a scanner)
- stalled out close enough to home the night in question I rolled it into driveway and tried to start it while rolling in neutral - no start
- once parked in driveway also no start
- next evening wanted to get it into garage (to dry off) and it started but rough idle and missing. this was after 24 more hours sitting in rain.
- been in garage 24 more hours and this evening got it to run but same result (rough idle and hard start). tried to check connections (mainly FICM) and move wire loom around - still same.......
Where to check next, need some diagnostic...
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Noticed this to be a problem with our older 2011 Accent, now with the 2012 Accent.
The car has a rough idle usually in mornings, it seems like it is going to stall at stops, it also has a tough time accelerating.
The computer scan does not show there is anything wrong until the problem becomes worse.
This is what I have discovered through the 2011 Accent. Car will stall at stops. Very inconvenient in rush hour traffic. Until they replace the Crankshaft Point Censor, the problem would not go away.
I would insist on looking at this rather than replacing sparkplugs or having any other service performed if one is experiencing these same symptoms. The good thing is it is under warranty.
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I've been having trouble getting my 2001 toyotoa echo to start in the cold weather and STAY Idling. All I can do to keep the car going is hold my foot on the gas until it warms up, then it stays running, low idle, but running. It starts fine the rest of the day, but that first start in the morning doesn't take. The check engine light comes on and stays on, and the car seems to idle rough at stops.
At first the Mechanic I took it to (good guys) cleaned out my throttle body (physically and chemically) and this seemed to solve the problem for a couple weeks. I'm located in Toronto, Canada, and we're heading into cold weather and I just want a car that starts. It started up again recently and I'm now being told (on my second visit to the mechanic) that it's my throttle body/idle control and that this part needs to be replaced, to the tune of 627.00 + labour.
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I have an 03 Passat with about 70K miles on it. My daughter put rug in it this morning (about 7 gallons) and since then the check engine light came on and the car is running really rough at stops. While accelerating, it seems to be fine. It is also getting about 10 mpg less than normal. MIL codes: P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, and P0171. He said the P03xx codes were related to misfirings on each cylinder. The P0171 is a bank 1 failure (?). What do those codes really mean and could they be related to bad gas? Sent her off in my TDI JSW so she's not out on the highway if the Passat decides it doesn't want to go anymore.
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I have 97 F250 light duty equipped with factory rear air suspension. Truck has 180K miles. Both rear air bags were replaced about 100K miles ago under warranty (I didnt do it myself!). Both sensors and compressor are new within the last 18 months which I replaced myself. Recently, rear air bags have been deflating when truck is sitting idle. Compressor reinflates air bags as expected when struck is started but recently cannot maintain. Sprayed soapy water today on air bags and airlines and witnessed leak (due to air bubbles) at lower side of air bags on both sides. My conclusion is that air bags are culprit. Seems coincidence that both are leaking??
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I have a 2003, F250 SD, 5.0 with a weird problem no one can figure out. Now it doesn't matter what time of the year it is but after the truck sits a few days when I go to start it up it run roughs. Sometimes for a few seconds sometimes a few minutes then it "straightens" itself out. Recently it took almost a day to fix itself. No engine codes, no other symptoms.
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My 2003 ranger xlt 4.0 has a stalling problem. The engine light came on in aug and I had it coded at AutoZ and there was a code for the oxy sensor, changed that and didn't work so I took it back. In oct I had it coded and it said the air int temp sensor which i was informed was part of the mas airflow sensor, changed that the beginning of nov, got the computer to reset and it still didn't fix it.
Took that part back and had it coded again a few days later and several codes came up AutoZ code 1732 and the the OEM number to cross for them were: P2195 , P0300 , P0316 , P0174 , P0171 , P2197 . Reset the comp yesterday and as soon as the light came on had them code it again and it came up AutoZ code 1732 OEM # to cross P2195. I guess my next step will be to take it to the dealers to get diagnosed..
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I have a 2002 Ford Windstar. Just replaced a TPS, went to town was coming back home, and all of a sudden it started to spit and sputter while in gear. But, in neutral she runs alright. I use mid-grade gas. I put in two cans of Seafoam in the tank. Wrecker operator smelled the exhaust and told me the it was too rich. My question is and this sounds stupid, could the previous owner. Had never replaced the fuel filter or if they did replaced it, that it was installed backwards. I drove it almost 20 miles before it died. I figured that the fuel in the gas line emptied and it refuse to go. And since it only runs good without strain on the engine...
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